X99 on mITX: ASRock X99E-itx/ac

fs454 said:
The one you linked is correct. I have one too but realized that the stock Broadcom/Azurewave is compatible with OS X and the 7260 isn't. I haven't had any issues with the stocker just yet but I have both in case it goes nuts.
Click to expand...

Thanks. I actually did order the wrong one then found that link and figured that was the right one. I called Newegg 20 minutes after I ordered but it was too late and it ended up shipping out today. Glad I'm a premier member so it'll be free return shipping.

I'm actually surprised at how Asrock can include such a crappy wifi card when the rest of the board seems so solid. I overclocked my 5820k to 4.5GHz stable with 1.25v so it seems that I got a decent overclocker. This board is actually easier to overclock than my old Asus ROG Impact VI.
 
For me the Broadcom card was working perfectly fine out of the box on a fresh Windows 10 install, no additional drivers required. It has since stopped working entirely though, with our without the Win 8 drivers from ASRock's website. I've emailed ASRock support about it, but haven't heard back yet. Will post here if I do get anything useful from them.

jb1, PM me your email address; I'm unable to reply to your PM for some reason.
 
Hi everybody. I'm trying to install an NH-C14 cooler on this board, and have run into a small issue. I'm having trouble removing the spring-loaded screws from the included Dynatron cooler and attaching them to the C14.

I ordered the narrow-ILM adapter kit, and was hoping to use the Dynatron screws to attach the C14 to the motherboard as csd and Epos7 did, but I cannot figure out how to first remove the screws from the Dynatron brackets. This is probably a very elementary issue, but I cannot figure out how to do it myself, and Googling did not help me. Could anyone provide me some advice? If I could just get these screws off, the rest of the installation should go smoothly.

The screw seems to be held in place by a thin nut on the underside of the bracket, but I cannot for the life of me get that nut off.

bNkN6aN.jpg
 
It's an e-clip. They make removal tools but usually you can take a pair of pliers and pull them off the screw.
 
^ Yep, they're eclips. I just use something flat and push on the "open" side, and just be careful not to let the fly off;)
 
Thanks, csd and Aibophobia! I pried the e-clips off with all of my might from the open side. Now onto the C14!
 
DfknG said:
Match made in heaven :)
oeuAe2j.jpg


7Cfi5h0.jpg
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Looking good!

Is there any chance you could measure from motherboard pcb to the top of the waterblock? Bitspower's site says it 49mm thick, I don't have a lot of room between the motherboard and psu, I'm afraid it may not fit if I order one.
 
eutholevonik said:
Looking good!

Is there any chance you could measure from motherboard pcb to the top of the waterblock? Bitspower's site says it 49mm thick, I don't have a lot of room between the motherboard and psu, I'm afraid it may not fit if I order one.
Click to expand...

I can but i'm a little away from fitment yet as waiting for more parts

csd said:
What pump are you changing over to with the new block?
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Probably switch to DDC and see if I can keep it internal as well as keeping the dual rads.
 
Got one of these boards coming in the mail.

I got the 5820K CPU and I bought this RAM:

http://www.newegg.ca/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16820232088

Im thinking about sending it back because it looks too tall to work with the Noctua i4 cooler I also have coming in the mail:

http://www.amazon.ca/dp/B00E1JGFA0/ref=pe_386430_126088100_TE_item

But Im also starting to get real confused about memory compatibility in this board. I understand I may need another RAM stick to flash the bios because the board didnt support non-ecc RAM in 16GB formats with early bios revisions...

But then, what if I want to upgrade to a xeon later on? Can I use non-ecc non-registered memory with a xeon on this board?

If I get some registered memory instead (see link below) what happens when I put that in with my corei7 5820k cpu? Does it use the extra features or ignore them?

http://www.memoryexpress.com/Products/MX59560

One more "finally".... This RAM appears to be the same as the one this guy used here (see first post):

http://www.tonymacx86.com/user-buil...951-6-core-5820k-32gb-gtx970.html#post1074083

But the one Im thinking of getting has 16HA at the end of the part name instead of just 16. The H might refer to the kind of chips on the stick but I cant figure out what the A is for.

