Dayton 100watt 10" subwoofer OUTPUT/QUANTITY vs Multimedia Set Subwoofer

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superlyduper

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In terms of quantity and quantity alone, how does the output/volume $125 Dayton 100watt 10" subwoofer compare to the sub of say, the Logitech Z-5500 (also 10" subwoofer) set or the Klipsch Promedia 5.1 Ultra?
 
superlyduper said:
In terms of quantity and quantity alone, how does the output/volume $125 Dayton 100watt 10" subwoofer compare to the sub of say, the Logitech Z-5500 (also 10" subwoofer) set or the Klipsch Promedia 5.1 Ultra?
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It's probably a little better in terms of max SPL. Do you have the dimensions of the subs? Size of the enclosure helps dictate max volume and extension.
 
BO(V)BZ said:
It's probably a little better in terms of max SPL. Do you have the dimensions of the subs? Size of the enclosure helps dictate max volume and extension.
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the dayton is

couldnt find the size of the multimedia subs

 [font=Verdana,Arial]Frequency response: 25-160 Hz
Exterior dimensions: 12-5/8" W x 16-7/8" H x 15-5/8" D
Net weight: 40 lbs.

coudlnt find the dimensions of the multimedia subs. i noticed the multimedia subs have more rms wattage..
[/font]
 
I own this sub. I have it paired with a custom Klipsch ProMedia 5.1 setup (see sig.)

Anyways, it's a freaking awesome sub. I love it. I bought it for like $130 shipped from PartsExpress.com. Great people. Great sub.

What specifically do you need to know about it?


Edit: The Klipsch subwoofer is more of a home theater subwoofer, when it gets loud it gets deep. The Dayton is a great match because the Klipsch to some people is quiet (this is because the Z-680 and Z-5500 are like car subwoofers). I personally like deep fine bass rather than booming bass. The Dayton can be adjusted to be one of the boomy subs people like, or it can be tuned to be a deep fine bass like I like. It's all gravy, baby. Get the Dayton, a bucket of chicken and a six pack of beer and call it a day.
 
when i first got my promedias, i also got an MTX 12" subwoofer with it (about $150 at circuit city). Although not as tight as the klipsch, it added some more bottom end and i was pretty happy with it. The only problem when you start doing stuff like that, you get the upgrade bug and then you'll want more more more :p
 
I don't know about this particular dayton speaker, but Dayton Loudspeakers generally makes some fine products and Parts Express is great. If there is anyone in the Dayton, Ohio area here, I highly recommend a trip to the store. It's on the first floor of the Mendelson's building, and Mendelson's is the best store on earth.
 
bjornb17 said:
i have a 400W 12" velodyne CHT-12 connected to my computer, it will whip up on most of you guys :)
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Great threadcrap asshole
 
kent said:
Great threadcrap asshole
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hey kent... i went back and read by post and realized it was kinda messed up of me. i edited it. sorry :)
 
I would "recommend" not getting anything more powerful than 10 inch dayton/partsexpress. that is.. if you don't want your harddrives to start developing bad sectors hehehe.

I should know I have a DIY 12 inch that can almost physically move the foundations of my house.
 
Well I just wanted to know about the volume of the bass compared to the volume of bass from a multimedia subwoofer, not quality of it because I have read enough about it. I want the volume for parties.

I'll be pairing them wit onix rocket elt lrs and vintage advent 420s radio/reciever. How should I set this up? I was thinking of doing

Chaintech AV710 Hi Sample - > 1/8 to 2x RCA - > Advent 420S aux-in. The advent drives the rockets, and only has a tape-out (2x rca), so I was thinking I should use that to connect to the subwoofer via with 2x rca plugs (more output that way).

Should I do it the other way around, so that the subwoofer is first to get the signal, and then it feeds the output to the advent which then drives the speakers?
 
depends on room size. for most rooms it will do OK, but if you want club sound in a large room (like a 40x80 basement [yes, I've been in one]), then you have no choice but pro speakers.

But for a normal living room, etc...that sub will do just fine for normal volumes, even in a party. For what it's worth, a 120w 8" yamaha sub, in a 11x14 room has enough bass to raise hairs on my head...it also hits down around 30hz...since hte Dayton has a larger woofer, expect it to hit harder and/or go a little bit deeper.
 
