Why do all my mice end up double-clicking on their own?

SamuraiInBlack

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So it seems that no matter what mouse I buy anymore, after awhile, they all eventually end up with a double-click reaction even when I do a single click. Alternatively, at times the click will have no response at all.

This has now happened with some Logitech mouse I can't remember the model of, the Corsair Vengeance M60, and now the Razer DeathAdder is the latest victim of this behavior.

Is it just me? Does anyone else get this issue? Is there something I am doing wrong? Something I should be doing differently? Or am I just that unknowingly rough on the left mouse button?

Do I just need a better mouse? Something with more durable buttons?
 

doubletake

Gawd
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Apr 27, 2013
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Are you sure you don't just have fat ham hands that are exceeding the load capacity your peripheral's build materials? Do you tend to explode in fits of rage when you lose in games and violently click or slam on the buttons?

Or maybe you just have bad luck.
 

Absalom

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I've gone through 4 mice (Razer Diamondback and 3 generations of DeathAdders) in the last 10 years and all inevitably end in switch failure. Since a mouse button switch is mechanical, as with all things mechanical, they will fail at some point. In my case, they tend to fail around 2 or 3 years of constant use. Sadly, there's no electronic log to track how many clicks it takes before failure. Not all switches are the same. Some claim 20 million clicks, while others less.

What's luck, in my experience, is to get a switch that actually lasts what it's rated at. I think it's all marketing. A 20 million click rated switch can fail just as easily as a 2 million click switch.

Of course, you can replace your switches if you're feeling up to using your soldering skills.

I've found that by the time my mouse fails there's a newer model out - so I end up replacing it. Funny how that works. It makes you wonder if mice aren't designed to fail?
 
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SamuraiInBlack

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Are you sure you don't just have fat ham hands that are exceeding the load capacity your peripheral's build materials? Do you tend to explode in fits of rage when you lose in games and violently click or slam on the buttons?

Or maybe you just have bad luck.

Going to go with the latter, as I don't rage over gaming and my hand stays elevated off the mouse itself. Last I knew my fingers don't weigh 40 pounds each so...going to go with they don't exceed load capacity. I click-spam depending on the game, but that's about it.

I've found that by the time my mouse fails there's a newer model out - so I end up replacing it. Funny how that works. It makes you wonder if mice aren't designed to fail?

I've noticed this as well. I'd try my hand at replacing the switches, but I wouldn't even know where to look for some "heavy duty" switches that are built for taking a beating, which is apparently the kind I need.
 

SvenBent

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only mouse I've ever had dobuelclic kwas razer deahadder. but those was nototiros for devleoping that problem and we received a lot of those for rma with that problem

I click-spam depending on the game, but that's about it.

Now i dont know how much you click psam. but if i is an excessive amout in a game you might want to stop doing it. and just keep the mouse buttong down and look into autohotkey to make a rapid fire mouse button instead.
 

Matthew Kane

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Because most mice nowadays are garbage. Logitech gaming mice seem to fare bit better with abusive spam clicking and Razer is a no go.

Still rocking a G9 and MX518 here for nearly 10 years for the latter and no issues aside from bit of wear and I've thrown the MX518 around in fits of rage, thrown it at my last 24inch monitor only the MX518 survived.

If the mouse has Omron switches then it should take the abuse better than the Chinese generic garbage a lot of mice use.
 

Spartacus

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I use the Kensington Orbit optical trackball and I tend to kill the switches in those after a couple of years.
Some of them I've had replaced under warranty and others I've just fixed myself.

Once I have two bad ones, I pull the right button switch (it gets less use) out of one of them and use it to
replace the left switch in the other. Then I have a working one for a while again.

At least they are pretty cheap to begin with.

.
 

Zepher

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I've had plenty of mice do this, all of them were Logitech as that is the only brand I buy. Logitech has replaced all of them that has had this issue and after I get my replacement I fix the faulty one by re-tensioning the spring on the microswitch.
When you re-tension the spring, make sure it doesn't pop off as it's a pain to get back on since it is so tiny. it's not a coiled spring, more like a leaf spring on a truck.
 

-PK-

[H]ard|Gawd
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My programmable CoolerMaster mouse had that issue after a couple years. It has an adjustable button response rate between 0.25ms to 32ms. I had to increase the delay back to the stock setting to prevent the clicks from responding twice and to fix drag operations.
 

SamuraiInBlack

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The double clicking has finally driven me batshit with aggravation, so I ran out and picked up this Logitech mouse for 65 bucks at Best Buy today:
http://gaming.logitech.com/en-us/product/g502-proteus-spectrum-rgb-gaming-mouse

Not a bad mouse at all so far. So far it seems like a solid replacement for the 2013 DeathAdder.

I did some reading on how mouse switches operate and the difference between the Chinese and Japanese Omron switches, mainly this guide here:
https://geekhack.org/index.php?topic=81743.0

Razer claims to use Omron switches for the DeathAdder on their site but don't give a click rating. The G502 is rated for 20 million clicks. I can definitely feel a difference in switch/actuator quality between this and the DeathAdder. The G502's switch is an all or nothing activation when I press down, whereas the DeathAdder has a much softer switch, making it feel almost pressure sensitive in a way. This may be due to Razer's claim of designing the mouse buttons to be hair-trigger sensitive, but I really think it's from using crappy Chinese Omron switches (I opened mine up and found two. Model# D2FC-F-7N, with a 10M click rating) instead of the higher spec Japanese ones.