Thoughts?
 
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It's pretty straightforward. 16GB non-ECC RAM will require a UEFI update. 16GB ECC RAM will not (32GB ones do, but that was a while ago, so you probably won't need to update). Xeon CPUs support both types of RAM. The Core i7 lines works with non-ECC only.
 
Yes, I am new here although I have been building my own PC's for 26 years. Two years ago an SFF opportunity occurred but that was quickly satisfied with a number of Intel's NUC boxes all of which performed really well.

Our biggest problem has always been the fact that our core product has always required lots of cores to demonstrate well. As a result we have had a few failed attempts at building a mobile demo machine (where mobile is carry on luggage).

I have been following this ASRock board since its release and (thanks mainly to many of the posts from this thread) have now decided to bite the bullet with our first true SFF build.

The only graphics requirement we have is to be able to render to a 4K display which can easily done by a GeForce GTX 750 TI. We also like the look of the Lian Li PC-TU100b case as a travelling companion making our first attempt look something like this:-

XEON E5-2676 V3
32GB Crucial (2x16GB) Registered DDR4-2133 memory
Samsung 512GB 950 Pro
2x Crucial M550 1TB 2.5" (in RAID 0 array)
1x Samsung M9T 2GB 2.5" drive
Zotac GeForce GTX 750 Ti 2GB
Silverstone Strider Gold 450 80+ SFX PSU
Lian Li PC-TU100B

We picked the E5-2676 V3 (ES) as it was the cheapest way to do a proof of concept of what we are trying to achieve before we start spending any real money in the months to come.

Cooling is going to be trial and error and i would welcome any suggestions. Our current plan is to install the "preferred" Seidon 120V cooler but we will probably replace the fan (if possible) with something like our stock H80 or even a Silent Wings 2 for that matter.

I also have access to an H80i from another machine if necessary.

As we won't be overclocking, the cooling demands aren't as great as those for an overclocked 5960X!

Any help/suggestions for my first SFX build would be most welcome.
 
Can anyone post their IBT/LinX results and what ram their running?

Interested to see what Gflops everyone else is getting on this board as mine seem low

And, has anyone had luck I'm running the Gskill Trident Z's either?
 
crhendo said:
Yes, I am new here although I have been building my own PC's for 26 years. Two years ago an SFF opportunity occurred but that was quickly satisfied with a number of Intel's NUC boxes all of which performed really well.

Our biggest problem has always been the fact that our core product has always required lots of cores to demonstrate well. As a result we have had a few failed attempts at building a mobile demo machine (where mobile is carry on luggage).

I have been following this ASRock board since its release and (thanks mainly to many of the posts from this thread) have now decided to bite the bullet with our first true SFF build.

The only graphics requirement we have is to be able to render to a 4K display which can easily done by a GeForce GTX 750 TI. We also like the look of the Lian Li PC-TU100b case as a travelling companion making our first attempt look something like this:-

XEON E5-2676 V3
32GB Crucial (2x16GB) Registered DDR4-2133 memory
Samsung 512GB 950 Pro
2x Crucial M550 1TB 2.5" (in RAID 0 array)
1x Samsung M9T 2GB 2.5" drive
Zotac GeForce GTX 750 Ti 2GB
Silverstone Strider Gold 450 80+ SFX PSU
Lian Li PC-TU100B

We picked the E5-2676 V3 (ES) as it was the cheapest way to do a proof of concept of what we are trying to achieve before we start spending any real money in the months to come.

Cooling is going to be trial and error and i would welcome any suggestions. Our current plan is to install the "preferred" Seidon 120V cooler but we will probably replace the fan (if possible) with something like our stock H80 or even a Silent Wings 2 for that matter.

I also have access to an H80i from another machine if necessary.

As we won't be overclocking, the cooling demands aren't as great as those for an overclocked 5960X!

Any help/suggestions for my first SFX build would be most welcome.
Click to expand...

All looks pretty good to me.

