I’ll try the Argyll steps next, I didn’t do anything with them first time round.
Graphics card is a 980 Ti.
I want those inky blacks but it’s still day time here and the room has white walls!
Hello, I have one question before i post my results. Do I have to make wpb for 6500k and 5000k if I use only 9300k? I just clicked OK on steps with that.
My monitor is Dell P1130, it has some addiontal steps not contained in guide like contrast_min.
After adjustments monitor sets thier brightness and contrast to 50/85 below 50 i loose black details.
So it's completely normal to have crushed low black level without gamma adjustments? I'll try it thanks.
Isn't 70 cd/m2 too low? I have contrast at default 85 but on 100 isn't much difference.
And it's strange for me to have 50 brightness all the time when before i have to make it on 0 to have real black.
If you have no way of adjusting the gamma curve of the input device, then your best option is to set the G2 level so it's not super dark black.
I'm considering doing my first WinDAS calibration on a Dell P992, and this is my hangup. I have to aim for near 2.2 gamma, because I use game consoles with my monitor, and I'm not so sure custom LUT's will work with DX12 and Vulkan games, since those API's are "closer to the metal" and might ignore any color correction at the OS level.
Currently, if I drop my brightness enough to get a deep black, my gamma is at about 2.35 (according to the test image on lagom.nl). Is the general consensus that this will always be my monitor's gamma when I drop brightness close enough to get true black, even after a WinDAS G2 adjustment?
If so, I'm wondering if purposefully setting incorrect, higher values for the 30IRE step could help me lower gamma slightly? That seems like the only step in the WinDAS procedure that isn't either maxiumum black or maximum white. Or is one point of adjustment too rough to give me a better gamma curve?
You're overthinking it - big time. Adjust the G2 in the light-controlled environment that you use it, and hit all of the targets. Once you're done, you should have enough brightness range to get the blacks as inky as you want without sacrificing too much gamma. Unfortunately, if you're running the CRT "raw" (no gamma adjustment) then there will be some give and take. I've personally found 2.4 gamma to be just fine in a light-controlled setting. So long as you can clearly see the bottom IRE's then you have nothing to worry about. My two cents.
I trust jbl's experience here over mine, since I've not done any real experimentation on this front.
It's a good question though. I'm pretty sure there's a systematic way to achieve a desired target gamma with hardware calibration alone. You could figure it out through modeling of the involved currents, or you could generate some insights through experimentation. And yea having brightness adjustment available post hardware adjustment opens up possibilities.
Cool thing is that it's straightforward to measure gamma, so you can get quick feedback on any adjustments you do.
I haven't really "experimented" perse. I just know that when you do the WPB procedure, you end up with a pretty decent range of adjustments when you're all said and done. Especially on the CR1 chassis models, which default you to 50 brightness. The FW900 may be a little more restrictive though as it defaults you to 31 brightness when you're done. So maybe you'd do it a little "darker", so to speak. After all, you could always turn the brightness up.
I did WPB for Dell P1130 but everything looks way too reddish. I have to set G2 to 86 to have real black, isn't it too low? I don't have much info about this monitor. Can it have resistor on G2?
When I have to adjust G2 the image (when g2 is too high) isn't gray like in normal crts but reddish/violet. Maybe that's the problem?
Thank you for information. I didn't do 10IRE black check, but it's not that important at this moment. Problem is it too reddish in middle colors. Note that my Dell has 30k hours of work. I'll check if resistors were replaced at first.
Hello, I have a Sony GDM-F520 which i'm trying to correct. A purely black screen has a red hue, turning down the brightness in the OSD to get a good black level crushes the dark areas in films and games. It also a red/purple hue over the monitor, especially on dark areas. Could I do both of these through a colour profile or OSD adjustments, or should I do a windas calibration? I have a i1 Pro colorimeter.
The monitor is connected to my computer through a Vention usb c to vga adaptor (model number: CGMHA) and a RTX 2070. Is it possible to do this guide with the Vention usb c to vga adaptor?
Highly recommend WinDAS calibration, and yes, you should be fine with the Vention adaptor!