For as much as these companies expect us to pay for a premium/gaming mouse, they could at least use the Japanese Omron switches.
 
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Johnx64

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Happens to me. My last few mice have all done it. MS intellimouse 3.0 or something. Wireless MS mouse 5000 or some shit and then a corsair m60.
 

vegeta535

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Shit is made of plastic so it will wear out. You can't expected shit that have movable parts to last for 10+ years. A mouse normally last me 4-5 year before I replace a mouse.
 

SvenBent

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You can fix dblt click issues by incraese de debounche time. i can make you some software to do it. as a patch solution.
I can put in a Turbo click feature as well if you need that.
 

SamuraiInBlack

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Shit is made of plastic so it will wear out. You can't expected shit that have movable parts to last for 10+ years. A mouse normally last me 4-5 year before I replace a mouse.

That is a very acceptable amount of time between mice.

I am destroying these things within 6 months to a year. The last mouse that lasted me that long (+3 year time frame) was Logitech's dual optical mouse. After that was the MX518, then the G5. Everything after the G5 regardless of brand, has had some kind of defect or issue come up within a year after purchasing, the most common being the double click of death.
 

Zepher

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You can fix dblt click issues by incraese de debounche time. i can make you some software to do it. as a patch solution.
I can put in a Turbo click feature as well if you need that.
it's not just the double clicking issue, it also causes the click and hold and release, meaning if you click and drag, it will release even while you are holding down the button, so increasing the double click won't solve the other issue that is caused by it.
 

SamuraiInBlack

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it's not just the double clicking issue, it also causes the click and hold and release, meaning if you click and drag, it will release even while you are holding down the button, so increasing the double click won't solve the other issue that is caused by it.

It also sometimes makes it so that an actual click doesn't register at all. So it'll either double click, not click at all, or do an early release mid drag.

I am keeping the DeathAdder for the time being. I would like to experiment with swapping out the crappy Chinese switches for Japanese ones and see if it would net anything. I anticipate it not being an exact fit, but I would like to try and see if it's doable. It's a backup mouse for me at this point anyway so it's no big loss if I end up trashing it.
 

Zepher

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It also sometimes makes it so that an actual click doesn't register at all. So it'll either double click, not click at all, or do an early release mid drag.

I am keeping the DeathAdder for the time being. I would like to experiment with swapping out the crappy Chinese switches for Japanese ones and see if it would net anything. I anticipate it not being an exact fit, but I would like to try and see if it's doable. It's a backup mouse for me at this point anyway so it's no big loss if I end up trashing it.
I just retensioned the spring on mine and they worked for months to years after I did it. I am not sure if retensioning actually fixes it or if it is just me fiddling with the switch, but it's always worked after I was done.
I have an MX1000 that I fixed, MX Revolution, Performance MX, and a G700.

Oh, the worst thing with the double click is when you are CTRL selecting a bunch of files and then it double clicks and they all open.
And also when you are dragging files and it lets go over the wrong folder or drive.
 

Johnx64

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I'm sad. Sometime in january I threw away my intellimouse 3.0 because one click would result in either no click or a double click. I've never used a more perfect mouse. It was sitting around for years so I finally got rid of it. My Corsair M60 started doing the same thing so I started using a small cheap mouse I had in a drawer. I recently was going to purchase a new mouse but reading the common questions and answers someone mentioned replacing the microswitch on them that most mice use the same one. Sure enough the m60 uses an OMRON D2FC-F-7N micro switch. It's been 24 hours since I replaced it and works flawless now. Basic soldering is all it took.


QTY 6 OMRON D2FC-F-7N Micro Switch Microswitch Switches for RAZER Logitech APPLE MS Mouse

SA)
 
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Skull_Angel

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I just retensioned the spring on mine and they worked for months to years after I did it. I am not sure if retensioning actually fixes it or if it is just me fiddling with the switch, but it's always worked after I was done.
I have an MX1000 that I fixed, MX Revolution, Performance MX, and a G700.

Oh, the worst thing with the double click is when you are CTRL selecting a bunch of files and then it double clicks and they all open.
And also when you are dragging files and it lets go over the wrong folder or drive.

I do this myself if/when double-clicking appears. Always seems to do the trick and it's fairly easy to do (just be very gentle with the leafs). Recently did it with a cheap ass mouse at work since the boss is also a cheap ass and I CBA to buy something for (the goon at) work.
 

Brian_B

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Used to be I would go through a mouse about every 6mo-year on switches, until I finally got a G5 when they first came out. That lasted me a good while - 3 years or so maybe, until the mouse wheel went out (I tend to fidget with it when bored, so can't really blame it).

Then it was back to every year or so, but it's not switches for the most part now. Now it's the rubber grip crap they put on the sides of the mouse, it gets all nasty, I can't clean it with anything, and it takes on the consistency of snot. Has happened to a Death Adder and a G504 (I think). Gets to where I can't stand to touch em, so I pitch em. Went with a Corsair this time around, no rubber, although it could certainly stand a good cleaning.

Would be nice to have a keyboard/mouse I could just chuck in the dishwasher to santize it every now and then, and still have it be comfortable to use. That is one nice thing about tablets - you can just Windex them off and they are pretty clean. Mouse and keyboard... not so much.
 
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