Which RTX 4090 card are you planning or consider to get?

lopoetve

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Buy once, cry once.


100%. Just retired an 850W that was 11 years old. Not so much because it broke or anything, was still working, but at that age I figure why gamble, I got my money out of it.
Yup. I move old ones to crappy spare-parts servers and hte like. If they die, they die - that's what backups are for.

And agreed on buy once cry once. I'm wishing I'd done more than 750W on my gaming box, as the next upgrade on that will now need another PSU with more, but ah well - got 3 good years out of it :)
 
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Yup. I move old ones to crappy spare-parts servers and hte like. If they die, they die - that's what backups are for.

And agreed on buy once cry once. I'm wishing I'd done more than 750W on my gaming box, as the next upgrade on that will now need another PSU with more, but ah well - got 3 good years out of it :)
Yep that's what I do too. Or they get retired to "extra PSU" when I need one for running a pump when doing a Mayhems Part 2 loop in the bathroom or something.

Yeah I bought this 1kw PSU last year but now kinda thinking I should have gotten at least 1200W for future proofing given how graphics and CPU's have both been majorly upping the power draw and transients.
 
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I'm still on my 1200W Thermaltake PSU from 2014... I rarely push 900W total and it still runs cool and I clean the dust out twice a year. One of the best PSU's I have ever owned and still runs my gaming rig.
 

russnuck

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If you could get any 4090 card at MSRP, which one would you get and why?

Whatever is $1599 (or close) that isn't Palit. After that it's just a comparison of which company has the best RMA process in case the card dies. Unless you want an AIO, then it's MSI.



Edit: I bought the Zotac Trinity because it was available without markup. I've been running F@H on it 24x7 for ~3 months, no issues, no qualms.
 
Last edited:

KickAssCop

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Messages
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Suprim X has one of the worst performing coolers from a temp / noise perspective.

ASUS TUF would be my pick. Palit is also great if you are looking for silent and cool cards.
 
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Suprim X has one of the worst performing coolers from a temp / noise perspective.

ASUS TUF would be my pick. Palit is also great if you are looking for silent and cool cards.
I dunno about that; I can barely hear mine when gaming and temps barely even hit 60C~65C in full load gaming at 4K. Much quieter than my eVGA 3090 was for sure...

The dBA is in line with almost every single card on the market for the 4090.

https://www.techpowerup.com/review/msi-geforce-rtx-4090-suprim-x/37.html

FWIW, I use the "Gaming" bios for better temps and its pretty quiet (for me anyway).
 

nanobeast

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Is Amazon an authorized dealer for these GPUs? I dont see them listed as vendor option son the Nvidia site.
 

wareyore

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You may sometimes find them sold by Amazon. MSI is rarer. I see MSI on their store and Newegg regularly these days. Maybe BB.

1676076042874.png
 

sphinx99

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Well, after some time with it, the Suprim X Liquid is... fantastic! I love it - crazy powerful, runs cool, OCs well, and thanks to the form factor it actually fits perfectly in a "normal" case. I'm delighted. The only issue is that I don't have any games that particularly stress it.
 

xDiVolatilX

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Well, after some time with it, the Suprim X Liquid is... fantastic! I love it - crazy powerful, runs cool, OCs well, and thanks to the form factor it actually fits perfectly in a "normal" case. I'm delighted. The only issue is that I don't have any games that particularly stress it.
You have a 4k monitor? 144hz?
 

kamxam

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Getting the Suprim X Liquid by next weekend hopefully. Already have the Kingpin 3090 so replacing it with the 4090 should be fairly easy.
 

lopoetve

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The ichill one I had my eye on seems to have never been made. Sad. Either have to get a 4080 or wait till the next generation.
 

Lifelite

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Got the 4090 as a gift for vday. This bitch is HUGE.

