X570 Crosshair VIII Dark Hero

professional loser

Limp Gawd
Joined
Mar 22, 2018
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134
Ok I will go for the CAS 16 version ($100 more than the CAS18 version). These are all similar price. My PC has no windows and RGB is a non issue for me. Should I go for option 1 over the other two?

OPTION 1, Around $450
G.Skill Ripjaws V, $450
2x, 32GB, DDR4-3600, DIMM 288
F4-3600C16D-64GVK
Hardware application range: Server / Workstation

OPTION 2, Around $450
G.Skill DDR4 PC 3600 CL16 KIT 64GTZR Tri/Z
2x, 32GB, DDR4-3600, DIMM 288
F4-3600C16D-64GTZR

OPTION 3, Around $450
G.Skill Neo
2x, 32GB, DDR4-3600, DIMM 288
F4-3600C16D-64GTZN

OPTION 1B (There is the 128 GB kit option) $812.–was $972.–
G.Skill Ripjaws,
4x, 32GB, DDR4-3600, DIMM 288
F4-3600C16Q-128GVK
 
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mda

2[H]4U
Joined
Mar 23, 2011
Messages
2,187
Don't think you'll really notice the difference between C18 and C16 unless your workload is extremely latency sensitive -- I'm guessing for server/workstation duty, it's probably going to be more capacity/bandwidth sensitive than latency sensitive.

This requirement may differ depending on your workload of course.

The Crucial Ballistix 3600 C16 64GB (2x32GB) are 375 on amazon other sites, which is cheaper, unless you mean 450$ after tax for your options.

https://www.amazon.com/Crucial-Ballistix-Desktop-Gaming-BL2K32G36C16U4B/dp/B083TSLC72
https://www.bhphotovideo.com/c/prod...32g36c16u4b_ballistix_64gb_32x2_3600_mhz.html
 

kirbyrj

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Feb 1, 2005
Messages
29,864
Don't think you'll really notice the difference between C18 and C16 unless your workload is extremely latency sensitive -- I'm guessing for server/workstation duty, it's probably going to be more capacity/bandwidth sensitive than latency sensitive.

This requirement may differ depending on your workload of course.

The Crucial Ballistix 3600 C16 64GB (2x32GB) are 375 on amazon other sites, which is cheaper, unless you mean 450$ after tax for your options.

https://www.amazon.com/Crucial-Ballistix-Desktop-Gaming-BL2K32G36C16U4B/dp/B083TSLC72
https://www.bhphotovideo.com/c/prod...32g36c16u4b_ballistix_64gb_32x2_3600_mhz.html

Also, C18 might tighten to C16 anyway. I do that with my 2x16GB Hynix CJR sticks and it works perfectly fine.
 

vegeta535

[H]F Junkie
Joined
Jul 19, 2013
Messages
8,901
Damn ram prices really starting to suck again. I paid $160 for 32gb of the 3600 cas 16 a year ago.

Edit: I just looked at my MC receipt. It was $130 for g.skill ripjaw 3600 cas 16. This was 12/15/2019. Same kit now goes for $205 at MC.
 
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professional loser

Limp Gawd
Joined
Mar 22, 2018
Messages
134
Don't think you'll really notice the difference between C18 and C16 unless your workload is extremely latency sensitive -- I'm guessing for server/workstation duty, it's probably going to be more capacity/bandwidth sensitive than latency sensitive.

This requirement may differ depending on your workload of course.

The Crucial Ballistix 3600 C16 64GB (2x32GB) are 375 on amazon other sites, which is cheaper, unless you mean 450$ after tax for your options.

https://www.amazon.com/Crucial-Ballistix-Desktop-Gaming-BL2K32G36C16U4B/dp/B083TSLC72
https://www.bhphotovideo.com/c/prod...32g36c16u4b_ballistix_64gb_32x2_3600_mhz.html
I am in Europe, the prices I gave are absolute total price with tax. I have narrowed down to these two G.Skill Ripjaws V-

CAS Latency 16/DDR4-3600
4 x 32 GB, F4-3600C16Q-128GVK $812 (Since launch the lowest price $690, the highest prices $930)
2 x 32 GB, F4-3600C16D-64GVK $448 (Since launch the lowest price $340, the highest prices $450)

Only 2 sets of each left. I need to pull the trigger NOW! lol

EDIT- The CAS 16 timing RAM requires 1.45v VS 1.35v for CAS 18 timing RAM. What should I make of that? Will I bleed $ in electricity for only few % performance gain?

