What Mouse and Keyboard Are You Using Right Now?

Keyboard is:

Duck One 2 Skyline with Cherry MX Brown switches

I love mechanical keyboards for typing. I have the Cherry MX Blue switches in my home keyboard, and I wish I had them in my work keyboard, but I don't feel like driving everyone in my office insane. However, the MX Browns have the exact same profile as the MX Blues, just without the auditory feedback.
I had a Ducky One 2 Mini v2 for a year, loved it so much I went and got the Ducky One 2 SF because I was missing dedicated arrow keys, both Cherry MX Red switches.

For work, I was previously using a board with Brown switches, but my Ducky One w/ Reds weren't nearly as loud. Can't recommend Ducky enough!!!
 
Ducky Mecha SF Radiant and Razer Viper Ultimate

Need more buzzwords. Are they:

Seedless
Organic
Free Range
Boneless
Gluten Free
Soy Free
Dairy Free
Non-GMO
Cage Free
Fair Trade
Non-Animal Tested
Low Fat
Low Carb
Lactose Free
Low Sodium
No Added Sugar
Hormone Free
Non-Antibiotic

???????????????
 
Logitech G815 Keyboard with Corsair iCue Nexus touch screen sitting on it, and a Logitech G604 mouse.
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Finally ditching my Logitech G502 for a Glorious Model I.

I've been wanting a newer mouse with more buttons. I picked up a steelseries Rival 5 and its shape didn't really work for me. My wife has a Glorious Model O, and while it's small, I liked a lot about it. So I grabbed the Model I as soon as it was announced.

I’m not a professional mouse reviewer or a professional gamer. Most of what I’ve played with this mouse over the time period has been minecraft, a most of my gaming at the moment is done with a PS5 controller.

Also, and this is huge for me, not being a professional FPS player, I actually like my mouse DPI to be stupid high. I used about 4000 DPI as my average on the G502, and I found that around 5200~ to be the sweet DPI point for the Glorious Model I. I have three horizontal monitors and I like being able to swipe from the end of one all the way to the end of the other without moving my wrist. Yes, I’m insane.

That out of the way, because of my mouse preference the actual light weight nature of the mouse doesn’t really change all that much for me. I never felt like the G502 was “heavy” (with or without the weights) and because I use such minimal mouse movement, the weight of the Model I doesn’t really change much. I do like the way that the honeycombs allows my palm to breath though, and I think that’s the main benefit. I never actually lift the mouse off the desk for any reason.

As I mentioned before, the shape and size of this mouse is pretty much perfect for my apparently slightly larger than normal hands. The furthest front side button is exactly where my thumb rests, the scroll wheel is a tiny bit further ahead than I’m used too but I got used to that pretty easily. The front two of the upper side buttons are within extremely easy reach. I’ve actually already adjusted to hitting the 3rd button with a different part of my thumb. Which is fine, as I purposefully have that button set as something that i’ll use less often.

The sensor rocks, even at 6000 dpi I’m really good at stopping nearly pixel perfectly, definitely smoother than the G502 Hero that i’ve been using. The model I seems to have less acceleration. Definitely a plus.

Overall, I like it enough to switch away from my G502 for now. It has enough buttons to do what I need it to do, even though it has less than the G502. I never really used the super fancy scroll wheel on the G502 in the end so not having the freescroll is whatever. I do miss the left and right scroll wheel tilt buttons though. Overall i’m pretty damn happy with the mouse and once I get back into an FPS i’ll see how it feels for that.

Oh yeah, the bungie cord is… whatever? I honestly have no thoughts on it either way because it doesn’t really change anything for me. Yet again, probably because of my absolutely crazy super high dpi preference.

I think I am gonna try the grip tape though. At least for the thumb rest area.

One super small issue with the Glorious Core software is that I can’t dedicate a button to “copy” and “paste” easily. I just decided to set them as keyboard shortcuts (ctrl+c, ctrl+v) but a lot of other mouse related software I’ve used had dedicated cut/copy/paste etc. functions.
 
