Which speakers to use with sub in 2.1?

D

DarkDubzs

Limp Gawd
Joined
Jan 3, 2014
Messages
354
Sorry if the title makes no sense, its 3am and I've been looking up sound cards, how to connect subs to speakers, how to connect 2.1 systems to sound cards, looking for speakers, etc.
Anyways, I want to get the Dayton Audio SUB-1200 subwoofer, but I have been looking for a decent pair of bookshelf speakers to use with the sub. I want the speakers to be powered/active to avoid having to use an amp (unless the sound card handles that already) or any other problems. I know for the price I am going for, they will not be amazing, but I am confident they will be much better than any $10 desktop speakers I've ever heard. Initially I wanted the Swans M10s because I love their looks and size, they were right in my budget, and they looked pretty easy to setup, but now I see that I cannot find them for sale anywhere, not amazon, eBay, retailers, vendors, etc. So now i have to find another pair of speakers in my budget. I am a basshead, so I know the sub is going to be necessary for the large bass I want, so please don't tell me that for two or three hundred dollars I can get bookshelf speakers with a 6 inch subwoofer in them, because I know that, and they are just not for me, I need a separate sub for the lows.

So can anyone recommend a/some set(s) of speakers that I can connect this sub to and ultimately from my pc, the sound card will be a Sound Blaster Z? Both speakers under $100 please. I'm not expecting anything super HIFI for like audiophiles... the best speakers I've heard were a Logitech Z313, so my expectations are just to be better, at best, than those $30 speakers.

Thank you in advance!
 
Paradigm Atom from Ebay or similar, IMO. You could also probably still find something like Polk Monitor 30s or T15s for cheap. There are also lots of PSB Alpha line bookshelf speakers on Ebay for <$100.

The Dayton B652 and B652-AIR are very good for the price as well and will be cheaper. Also easy to find online.

Lots of other good ones available especially if you don't mind Ebay.

Whatever you buy, make sure you're buying a pair. Lots of speakers are sold individually.
 
Those Dayton B652s are passive. Would they work with just the sound card, and with a Galaxy S5 as a source?
 
Get a T-amp or something. They are very small, inexpensive and generally pretty good. There is no reason to limit yourself to powered speakers just so you can save 6 cubic inches and 1 or 2 cables. Not sure why so many people on this forum limit themselves in this way. It's not like you need a huge receiver to power the things.
 
dandragonrage said:
Get a T-amp or something. They are very small, inexpensive and generally pretty good. There is no reason to limit yourself to powered speakers just so you can save 6 cubic inches and 1 or 2 cables. Not sure why so many people on this forum limit themselves in this way. It's not like you need a huge receiver to power the things.
Click to expand...

I'm just ignorant about passive speakers, I haven't really looked into how to connect them. I see they only have speaker wire connections, so I would plug the source/computer into the amp, then from the amp connect the speakers? Would it work fine with a sub, because I don't see a way they would be in a chain with the sub?
 
DarkDubzs said:
I'm just ignorant about passive speakers, I haven't really looked into how to connect them. I see they only have speaker wire connections, so I would plug the source/computer into the amp, then from the amp connect the speakers? Would it work fine with a sub, because I don't see a way they would be in a chain with the sub?
Click to expand...

Depending on the sub you can either use a splitter to go to both the sub and the amp for the speakers, or you can pass the output of the amp through the sub (using speaker-level inputs/outputs) and then to the speakers. Either way is fine but the latter is easier (because the amp volume would also control the sub volume -- with the first way you would have to use the volume on the PC itself only).

Most subs, including the Dayton SUB-1200, support both of those methods.

The Lepai T-amps are very inexpensive and are OK. Not the best out there but sufficient and your overall setup will have high value. You would need to spend a good bit more to beat that sort of setup (unless you are willing to buy a used receiver which you could get as cheap as free, but it would take up much more space).

If you use the speaker-level-passthrough then you would have 5 audio cables: one 1/8"-to-RCA from the PC to amp, 2 speaker cables from the amp to the sub, and 2 speaker cables from the sub to the speakers. Inexpensive 18-gauge speaker wire would be fine. You would also have two power cables: one for the subwoofer and one for the amplifier. A powered, integrated system would use 2-3 fewer cables, but aside from a couple extra minutes it takes to set this up, it's worth it. You will have a better selection and a better value than powered speakers and it will be easier to integrate whatever subwoofer you might want.