RAM-1.PNG
 
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mda

2[H]4U
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Mar 23, 2011
Messages
2,187
For most workstation tasks, I doubt you'd see the difference unless you manually time your tasks. I'd suggest you take the cheaper kit.

The additional voltage required by the C16 RAM does not really matter.

Remember that the wattage consumed is a product of voltage x amperage. While the voltage is indeed a bit higher, the total power draw will not "bleed" you. You will in fact save more money in electricity costs by either undervolting your CPU or by choosing a B550 over the power hungrier X570 chipset ;D
 

soulesschild

Supreme [H]ardness
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Feb 18, 2007
Messages
6,176
Updated to the latest BIOS with the USB patch. Seems to be working fine so far.

Also enabled Re-BAR with my 3090.
 

professional loser

Limp Gawd
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Mar 22, 2018
Messages
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Messages
645
I am starting to look around for parts for my next gaming only PC and this will be my first ever AMD build. I have read that this is THE motherboard to buy. I also read that it is impossible to find. My local Microcenter has 11 in stock. This is the correct motherboard right?
https://www.microcenter.com/product...sshair-viii-dark-hero-amd-am4-atx-motherboard

That's the one. Doesn't seem they've been terribly difficult to find in their stores. I ordered on-line and picked up in store like two months ago.
 

evhvis

Limp Gawd
Joined
Feb 12, 2021
Messages
341
I am starting to look around for parts for my next gaming only PC and this will be my first ever AMD build. I have read that this is THE motherboard to buy. I also read that it is impossible to find. My local Microcenter has 11 in stock. This is the correct motherboard right?
https://www.microcenter.com/product...sshair-viii-dark-hero-amd-am4-atx-motherboard
It kind of depends on what you are after. For my part the draw was no chipset fan, m.2 locations, overclocking possibilities and I like overbuilt hardware. You can get good x570 motherboards for much less, that have most of the features that are in the dark hero. IMO it mostly makes sense with 5950x or 5900x and kind of with the 5800x. If you are making a build with few compromises then the board makes sense, but I wouldn't buy it to run with a 5600x and a 6700xt.
 

rinaldo00

[H]ard|Gawd
Joined
Mar 9, 2005
Messages
1,863
It kind of depends on what you are after. For my part the draw was no chipset fan, m.2 locations, overclocking possibilities and I like overbuilt hardware. You can get good x570 motherboards for much less, that have most of the features that are in the dark hero. IMO it mostly makes sense with 5950x or 5900x and kind of with the 5800x. If you are making a build with few compromises then the board makes sense, but I wouldn't buy it to run with a 5600x and a 6700xt.
My plan was to pair it with a 5900x (and use the exclusive OC mode the Dark Hero has) and use them with the 3080Ti.

Thanks for the replies everyone!
 

ThatITGuy

Gawd
Joined
May 5, 2017
Messages
577
I think right now it is harder to find the 5900x than the Dark Hero(at least in my experience currently).
 

evhvis

Limp Gawd
Joined
Feb 12, 2021
Messages
341
I think right now it is harder to find the 5900x than the Dark Hero(at least in my experience currently).
True, the 5800x is currently in stock with 50+ and the 5600x has often been in stock at my country's leading etailer, but the 5950x and 5900x have been order and you will get delivery hopefully in a month or two ever since launch. Dark hero was in stock at launch at 50+ units and has often been in stock, but my 5900x took 5 weeks even though I got my order through aprox. 3 mins after launch. Never seen it in stock, but afaik the 5950x is even more difficult to get than the 5900x. Could most likely order a 5900x and have it sometime in may or june, but not sure if it would be the same for a 5950x. The CPU should be easy to get though compared to a 3080ti which hasn't been launched yet and graphics cards for backorder (pretty much none can be ordered) at etailers is rare at the moment, at least in country.
 

ThatITGuy

Gawd
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May 5, 2017
Messages
577
You may be right. I didn't get mine at retail. Luckily another forum member threw me a bone.
My Dark Hero has an estimated date of May 8th, so I have time. Currently fretting over memory while watch listing every site i can to see when a 5900X comes in stock.
 

RanceJustice

Supreme [H]ardness
Joined
Jun 9, 2003
Messages
6,270
I'd have a Dark Hero sitting here since the holidays (which a family member only found by happenstance before it was on the shelves at MC - it was the ONE they got in that day!) , but until today I was striking out trying to get a reasonably priced 5950X for it - until today! Picked one up with the help of notifications and it will be arriving within a week or so; paid retail!