Still using my Corsair k70 mk.2 and Glaive mouse … have the same setup for work and gaming. :)

The low profileness of those are so nice. Very nice to type on.
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Gaming: AKKO 3098 with Kailh LTC Box White switches and Hyper pudding caps.
https://www.amazon.com/Akko-Hot-swa...Y7FD/ref=cm_cr_arp_d_product_top?ie=UTF8&th=1

Factory
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Customized for gaming
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Computer Work: GK GAMAKAY LK67 with Akko CS Jelly White Linear switches and XVX cheaper pudding caps.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B09PRMV1T6/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&th=1
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I find it interesting that you chose Linear switches for work, which I presume includes mostly typing?

Usually tactile and/or clicky switches are preferred in this application, with linear users being mostly gamers.

I'm curious why you made that choice.

I went back and forth a lot when it cam eot my work keyboard. I absolutely love typing on old school IBM style Model M keyboards which take clickiness and tactility to an extreme level. I did use a Model M at work years ago when I had my own dedicated office, but that seems to have been a one job thing. Ever since I ahve been in cubicle land, and I decided that Model M's would probably be loud enough to be annoying to others in the office, so I eliminated both them and clicky Cherry MX style switches.

In the end I was used to, and liked heavy tactile switches, so I went with a board designed around the Cherry MX Clears, which are tactile (but not clicky) and among the heaviest Cherry switches out there.

In order to further reduce the sound from the keys bottoming out, I bought a set of O-Rings and added them to the board.

This turned out to be a very good compromise for a work keyboard.
 
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I find it interesting that you chose Linear switches for work, which I presume includes mostly typing?

Usually tactile and/or clicky switches are preferred in this application, with linear users being mostly gamers.

I'm curious why you made that choice.

I went back and forth a lot when it cam eot my work keyboard. I absolutely love typing on old school IBM style Model M keyboards which take clickiness and tactility to an extreme level. I did use a Model M at work years ago when I had my own dedicated office, but that seems to have been a one job thing. Ever since I ahve been in cubicle land, and I decided that Model M's would probably be loud enough to be annoying to others in the office, so I eliminated both them and clicky Cherry MX style switches.

In the end I was used to, and liked heavy tactile switches, so I went with a board designed around the Cherry MX Clears, which are tactile (but not clicky) and among the heaviest Cherry switches out there.

In order to further reduce the sound from the keys bottoming out, I bought a set of O-Rings and added them to the board.

This turned out to be a very good compromise for a work keyboard.
Good questions. So, the Akko board came with Akko white linear, and those switches are I think even better than the Kailh. Just to state it again, if I buy switches again it will be Akko. They are smooth, smooth, smooth.

Anyway, I initially bought the Kailh switches initially for the Gamakay board, which was a bare board. Then I got the Akko board free for a program I am in. Initially I was going to use the Akko board for both typing and gaming because it is that good. The thing is, it's heavy, built like a tank, and harder to grab with one hand and move around all day. So, to answer your question, I will probably swap out the Kailh into the Gamakay board for computer work, and use the Akko linear back where they came from, which is the Akko board -- lol. In fact, I think I'll do it tomorrow. The Kailh LTC Box switches are also outstanding. The Akko swithces are cheaper, though, and I can't see or feel any quality differences. I also think Kailh's new box LTC switches are better than Cherry. You should try them.
 
You know.. having the same setup for work and gaming (ish) … I think it’s a good thing. muscle memory.
I had the same concern, but it's not an issue really. I mean, gaming wise, its WASD and a few hot keys. I find the 65% boards hard to game with because they are so compact. I never liked them. I would never have gotten a 60-65% board. I got the DIY bare Gamakay board free, so I just took it because it had good reviews. I use to for computing because it is light, small, and easy to move around (I use it on my lap, not on a desk, and I game with a keyboard on my lap too, so a larger board is better for me).