LBWp0yFRMZ0mtr9TSuYGPSloh4D1_TEf4f4k4SGAogwzDmobV0FPOZfNp8xLiEyEMMB4nmd52_dgz2YrooGBECugvS0m6KSw1fJH_GEIuSxCySfTRudsfteh5vGhIAv6H8md-4ODZYHIUSCsvVoGAwdbDn-Qp92jpXz3d1PT83QkLAYLT8oZntjO_FoxUth85h0Kz_dyEqxecoMDqKhwsTva203AKr9KNeYVlu_beE3AFz9XLmkEfpituMyD8YTCpKVKUXGXCDqhQI_69pFYLSfUSyZestxjS5zlLjZ_JSGvogrcM4Kmb_pCwAvxTQ5RnneEQhLZ9IbbFuD8tK8nGr2NflXf83i_-4Lcc0Yi-f4EN1zeVhtLX1MW86O6Jyk6pN8k4CDDtrD3taNX2DSKLvXC8wGK7ZFvn8_skZDQaWKNrhdh_Ypleqq1J_nwJwsj8hmFRjUoSYWSIdeSNbNMEAteAjPcWmuSVHhrNn1RTJKXcv19DoDwNsJ_s9ug-j06M3ef-u_EDUwkFVnkXpBNzsIQ_jGGQod8v97woVnHQruPqgQPw5LadjBr2VBhDMPJNuLELS94pY7yFT53ZSzwfaO9sLk2hEm-YoFBbITjzgscD-M6P-5y7tW3phR4aZNLDZqWx54Gr33j5VXp94oB8LnZtOvrDrrpftuz2-kB0hH5kr-tZ8X8q44aUH3hOLQkPGgxx6iBw6KgjeOgXw4hOEq4vJ5UeQWa7yWLtJ3-ZZ5nHeD89Wz-SAfdPR8ybDpO4UIKTaUSIb1aE169ysjgFwYqgF6_XVlwbH0sY7Gcxred13H3LWKyNN55fv93bAjaVuaBxTufOK-G2EY9uqBIsObRHWF1p3b_uI2Zi4t07vhToL4FHJYzS9zngF-mlNZKabYLZxNpJrSf5viJbZD3vrqQYANf3er_J7DL6jvg6YLidg=w959-h1278-no


Excuse the messy office, I had my pc apart and packaging everywhere.

She got me the best one she could find, the ROG Strix. Glad she didn't try to find the OC version, as that seems to just be a waste of money...though I think we're well past worrying about that at this point. My case is a bit too small for comfort so I might be in the market to switch it all out. I'm not overly concerned about the bend on the power cable to the GPU, but it's still slightly uncomfortable for me.

LH8-TybMkMxYWrULkbXt4owg=w1707-h1280-no?authuser=0.jpg
8BR7f7FmLsU_5QlsVUyGkorHw=w960-h1280-no?authuser=0.jpg


For now though, looks like Asus is sending me a cable for the PSU that has the 16 pin, so maybe that will work.
 

Niner21

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685
Just ordered my ROG Strix GeForce RTX 4090 White Edition, so I'm pretty excited. Will be selling the Gigabyte 4090 OC card currently in my system at some point. It's been a great card, but the Asus card will tie my system together.
 

Ryan7968

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Messages
314
I just got an MSI gaming x trio 4090, is it pointless to overclock these things? I see people say either crank up the voltage and power sliders and then overclock, or undervolt it and run slightly lower frequencies for hardly any performance loss. I'm not looking to undervolt, I'd just run stock if I felt like going that route. Right off the bat I tried to find the limit for an OC, increased the core in 15mhz steps and ran firestrike extreme until it crapped out. Passed at 3150 core (3045 average) and crashed at 3165. Memory I took up to +1400 then stopped, didn't see any artifacts but didn't want to push it too far.

In the end the score which started at 16504 (19437 graphic score) stock everything went up to 17286 (20663 graphic score). Should I just back off the max OC by maybe 60mhz core and 400 mem and assume I'll be stable there long term?
 

kamxam

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Messages
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Expecting my Suprim Liquid 4090 to arrive today so planning to try it out tonight. Also ordered the 600W Corsair power cable the same day so hopefully that will be in also.
 