Gibzilla said:
I would "recommend" not getting anything more powerful than 10 inch dayton/partsexpress. that is.. if you don't want your harddrives to start developing bad sectors hehehe.

I should know I have a DIY 12 inch that can almost physically move the foundations of my house.
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actually its been proven that the sub magnets dont affect anything in a normal computer (although its not recommended to have them close to a laptop). the mechanisms inside a harddrive are highly magnetic and its alright :). i have a velodyne cht-12 right against my computer case and everything is gravy
 
I'm not talking about magnets for most subs these days have bucking magnets to negate the speaker magnets.
 
It's only useful up to 70% volume or so, which in my opinion is pretty damn loud. I keep it at 30%ish (on the back of the sub)

It'll rock a decent sized room, but in a small room (at that volume) you'll be able to tell where the bass is coming from. I don't like that
 
The Ultra sub puts out 110dB @ 30hz, which is pretty impressive and comparible to a Klipsch Referance RW-10.
 
Yes. The Ultra sub is very impressive. It has very little distortion until you jack it up. My only real problem out of the Ultra sub is sometimes it's "too quiet." I like bass, I don't like car audio bass (albeit I have an RF 351m amp and some 10's that sound great) but I like bass..

Hell, I figured if I already spent:

$250 - Klipsch Ultra 5.1 (that great Dell deal like 40% off or something haha)
$130 - Creative DDTS-100 (from newegg)
$250 - Generic 27" Flat SDTV
$70 - Misc (coaxial digital audio, S-Video cables, S-Video switch box, 14 awg speaker cable)

I could spend another $130 on the Dayton. I'll never sell my Dayton probably, because it was SOO cheap and sounds SOO good.
 
kent said:
Yes. The Ultra sub is very impressive. It has very little distortion until you jack it up. My only real problem out of the Ultra sub is sometimes it's "too quiet." I like bass, I don't like car audio bass (albeit I have an RF 351m amp and some 10's that sound great) but I like bass..

Hell, I figured if I already spent:

$250 - Klipsch Ultra 5.1 (that great Dell deal like 40% off or something haha)
$130 - Creative DDTS-100 (from newegg)
$250 - Generic 27" Flat SDTV
$70 - Misc (coaxial digital audio, S-Video cables, S-Video switch box, 14 awg speaker cable)

I could spend another $130 on the Dayton. I'll never sell my Dayton probably, because it was SOO cheap and sounds SOO good.
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Haha, that's how it goes in the audio world :) everytime i want to upgrade, i justify it by saying "i already spent this much money, so what is a coule hundred more" The only problem is that it can get out of hand, since it caused my to sell my klipsch system and instead i just went ahead and put together a home theater system on my computer.

but the klipsch are still the king of PC speakers IMO :)
 
So I just ordered the dayton. Couldnt authorize the address and had to email them the correct address on the cc bill. Can anybody answer this question?

superlyduper said:
Chaintech AV710 Hi Sample - > 1/8 to 2x RCA - > Advent 420S aux-in. The advent drives the rockets, and only has a tape-out (2x rca), so I was thinking I should use that to connect to the subwoofer via with 2x rca plugs (more output that way).

Should I do it the other way around, so that the subwoofer is first to get the signal, and then it feeds the output to the advent which then drives the speakers?
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or does it not matter?
 
bjornb17 said:
Haha, that's how it goes in the audio world :) everytime i want to upgrade, i justify it by saying "i already spent this much money, so what is a coule hundred more" The only problem is that it can get out of hand, since it caused my to sell my klipsch system and instead i just went ahead and put together a home theater system on my computer.

but the klipsch are still the king of PC speakers IMO :)
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Would you argue with me if I said I have the best sound for $1000 or less. Using computer speakers as HT speakers is a VERY cost effictive way to get GREAT sound on the cheap. There is much less room for profit in the computer speaker market, where as in HT a 5.1 system costing $500 was made for probably 40% of that.
 
i know that this has no relavence to this thread but i notice no one has mention the bose compaion 3 which is what i have and they rock my socks they impress me but im just curious as to why no one mentions bose any where?
 
kmikedunn said:
i know that this has no relavence to this thread but i notice no one has mention the bose compaion 3 which is what i have and they rock my socks they impress me but im just curious as to why no one mentions bose any where?
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sorry to dissapoint you but bose = suck
 
Because BOSE uses $20 drivers in their LifeStyle 5000 Acoustamass system that costs $2000.

