Wintsch Labs - Arctic Web 437W TEC

I know what watts are lol.

When you look at a CPU that says it outputs 80 or 100watts and a 226watt petlier, something should sound in your head saying "that should be more than enough".

But as you said it doesn't do real-world 226watt dissipation now does it? That is the thing I learned.

~Adam
 
CleanSlate said:
I know what watts are lol.

When you look at a CPU that says it outputs 80 or 100watts and a 226watt petlier, something should sound in your head saying "that should be more than enough".

But as you said it doesn't do real-world 226watt dissipation now does it? That is the thing I learned.

~Adam
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I've read more than one article that suggests you choose a peltier wattage that is 2 to 3X your anticipated need. Based on that, with a healthy OC that might translate into 110 to 140 watts. So a DP437 that should be capable of providing ~360w of cooling at 25V is not so outrageous?
 
CleanSlate said:
It was obvious in my post that NO I didn't know what the watts measured, I had an idea though. Learn new things daily.

Yet I never know anything.. oddly enough.

~Adam
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http://heatsink-guide.com/content.php?content=peltierinfo.shtml <-- seems to be a quite thorough guide on peltiers. Though i cannot vouch for the accurancy of it...

The 226watt spec are what the Qmax is in the first graph btw.

(Alternative link: (http://heatsink-guide.com/peltierinfo.shtml) )
 
I was curious on how they kept the neoprene gasket on the bottom of the pelt from being squished out of whack, when they wrapped the whole thing with the bike tube?
 
Where do you get that bike tube, I was searching online the other day and I couldn't find it. Did you put all 5 pieces that you cut around the block?
 
Yes I'm serious :) . I am getting on of these and will probably have almost the same setup as [H] had.
 
You can get bike tubes from any walmart around, any bike shop... target, whatever

~Adam
 
alik4041 said:
Yes I'm serious :) . I am getting on of these and will probably have almost the same setup as [H] had.
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well, please have a look at what i had to say regarding the condensation proofing that the [H] had.

even if the neoprene SHOULD be enough insulation, it's always good to have a plan B. i ruined a motherboard by not worrying about condensation in certain areas.

just waterproof everything, so that you have a system that is okay for day-to-day use.

you also need more radiating capacity than the review used, if you want optimal coolant temps at a quiet noise level.
 
DFI Daishi said:
well, please have a look at what i had to say regarding the condensation proofing that the [H] had.

even if the neoprene SHOULD be enough insulation, it's always good to have a plan B. i ruined a motherboard by not worrying about condensation in certain areas.

just waterproof everything, so that you have a system that is okay for day-to-day use.

you also need more radiating capacity than the review used, if you want optimal coolant temps at a quiet noise level.
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I know :p , gonna cost a lot but this will be my setup to cool my cpu and my gpu. costs as much as vapochill but cools both processors.

CPU- $150- Wintsch Labs Arctic Web Liquid Cooled 437Watt TEC Assembly
http://www.wintschlabs.com/Browse_Item_Details.asp/Item_ID/1

GPU- $200- Wintsch Labs Arctic Spider Liquid Cooled 437Watt TEC Assembly
http://www.wintschlabs.com/Browse_Item_Details.asp/Item_ID/2

PSU for cooling- $340- 2X Mean Well 600W 24V Single Output Switching Auxiliary Power Supply
http://www.frozencpu.com/psu-123.html

Radiator- $120- 1X ThermoChill HE120.3
http://www.dangerdenstore.com/product.php?productid=46&cat=15&page=1

I just got this idea that will save me some money. I'm gonna put this radiator in a freezer so that it will cool the system dramatically better. Since there is no electicity or anything involved in a radiator, ice won't affect it. What do you think?

And for the pump

Pump- $63.50- Eheim 1250 pump W/ 5/8in. OD- 1/2in. adapter.
http://www.dangerdenstore.com/product.php?productid=38

This thing moves 317gallons an hour. I'm trying to find a reservoir that is big enough. Any suggestions would be great. I also need a way to stop condensation on my graphics card. I'm getting the 7800gtx and I don't want to ruin that card. Those are pretty much my probs right now.
 