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I just got an MSI gaming x trio 4090, is it pointless to overclock these things? I see people say either crank up the voltage and power sliders and then overclock, or undervolt it and run slightly lower frequencies for hardly any performance loss. I'm not looking to undervolt, I'd just run stock if I felt like going that route. Right off the bat I tried to find the limit for an OC, increased the core in 15mhz steps and ran firestrike extreme until it crapped out. Passed at 3150 core (3045 average) and crashed at 3165. Memory I took up to +1400 then stopped, didn't see any artifacts but didn't want to push it too far.

In the end the score which started at 16504 (19437 graphic score) stock everything went up to 17286 (20663 graphic score). Should I just back off the max OC by maybe 60mhz core and 400 mem and assume I'll be stable there long term?
If temps are acceptable and you are ok with the power draw, why leave performance on the table? I run my MSI 4090 Suprim X at 3030Mhz core, +1250Mhz for gaming with Power Slider at +108% and Voltage at +100% (which opens it up to 1.1V). When "benchmarking", I'll push the memory to +1400Mhz (sadly my max...).
 

Ryan7968

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Messages
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If temps are acceptable and you are ok with the power draw, why leave performance on the table? I run my MSI 4090 Suprim X at 3030Mhz core, +1250Mhz for gaming with Power Slider at +108% and Voltage at +100% (which opens it up to 1.1V). When "benchmarking", I'll push the memory to +1400Mhz (sadly my max...).
Well I think I'm inclined to follow that advice, but my max on memory seems to be 1400mhz too since I did try bumping it up to 1500mhz after posting and that gave me a crash. My core also can't run 3150 with the mem overclocked, so 3135 core and 1400 mem is as high as it goes it seems. This is all on max fans everywhere so with more reasonable fan curves running I think I'll try and settle in at +225 on the core and +1200 on the mem, I think sustained average clocks on the core will hover around 2975-3000 on the core whether I push it to the limit or not.

The entire time I was testing this card it was claiming to pull 450w in gpu-z. I thought it had a max draw of 480w so I'm a bit confused by that limit. Swapping the bios in the first week of ownership is probably not something I'd want to do, but theoretically I could swap the bios to something with a higher limit and buy a cable with four 8-pin connectors and push more power to it, is that right?
 
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Well I think I'm inclined to follow that advice, but my max on memory seems to be 1400mhz too since I did try bumping it up to 1500mhz after posting and that gave me a crash. My core also can't run 3150 with the mem overclocked, so 3135 core and 1400 mem is as high as it goes it seems. This is all on max fans everywhere so with more reasonable fan curves running I think I'll try and settle in at +225 on the core and +1200 on the mem, I think sustained average clocks on the core will hover around 2975-3000 on the core whether I push it to the limit or not.

The entire time I was testing this card it was claiming to pull 450w in gpu-z. I thought it had a max draw of 480w so I'm a bit confused by that limit. Swapping the bios in the first week of ownership is probably not something I'd want to do, but theoretically I could swap the bios to something with a higher limit and buy a cable with four 8-pin connectors and push more power to it, is that right?
Not sure what the limits of your specific card are, but at 108% my limit is 520W and the max I have ever pulled is 502W. It's important to note I game at 4K, so my load is fairly high on the GPU. That being said, most games I play (BF2042, COD:MW2, CP2077, MSFS2020) barely reach a load of 460W and are typically at 400W or lower even with 99% GPU usage. I don't even use an aggressive fan curve either. My fans gaming will sit around 50% and my temps are on average 45~55C depending on the game. It maintains a 3015~3030Mhz core clock SOLID and it does not bounce around. Memory stays around 58C with a 1280+Mhz clock when gaming for awhile.

That being said, I got this specific model for the awesome air cooling capabilities... so YMMV.
 

