Will a MOBO beep (post error) if there is no CPU 4/8pin power connected ?

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Plainman

Limp Gawd
Joined
Aug 7, 2017
Messages
171
Hi Guys,

I need to know if my new motherboard is dead / faulty.

I have assembled my new rig with only PSU and Processor+CpuFan In a Corsair Cabinet.

Theres no post beep (miniature speaker is connected). Shouldn't the Mobo beep if theres no RAM or CPU power is not connected ? The motherboard powers up, its led lights glow (friggin bells and whistles that i dont need) and the CPU and case fan is running. NO DISPLAY shows thru VGA and there not a single beep even. Shouldnt it beep that theres no ram or no power connected to the 4/8 pin cpu power connector.

OR is it that only if theres power to the CPU connector will the BIOS beep for missing ram etc ?

PS : Unable to connect the CPU power right away because the damn connector from the PSU is short and wont reach the socket. Apart from this the socket is 8 pin whereas the PSU plug for CPU power is only 4pin. Like i needed some additional challenges. SO it will take me sometime to go get the extension plug or adapter for 4pin to 8pin. But irrespective of that why isnt there BIOS beeps ?

I have not connected any other peripherals other than what is mentioned above. NO ram, graphics card, HDD, SSD, optical drive etc.
 
The CPU needs power in order for you to get any beep codes from the motherboard. Once thats accomplished, you should get beep codes for no ram, no video, etc.. If you dont get beep codes when the CPU has power, make sure you reseat the CPU and also make sure you know the CPU is good (put it in another motherboard or take CPU from working system). If you know for sure the CPU is good, then at that point its fair to say the motherboard is bad.
 
OK then i guess maybe nothing is wrong with the Mobo. As in maybe its not beeping and there is no display because i havent connected the cpu power connector ?
 
You were right. Thank You !

I got the extended 4 pin cable and plugged into the cpu atx power socket on the mobo and it gave the post beep code for missing ram. Plugged in my ram and it booted instantly and i could make bios settings.

For the knowledge of other newbies who might stumble upon this thread. As Kirbyrj said, even BOIS post error codes don't sound unless the CPU power plug is also plugged in from your PSU. Also ensure your motherboard has an inbuilt buzzer. If not get one from a comp hardware store as they are super cheap. Without that you wont know if its beeping or not. And if your PSU's cpu power plug like mine had only 4 pins and your motherboard CPU power socket has 8 ports, fret not, as you can plug in the 4 pin plug into the 8 pin socket. My plug had notches/shapes to ensure you can only plug it in only one way. So pay attention to the male plug pins shapes and match it with the socket and your good to go. This will ensure you plugged correctly into the first 4 or 2nd four pin holes on the 8 pin socket as your motherboard might require.
 
For the love of god i just couldnt install windows 7 thru USB with this damn motherboard. I spent 8 hours doing the same thing with modifications from different sources on the net. Even GIGABYTE windows 7 installation tool - DIDNT WORK. I get upto the setup screen and then SETUP IS STARTING and then the error message A REQUIRED CD/DVD drive device driver is missing. 100s of times. Same result. Used RUFUS to make a bootable USB with win 7 from my original disk. Same result. Its able to see the USB drive and get to the stage of setup after windows asks date type etc.
 
Problem is that the DVD drive doesnt seem to be working. It was an unused drive that i stored for a few years and tried using in this build. I have ordered a brand new drive but that will take 4 days to arrive. Meanwhile my 10 day return period on a faulty board or processor etc will end. Thats why im trying to install windows 7 from a usb.
 
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Make sure you dont have anything overclocked and that you have the right memory settings setup. You can get all sorts of crazy weird install errors when your system is unstable for one reason or another. It could also mean you have a corrupt ISO. See if you can get an MD5 or SHA1 hash to make sure your ISO is good. Also make sure the system you run RUFUS on to make the USB is also stable. While I am thinking of it, make sure you eject the USB drive from the RUFUS machine too. Just trying to eliminate all variables here..
 
H2R2P2 said:
Make sure you dont have anything overclocked and that you have the right memory settings setup. You can get all sorts of crazy weird install errors when your system is unstable for one reason or another. It could also mean you have a corrupt ISO. See if you can get an MD5 or SHA1 hash to make sure your ISO is good. Also make sure the system you run RUFUS on to make the USB is also stable. While I am thinking of it, make sure you eject the USB drive from the RUFUS machine too. Just trying to eliminate all variables here..
Click to expand...

