ZOTAC GeForce 9300-ITX WiFi

Danylu said:
Hi guys, found this place on google and seeing that there wasn't a similar thread on the other two forums that I am a part of, I decided to join [H] :)

A few questions;

1. Would I be able to hit 400x9 with my Q6600 on this board with the onboard graphics turned off?

2. With onboard graphics off, would I be able to utilise the mobo's DVI port?

Thanks!
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1. onboard graphics has nothing to do with OCing your CPU

2.No, you just turned it off
 
ccgenerals said:
1. onboard graphics has nothing to do with OCing your CPU

2.No, you just turned it off
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It was mentioned many pages back that turning the onboard graphics off meant less heat and more overhead for OCing, was wondering if anyone had noticed this :)
 
Don't know about #1, but definitely no for #2. What do you think runs the DVI port on the motherboard?
 
I think it DOES affect OC'ing, more power draw and more heat of course. but even with mGPU on I'm running 1600Mhz FSB so my e8400 is at 3.6Ghz.

But yours is a Quad so more power required you may not be able to get away with it.

Mine is unstable at 3.6GHz when using the onboard GPU, I use a discrete card and left the mGPU on just for physx (actually it's too slow to handle most Physx) and MCP temp monitoring. May need some more voltage to make it stable.
 
Man, they revisioning this board to death. I have waited so long for I-E revision to came in EU, now there is K-E... DDR3 makes it very tempting as prices are even lower and its more energy efficent for 24/7.. grrr it makes mad, as I have everything prepared for my little server except board
 
I did just receive my G-E board too...

Only thing I'm annoyed about is the LED on it... I had my setup completely silent/no LED's and then they stuck one directly on the board... it's hard to notice from across the room and only shows up through the vents of my case, but still ;)
Also the wake-from USB works with an IR receiver which is perfect for HTPC... press the sleep button on my remote, it goes to sleep... press it again and it wakes up within a few seconds. :D

Also I RMA'd 2 D-E boards that went bad, and I was surprised at how quick they responded.... I shipped them Monday, they received them Wednesday, and they shipped 2 boxes to me Friday... which I'll be receiving this Wednesday.

I heard some bad stories about Zotac support but so far I've been quite pleased... fastest RMA I've had that wasn't automated (like Seagate / WD for HDD's)
 
Danylu said:
It was mentioned many pages back that turning the onboard graphics off meant less heat and more overhead for OCing, was wondering if anyone had noticed this :)
Click to expand...

Didn't see it, but if you're going to OC to 3.6GHz with a Q6600, you should probably look into using an after market HSF. Whatever heat the on board GPU is putting out will be small compared to your CPU
 
ccgenerals said:
Didn't see it, but if you're going to OC to 3.6GHz with a Q6600, you should probably look into using an after market HSF. Whatever heat the on board GPU is putting out will be small compared to your CPU
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I'm going with a H50, so CPU heat should be handled. Should I look into an aftermarket mobo chipset heatsink?

The heat problem suggested that the GPU heat meant less cooling for the NB.
 
The newest revision (not out yet) will support DDR3. Im just before buying I-E revision, but seeing the K-E with DDR3 got me thinking. How much of real world difference will I noticed with 4GB of DDR2 vs 4GB of DDR3 with stock e8400 (might OC a bit on stock voltage)..Computer will serve as all a round machine, torreting, browsing, remuxing video files, encoding audio files, slight gaming, photoshop, etc...
 
Ok, after reading a bit on the net it seams there is no real benefit at all with C2D/C2Q CPUs paired with DDR3
 
Might as well get the board w/ DDR3 in case you switch to LGA1156 later on, then you can reuse the ram instead of trying to find other uses for it/sell it.
 
Nah, I have the i7 with ddr3 already, this will be mine 2nd computer for 24/7 running and using it for all stuff that I mentioned + I have been wating from D-E revision till now, cant wait another 2-3 months more for K-E
 
I just got Zotac G-E with a e5200. Whenever I change fsb and reboot my Zotac board doesn't want to boot up. I have to power off and on many times before it lets it through and boots properly randomly lets me in out of so many times.
Also when I reset my bios and I'm in the setting changing stuff the pc just shuts down randomly I have to load optimized setting so it doesn't do it as often.
I tried ntune which doesn't work with ati card installed and it doesn't work when I don't have a ati card. Can't find any other program that work like setfsb, clockgen, etc.

Running stable at 3.9ghz wtih my 4890 radeon.

Update found that intel stock heatsink wire clip was pushing the ion chipset heatsink off to the side. Ion was doing 71-80*c now its doing 40*c. Still not booting properly.
 
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Depends on the case.