Zarathustra[H]

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So, for what it is worth, my MSI 4090 is one of the wimpiest out there from a power perspective, peaking at 450w, and in actual titles I never hit the power limit.

I've seen it be hit a few times in Time Spy, but other than that, I have literally never seen the power limit reached. At 4k It's usually volt limited, according to RivaTuner's stats. If you try to run at lower resolutions, it might just be CPU limited.

Based on this, unless you plan on doing extreme overclocking, I'm thinking the version of the card matters very little.

I put a water block on mine, but I did extensive testing before I did, and even the wimpiest air cooled version that was on mine (no vapor chamber, just heat pipes) the card was very reasonable in volume under full load.

My take is, if you are thinking of getting a 4090, just get any 4090. Any of them will be a good experience. A 4090, any 4090 is going to be a beast.
 

NKD

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So, for what it is worth, my MSI 4090 is one of the wimpiest out there from a power perspective, peaking at 450w, and in actual titles I never hit the power limit.

I've seen it be hit a few times in Time Spy, but other than that, I have literally never seen the power limit reached. At 4k It's usually volt limited, according to RivaTuner's stats. If you try to run at lower resolutions, it might just be CPU limited.

Based on this, unless you plan on doing extreme overclocking, I'm thinking the version of the card matters very little.

I put a water block on mine, but I did extensive testing before I did, and even the wimpiest air cooled version that was on mine (no vapor chamber, just heat pipes) the card was very reasonable in volume under full load.

My take is, if you are thinking of getting a 4090, just get any 4090. Any of them will be a good experience. A 4090, any 4090 is going to be a beast.
yea I tell people this buy based on what you perfer and experience is going to be the same. It might just come down to physical looks lmao. That was the case with me.
 
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yea I tell people this buy based on what you perfer and experience is going to be the same. It might just come down to physical looks lmao. That was the case with me.
This 100%... lol. I 25% wanted the Suprim X for the increase air cooling, but 75% just love the looks of the damn thing.
 

Zarathustra[H]

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yea I tell people this buy based on what you perfer and experience is going to be the same. It might just come down to physical looks lmao. That was the case with me.

Yep. I didn't realize this upfront, but in retrospect I agree. It almost doesn't matter which version you get. They all have big overkill coolers that remain reasonably quiet even at high load (as long as the room isn't too hot and the case has decent airflow) and even the versions with the least amount of power delivery are more than enough except for overclocking competitions in Time Spy or Furmark.

And regardless of which version you get, overclocking is going to be of limited usefulness. You can squeeze a tiny bit m ore out of it, but not enough to really have a noticeable impact on frame rate.

I guess the only choice that makes much of a difference is if you don't have a custom water loop, you might benefit from getting an AIO so you can vent all of that heat OUT of the case, so you don't trap it inside.

That, and pick a company with good warranty/RMA practices.

Other than that, they are all going to be pretty much the same. Pick the one you think is pretty if you care about that sort of thing. Or pick the one you can get your hands on without overpaying too much over MSRP.
 
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And regardless of which version you get, overclocking is going to be of limited usefulness. You can squeeze a tiny bit m ore out of it, but not enough to really have a noticeable impact on frame rate.
I don't agree with this comment... maybe with "core" speed, but if you get a good 1200Mhz~1400Mhz increase on the GDDR6X, you can gain a good 6~8% in performance in my experience on many games. This is gaming at 4K BTW, might have less effect at lower resolutions....
 

NKD

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I don't agree with this comment... maybe with "core" speed, but if you get a good 1200Mhz~1400Mhz increase on the GDDR6X, you can gain a good 6~8% in performance in my experience on many games. This is gaming at 4K BTW, might have less effect at lower resolutions....
I let my ram at 1150 I seem to get better performance there. may be core is boosting higher. Don't know lmao. Scored the highest in time spy ultra with +205 on core, voltage at 1.1v, mem at 1150 and power at 110%. Thiis on zotac amp airo extreme, the temps are in the mid to high 60s and mem in the 70s.
 