I love the looks of this thing, and want to get it for my 4400+. Only problem I have with it is the condensation problem. I dont want to end up frying everything, and until Wintsch figures out how to fix the gasket problem, I probably will hold off on buying this. Any one have news if they have fixed the problem or not?
 
I just got this idea that will save me some money. I'm gonna put this radiator in a freezer so that it will cool the system dramatically better. Since there is no electicity or anything involved in a radiator, ice won't affect it. What do you think?
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One thing to remember with peltier cooling is that every watt that the peltier consumes gets added as heat into your water cooling system. If you are talking about 2x437 watt pelts + say 250 watts in CPU+GPU, that would be about 1100 watts of heat for your radiator to dissipate. For comparisons sake, most space heaters are 1500 watts at their highest setting. Unless you are going to devote a fairly large freezer to your computer, I doubt it could handle it. You certainly couldn't store any food in the freezer and have it stay frozen.
 
I don't know if this is just me, but I can't believe they didn't use some sort of anti-freeze coolant mix. This would have to drop ambient temps slightly because the build up of ice would impede the flow of coolant.
 
I just got this idea that will save me some money. I'm gonna put this radiator in a freezer so that it will cool the system dramatically better. Since there is no electicity or anything involved in a radiator, ice won't affect it. What do you think?
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your going to for one, get condensation ALL over, including the tubes and everything if your water is running way below ambient temp. like a can of pop outta the fridge on a hot day. 2. your going to run into a shit load of problems, freezers are made to keep things cold, not keep things producing heat cold, so in terms you would understand, your going to blow out your freezer. And 3. you are not going to have nearly enough cooling power to have 1000 watts of heat in the water. basically it will overload the water with huge temps, which then will probably ruin the pelts.

just a word of warning. good luck :rolleyes:

And murph: there isnt going to be ice in the water of the system. The processor is getting the cold side of the pelt, and the waterblock is cooling the hot side, so nothing is making the water in the system cold or freeze.
 
homer is totally correct, although he omits the additional consideration that rads don't dissipate heat very well at all without fans.

all in all, you need more radiating capacity than a single 120.3 will give you.

take a serious look at the silverprop fusion HL GPU block with coldplate for use with a 120 watt, 24 volt, 40x40mm pelt, rather than the silly wintsch labs cooler.
 
alik4041, you're better off just getting a MachII and a GPU water block. I would not suggest your setup to anyone unless you're in the middle of winter and you have your radiator outside your window.

Even then you would need 2 radiators to cool off each waterblock seperately.
 
A very interesting review on and equally interesting piece of hardware. Thanks Kyle.

My concern is, after you add up all the prices of the needed parts it looks like you are awfully close to the total price of a complete Phase Change system.

For about a few dollars (maybe) more you could sustain Sub Zero temps with a lot less hassle, a much simpler install and keep the inside if your case clutter free.

Perhaps if you already were in possession of a monster water cooling rig this might make a good add-on, but as I see it, this project can get expensive really quickly if built from scratch.
 
I'm a n00b with Peltier systems but am highly interested after reading this review.

Can you simply add a GPU & Chipset block to the line as you would a regular water cooling system?

Thanks in advance. ;)
 
I don't see why not, besides the pelt on the cpu block the rest is just a "simple" high flow water cooling system.

~Adam
 
Yes, you can add in chipset and gpu waterblocks in the same line, and even have pelts on those too, if you can dissipate that much heat. The only problem is that having 400 some watts from this pelt heating up the system, that would probably make the water pretty warm, making your other blocks run warmer as well.
 
DFI Daishi said:
well, i tried to answer the part about 226 watts being a lot. i would suggest the repository of knowledge that is wikipedia, if you want to learn aout what watts are. :|
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One should not speak of the holy Wikipedia without a link. :D
 
You'd probably want at least two pumps with two seperate reservoirs and at least two good sized 2*120mm fans on each.