Have you considered the Ncase for travelling (with a carry bag - LINK)? I couldn't recommend this case enough and should fit everything you need :)

Cooling /w a H80 will be more than enough.

Seems a lot of different HDDs however? Are they all needed?
 
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Thanks for your contributions.

Have you considered the Ncase for travelling (with a carry bag - LINK)? I couldn't recommend this case enough and should fit everything you need
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We would have preferred the Ncase but regrettably its maximum measurement (328mm) falls outside the carry on requirements for some of our "outback" trips.

Cooling /w a H80 will be more than enough
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That's good to hear. Nobody appears to mention the ASRock "preferred" Seidon 120V cooler in these threads. Is there a problem with this cooler that I don't know about?

Seems a lot of different HDDs however? Are they all needed?
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All the disks have a specific use although the two M550's will probably be replaced by two Samsung 2TB 850 Pro's in RAID 1 configuration for the production build.
 
crhendo said:
Nobody appears to mention the ASRock "preferred" Seidon 120V cooler in these threads. Is there a problem with this cooler that I don't know about?
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I have the Seidon.

The pump is a bit irritating. Considering how quiet the rest of the system is, I'm not suprised i can hear it! Can't hear it at all when i put my headphones on (even without music/sound through them) to put it in perspective.

I also had to chip a tiny part off to get the mount to fit properly. Like half a matchstick head size. Not sure if that would worry folks of not.

Nox
 
A tip for those considering using a Noctua C14 or other cooler with tight clearance for screws: you can use regular M4 screws. Others on this thread have been able to get the spring-loaded screws from the included Dynatron cooler to work, but I found it almost impossible to get a grip on the screw heads for the rear screws beneath the heatpipes due to the extremely tight vertical clearance. For my C14 installation, I tried several lengths but found 10 mm M4 screws to work the best. I used a single thin washer between the screw head and the bracket, and tried my best to tighten them to a similar depth and tension to the front two screws, where I stuck with the Dynatron screws. I’m hoping that a small pressure or height differential won’t lead to uneven cooling across the CPU surface or other problems, and I will report if anything comes up. Seems like a snug fit, and the 1 cm or so of extra headroom above the screws made tightening them down much easier. I should also add that I used this ultra-low-profile horizontal ratchet screwdriver that also made the tightening much easier. Taking the screws out or switching out the cooler in the future will not be a problem.

Linus used an H80i on this board in his MOST Compact Gaming Machine and switched out one of the Dynatron screws with a lower-profile screw he had lying around in order to accommodate the bent hoses coming off the H80i waterblock. He doesn’t specify the screw measurements, but it looks similar to what I used.

Another, perhaps obvious, tip for C14 users: install the cpu and cooler on the mobo before you do anything else, if possible. Before installing the RAM, before hooking up any cables, and before inserting the motherboard into the case. You want as much room to maneuver your driver around those screws and to be able to see what you are doing.

Thanks to everyone on this great thread for your insight, persistence, and help. My air-cooled mini-ITX workstation is complete (for the moment), and I’m tickled.

Here's a photo of the screwdriver, the unused Dynatron screw (left), and the regular 10 mm M4 screw I used (right):

IEc7Jqf.jpg
 
Nox said:
I have the Seidon.

The pump is a bit irritating. Considering how quiet the rest of the system is, I'm not suprised i can hear it! Can't hear it at all when i put my headphones on (even without music/sound through them) to put it in perspective.

I also had to chip a tiny part off to get the mount to fit properly. Like half a matchstick head size. Not sure if that would worry folks of not.

Nox
Click to expand...

I have the Seidon 120V too. The pump is quiet at idle when using ASRock's 'Silent' profile but you can hear it under load. Performance is pretty good, considering it's cooling a 5820K in a hot case (low 60's in games, high 60's when rendering). I didn't have to chip or remove anything to get the ASRock mount to fit.
 
inchikiboze said:
A tip for those considering using a Noctua C14
Click to expand...

Thanks for the info! Ive got one of these coming in the mail :) Going in to a fractal design 304 case.