Now I see others are discussing RAM for the Dark Hero and getting the most performance/OC out of a 5950X, I';ve been looking at 32GB kits (dual channel), and 3600mhz as a minimum. I've been thinking for GSkill Trident Z Neo (or maybe, maybe the Royal version but its too blingy for my taste with the ice/diamond effect), or possibly Corsair or Crucial RGB options if they're much better for some reason. I read that the Trident Z Neo are AMD friendly, have great specs, and their RGB is easy to control on-board with Asus AURA and other sorts of compatible APIs . Should I bother going above 3600mhz? Likewise, are CL14 , 16 kits really worth it? Is it better to seek something slower with a better CL or faster, or does it matter much at all at this point? It seems like 3600mhz CL16 is the middle of the road as it were, but there's also things like 4000mhz CL18 (though I wonder if they'd run tighter timings if slower etc) that might be worth it as well if the price isn't insane. Any advice?
 
Joined
Jan 18, 2007
Messages
645
I'd have a Dark Hero sitting here since the holidays (which a family member only found by happenstance before it was on the shelves at MC - it was the ONE they got in that day!) , but until today I was striking out trying to get a reasonably priced 5950X for it - until today! Picked one up with the help of notifications and it will be arriving within a week or so; paid retail!

Now I see others are discussing RAM for the Dark Hero and getting the most performance/OC out of a 5950X, I';ve been looking at 32GB kits (dual channel), and 3600mhz as a minimum. I've been thinking for GSkill Trident Z Neo (or maybe, maybe the Royal version but its too blingy for my taste with the ice/diamond effect), or possibly Corsair or Crucial RGB options if they're much better for some reason. I read that the Trident Z Neo are AMD friendly, have great specs, and their RGB is easy to control on-board with Asus AURA and other sorts of compatible APIs . Should I bother going above 3600mhz? Likewise, are CL14 , 16 kits really worth it? Is it better to seek something slower with a better CL or faster, or does it matter much at all at this point? It seems like 3600mhz CL16 is the middle of the road as it were, but there's also things like 4000mhz CL18 (though I wonder if they'd run tighter timings if slower etc) that might be worth it as well if the price isn't insane. Any advice?

I bought my CL14 ram to test against and hope to get some extra FCLK on the IF - this shit so fast i have not cared enough to go that far yet.
Anyone, and mostly everyone would be noticeably fine with a 3600 kit. Just IMO.
 

RanceJustice

Supreme [H]ardness
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Messages
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I bought my CL14 ram to test against and hope to get some extra FCLK on the IF - this shit so fast i have not cared enough to go that far yet.
Anyone, and mostly everyone would be noticeably fine with a 3600 kit. Just IMO.

Thanks - last I checked amazingly the 3600mhz CL14 kits looked to be extremely expensive so I wasn't sure if they'd be worth it over the CL16 or CL18 ones (16 at a relatively minor premium vs 18), or if anything faster would be warranted. I'm looking to get the most out of my 5950X and am unsure about manually OCing , using auto PBO2 or whatever its called, or the special mode that is Asus Dark Hero specific; I hear gives the best of both for both all-core and single/few core as needed. I'll invest in something if its worthwhile, but I don't want to pay a significant premium for minor benchmark-only kinds of gains either.
 

soulesschild

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Messages
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Thanks - last I checked amazingly the 3600mhz CL14 kits looked to be extremely expensive so I wasn't sure if they'd be worth it over the CL16 or CL18 ones (16 at a relatively minor premium vs 18), or if anything faster would be warranted. I'm looking to get the most out of my 5950X and am unsure about manually OCing , using auto PBO2 or whatever its called, or the special mode that is Asus Dark Hero specific; I hear gives the best of both for both all-core and single/few core as needed. I'll invest in something if its worthwhile, but I don't want to pay a significant premium for minor benchmark-only kinds of gains either.
Spending the $$$$$$$ on RAM to hit 2000 FLCK seems to be a fool's errand given how much problems I've seen with it. I seriously doubt anybody has it actually stable. It might be a bios issue but I would not spend the money now if your end goal is to have a fast and STABLE system. 3600 CL14 is plenty good unless you're trying to go for world first mem benches imho.
 

RanceJustice

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Messages
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Spending the $$$$$$$ on RAM to hit 2000 FLCK seems to be a fool's errand given how much problems I've seen with it. I seriously doubt anybody has it actually stable. It might be a bios issue but I would not spend the money now if your end goal is to have a fast and STABLE system. 3600 CL14 is plenty good unless you're trying to go for world first mem benches imho.