The AKKO board is built like a tank, and it's just too large and heavy to move around all the time (with one hand, because I'm constantly getting up and moving things around). Speaking to the AKKO board, I don't like the 96% boards either. They have some nonstandard key cap sizes that are hard to find. Also, I don't use a numpad, so the 87 key or 85% boards are my favorite (no key pad, but have all other keys). I'm waiting patiently for AKKO to put out an 87 key board becasue I'm impressed with their quality. :) However, I don't really care what brand it is as long as the technology on it works correctly.

I still haven't figured out why more name brand keyboard makers are not embracing the DIY hot swap boards. If I buy a 100-200 board, and a switch goes bad, I don;t want to have to trash it. Hot swap switches is just where it's at.

I actually sat down yesterday and pulled all of the switches and caps off both boards and swapped out the switches. I think the linear switches just sound better in the Gamakay because of the Gamakay's acoustics, and the Kailh Box whites sound better in the AKKO board. I don't type enough on the AKKO board to make a difference, though. Those AKKO white linear switches are fucking fast and smooth, though. They have a really light actuation, which I like. The Kailh also have a light actuation, but the AKKO switches are even faster and lighter.

If anyone tries the Akko CS Jelly White Linear switches or the Kailh LTC Box White switches, let me know what you think. Just make sure you get the upgraded Akko white, which are box, and which AKKO calls "Jelly."
https://www.amazon.com/EPOMAKER-Lin...jbGlja1JlZGlyZWN0JmRvTm90TG9nQ2xpY2s9dHJ1ZQ==
 
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You know.. having the same setup for work and gaming (ish) … I think it’s a good thing. muscle memory.

Maybe. I suspect my muscle memory has two different settings though.

I do use the same keyboard at home and at work though, just different switches. Both are Ducky One's. At home I have cherry MX Greens (without o-rings) which I use for all my home typing and gaming (more typing than gaming) and at work I use Cherry MX Clears with o-rings to keep it quieter.
 
I just switched out the SteelSeries Rival 5 for the Aerox 3 wireless and it's the best mouse I've ever used. The Rival 5 was great as I stated a while back, but it's a bit too big for my hand; the Aerox 3 fits perfectly.
 
Using a standard Microsoft Bluetooth keyboard and mouse. They came with my new Surface Laptop. Not saying I recommend them cos haven’t used them long enough but they’re not bad for the everyday work tasks so far.
 
I can't remember if I ever mentioned this but in March of 2019 I ordered an ErgoDox Infinity as part of a group buy. It got endlessly delayed--first there was an issue with the (small) OLED screens it uses, then the Coof, then all kinds of other stuff. Eventually, last year (!), the production was finally greenlit and the factory took the money and then disappeared. The people in charge ate the cost and offered everyone a refund or a variant of the ErgoDox, the Hot Dox V2. I took that and finally got mine about a week ago. Yes, for those playing along, that's almost 3 and a half years.

Anyway, here it is, with a set of SA Carbon keycaps I've had sitting on a shelf waiting for this keyboard for about a year. For those not familiar with the SA profile, which is very tall compared to the OEM or Cherry profiles you usually see with most mass-produced keyboards, I included a second picture with a side profile. These are very nice keycaps with a solid feeling to them.
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If it ain’t broke, why fix it. My original Dell PC keyboard from 2000? Maybe 2001? The oldest component of my system next to my Logitech Z-680 speakers. I have worn the print off the “C” key from crouching. Not bad for a 20+ year old keyboard.

Wired Intellimouse 3.0. The last of three I bought in 2006? Wore the other two out lol.

Will probably scour the Internet for new (not used) exact same thing to replace them when they finally break.
 

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If it ain’t broke, why fix it. My original Dell PC keyboard from 2000? Maybe 2001? The oldest component of my system next to my Logitech Z-680 speakers. I have worn the print off the “C” key from crouching. Not bad for a 20+ year old keyboard.