Zarathustra[H]

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I don't agree with this comment... maybe with "core" speed, but if you get a good 1200Mhz~1400Mhz increase on the GDDR6X, you can gain a good 6~8% in performance in my experience on many games. This is gaming at 4K BTW, might have less effect at lower resolutions....

OK.

Lets say you were playing Cyberpunk 2077 at 4k with RT Ultra with DLSS Quality at 85.4fps. (As reviewed by TheFPSReview)

And lets say you add 6-8 % on top of that.

Now you have gone from 85.4 to 91-92 fps somewhere.

Is that really a relevant difference to you? A noticeable frame rate change?

I'd argue that unless you are hovering with minimum framerates just below 60fps, and that 6-8% is enough to bring you over 60fps, 6-8% is utterly meaningless.

And even then, lets say you get 55fps (like I did in Dying Light 2 without DLSS) 6%-8% is only going to get you to 58-59fps. You won't even cross that magic 60fps barrier. I'm going to have to turn on DLSS anyway, and if I do, I'm dealing with a unnoticeably small difference, so what difference does it make?

So I guess my argument is, you need to be getting more than just 6%-8% for it to really be a practically relevant overclock.

Back in 2010 I won the silicon lottery somewhat on my GTX470. Overclocking that thing (on air, with the factory blower "hair dryer" cooler) I was able to get a ~25% improvement. It was actually faster than the 480 at stock. That was a noticeable and significant difference.

Heck, back in the late 90's I ghetto strapped an old 486 HSF to my Voodoo1 board using a couple of hair ties I "borrowed" from my mom, and was able to make huge framerate increases in GLQuake and Quake2. (I can't remember the numbers though. It's been too long, but they were very relevant to me at the time)

The single digit percentages we are getting these days, at great difficulty in many cases, just don't amount to a hill of beans in practical use.

They are great for overclocking competitions though, but that is mostly useless and has no value beyond bragging rights.

Outside of that, overclocking is mostly dead, both on the GPU and on the CPU.

Every CPU I owned from 1991 when I got my first 286 until 2019 when I bought my Threadripper, I tweaked the shit out of and overclocked.

My 8Mhz 286 was stable at 12mhz. My 486sx25 was my best overclock ever. It was stable at 50Mhz, a 100% overclock. And all it took was adding an HSF (it shipped without, same HSF I would later use on my Voodoo1 mentioned above) ) and moving a jumper. My Duron 650 (my first build in college) hit 950Mhz. The 1200Mhz Thunderbird and XP 1800+ were both disappointments, but every CPU after that I overclocked as well.

I once took at 2 core Athlon for my stepson, uinlocked two more coresa and some cache to make it a quad core Phenom II, and then pushed it to 4.2Ghz My i7-3930k hit 4.8Ghz (4.7Ghz in the summer when it was hot).

Etc. etc.

My Threadripper 3960x is running stock.

Why? Lots of work, only single digit benefit potential. It just doesn't make sense anymore.

I guess what I am trying to say is, I have been overclocking for 30 years. I never thought I'd own a PC that wasn't overclocked. Why leave performance on the table?

Despite my background, and it saddens me to say so, but Overclocking is dead.

Better to focus on keeping temps low to maximize boost clocks, and get a good cooling system to keep things less noisy.
 
Last edited:
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OK.

Lets say you were playing Cyberpunk 2077 at 4k with RT Ultra with DLSS Quality at 85.4fps. (As reviewed by TheFPSReview)

And lets say you add 6-8 % on top of that.

Now you have gone from 85.4 to 91-92 fps somewhere.

Is that really a relevant difference to you? A noticeable frame rate change?

I'd argue that unless you are hovering with minimum framerates just below 60fps, and that 6-8% is enough to bring you over 60fps, 6-8% is utterly meaningless.

And even then, lets say you get 55fps (like I did in Dying Light 2 without DLSS) 6%-8% is only going to get you to 58-59fps. You won't even cross that magic 60fps barrier. I'm going to have to turn on DLSS anyway, and if I do, I'm dealing with a unnoticeably small difference, so what difference does it make?