If this is a desk setup and NOT a living room setup, a 10" subwoofer would probably be fine, also. If it's for the living room or dual-purpose, you might prefer the 12". The SUB-1200 is good for the price (as is the 10" version).
 
Last edited:
I really enjoy my KRK Rokit monitors but it requires an external USB audio interface. I use a y splitter and adapter to get a rca to the subwoofer.
 
Spend more on the speakers. Buy the sub later.

Look to craigslist for some used gear. Depending on where you live, you may be able to score a nice receiver and speakers for a good price. The full sized old school speakers have serious bass.
 
dandragonrage said:
Depending on the sub you can either use a splitter to go to both the sub and the amp for the speakers, or you can pass the output of the amp through the sub (using speaker-level inputs/outputs) and then to the speakers. Either way is fine but the latter is easier (because the amp volume would also control the sub volume -- with the first way you would have to use the volume on the PC itself only).

Most subs, including the Dayton SUB-1200, support both of those methods.

The Lepai T-amps are very inexpensive and are OK. Not the best out there but sufficient and your overall setup will have high value. You would need to spend a good bit more to beat that sort of setup (unless you are willing to buy a used receiver which you could get as cheap as free, but it would take up much more space).

If you use the speaker-level-passthrough then you would have 5 audio cables: one 1/8"-to-RCA from the PC to amp, 2 speaker cables from the amp to the sub, and 2 speaker cables from the sub to the speakers. Inexpensive 18-gauge speaker wire would be fine. You would also have two power cables: one for the subwoofer and one for the amplifier. A powered, integrated system would use 2-3 fewer cables, but aside from a couple extra minutes it takes to set this up, it's worth it. You will have a better selection and a better value than powered speakers and it will be easier to integrate whatever subwoofer you might want.

If this is a desk setup and NOT a living room setup, a 10" subwoofer would probably be fine, also. If it's for the living room or dual-purpose, you might prefer the 12". The SUB-1200 is good for the price (as is the 10" version).
Click to expand...

Thanks so much, really cleared it up for me. The second option you said sounds pretty easy and I like how I can control both the sub and speakers with just the amp. The amp I would be using then would be a Lepai LP-2020A+, it's small, cheap, doesn't look horrid, and is relatively popular.
So to get it crystal clear... Connect a 3.5mm--RCA cable from my computer, phone, or whatever source to the amp input (The amp has a 3.5mm input, can I just use a male to male 3.5mm cable from my source to the amp instead?), then four (two black, two red) speaker cables from the amp to the sub (you said two speaker cables, but there are four speaker output ports on the amp and four speaker input ports on the sub), and then another 4 speaker cables from the sub to the speakers. Sounds easy enough.
How would it look on the computer? Would I need to set anything up further? I assume not since the computer would just think it's any other set of speakers or headphones.
Also, if I don't want to have to go and unplug the speakers from the computer every time I want to use my phone as a source, can I use a 3.5mm splitter that is female and splits to two males? Like this. So one male end can be plugged into the computer and then the other male can be free to be used whenever I want to just plug in my phone as a source and not have any music coming from the computer. Would that work, or is this cable made to split channels, so one male end is for the left channel only and the other male is for the right channel only? The female end would be always connected to the speaker chain via the 3.5--RCA cable.

One last quick question, is there a way to use the front panel audio on the computer case even when a sound card is being used? I assume not, unfortunately, since the sound card has no pin headers to plug in the HDAUDIO connector from the case. Even if I could still use the front panel audio, it would have to be connected to the motherboard header and I would only be using the onboard audio for my headphones connected to the front panel.

Edit: Found out that the Sound Blaster Z actually does have an HD_AUDIO header, perfect. So then I can just hook up the front panel audio connector to the header on the card and I can still use the front panel audio jacks like normal and with the benefits of the sound card.

Edit 2: Derp... speaker cable has two strands for positive and negative already... So you were right, just two cables from amp to sub and two from sub to speakers.

3: Wow I must be really derping today. Instead of buying that 3.5m splitter, I can just use a 3.5--RCA from the computer to the amp, and when I want to use my phone as a source, I can just connect it to the amp's 3.5mm input jack with a 3.5mm M-M cable. DERP. So effectively, it will end up looking like this.
 
Last edited:
As an Amazon Associate, HardForum may earn from qualifying purchases.
PC doesn't know or care what speakers are hooked up so it will be business as usual. You can use a 3.5mm straight cord if you want - quality is usually a little lower on them. I wouldn't use a splitter as some amplifier outputs (maybe your phone, for example, or even your PC) don't like audio being run IN to them.

