Will a pcpower 510express be enough for SLI?

G

gpitpitan

Limp Gawd
Joined
Jun 15, 2004
Messages
248
Anyone think this could work? Only planning on running the dual 6800'gts with an OCed athlon 64 3200, a single dvd burner, koolance exos, 1 gig of ram and a single maxtor HD, 3 80mm fans and a cold cathode.

I really cant stomach paying upwards of 300 or was it 400+ on the announced psu's from pcpower for special SLI setups, just seems like overkill.

But i the price for one of these (about 229) is just right.

Shot them an email but wanted to see what any of u guys thought.
 
two SLi 6800GT's dont mean you need 300Wx2 of power, as long as the 12v rail is stable it should be fine. the nvidia SLI motherboards also include a 4 pin molex connector that goes directly into the motherbaord to power the PCI-E x16 slots for added stability, kinda like a 12v 4pin line for you video cards/ addons
 
Ok, I'll have to bite....

PCP&C does custom jobs. Has anyone gotten one done? I've gnashed my teeth around until I've finally convinced myself to shell out the dough for one of them because its as _close_ to what I want that I can get "off the shelf" and still be a great PSU. I was about to go X-connect, but the glam versus nuts and bolt reviews have me worried.

So, I am literally minutes away from buying it from frozencpu because of the customer service responses (I want quick shipping) and this custom options page keeps lurking.

I thought it had some sort of PFC. Why is it on the custom options list?

Ok, I guess the real meat of my questions are these:
How long does it add to the delivery time?
How much does it cost?

Can anyone list their custom options and tell us how long delivery and price difference?
 
Disclaimer, Friday Night Post, post-party, pre-sleep, not responsible for rambling, of spelling


1st in the desktop category
PCP&C blows everything else out of the water
(in rackmount redundant and N+1 Zippy\ Emacs are widely regarded, and have in the past and potentially still manufacture for PCP&C, along with FSP Group, to spec and designs specified by PCP&C)
if they couldnt substatially outperform everything else youd be insane to pay that much
IMO its a wise investment

to wit aside from the amps above
Transient Response\Output Regulation of 1%, DM PARD (Differential Mode Periodic and Random Deviation) otherwise known as AC Ripple at 10mV for the main rails is far better than spec (ATX12V v1.3 or v2.01) typically seen at 50V > 120mV in all other supplys Im aware of

solely as a note a PCP&C is an EPS12V or ATX12V v2.01 compatible power supply
not strickly compliant having a single +12V rail, the fact it is such a tightly regulated rail in comparision to most supplies generally makes up for any isolation value youd see with multiple rail (EPS12V 3 to 4 rails ATX12V v2.01 2 rails)

if you want flash have at it

the very first thing I did with my 510 AG (AG designat5ion includes an AGP Pro connector) was void the warranty by poping the top and drilling and tapping holes to mount it in a 4U rackmount

you can even improve the PCP&C if you have a mind to
first you can sleeve your cables, but intead of just plastic or mylar mesh
use a material you can ground (with an additional mesh over it if you like), the best (but overkilll and Ive never seen braid just tape) would be url=http://digilander.libero.it/paeng/what_mu_metal.htm]mu-metal[/url], but tinfoil works nearly as well or dozens of other EMI Sheilding tapes hell tinfoil will work, with the proper tools you can customize and even pre-form your wiring harness (custom length, curveture ect) , you can also emply trick gold plated pins for the connectors and solder in addition to crimping and there is absolutely nothing special about the case but be adviced, when you alter a grounded Steel Case with a window or use a plex case, you defeat a very effective EMI sheilding strategy, however, to block EMI doesnt require a solid case, simply a grid small enough to block the frequency your dealing with see > Faraday Cage so with a little forthought you can replicated pretty much anything you see

Im sure to be pooh [poohd regarding interference from EMI fields
but in truth a large part of that has to do with the inverse square law
there is never a corruption problem till there is a corruption problem :p

some additional considerations in modding either the cables or the enclosure
1st by adding interfaces to the supply like the X-connect the quality of the contact has the potential to degrade the power delivery by adding resistance, not that in the larger picture it would dent the amps typically seen on a PCP&C turbo cool
but just so your aware
http://www.dansdata.com/top686p6.htm
One popularly quoted nominal current rating for 18AWG wire (translation: I looked it up somewhere once, and I've mentioned it myself at least twice, so that's close enough) is nine amps. But you can safely push 16 amps through cheap PVC-insulated 18AWG - the infallible Pocket Ref thinks 18 amps - if it's got a bit of air cooling, as cable bundles in a PC case do.

With that kind of current flowing, wire and connector resistance may start to matter even if the device being powered isn't terribly finicky.