~Adam
 
pelt cool the GPU with a 40x40mm 120 watt, 24 volt pelt. the silverprop fusion HL GPU block is highly reccomended for this application.

pelt cool the CPU with a wintsch labs TEC solution.

don't watercool or pelt cool the NB. it is not worthwhile from a performance or noise standpoint, as a good aftermarket solution will cool well enough so as not to limit your overclock, and the lack of a NB block in the loop improves the cooling of other components. this issue is broght up and beaten down again and again in the WC forums, and the chief reason that people seem to be WCing their NBs is because they can do it, and they want to do it.

a pair of D5 pumps would be a very good option for moving enough water through the loop, with reasonable noise and convienance.

two thermochill HE120.2 rads or two thermochill PA160.1 rads wold probably do nicely for getting rid of all of that heat without obscene noise levels. the PA160.1s would do the job with what i would consider to be quite reasonable noise levels.
 
While I was typing this I started to think of the power needed to get it accomplished .. it's not impossible with a "normal" pump, it's all about tackling it different. Cathar will soon get it done .
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----- YOU BET -----
 
would you guys consider this to be a pretty economical TEC solution? I mean obviously some people wouldn't think that TECs in general are efficient, so just in comparison to other pelts.

I am only buying normal watercooling right now, but i am thinking of moving to TEC cooling later.
 
Russ said:
would you guys consider this to be a pretty economical TEC solution? I mean obviously some people wouldn't think that TECs in general are efficient, so just in comparison to other pelts.

I am only buying normal watercooling right now, but i am thinking of moving to TEC cooling later.
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economy and peltier don't belong in the same sentence.

as compared to a lower-powered 12 volt pelt solution, the TEC costs more, the PSU costs more and the opperating costs are doubled.

as compared to a straight watercooling rig, the overall equipment expenses are roughly doubled(as compared to a TOP-end rig), the chances of a catastrophic failure are an order of magnitude higher, the opperating costs are an order of magnitude higher and the overclock of the CPU doesn't go up by all that much.

honestly, at the end of the day, this is not a whole lot cheaper than phase change, with one of the few benifits being that you can include you GPU(s) in the same water loop, and get better overclocks there as well, without significantly affecting the overall budget.

pelt and phase change are there to get you to the outer limits of performance, not to get good value for your cooling dollar.
 
With that PSU you might be able to get away with 2x 350 watt ebay peltiers @ 12v and get ~500watts of cooling power. Even 1 would be more than enough for most ppl though.
 
menlatin said:
With that PSU you might be able to get away with 2x 350 watt ebay peltiers @ 12v and get ~500watts of cooling power. Even 1 would be more than enough for most ppl though.
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well, that neglects the other problem with using that PSU for pelt and computer both at once.

that PSU has the 12 V output divided up between 4 rails. two of which run the motherboard, and none of the individual rails are rated to put out enough current to reliably run a big pelt.

talking about using two pelts in relation to using a waterblock is pretty silly, since unless you are willing to go back to some very old, pretty inefficient waterblock designs. using two pelts these days means that you are looking at a chiller loop, which is much more complicated, and not what this thread is about.
 
ok i get it know .. thanks for the help


so you could run a 12V pelt on a dedicated rail but only a pelt that draws less than the max amps for that rail ...

so let say a psu has 4 12v rails and all are rated at 20 amps you could get a cpu and/or a vga pelt that is 240Watts or less .. .. right?

A 240 watt pelt will still get you well below ambient right...
 
malicious said:
A 240 watt pelt will still get you well below ambient right...
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it'll get yo below ambient, yeah, but once you are overclocked and over-volted, it won't keep you sub-zero. that's on an athlon64. on a P4, i doubt that it will get you anywhere at all.
 
DFI Daishi said:
economy and peltier don't belong in the same sentence.
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I know, that's why I said this:

Russ said:
I mean obviously some people wouldn't think that TECs in general are efficient, so just in comparison to other pelts.
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I was trying to say what you said. I guess my english classes got the better of me, it would have been clearer if I had repeated the word economical. I was just wondering that IF you were looking to pelt cool, would you get this or something else?
 
Russ said:
I was trying to say what you said. I guess my english classes got the better of me, it would have been clearer if I had repeated the word economical. I was just wondering that IF you were looking to pelt cool, would you get this or something else?
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well, i can honestly say that my sister got all of the language skills in our generation, however i feel that what i responded to you with was a reasonably complete answer, in that it included some info on what economical might be taken to mean.

i was halfway through writing a LONG post on this subject, however it now occures to me that this subject has been discussed a bit previously, and if you really want to get into it, we should start a new thread, and you should read some of the previous threads on this subject.
 
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