I just got the MB in last night and she's a looker! Very impressed with the quality. Put in a 5820K cpu and a single stick of 16GB ecc ram (ecc in case I want to do something with a xeon later on). Just got it through a night of memtest and will do some cpu torture testing while I wait for that cooler.

Cheers.

Tom
 
I swapped out the Azurewave with the Intel 2760 and problem solved. It really is mind-boggling why Asrock choose such a crappy wireless device.
 
Not just AsRock, the Asus VII Impact, and I believe VIII Impact too, also use this card. I ordered one along with the board when I saw it came with Broadcom drivers. I had too many issues with these with my Z87E-ITX that also had the horrible AzureWave cards.

I don't know how these ever come through QA since many people seem to have issues with these.
 
Phuncz said:
I don't know how these ever come through QA since many people seem to have issues with these.
Click to expand...

The simple and probably true answer is; they don't do any QA/QC. I also swapped out to use Intel card on my mini-itx board.
 
Mackan said:
The simple and probably true answer is; they don't do any QA/QC. I also swapped out to use Intel card on my mini-itx board.
Click to expand...

Or the Broadcom cards last long enough to make it through QA, but shit the bed soon after. Most disappointing part of the X99E-itx. It's good that it can be easily replaced, but it's annoying to have to do after paying the premium for this board.
 
I've not had a single issue with the wifi card that shipped with my x99e-itx.

Might be because it didn't make it out of the box and onto the motherboard though :)

Nox
 
Question for any owners using this board with wireless peripherals:

Are you having any wireless device performance issues? I have been having trouble for months, and trying to find the culprit is driving me crazy.

I have the ASRock X99E-itx/ac in an NCASE M1. I'm using a Logitech MX Master wireless mouse. I have replaced the included WiFi/Bluetooth card with the recommended Intel 7260. WiFi performance is good.

The mouse works alright when connected via Bluetooth. There is a minor amount of choppiness all the time, but it's minor enough that the mouse is usable, though not ideal. I would prefer to use the Logitech unified USB receiver, which I believe also operates on the 2.4Ghz band. When it works well, the unified receiver seems to provide the smoothest experience.

The problem is that it doesn't always work well. I'd like to have the receiver plugged into one of the USB ports on the back of the computer, leaving the two front panel ports open. The rear panel ports are probably about 2-3 feet from the mouse, and the mouse becomes choppy every so often. If I plug the receiver into one of the front panel ports, which is probably about 18 inches from the mouse, performance is generally good, but at the expense of tying up one of my front panel ports.

The real issue is that whenever I plug a flash drive, SD card reader, or similar device into a USB port near the unified receiver, the mouse becomes unusable. It either stops working completely, or only moves every couple of seconds.

I know the problem is not the mouse. I have tried two different MX Masters, and an Anywhere MX. I have the same problem with all three mice (and all three unified receivers).

I know the problem is not the flash drive/SD card reader. I have tried several different models of those as well, and have the same issue regardless.

That leaves something in the computer. I experience the issue whether using the front panel ports or rear ports, which eliminates the case, leaving the motherboard as the likely culprit.
 
It's EMI and it's a thing, leaking at the USB ports with many cases. You need a USB extender (like this) if using the 2.4GHz RF USB receiver.

If Bluetooth doesn't function well enough with the supplied antenna (in an open spot, not behind the PC), something is interfering. It might be other 2.4GHz devices. RF like your Unifying adapter, Wireless, cordless phones, etc etc.

Cisco has this to say:
Myth #1: "The only interference problems are from other 802.11 networks."

There are a tremendous number of 802.11 devices out there. It is true that the other 802.11 networks can cause interference with your network. This type of interference is known as co-channel and adjacent channel interference. But since other 802.11 devices follow the same protocol, they tend to work cooperatively-that is, two access points on the same channel will share the channel capacity.