For the SG05, either the Corsair H5O (holes drilled lower or fan cable tied lower) or the choice of Big Shuriken, AXP-140 or GeminII on air.
 
Danylu said:
I'm going with a H50, so CPU heat should be handled. Should I look into an aftermarket mobo chipset heatsink?

The heat problem suggested that the GPU heat meant less cooling for the NB.
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I wouldn't bother. A better/cheaper solution would be to increase the airflow.
 
I wouldn't try running a Q6600 on this board at 400 MHz FSB. You will probably fry the board with the power draw. (someone fried a board OCing the same CPU) You should get a Q9650 or Q9550.
With my Q9650 and H50 the max I can get with the IGPU on is 366.6 MHz FSB.
Later on I'll try with the IGPU off. It probably won't help that much though.
 
There is not a reson for it not to work, PCI express is PCI express after all
 
I bought this motherboards last week and have installed the drivers from the Zotac website.

In my optional windows updates are the following windows updates, what are they, should i install them or are they old drivers which i do not need?


NVIDIA Corporation - Audio - NVIDIA High Definition Audio (428 KB Published 23/09/09)

NVidia - Display - NVIDIA GeForce 9300 / nForce 730i (108.0 MB Published 11/11/09)
 
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Does the GPU in this motherboard (ZOTAC GeForce 9300-ITX WiFi ) runs Hot? I have the ZOTAC GF9300-I-E wich I think is the same just with some fix and an overclocked gpu but it runs 80c so hot that it turns the pc off so I may have to send back this mobo and I need to see the one I will be getting now.

here is the thread for my new motherboard in case anyone wants to help me out and see the system specs.
 
perrosky said:
Does the GPU in this motherboard (ZOTAC GeForce 9300-ITX WiFi ) runs Hot? I have the ZOTAC GF9300-I-E wich I think is the same just with some fix and an overclocked gpu but it runs 80c so hot that it turns the pc off so I may have to send back this mobo and I need to see the one I will be getting now.

here is the thread for my new motherboard in case anyone wants to help me out and see the system specs.
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It shouldn't run that hot, so you may want to check that the CPU heatsink hasn't shifted the position of the GPU heatsink. It might be a good idea to remove the GPS heatsink and clean it, then reapply some Arctic Silver or something. On my G-E board, the GPU was initially running at 65 degs. and it kept shutting down. That dropped down to about 43 degs. after I cleaned/reseated it.
 
ajira99 said:
It shouldn't run that hot, so you may want to check that the CPU heatsink hasn't shifted the position of the GPU heatsink. It might be a good idea to remove the GPS heatsink and clean it, then reapply some Arctic Silver or something. On my G-E board, the GPU was initially running at 65 degs. and it kept shutting down. That dropped down to about 43 degs. after I cleaned/reseated it.
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how hard is to take the gpu heatsink apart is? can I really put artic silver 5 in the gpu heatsink?

ps. I think the heat transfer is fine because I can kind of feel the heatsink hot.
 
perrosky said:
how hard is to take the gpu heatsink apart is? can I really put artic silver 5 in the gpu heatsink?
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It shouldn't be too hard, though I must tell you I have never managed to easily remove a heatsink with pins, only clipped ones.

As for AS5, I can't think of any reason why you can't use it as TIM between the NB and the heatsink... Unless the heatsink lacks both clips and pins, of course: in that case, you need thermal adesive, not just regular TIM.

perrosky said:
I think the heat transfer is fine because I can kind of feel the heatsink hot.
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That's actually a sign something might not be too good. The 945G chipset, for instance, is known to run very hot, especially on Atom-based motherboards. When the NB fan fails on my D945GCLF, the heatsink gets rather hot to the touch (to the point of being uncomfortable to keep the fingers on it) in a short time.

At any rate, I find it odd the faster board uses a paint-coated heatsink, which is admittedly nicer to the eye, but that (from the little I've learned about heat transfer) has a harder time releasing heat to the air...

Cheers.

Miguel
 
__Miguel_ said:
It shouldn't be too hard, though I must tell you I have never managed to easily remove a heatsink with pins, only clipped ones.

As for AS5, I can't think of any reason why you can't use it as TIM between the NB and the heatsink... Unless the heatsink lacks both clips and pins, of course: in that case, you need thermal adesive, not just regular TIM.


That's actually a sign something might not be too good. The 945G chipset, for instance, is known to run very hot, especially on Atom-based motherboards. When the NB fan fails on my D945GCLF, the heatsink gets rather hot to the touch (to the point of being uncomfortable to keep the fingers on it) in a short time.