Ever notice how BOSE never gives you the specs on their speakers, such as w/RMS or Hz?

BOSE doesn't sell subwoofers, they sell "bass cubes" or some shit.

Do a google search, then learn BOSE = Buy Other Speaker Equipment.
 
kent said:
Would you argue with me if I said I have the best sound for $1000 or less. Using computer speakers as HT speakers is a VERY cost effictive way to get GREAT sound on the cheap. There is much less room for profit in the computer speaker market, where as in HT a 5.1 system costing $500 was made for probably 40% of that.
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my.php

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before i got my velodyne:
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Yes i would argue that.

i have 2 of these as my front mains: http://image07.webshots.com/7/6/85/37/177368537fRqhLO_fs.jpg

as well as two of the 10" versions as my right and left surround, and 2 6.5" versions as my rear surrounds, on a harman kardon avr135 receiver
http://www.shopsunshine.com/images/AVR135.jpg

and a velodyne cht-12 sub.

here are the prices:
Velodyne CHT-12 $280 (list $499)
Harman Kardon AVR135 $200 (list $399)
2x MTX Montior 12 $200 (list $500/pair)
2x MTX Monitor 10 $200 (list $400/pair)
2x MTX Monitor 6 $40 (list $200/pair)
1x MTX Monitor 6C $60 (list $130)
----------------------------------------------------
Grand total = $980.... it helps to shop around
:D
 
kent said:
Would you argue with me if I said I have the best sound for $1000 or less. Using computer speakers as HT speakers is a VERY cost effictive way to get GREAT sound on the cheap. There is much less room for profit in the computer speaker market, where as in HT a 5.1 system costing $500 was made for probably 40% of that.
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Thats a pretty braggart exaggeration...

Not sure if you were referring to your own setuponly your sub and rear speakers are computer speakers. That said, I'd rather find the cheap 6.1 reciever at thrift shop or the like ($<100), entry level bookshelves (easiest-to-find option are 3 pairs athena b1, $450?) all around, a dayton 100watt sub or two (125 or 250), and appropriate cables ($25). Its a reasonable setup, its around $850 and would sound pretty good. Personally, I would pick that over your setup.

I think high profit margins you are thinking about are either the 5.1 dreamtheater in a box setups you find at circuitcity or the exotic audiophile products.


Anyway...
superlyduper said:
I'll be pairing them wit onix rocket elt lrs and vintage advent 420s radio/reciever. How should I set this up? I was thinking of doing

Chaintech AV710 Hi Sample - > 1/8 to 2x RCA - > Advent 420S aux-in. The advent drives the rockets, and only has a tape-out (L/R rca), so I was thinking I should use that to connect to the subwoofer via with L/R rca plugs (more output that way).

Should I do it the other way around, so that the subwoofer is first to get the signal, and then it feeds the output to the advent which then drives the speakers?
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anyone?
 
Super,

That should work out just fine. I don't see that there'd be any problems with that setup.

I also agree about using PC speakers for HT...they just don't cut it compared to real speakers.
 
BO(V)BZ said:
Super,

That should work out just fine. I don't see that there'd be any problems with that setup.

I also agree about using PC speakers for HT...they just don't cut it compared to real speakers.
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haha, true true. you have a jumbo sub dont you BOMBZ? i remember you posting in the 'showoff your sub' thread i started, i cant remember if it was you that had the huge one :)
 
Bjorn,

I've got an SVS PB12-Plus/2, which I'd consider pretty jumbo. Thing's about 6 ft^3, dual 12" drivers, 900W of amp, in a big ugly black box.

You are probably thinking about the guy who posted some big washing-machine sized box though. My sub is probably close to that in size, and I'd guess the performance would be at least similar if not better.
 