Thanks, but do you think that 3600 CL14 is particularly worth it over CL16 or higher? Going from memory, but it seemed like a 32GB Gskill TridentZ Neo 3600mhz kit was about $198 for CL18, $230 for CL16, but like $340 for CL14 .
 

soulesschild

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Messages
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Thanks, but do you think that 3600 CL14 is particularly worth it over CL16 or higher? Going from memory, but it seemed like a 32GB Gskill TridentZ Neo 3600mhz kit was about $198 for CL18, $230 for CL16, but like $340 for CL14 .
I personally went with the 2x32GB TridenZ 3600C16 kit. Mostly because the internet said 3600CL16 was the sweet spot and the price difference between C18 and C16 was about 20-30 give or take.

I don't do much memory OCing and I just run at DOCP/XMP. If you were dead set on OCing I'd do a bit more research to see what type of die the c14 is (probably b-die?). See here, https://github.com/integralfx/MemTestHelper/blob/master/DDR4 OC Guide.md
 

Digital Viper-X-

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Messages
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Spending the $$$$$$$ on RAM to hit 2000 FLCK seems to be a fool's errand given how much problems I've seen with it. I seriously doubt anybody has it actually stable. It might be a bios issue but I would not spend the money now if your end goal is to have a fast and STABLE system. 3600 CL14 is plenty good unless you're trying to go for world first mem benches imho.

I had it on 2000 FCLK / 4000 memory. Really didn't see any performance difference though over 3600 CL14 (HAd it at 4000 CL18), on top of that higher SOC voltage so I use 1800/3600.
 

KingGlade

Limp Gawd
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Dec 15, 2016
Messages
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I personally went with the 2x32GB TridenZ 3600C16 kit. Mostly because the internet said 3600CL16 was the sweet spot and the price difference between C18 and C16 was about 20-30 give or take.

I don't do much memory OCing and I just run at DOCP/XMP. If you were dead set on OCing I'd do a bit more research to see what type of die the c14 is (probably b-die?). See here, https://github.com/integralfx/MemTestHelper/blob/master/DDR4 OC Guide.md
I went with that same exact kit. Really good price to performance. I upgraded from a 16gb kit from corsair.
 

professional loser

Limp Gawd
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Mar 22, 2018
Messages
134
Guys looking for M.2 drive for Windows/boot drive. So slot 1/closest to the CPU is the right one, correct? Is this a good one and takes full use of the Mobo's speed etc?
Manufacturer no. MZ-V8P1T0BW
 

Denpepe

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Guys looking for M.2 drive for Windows/boot drive. So slot 1/closest to the CPU is the right one, correct? Is this a good one and takes full use of the Mobo's speed etc?
Manufacturer no. MZ-V8P1T0BW
Samsung are among the best SSD's you can buy, the 980 pro should do more then fine, they are pretty expensive as they are more for professional use, for regular use I would recommend the EVO line.
 

professional loser

Limp Gawd
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Mar 22, 2018
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Another question, struggling to get hold of 5900/5950X, my question is, if I install say 3500X or 5600x for next 1-3 months. Then I replace it with 5950X when I get hold of it, will I need to reinstall Windows again, or can I just swap it out?
 
Joined
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Messages
645
Another question, struggling to get hold of 5900/5950X, my question is, if I install say 3500X or 5600x for next 1-3 months. Then I replace it with 5950X when I get hold of it, will I need to reinstall Windows again, or can I just swap it out?
Yup, before I got my 5950X, I dropped a 3700X, then a 5600X into the Dark Hero before that. Flawless. (I am crazy happy with this board)
 

Zepher

[H]ipster Replacement
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Sep 29, 2001
Messages
19,563
BLT finally got some stock in, paid for the one I pre-ordered in November today, price went up, it's $433 now.
Email says it should ship today.
 

IndyColtsFan

Limp Gawd
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Jul 4, 2017
Messages
491
I have a really idiotic question. I installed my board and was going to install my nvme drive (WD SN850) in the slot immediately under the CPU. The heat sink has what appears to be a thermal pad with a film on it. When I remove the film, it’s pretty sticky. My biggest concern is that it will stick to the label on my nvme drive and tear it off and that contains serial number, etc. Am I overreacting?
 
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doubletake

Gawd
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Apr 27, 2013
Messages
837
Am I overreacting?

For the most part, yeah. When it comes time to remove the drive for whatever reason other than failure, just heat it up by running some benchmarks on it for ~5mins to get it at a steady state temp, then turn off the system and remove the heatsink ASAP.
 