Wired Intellimouse 3.0. The last of three I bought in 2006? Wore the other two out lol.

Will probably scour the Internet for new (not used) exact same thing to replace them when they finally break.
Z-680s are baaaad mamajamas. I tried to find a set years ago when my Klipsch 5.1s died but was shocked at how much they were still going for! Hold onto those suckers.
 
Z-680s are baaaad mamajamas. I tried to find a set years ago when my Klipsch 5.1s died but was shocked at how much they were still going for! Hold onto those suckers.

I still have my z623's. They are disconnected in the closet. Sure, they get loud, but the quality leaves lots to be desired. Muddled highs, bass that is boomy but poor reproduction of sound and notes.

I honestly don't think I could ever use a set of "active PC speakers in a box" again. I consider them to all be trash, every last one of them.

Jus about everyone at any price point north of about $80 is better off buying an amp and separates.
 
This peripheral has lasted so long. I *just* found out how well the unit is put together while disassembling to clean it (for the first time in WAY over a decade, I bought the set for 150.00 in 2011) This keyboard is a beast. It, along with the mouse are flawless performers and work at a range of 30 feet (Bluetooth). The keyboard batteries last around a year (4 AA) and the mouse will work on a full charge for a couple of weeks STILL.
I found another on amazon for $780.00 https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0011FQUQG/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Everything comes apart for cleaning, the key tray is separate from the PCB, and all the keycaps fit into it allowing full scrubbing, the wrist guard also unscrews so you can scrub it. 11 years without a tear down is pretty good, the only reason I cleaned it was due to sheetrock dust going everywhere during construction in the basement

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I still have my z623's. They are disconnected in the closet. Sure, they get loud, but the quality leaves lots to be desired. Muddled highs, bass that is boomy but poor reproduction of sound and notes.

I honestly don't think I could ever use a set of "active PC speakers in a box" again. I consider them to all be trash, every last one of them.

Jus about everyone at any price point north of about $80 is better off buying an amp and separates.
Hahaha yep. 623s are shit compared to the 680s. Those are what I went with as a cheap option. They now sit in their box in the basement.

Edit- sorry for the ot.
 
Wired Intellimouse 3.0. The last of three I bought in 2006? Wore the other two out lol.

Will probably scour the Internet for new (not used) exact same thing to replace them when they finally break.

I remember liking my intellimouae back in the day. That thing wore out in like 2005, when I replaced it with a Logitech G5.

Then the G5 wore out probably in ~2010 or so and was replaced with a G500. That was probably my favorite mouse I ever owned. I wish I had bought multiples like you did.

When it wore out a few years ago I tried all sorts of mice to replace it, including some SteelSeries thing and hated them all. I wound up with a G502 Proteus Core that I never really liked.

When the MX518 relaunched I pounced. I now have three of them. They were a little light for my tastes, but I cracked them open and added some tungsten putty for extra weight. It makes sense to buy a few extras when you find one you like. You never know if they'll be around when you need a replacement.
 
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A couple of months ago, my brother brought me into the custom keyboard world as a birthday gift. I've switched things around a bit.

Here's my current setup:

Mouse:
Logitech G Pro Wireless

Keyboard:
IDOBAO ID80 Crystal (75%)

  • Akko ASA Clear/White caps
  • EG Aqua King Linear 62g switches
  • Some custom space caps
  • Custom moon wrist rest

Not Pictured:
IDOBAO Montex (numpad)

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Wired Intellimouse 3.0. The last of three I bought in 2006? Wore the other two out lol.

Will probably scour the Internet for new (not used) exact same thing to replace them when they finally break.

I'm big fan of the Pro Intellimouse MSFT brought back three years ago. And I've had IM 3.0 and the Sidewinder gaming Mice in my mouse history too. Strangely, MSFT has been the most dependable for me- and I've had Logi and Corsair mice.