BO(V)BZ said:
Bjorn,

I've got an SVS PB12-Plus/2, which I'd consider pretty jumbo. Thing's about 6 ft^3, dual 12" drivers, 900W of amp, in a big ugly black box.

You are probably thinking about the guy who posted some big washing-machine sized box though. My sub is probably close to that in size, and I'd guess the performance would be at least similar if not better.
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yeah, those PB12-plus/2 are monsters :) and i know SVS quality is great :D
 
Fuck SVS, get Hsu , loud fine, do you wanna listen to diesel engine roar all day?

Get tuneful bass, Get hsu. No he doesn't pay me and I don't work for hsu besides I went DIY but I've heard both.
 
SVS makes fine tuneful subs. However, even the best subs can sund pretty underwhelming when poorly integrated/calibrated to thier space. It takes come careful work with a SPL meter and sine sweeps to get ANY subwoofer to sound its best in a room. Below 80Htz, there's lots of room interactions that can make even a fine sub sound boomy and bloated at certain freqs.

Read about it in this subwoofer setup guide.

http://forum.av123.com/showthread.php?s=&threadid=3418
 
Until he provides more details about equipment, calibration, etc., he's just an ignorant troll. Rational people write rational arguments.
 
Just curious...

Why did you DIY? If you are concerned about having the best quality [not quantity, because this is really where DIY excels, as I'm sure you know] do you think that you personally can build a sub that's better than a major commercial entity like Hsu?

Honestly, at the price that these subs are, I think that both are relatively similar. While the Hsu might have better GD or less ringing, or whatever, the SVS might hit deeper and harder. All the people that I know who have spent serious time with these subs note that both are very similar in terms of SQ and extension. In now way is there one that simply kills the other, it all depends on what you value most.
 
I went DIY because incidently at the time i was taking weekend woodworking class at local community college.

Got a good deal on overstocked drivers from TC sounds(same people that make drivers for SVS). MDFs were cheap. Free usage of equipment and glue. And volla DIY sub.

I didn't enjoy woodworking though, all that dust flying around and back breaking manual work... It's a labor of love and I have no love for wood working.

If i had to do it over again. I would've just gotten Hsu vtf2 mk3 and be done with it. That thing is good for most moderately sized rooms. Not to mention relatively cheap.
 
You can still go DIY and go for quality.. It's all dependant on if you know how to choose your components and if you're good at building cabinetry. If your cabinets are crap and your speakers are awesome it's gonna = crap. This is where many people mess up when going DIY. I have seen so many times people build subwoofer enclosures only to have them too small, too big or rattle like crazy. I would say if you have the tools and are inclined to do a good job.. go for it. Just don't be half ass. You can probably do better than 90% of the prebuilt subs if you choose your components right. It doesn't have to be expensive either.

here is a tutorial I created if you are thinking about it.

http://www.thunderpimp.com/subwoofer/page.html
 
Port pacement doesn't matter much, since the frequencies that the port are boosting are for the most part incredibly hard to locate.

It's all about how you place the sub in the room...some subs work best near a corner, some work better in the middle of a long wall with nothing around it (my Yammie is that way, at least as far as mating with my mains is concerned).

Basically nobody can tell you the best place to put a sub, or the best tuning, it's all dependant on the room it's in, and what other speakers/wall treatments/etc are in there.


...on that note I need to buy some acoustic curtains...god I need more money :(
 
I just suck so bad at sewing that it's cheaper to buy it....trust me, I failed home Ec in high school over sewing...I tended to get a better hem on my thumb than on the t-shirt I was trying to make :(
 
mustang_steve said:
It's all about how you place the sub in the room...some subs work best near a corner, some work better in the middle of a long wall with nothing around it (my Yammie is that way, at least as far as mating with my mains is concerned).
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I agree with you 100%

I have an Infinity Entra II 10" sub, and it sounds weak when not in a corner, but in a corner it sounds totally terrific. On the other hand, my velodyne CHT-12 sounds terrible in a corner, and incredibly muddy. the 12" MTX subwoofer sounded best on the left side of my room, so it all depends heavily on the room placement for a particular sub
 
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