To be very honest here. I dont know anything about overclocking. I just put together the system (which itself is a big thing for me since i dont consider myself an expert) as is and didnt touch any settings other than try to boot and load the operating system.

Yes i very diligently use the eject thumb drive function always before pulling out a drive. Will it be because the power supply is underpowered ? Its a 450w PSU. But i have nothing but the Mobo + Proc + RAM installed. 4 HDDs & 1 optical and one SSD for the OS. Thats all. No graphics card or any other peripheral.

If needed i can unplug all the hdds and leave only the SSD and try (but i dont think this installation error is related to that). Will however wait for advice here and do things accordingly.

Also i tried putting in a perfect new DVD drive from this Desktop which im typing from into the new build and the dvd drive wouldnt eject, made funny motor noises, keeps on blinking, and when i press the eject button there was no response. Because i thought if the DVD drive works i can install the OS from optical disc and be done with this Thumb Drive problem.
 
What motherboard and CPU are you using? How many ram modules do you have installed? What brand power supply do you have?

450W is on the small side, but it could be OK depending on the answers to the questions above. If you want to try something in the meantime (rather than wait for responses) try unplugging the mechanical drives from the power supply and install Windows again (I assume the SSD is for your OS).
 
Processor is i3-6100 / Motherboard - GIGABYTE - GA-B250M-DS3H / Kingston Fury 8GB DDR4, 2400mhz Ram installed, Single Rank Type -1 Stick.

PSU is a Zebronics brand. Nothing great i know. But if its surely the PSU then i dont mind buying another. So i want to first try with all drives disconnected. So only a Mobo+Proc+Ram with 1 ssd and a bootable thumb drive should be ok with this PSU. This PSU is also new, so dont want to invest in another 100usd and then face the same problem. Id feel pretty daft.
 
I have never heard of that power supply brand. I took a look at the specs of a couple they have listed on their website and its rather vague but from what info was there, It looks like you are OK on the power supply side given the parts you are using. The most important aspect of a power supply to a computer is the voltage regulation. If there is substantial voltage droop (especially on the 3.3v rails) then it could be related to your instability. You can check this in the BIOS/UEFI but what kinda sucks is you will only be able to tell what it is at the load your motherboard runs at when in BIOS/UEFI. It does actually put some stress/load on the CPU, motherboard, power supply, and ram though so its better than nothing.

All in all though, I dont see anything wrong here. While it technically is possible your power supply is to blame, the odds of this actually being the case is very slim. In my 25+ years of building computers and using them every day durin gthat time for work, I have only had a power supply be the actual source of the problem ONE time. And it was easy to tell because it caught on fire internally and blew.

If disconnecting the drives made a difference, then I would try another power supply. If not, then I would concentrate on making sure the CPU heatsink is seated and you have a good copy of Windows on your USB drive..
 
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rive22 said:
Unzip these drivers without the folder into the root directory of the install boot drive and try installing again. Also make sure no other drives are connected except for the drive you're installing the OS on since Win7 likes to sometimes put OS dependent crap on other drives.

http://download.gigabyte.eu/FileList/Driver/mb_driver_intel_bootdisk_irst_64_200series.zip

http://www.gigabyte.us/Motherboard/GA-B250M-DS3H-rev-10#support-dl
Click to expand...


Thanks for the links rive22 !

I have installed Win7 since i managed to get the dvd drive to work. Was just a faulty molex power connector. But i want to work this out also so that in the future i can install it from thumb drive. Hence i will try this but i dont know how to PUT these drivers into that image. Im using RUFUS and it only accepts the main ISO image of windows. How do i slip these drivers into that operation ?
 
H2R2P2 said:
I have never heard of that power supply brand. I took a look at the specs of a couple they have listed on their website and its rather vague but from what info was there, It looks like you are OK on the power supply side given the parts you are using. The most important aspect of a power supply to a computer is the voltage regulation. If there is substantial voltage droop (especially on the 3.3v rails) then it could be related to your instability. You can check this in the BIOS/UEFI but what kinda sucks is you will only be able to tell what it is at the load your motherboard runs at when in BIOS/UEFI. It does actually put some stress/load on the CPU, motherboard, power supply, and ram though so its better than nothing.

All in all though, I dont see anything wrong here. While it technically is possible your power supply is to blame, the odds of this actually being the case is very slim. In my 25+ years of building computers and using them every day durin gthat time for work, I have only had a power supply be the actual source of the problem ONE time. And it was easy to tell because it caught on fire internally and blew.

