Daniel Minzi
n00b
- Joined
- Jun 29, 2016
- Messages
- 38
I am a bit confused as to which air coolers are compatible with this motherboard... Can anyone help me out?
Follow along with the video below to see how to install our site as a web app on your home screen.
Note: This feature currently requires accessing the site using the built-in Safari browser.
Just make sure you have paint that won't eat the plastic, and you protect the slots from the paint!Doing something a bit ridiculous. Hopefully the board is still alive now let alone after painting in completed. Wish me luck.
![]()
Doing something a bit ridiculous. Hopefully the board is still alive now let alone after painting in completed. Wish me luck.
![]()
I am a bit confused as to which air coolers are compatible with this motherboard... Can anyone help me out?
Dynatron
Did you manage to spray paint the connections shut? I hope it went okay... Please let us know what happened.
The motherboard uses the LGA 2011-v3 Narrow ILM socket. There are 3 coolers from Noctua that offer native support -- NH-U12DX i4, NH-U9DX i4, and NH-D9DX i4 3U. Technically, any Noctua cooler can work, but you need to request a narrow ILM bracket when you order from them. Additionally, there are server coolers, mostly from Dynatron -- one is included with the board, but they're meant for servers and hence they use 40mm fans that spin up to 7000 RPM! which is insanely loud, so it's not recommended for consumers (though ASRock apparently thought it was).
For liquid cooling, the board comes with a bracket that works perfectly with the Seidon 120V and 120V Plus from Cooler Master, and also can be made to work with some older square-shaped Corsair units. Otherwise, any Asetek-based cooler will work if you order an Asetek Narrow ILM bracket from Asetek's EBay store. Here's a list of all available Asetek-based coolers -- LGA 2011-V3 Narrow ILM and All In One Liquid Cooler Compatibility
Good luck!
I hope you covered the actual slots/pins themselves?
If you need to use the 3.5 inch drive cage on the front half of the side bracket this is not possible with the NH-C14.
No, I can confirm the 3.5 in drive cage works with the NH-C14 + X99e ITX + Ncase M1 V4. The cage doesn't even touch the cooler (tips of the heatpipes line up perfectly with drive cage's holes). There's about 2mm from the drive mounting thumbscrew to the fins.
But if you want to mount a second drive on the cage you'll only be able to use the cage's center screw slot on the side closes to the cooler.
![]()
So, then I thought to update the BIOS firmware. After completing this, I noticed that now every single time, it goes through a terribly long boot cycle before reaching my SSD. And, when I want to enter into the UEFI, that also takes a good 20-30 seconds after pressing "Del" or "F2". I've checked my BIOS settings regarding bootup, I've also loaded the defaults. Anyone else have any problems after updating?
[Edit: despite the long bootup, it does reach my MBR (Windows) at least]
I've dealt with many a PC problems, but this a new one for me. Has anyone experienced anything like this before...? Any suggestions would be very welcomed.
Thanks!
This is a very freshly installed E5 2699 V4 Engineering Sample with 3.11 Beta BIOS (because it has turbo improvements) with a few of the usual performance measurers in play.
View attachment 2709 View attachment 2684 View attachment 2685
Did you confirm that the stick(s) you were testing with works?Looks like I have to RMA this motherboard again. Both ram slot seem to have died
Yeah, they work fine on my z170. I have 4 different stick of ddr4. Two for my x99 itx and two for my z170 itx. All four work on the z170, ran memtest on all of them last night with no problem. Seems the ram slot on my asrock x99e-itx just randomly died since it doesn't detect any of them. I hooked up a speaker to the motherboard and get 3 beeps which indicates memory read/write error according to asrock manual. Hopefully asrock RMA it since this was a replacement they sent me on my last RMADid you confirm that the stick(s) you were testing with works?
I'm not sure how an antenna could "not support" Bluetooth, as antennas are typically just runs of wiring. There's optimal lengths of wiring for different frequencies. Bluetooth, since it's in the 2.4 GHz range, would have an optimal antenna length of 12cm, but quarter antennas are very common, so 30 mm works well too.
Newer antennas may be optimized for 802.11AC at 5 GHz, however. So while that length isn't optimal for 2.4 GHz technically, doesn't mean it won't work.
This board already supports 32gb sticks but you'd need a bios update.
Yes, ECC only, so you'd require a Xeon CPU as well. Presumably 64/128GB DIMMs work as well (though you need E5-26xx CPUs for that, so no overclocking), but I've not heard of any reports thus far.Would the 32GB DIMMs be server RAM / ECC RAM…? I am not seeing any two stick kits of 'regular' DDR4 DIMMs on Newegg…
Yes, it does.The latest BIOS update supports up to 16GB DIMM (non ECC) right?
My reasoning was the same, but as it turns out antennas do differ in their support. I've confirmed with SilverStone that their antennas don't support Bluetooth. Also, one of them is only single-band, while the other supports 2.4GHz and 5GHz. So there's clearly more to antennas than just extensions of wiring.
Why are you wanting that CPU? You would get considerably better performance with an i7 6800K even if you don't overclock for the same price. Generally the only reason to get a Xeon is if you need ECC RAM (which you don't seem to) or want a high core count (14-22).
Antennas like the ones we're talking about don't have any kind of active electronics in them, they really are just runs of wire. My take on their comment is they've never tested it with Bluetooth, not that it won't work. It's possible that in dual antenna setups, one antenna is for WiFi, and one for Bluetooth, but that just seems like a waste to me. If in doubt, get one that's certified for Bluetooth, as it'll be an appropriate length for 2.4GHz, and you'll get better signal strength/less noise.
I highly doubt there's an internal antenna for the Bluetooth, particularly since so many cases are metal nowadays. Metal will hinder the signal, so an internal antenna wouldn't work very well.
Antennas like the ones we're talking about don't have any kind of active electronics in them, they really are just runs of wire. My take on their comment is they've never tested it with Bluetooth, not that it won't work. It's possible that in dual antenna setups, one antenna is for WiFi, and one for Bluetooth, but that just seems like a waste to me. If in doubt, get one that's certified for Bluetooth, as it'll be an appropriate length for 2.4GHz, and you'll get better signal strength/less noise.
I highly doubt there's an internal antenna for the Bluetooth, particularly since so many cases are metal nowadays. Metal will hinder the signal, so an internal antenna wouldn't work very well.
Original, that looks amazing! Do you have a build log?