So I guess my argument is, you need to be getting more than just 6%-8% for it to really be a practically relevant overclock.

Back in 2010 I won the silicon lottery somewhat on my GTX470. Overclocking that thing (on air, with the factory blower "hair dryer" cooler) I was able to get a ~25% improvement. It was actually faster than the 480 at stock. That was a noticeable and significant difference.

Heck, back in the late 90's I ghetto strapped an old 486 HSF to my Voodoo1 board using a couple of hair ties I "borrowed" from my mom, and was able to make huge framerate increases in GLQuake and Quake2. (I can't remember the numbers though. It's been too long, but they were very relevant to me at the time)

The single digit percentages we are getting these days, at great difficulty in many cases, just don't amount to a hill of beans in practical use.

They are great for overclocking competitions though, but that is mostly useless and has no value beyond bragging rights.

Outside of that, overclocking is mostly dead, both on the GPU and on the CPU.

Every CPU I owned from 1991 when I got my first 286 until 2019 when I bought my Threadripper, I tweaked the shit out of and overclocked.

My 8Mhz 286 was stable at 12mhz. My 486sx25 was my best overclock ever. It was stable at 50Mhz, a 100% overclock. And all it took was adding an HSF (it shipped without, same HSF I would later use on my Voodoo1 mentioned above) ) and moving a jumper. My Duron 650 (my first build in college) hit 950Mhz. The 1200Mhz Thunderbird and XP 1800+ were both disappointments, but every CPU after that I overclocked as well.

I once took at 2 core Athlon for my stepson, uinlocked two more coresa and some cache to make it a quad core Phenom II, and then pushed it to 4.2Ghz My i7-3930k hit 4.8Ghz (4.7Ghz in the summer when it was hot).

Etc. etc.

My Threadripper 3960x is running stock.

Why? Lots of work, only single digit benefit potential. It just doesn't make sense anymore.

I guess what I am trying to say is, I have been overclocking for 30 years. I never thought I'd own a PC that wasn't overclocked. Why leave performance on the table?

Despite my background, and it saddens me to say so, but Overclocking is dead.

Better to focus on keeping temps low to maximize boost clocks, and get a good cooling system to keep things less noisy.
I dunno, to each their own maybe? I don't care about the extra power draw (which is not crazy on this GPU), it's peanuts in comparison to what my PC has cost overall. Personally, I like to know I am getting the absolute max out of my system, 6~8% may not be noticed in most games outside benchmarks, but I like knowing its there.

I have also had no trouble keeping this thing cool with a quiet fan curve. It does not move off of 3015~3030Mhz... it is a solid boost.

I took a ton of time even tuning my 5950X PBO per core and tweaked every single timing on my RAM to get the tightest timings and highest possible speeds with my setup when I originally built it.

Maybe for most people the hassle is not worth it anymore, but I absolutely LOVE pushing my equipment to its highest possible performance. I legit enjoy it.

Been doing it to my systems since the days it was done with jumpers on the motherboards... :)
 

lopoetve

Extremely [H]
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Messages
33,582
OK.

Lets say you were playing Cyberpunk 2077 at 4k with RT Ultra with DLSS Quality at 85.4fps. (As reviewed by TheFPSReview)

And lets say you add 6-8 % on top of that.

Now you have gone from 85.4 to 91-92 fps somewhere.

Is that really a relevant difference to you? A noticeable frame rate change?

I'd argue that unless you are hovering with minimum framerates just below 60fps, and that 6-8% is enough to bring you over 60fps, 6-8% is utterly meaningless.

And even then, lets say you get 55fps (like I did in Dying Light 2 without DLSS) 6%-8% is only going to get you to 58-59fps. You won't even cross that magic 60fps barrier. I'm going to have to turn on DLSS anyway, and if I do, I'm dealing with a unnoticeably small difference, so what difference does it make?