At any rate, I find it odd the faster board uses a paint-coated heatsink, which is admittedly nicer to the eye, but that (from the little I've learned about heat transfer) has a harder time releasing heat to the air...

Cheers.

Miguel
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Thanks for your input I'm trying another aproach to solve the problem and I will have to take the mobo out I will take a look to see how dificult is take the GPU heatsink out if is easy I will clean it an put some AS5 on it.

by the way when I put my hand in the heatsync I can feel it hot but not that make me unconfortable.
 
NP, glad to be able to help.

Don't forget AS5 needs some curing time, and some heat cycles, to achieve maximum cooling efficiency. It should be very good to begin with, but don't feel weird if NB temps drop up to 5ºC over time.

Cheers.

Miguel
 
Ok, I have a weird issue with this board (not the latest revision), one that I didn't have before. I had this board for a while, and then sold it to my brother. He couldn't assemble his full system for several months, until just now. When I had it, the board worked fine with both internal and external GPU.

Now however, there are... issues with the internal GPU. If the board doesn't have an external GPU plugged it, it won't boot up. As in, it does power up, but there's no HD activity or anything to indicate it does anything beyond powering up. No graphics output obviously. But! If I plug in an external GPU, it boots up the OS normally and gives video output, even from the internal GPU.

I'm really pretty much stumped as far as figuring out a reason for this. Tried resetting BIOS etc, without any luck. Makes no sense. Why on earth would the board suddenly require an external GPU to boot up?! Anyone have any idea what to try?
 
IsLNdbOi said:
Instead of AS5, use Arctic Cooling MX2. No curing time and works better than AS5.
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Actually, I do use the Arctic Cooling MX2 in my builds, but I figured that most people are still using AS5. The MX2 is easier to apply and clean up, though.

@perrosky: It's very easy to remove the GPU heatsink. Just pinch together the flanges on each pin (from the solder side of the motherboard) and pull up on the head of the pin. You shouldn't have any difficulty in cleaning the TIM from the heatsink or the GPU. MX2 isn't electrically conductive, anyway.

Also, check to make sure that the fan wire clip (if you're using the Intel heatsink) isn't lodged up against the GPU heatsink. This has caused problems for people in the past.
 
Have you reset the CMOS / BIOS ? or Checked the settings regarding the internal/external GPU.
 
If you reset the BIOS, did you load the Optimized Defaults and then clear the CMOS? If not, try that and reboot between each operation. Also, like Blazestorm said, you have to enable the onboard GPU in the Advanced Options, and set the initial display in PnP/PCI Configuration.
 
perrosky said:
Does the GPU in this motherboard (ZOTAC GeForce 9300-ITX WiFi ) runs Hot? I have the ZOTAC GF9300-I-E wich I think is the same just with some fix and an overclocked gpu but it runs 80c so hot that it turns the pc off so I may have to send back this mobo and I need to see the one I will be getting now.
Click to expand...

The GPU ran very hot on my GF9300-G-E -- so much so that the overheat protection was forcing the PC to shut down. I had to remove the GPU heatsink, scrape off the stock thermal goop, and replace it with a thin layer of Arctic Silver Ceramique (it's what I had available at the time). GPU temps dropped immediately by about 15C.

I think the problem may actually have been that there was too much thermal goop on there, so it was impeding heat transfer instead of helping it. Scraping off a bit of it may have been sufficient.
 
skriefal said:
The GPU ran very hot on my GF9300-G-E -- so much so that the overheat protection was forcing the PC to shut down. I had to remove the GPU heatsink, scrape off the stock thermal goop, and replace it with a thin layer of Arctic Silver Ceramique (it's what I had available at the time). GPU temps dropped immediately by about 15C.

I think the problem may actually have been that there was too much thermal goop on there, so it was impeding heat transfer instead of helping it. Scraping off a bit of it may have been sufficient.
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Thanks for letting me know this. I will do that when my parts arrive next week.
 
As I stated before, I tried resetting BIOS and also the settings were irrelevant since resetting BIOS puts it to factory default which obviously should work.

However, turns out it might've been just a bad RAM stick. How it went bad, who knows. But it'd explain it to some degree, since if the internal GPU is trying to use faulty RAM, chances are it won't work correctly and might prevent the computer from fully booting even when it does boot with external GPU.
 
Just an update to my GPU Heat problem lastnight I took the heatsink out there was a little mess of thermalcompound there, I clean that up and put some artic silver 5 (all I have) and now the temp drop to 65c idle and goes up to 71c while watching a blue-ray.

The temps still High but at least now the pc don't restart, since the temp stays in the 70c to 78c. I hope I can get them lower with the 40mm fan I plan to put ontop of the GPU heatsink.
 
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