In reality, the many other types of devices emitting in the unlicensed band dwarf the number of 802.11 devices. These devices include microwave ovens, cordless phones, Bluetooth devices, wireless video cameras, outdoor microwave links, wireless game controllers, Zigbee devices, fluorescent lights, WiMAX, and so on. Even bad electrical connections can cause broad RF spectrum emissions. These non-802.11 types of interference typically don't work cooperatively with 802.11 devices, and can cause significant loss of throughput. In addition, they can cause secondary effects such as rate back-off, in which retransmissions caused by interference trick the 802.11 devices into thinking that they should use lower data rates than appropriate.
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That's kind of what I figured. I also found this a while back:

http://www.usb.org/developers/docs/whitepapers/327216.pdf

It seems USB3 ports are prone to leaking EMI in the 2.4Ghz spectrum on which wireless devices operate.

I can't replicate it on another computer. I'm just curious if others with this board are experiencing the same issue.

Initially I thought it was just the front panel ports with the issue so I was going to try some EMI tape but the back ports are a problem as well. An extender is probably the solution, though I'd like to avoid more wires. Bluetooth performance is actually much better than I thought. It was very bad with the included card but has improved dramatically with the Intel 7260. I may just stick with Bluetooth for now.
 
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Epos7, I have essentially the same setup: X99E-ITX/Ncase M1/MX Master, and I can confirm that the problem is not just you. I get erratic response from the Master if the dongle is on one of the motherboard ports, which is one of the reasons why I use an external USB hub beneath my monitor with a direct line-of-sight to the mouse. I don't think that Logitech is to blame, as I experience similar connectivity issues if I hook up my other 2.4 wireless I/O peripherals to the mobo: an Evoluent Vertical Mouse 4, a Microsoft Sculpt Mobile Mouse, and a Microsoft Sculpt Ergonomic Keyboard.

If you don't want extra cables, does your monitor or keyboard has a free USB port? I personally find even the best implementations of Bluetooth to be a bit flaky for something as crucial as desktop mouse use, but you may be more patient than I.
 
I really need some new RAM but the Asrock site, BIOS and memory list hadn't been updated for ages, so I don't want to take the chance on new Trident Zs or Ripjaw Vs...

What >2800 kits are people using? Kingston or Gskil preferred
 
inchikiboze said:
Epos7, I have essentially the same setup: X99E-ITX/Ncase M1/MX Master, and I can confirm that the problem is not just you. I get erratic response from the Master if the dongle is on one of the motherboard ports, which is one of the reasons why I use an external USB hub beneath my monitor with a direct line-of-sight to the mouse. I don't think that Logitech is to blame, as I experience similar connectivity issues if I hook up my other 2.4 wireless I/O peripherals to the mobo: an Evoluent Vertical Mouse 4, a Microsoft Sculpt Mobile Mouse, and a Microsoft Sculpt Ergonomic Keyboard.

If you don't want extra cables, does your monitor or keyboard has a free USB port? I personally find even the best implementations of Bluetooth to be a bit flaky for something as crucial as desktop mouse use, but you may be more patient than I.
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Thanks for confirming the issue, I was starting to think I was a unique case. Bluetooth is acceptable so far, the only issue being that if the mouse is idle for 20+ seconds it takes a split second for it to begin registering movement again. It's 100x better with the Intel 7260 card than the included one.

I almost bought a keyboard with a USB port for the exact reason you mentioned, but went a different route in the end. I'll give the Bluetooth a few more days, if I can't live with it I may just end up biting the bullet and getting a USB hub.
 
csd said:
I really need some new RAM but the Asrock site, BIOS and memory list hadn't been updated for ages, so I don't want to take the chance on new Trident Zs or Ripjaw Vs...

What >2800 kits are people using? Kingston or Gskil preferred
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I am interested in this as well.

I see a lot of people using the Kingston FURY DDR4-2666 but no one using anything higher.
 
Ive got this board with a 5820K CPU on it and thought I'd play around with the overclocking options.

So I go into OC Tweater in the UEFI and I see an option for "Load Optimized CPU OC Setting" and inside the adjacent box there is a "Turbo" option for 3.8 ghz. I select that and then exit saving my changes.