I say 2 speaker wires because a speaker wire has + and -, so 2 speaker wires is technically 4 wires with how you're thinking of them, yes.

Your diagram looks fine but I would recommend unhooking the PC or phone when not using it. I don't believe the Lepai actually has a switch for RCA/3.5mm. I think they are just connected together. You are unlikely to break anything if you don't disconnect it, but I wouldn't recommend it. It is possible that stuff will break even if unlikely. You can take the risk if you want to, though. Lots of people do hook up multiple devices with splitters and very few ever blow anything up by doing it. Just be aware that it's possible. To avoid it, you need to find an amp (or receiver if you can fit it) that has an input switch, find a separate 3.5mm audio switch, or just unplug the cable you don't use. If you can solder, it would also be relatively easy and cheap to open the Lepai, drill a small hole in the case and add a switch for the inputs. Would take maybe 5 minutes with $2-5 of parts if you already have a soldering iron and drill.
 
Last edited:
I would have to use the RCA to 3.5 cable from the pc to amp so that I can have the 3.5 input on the amp free for when I want to plug in my phone as the source.

Mostly, the pc would be the source for like music, gaming, videos, etc. So the pc would be plugged in all the time, and sometimes I might want to listen to stuff from my phone. Do I still need an input switch if I want to only use another source sometimes, the phone would not be always plugged in as a source?

Also, I was thinking. Should the amp, in the system chain, come after the sub? Because the amp is powered, and the speakers need the power because they're passive, so shouldn't the amp come after the sub to power the speakers? So should it not be like this: pc>3.5toRCA cable>sub(sub has rca input ports)>speaker cables>amp>speaker cables>speakers? I'm not saying it should be like this, I'm a novice at this, but I was thinking it might be like this for this situation.
 
The subwoofer won't provide speaker-level-out from RCA in. All it does is take the speaker level in, cross it over into lowpass for sub and highpass for speakers and pass that signal through. Besides, you'd regain the problem of the amp volume not controlling the subwoofer (though the PC volume would). (Actually some won't even highpass the output.)
 
Last edited:
So the amp will power the speakers fine the way you said it should be before the sub? I don't know much about their internals or how they work all in a chain like that, so I was just thinking that the speakers would not get powered if the amp went in to the sub, I thought the speakers would have to come right after the amp.
Either way, it will be all fine and work right the way you said, like the way it is in the diagram?
 
Have you tried looking on craigslist for some used speakers. You can find some good quality speakers for good prices.
 
That's another option, but I don't know what other speakers around this price point are good or the best. I've been looking into the A2+, but they're 250 new and not many on sale on CL
 
Audioengine speakers are not garbage and you would probably like them reasonably well, but they are NOT a good value. They are mediocre at best. I would take just about any well-known speaker brand over them - which one is best is subjective, though. Some might actually like the AudioEngines the most, but I doubt many would. They are popular mainly because people think it's worth saving the few cubic inches a T-amp takes. A terrible, terrible criteria for purchasing speakers. If your only option to amplify bookshelf speakers were a physically large receiver, I could understand the decision... But with inexpensive, decent T-amps out... it's just pure laziness. If you try them and honestly like the sound, that's one thing, but buying it for stupid criteria like "I don't have 6 cubic inches to spare" is just ridiculous.

Some good brands to check out - and this is only a small subset of them and in no particular order: Paradigm, PSB, Polk, Bang & Olufsen, Mission, Bowers & Wilkins, Focal/JMLab, McIntosh, NHT, Tannoy, Ascend Acoustics, Klipsch (very subjective and I cannot recommend their cheaper products even a little bit), etc... Could name a lot more, really...

Some of those brands are very expensive, but you might be able to find used speakers for reasonably little money. Some of them, like Polk, do have some cheap lines of speakers that might fit into your budget without problem - those ones obviously aren't super amazing, but they are generally good for the money.

Another well-liked-for-the-money brand is "Home Theater Direct" and they have been around for a while: http://www.htd.com/

Yet another good-for-the-price brand is Fluance. One of my friends has some speakers from them which I have heard but I have not listened to any of my speaker test CDs on them. But they sounded fine and didn't cost much. Not sure if they have small speakers suitable for a desk, but maybe worth a look.

Generally I'd prefer used gear from the other brands, though, like the Paradigm Atom.
 
Last edited:
Yea i use definitive technology bp7006 they are tower speaker with built in sub cost more but do they sound good.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top