So I guess my argument is, you need to be getting more than just 6%-8% for it to really be a practically relevant overclock.

Back in 2010 I won the silicon lottery somewhat on my GTX470. Overclocking that thing (on air, with the factory blower "hair dryer" cooler) I was able to get a ~25% improvement. It was actually faster than the 480 at stock. That was a noticeable and significant difference.

Heck, back in the late 90's I ghetto strapped an old 486 HSF to my Voodoo1 board using a couple of hair ties I "borrowed" from my mom, and was able to make huge framerate increases in GLQuake and Quake2. (I can't remember the numbers though. It's been too long, but they were very relevant to me at the time)

The single digit percentages we are getting these days, at great difficulty in many cases, just don't amount to a hill of beans in practical use.

They are great for overclocking competitions though, but that is mostly useless and has no value beyond bragging rights.

Outside of that, overclocking is mostly dead, both on the GPU and on the CPU.

Every CPU I owned from 1991 when I got my first 286 until 2019 when I bought my Threadripper, I tweaked the shit out of and overclocked.

My 8Mhz 286 was stable at 12mhz. My 486sx25 was my best overclock ever. It was stable at 50Mhz, a 100% overclock. And all it took was adding an HSF (it shipped without, same HSF I would later use on my Voodoo1 mentioned above) ) and moving a jumper. My Duron 650 (my first build in college) hit 950Mhz. The 1200Mhz Thunderbird and XP 1800+ were both disappointments, but every CPU after that I overclocked as well.

I once took at 2 core Athlon for my stepson, uinlocked two more coresa and some cache to make it a quad core Phenom II, and then pushed it to 4.2Ghz My i7-3930k hit 4.8Ghz (4.7Ghz in the summer when it was hot).

Etc. etc.

My Threadripper 3960x is running stock.

Why? Lots of work, only single digit benefit potential. It just doesn't make sense anymore.

I guess what I am trying to say is, I have been overclocking for 30 years. I never thought I'd own a PC that wasn't overclocked. Why leave performance on the table?

Despite my background, and it saddens me to say so, but Overclocking is dead.

Better to focus on keeping temps low to maximize boost clocks, and get a good cooling system to keep things less noisy.
And pick boards that override the time based boost limits. And then keep it cool to let it boost as long as possible.
 

kamxam

[H]ard|Gawd
Joined
Mar 2, 2005
Messages
1,927
Got my 4090 Liquid Suprim tonight. Took me about 4 hours to get it working correctly but all is good now.
For a while my computer wouldn't boot up but found out i had knocked the Power/HDD/Etc LED off the motherboard. Booted up once i put it back.
Tried using the included PSU adapter but it wouldn't work for some reason. Got the Corsair one, and it works fine with that.
Mid-30's temps so far but no gaming till tomorrow unfortunately.
All in all, i'm liking the card so far.

Can i make the joke that the PC in the pic above seems to be "Purring" along? :rolleyes:
 

Zarathustra[H]

Extremely [H]
Joined
Oct 29, 2000
Messages
36,045
Just got me a 4090 strix. I thought my 3090 ti was massive, but this thing is massive. Fits nicely in my full tower case though!View attachment 549749View attachment 549752


Yeah, pictures just don't do the size justice.

<proceeds to post pictures>

Here is my MSI Gaming X version when I inserted it in my Phantex Enthoo Pro testbench case to verify functionality before putting the water block on.

1676598404394.png



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That's an SSI-CEB (EATX) form factor P9X79 WS motherboard and a huge full tower case. I had to take the 3.5" drive bays out in slide it under the metal cage that holds the drive bays in place in order to fit it.

Here is when I installed the EK water block with a soda can for reference:

1676598579927.png


The box the water block came in looked like it could have fit a 420mm radiator...

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Getting ready for pasting and assembly:

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Lol "Weighted Companion GPU:

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(Apparently Thermal Grizzly Kryonaut Extreme is pink now)

And all installed:

1676598785539.png
 
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