I dont have an OS installed yet but when I run memtest its still showing the cpu at 3300 mhz. and the lubuntu cpu id tools I run on my live USB stick show the same. So does the UEFI (Main tab) when I go back in there even though that Turbo option is still selected.

Is there some master checkbox I need to select to make the choices in OC Tweaker have an effect?
 
I put a Noctua NH-U9DXi4 cooler on my board and Im wondering what all the fuss has been about with people using custom screws and ratchets or using the screws from the stock cooler.

My kit came with three mounting brackets, one of which would have turned the cooler "sideways" and another which installed it blowing "properly" from front to back.

Anyway, the kit came with a long Allan key and I just removed the two fans and had no issue at all installing it. The screws seemed to stop turning just as it was starting to get tight.

Is that the reason people are doing all this custom work that I see in earlier posts? To clamp it down tighter? My 8250k idles at 41 degrees or so with the cpu fans showing 1350 rpm in the H/W Monitor of the UEFI.

Is there something Im missing or could I do worlds better by modifying the mounting on my setup?
 
TomK said:
I put a Noctua NH-U9DXi4 cooler on my board and Im wondering what all the fuss has been about with people using custom screws and ratchets or using the screws from the stock cooler.

My kit came with three mounting brackets, one of which would have turned the cooler "sideways" and another which installed it blowing "properly" from front to back.

Anyway, the kit came with a long Allan key and I just removed the two fans and had no issue at all installing it. The screws seemed to stop turning just as it was starting to get tight.

Is that the reason people are doing all this custom work that I see in earlier posts? To clamp it down tighter? My 8250k idles at 41 degrees or so with the cpu fans showing 1350 rpm in the H/W Monitor of the UEFI.

Is there something Im missing or could I do worlds better by modifying the mounting on my setup?
Click to expand...

People are using the narrow ILM kits that come with the *DXi4 coolers to mount the larger C14S etc. The heatpipes from the C14 make it difficult to screw in, using the standard cooler would be a piece of cake ;)

What's your ambient temp and voltage/OC you're running? Seems high-ish for idling, though that is only a 92mm cooler also...

*edit: saw your post two above - perhaps Memtest etc doesn't ramp up the CPU for turbo, so it just runs stock? Check when your OS is installed.
 
i was wondering the same - my NH-U9DXi4 also fitted fine :) Replaced the rather noisy (in comparison) Seidon. Temps are roughly the same too under max load.

Nox
 
TomK and Nox, how are you finding the U9DXi4? What kind of overclocks/temps are you getting on what CPUs? How is the noise under load?
 
csd said:
I really need some new RAM but the Asrock site, BIOS and memory list hadn't been updated for ages, so I don't want to take the chance on new Trident Zs or Ripjaw Vs...

What >2800 kits are people using? Kingston or Gskil preferred
Click to expand...


i was able to install OS using 2x16gb corsair dominator 3000mhz at rated specs using the latest bios.

no further testing was done as there was no overclock.
 
Can confirm that Corsair seem to work fine. I've got 2x16GB Vengeance LPX 2666 running at 2800, without any problems. Can't promise anything regarding faster Vengeance kits of course, but I'd expect them to work as well. I needed a 4GB DIMM to upgrade the BIOS first.
 
inchikiboze said:
TomK and Nox, how are you finding the U9DXi4? What kind of overclocks/temps are you getting on what CPUs? How is the noise under load?
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i run everything with a +25% across the board. Noise from the noctua is drowned out by my GPU - before the noctua, the irritating thing was the clicking from the seidon pump.

Temp wise it's roughly the same under full load. I ran a load with the seidon and it was 75-76 degrees C, swapped over to the noctua and reran the test. It was 76-77. However this was the evening right after work, and the heating in the house had also come on so by the time the heatsink was switched, the room would of warmed up a bit. Either way, it's so close and a noise upgrade for sure.

I've since learnt that the pump may be quieter if i take it directly from the rails, rather than a fan header. something to try tonight :)

I saw a sig with a C14 in an NCase - i didn't think that fitted. very curious now, but will see how the current one gets on :)

Nox
 
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