If disconnecting the drives made a difference, then I would try another power supply. If not, then I would concentrate on making sure the CPU heatsink is seated and you have a good copy of Windows on your USB drive..
Click to expand...

You most certainly wouldnt have heard of it. Its a 'not so big' brand. Just ok quality. Not bad. But not good either. :).
 
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Plainman said:
Thanks for the links rive22 !

I have installed Win7 since i managed to get the dvd drive to work. Was just a faulty molex power connector. But i want to work this out also so that in the future i can install it from thumb drive. Hence i will try this but i dont know how to PUT these drivers into that image. Im using RUFUS and it only accepts the main ISO image of windows. How do i slip these drivers into that operation ?
Click to expand...

Just drop the individual files directly onto the USB drive, in the very first directory. No worries about loading them into the image. Next time when you install from USB it should work. The drivers I linked are for 64bit OS. Also make sure set AHCI in the BIOS.

For the PSU, a name brand 300watt will be enough. Like Corsair, Seasonic, EVGA, Antec, Silverstone, etc. For headroom it will depend on what video card you plan to get, but a 650w would cover even a 1080 ti and a 4/8 thread CPU if you ever decide to drop one in down the road. The thing about generic PSU is they are often over-rated and use low quality internals so I wouldn't put anything heavy on one. But good name brand are very solid.
 
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My windows install seems to be fine except for the device manager showing exclamtion marks for these three items...


1. Base System Device !
2. PCI Memory Controller !
3. SM Bus Controller !
 
rive22 said:
For the PSU, a name brand 300watt will be enough. Like Corsair, Seasonic, EVGA, Antec, Silverstone, etc. For headroom it will depend on what video card you plan to get, but a 650w would cover even a 1080 ti and a 4/8 thread CPU if you ever decide to drop one in down the road. The thing about generic PSU is they are often over-rated and use low quality internals so I wouldn't put anything heavy on one. But good name brand are very solid.
Click to expand...

You are correct, name brands will really supply the advertised watts or at least very close to that. The local ones that say 450w will actually deliver only about 300w.

My windows install seems to be fine except for the device manager showing exclamtion marks for these three items...

1. Base System Device !
2. PCI Memory Controller !
3. SM Bus Controller !
 
You'll need to install the other drivers from the second link I posted to fix those.
 
Hi Rive,

But even before the motherboard arrived i downloaded these very same drivers listed under support/downloads for my specific motherboard. Those were the ones i installed. Some drivers such as SATA RAID drivers i did not install because theres no runnable .exe file within.

Still im faced with the above 3 exclamation marks.
 
rive22 said:
You did the chipset drivers? http://download.gigabyte.eu/FileList/Driver/mb_driver_chipset_intel_200series.zip
Click to expand...


Yes i did install the USB3 drivers & chipset drivers FIRST. Then LAN drivers, Graphics drivers, Ethernet drivers, Dot Net Drivers. As i mentioned SATA RAID drivers folders didnt have a valid .exe file to run so i skipped that one. But i dont mind restoring (yes i did make an image of only the OS install) and then retrying with the ones you have given above. Though i also downloaded all drivers from the official product page.
 
UPDATE !

Sorted out the 2 of the above.

Only PCI SIMPLE COMMUNICATIONS CONTROLLER is now pending.

The 1st 2 were sorted out by using the original disk which came with the motherboard. Ironic, because usually we are of the notion that the website will always have the latest drivers.
So after using the CD to manually install the chipset and lan now the only one showing an exclamation mark is this SIMPLE COMMUNICATIONS CONTROLLER.

Some 30 minutes later to the above....SORTED PCI SIMPLE COMMUNICATIONS CONTROLLER

The PCI SIMPLE COMMUNICATIONS CONTROLLER is handled by the INTEL MANAGEMENT ENGINE COMPONENTS (aka IMEI) once that was installed the PCI Simple Communications Controller driver got installed and now there are no exclamation mark alerts in device manager. Mentioning this just for others who might have the same problem to understand a little easily. Now all drivers seem to be installed and no exclamation marks in the device driver list.

Thanks Rive and to everyone here who came forward to help.
 
On a side note, i haven't installed the REALTEK HD AUDIO driver, Is it really important other than adding additional icons and an interface with audio ambience settings etc.

Is it necessary to install this for 5.1 audio or HDMI audio to go thru the HDMI cable ?
Because i have a Yamaha Amplifier that will be thrown into the setup. So i don't need decoding of 5.1 to be done at the system level since the amp would decode the 5.1 signal from the HDMI cable.

Will installing this help connect Bluetooth stereo headphones ?
 
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