IndyColtsFan

Limp Gawd
Joined
Jul 4, 2017
Messages
491
For the most part, yeah. When it comes time to remove the drive for whatever reason other than failure, just heat it up by running some benchmarks on it for ~5mins to get it at a steady state temp, then turn off the system and remove the heatsink ASAP.

Thanks! It ended up not being nearly as sticky as I thought and it actually came off a couple of times. I think I’ve got everything built and I’ll reload the OS and apps tomorrow. I built:

5950x
64 GB of b-die RAM (had 32 GB in my old system, bought another 32 GB)
1 TB WD SN850
Asus Crosshair VIII Dark Hero
Reused two 2 TB SSDs, a 4 TB spinner, a 1000 EVGA platinum PSU, and my 1080 Ti since I haven’t scored a 3090 yet. Also reused my Noctua NH-D15s cooler.
 

professional loser

Limp Gawd
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Mar 22, 2018
Messages
134
Looks like I will have all the parts to finish my 5950X based PC this weekend. So was looking through the Dark hero Manual and at the board. Refer to the attached image please.
With my Corsair HX1000 PSU, I have 2 types of CPU cables. The 24 PIN ATX is straightforward, and I will obviously connect it, but then there is another cable (two of them) marked CPU too.
On the manual it is labelled-
A- ATX-12V_2
and
B- ATX_12V_1

My question-
1) Do I have to connect them too if I have 24 PIN ATX connected?
2) If yes, the cable only has an end bit with connection for the B- ATX_12V_1 input (8 holes). Does the 4 hole, A- ATX-12V_2 stay empty (the one with the white question mark on the image).

Thanks :)
 

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professional loser

Limp Gawd
Joined
Mar 22, 2018
Messages
134
Looks like I will have all the parts to finish my 5950X based PC this weekend. So was looking through the Dark hero Manual and at the board. Refer to the attached image please.
With my Corsair HX1000 PSU, I have 2 types of CPU cables. The 24 PIN ATX is straightforward, and I will obviously connect it, but then there is another cable (two of them) marked CPU too.
On the manual it is labelled-
A- ATX-12V_2
and
B- ATX_12V_1

My question-
1) Do I have to connect them too if I have 24 PIN ATX connected?
2) If yes, the cable only has an end bit with connection for the B- ATX_12V_1 input (8 holes). Does the 4 hole, A- ATX-12V_2 stay empty (the one with the white question mark on the image).

Thanks :)

Replying to my own post. I think I got it figured out now-

So I have two 8 pin CPU cables.
- One of the 8 pin cable will fully go into B- ATX_12V_1
- The second will go into A- ATX-12V_2, it is splittable so only half will go in and half will just stay out (on the MOBO side)
- Obviously the 24 PIN ATX will go in too, on the other side of the board.
 

evhvis

Limp Gawd
Joined
Feb 12, 2021
Messages
341
Looks like I will have all the parts to finish my 5950X based PC this weekend. So was looking through the Dark hero Manual and at the board. Refer to the attached image please.
With my Corsair HX1000 PSU, I have 2 types of CPU cables. The 24 PIN ATX is straightforward, and I will obviously connect it, but then there is another cable (two of them) marked CPU too.
On the manual it is labelled-
A- ATX-12V_2
and
B- ATX_12V_1

My question-
1) Do I have to connect them too if I have 24 PIN ATX connected?
2) If yes, the cable only has an end bit with connection for the B- ATX_12V_1 input (8 holes). Does the 4 hole, A- ATX-12V_2 stay empty (the one with the white question mark on the image).

Thanks :)
1) You need at least the 8 pin connected. The 4 pin is optional unless doing very heavy overclocking.
2) A lot of PSUs have split 8-pin on the motherboard side, e.g. two 4-pins that can be merged to an 8 pin and one half of that would go in the 4 pin if extra power is needed.
 

Azrak

[H]ard|Gawd
Joined
Oct 4, 2015
Messages
1,068
Replying to my own post. I think I got it figured out now-

So I have two 8 pin CPU cables.
- One of the 8 pin cable will fully go into B- ATX_12V_1
- The second will go into A- ATX-12V_2, it is splittable so only half will go in and half will just stay out (on the MOBO side)
- Obviously the 24 PIN ATX will go in too, on the other side of the board.
You have the cable. You have the plugs. You aren't using the cable for any other purpose. It doesn't hurt anything; in fact it can only help by spreading the CPU power across more wires resulting in less voltage drop to the board, OCing or not.
Just plug the 2nd CPU cable in! I don't understand the resistance (pun intended) to plug in the 2nd cable.
I did on mine.
 
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