You'll have go a pretty long way to find a PSU cable that's having to deliver anything like that much current, though. A stacked PC (as opposed to a weedy old Celeron box) may manage to draw 200 watts or more in constant running, but that power's split between a whole lot of actual wires inside the PC. The standard ATX plug, for instance, has three 3.3V wires and four 5Vs (not counting the 5VSB standby power conductor), and seven earths.

A GeForce 6800 Ultra that's working hard in 3D mode is plausibly alleged to suck down something in the order of five amps from the 12V rail, and 3.5 amps from 5V, even through a multimeter.

Let's say you've got such a card on the end of an unremarkable 60 centimetres of 18AWG PSU-cable wire, and that you've disregarded Nvidia's warnings and connected the two four pin receptacles on the back of your 6800U to a couple of plugs that're both on the end of that one cable, instead of to the two separate cables that're meant to be used to deliver the foaming torrents of electrons your questionably necessary bleeding-edge board requires.

Well, 60cm of 18AWG wire should have little more than 0.01 ohms of resistance. The "Molex" plugs on the end, though, can be expected to contribute another 0.1 ohms or so, per dodgy hard-to-plug-yet-often-far-harder-to-unplug pin. That may not sound like much, but it's enough to cause similar cheap nylon-housed crimp-pin connectors to weld themselves solid when they're used in very high current applications, like radio controlled models.

With two "Molex" plugs in parallel, you're looking at an aggregate 0.05 ohms per rail. Add the tiny wire resistance and you get 0.06 or so. Certainly less than 0.1 ohms.

In Physics Experiment Land, 3.5 amps at 5V means a load of about 1.4 ohms (because voltage equals current times resistance). Similarly, 5 amps at 12V means 2.4 ohms.

Here in the real world, those current figures were made with extra resistance in-line already, so you can break out your own test gear and then hit yo' algebra pipe and figure out more exact numbers for yourself if you like. I'm not bothering, because all I need is a ballpark figure. Nought-point-nought-six ohms plus a tiddly bit more isn't going to perturb the results much, but it might add up to a drop of as much 6% on the five volt line, which means around 0.3 volts.

This, to remind you, only applies to high current devices like a monster video card, or many modern CPUs. As I've explored before, a consumer hard drive's unlikely to draw more than about 15 watts, and that's only when it's spinning up. You can draw a lot more if you're fooling with Peltiers or wiring up giant arrays of fans, but those components just work a little worse if they're not getting full voltage; they don't crash.

It's far from certain that a few tenths of a volt less on +5V, and a smaller (proportionally) voltage drop on +12V, will actually have any ill effects. Note that the abovementioned Spode's Abode piece doesn't mention the extra in-line resistance of their meter and its own skinny copper leads causing any stability problems.

But, y'know, it's measurable. It's not zillionths of a volt.
Click to expand...

and, to actually address your questions
time delay from PCP&C depends on the customization
a simple custom wire harness if I recall correctly added a week to a few members orders, but that varies, and so does the cost, it aint all that cheap to have thenm do it, and as delinuiated above, you given care can actually do better, other options, yiou would obviously have them do

note spelling mistakes that where caught where corrected, but at this point the hell with it :p
 
Bullitt said:
Ok, I'll have to bite....

PCP&C does custom jobs. Has anyone gotten one done? I've gnashed my teeth around until I've finally convinced myself to shell out the dough for one of them because its as _close_ to what I want that I can get "off the shelf" and still be a great PSU. I was about to go X-connect, but the glam versus nuts and bolt reviews have me worried.

So, I am literally minutes away from buying it from frozencpu because of the customer service responses (I want quick shipping) and this custom options page keeps lurking.

I thought it had some sort of PFC. Why is it on the custom options list?

Ok, I guess the real meat of my questions are these:
How long does it add to the delivery time?
How much does it cost?

Can anyone list their custom options and tell us how long delivery and price difference?
Click to expand...

I have a PCP&C PSU with a custom harness- damn good unit.

Custom_PSU_W.jpg


Big

I got it in something like 10 days.

http://www.hardforum.com/showthread.php?t=775056&page=1
 
the 510 is warranted to run a dual cpu system with 12 hard drives plugged in. Yes, I think it will run SLI :p
 
jen4950 said:
I have a PCP&C PSU with a custom harness- damn good unit.
...
I got it in something like 10 days.
Click to expand...


Ahh nice. Ok, that answers my question. 10 days and ~$50 isnt bad for a custom job. I'm sold. I really wanted just a 2nd pci-x vid card adapter and a quieter fan (by the specs). I'll bite on the extra cash and keep the warranty :)
 
as they say if your looking at custom lengths (likely an additional charge)
measure twice, cut once ;)
 
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