AMAZ has it for cheap right now, I paid $48 for it two years ago. Now I'm snagging spares and one for work.
 
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I picked up a Razer Basilisk V3 the other day cause they're on sale at Best Buy for $35 and I'm really liking it. It's shape is a dead ringer for the Logitech G502 but it's quite a bit lighter and the scroll wheel doesn't rattle when you set it back down. This thing is a lot more solid than the Logitech. I've got about 20 hours on Call of Duty Vanguard in on it and I'm liking it a lot. I always loved the shape of the 502 but the rattling scroll wheel along with the weight of it always meant I was swapping it out after a few days. I admit to being a sucker for RGB and I like the different zones you can put on this thing. I usually go with all blue with some red highlights and I think it looks good.

If you're in a Best Buy and happen upon one of these for $35 I recommend giving one a try.,
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I picked up a Razer Basilisk V3 the other day cause they're on sale at Best Buy for $35 and I'm really liking it. It's shape is a dead ringer for the Logitech G502 but it's quite a bit lighter and the scroll wheel doesn't rattle when you set it back down. This thing is a lot more solid than the Logitech. I've got about 20 hours on Call of Duty Vanguard in on it and I'm liking it a lot. I always loved the shape of the 502 but the rattling scroll wheel along with the weight of it always meant I was swapping it out after a few days. I admit to being a sucker for RGB and I like the different zones you can put on this thing. I usually go with all blue with some red highlights and I think it looks good.

If you're in a Best Buy and happen upon one of these for $35 I recommend giving one a try.,View attachment 492610View attachment 492611View attachment 492612

I've never understood peoples desire for low weight mice. Especially those who use low sensitivity and move their entire forearms when they play. A few grams here or there are negligible compared to the weight of the entire forearm.

I've always wanted them just about as heavy as I can get them, for better tracking stability.

I've never felt a mouse I thought was too heavy. I've felt plenty I thought were too light though.

This includes the MX518 relaunch mice I am using now, which were 101g from the factory. I modded mine by adding 3oz of pine derby tungsten putty inside the chassis, and now at 186g they feel pretty OK.
 
I've never understood peoples desire for low weight mice. Especially those who use low sensitivity and move their entire forearms when they play. A few grams here or there are negligible compared to the weight of the entire forearm.

I've always wanted them just about as heavy as I can get them, for better tracking stability.

I've never felt a mouse I thought was too heavy. I've felt plenty I thought were too light though.

This includes the MX518 relaunch mice I am using now, which were 101g from the factory. I modded mine by adding 3oz of pine derby tungsten putty inside the chassis, and now at 186g they feel pretty OK.

They're nothing magic but I do prefer the lighter weight models. The 502 is like 120 grams IIRC and the Basilisk is right at 100 and I can tell a difference. I kinda do prefer something around 60-70 like my beloved Glorious Model D because while I play at low DPI (650) I swing my wrist around more than move my entire forearm and the lighter mice work better for me and do feel a little better.

I never use a mouse longer than a few weeks before switching to something else for a while. I get bored with the way it feels and want something a little different. I've got like 10 different gaming mice that I cycle between lol....it's a sickness!
 
I never use a mouse longer than a few weeks before switching to something else for a while. I get bored with the way it feels and want something a little different. I've got like 10 different gaming mice that I cycle between lol....it's a sickness!
Ahh,

I'm the opposite in that regard. I find a mouse that I like and that works for me, and then I work its dynamics into muscle memory. Changing it throws me off, so I try not to.
 
I've never understood peoples desire for low weight mice. Especially those who use low sensitivity and move their entire forearms when they play. A few grams here or there are negligible compared to the weight of the entire forearm.

I was on weighted mice for a long time. (Logi MX518, MSFT SideWinder) I loved having the weight, but hated having to switch back to unweighted mice (laptop and at work) That really screws with your muscle memory. After my last Sidewinder crapped out, I switched to unweighted.
 
I was on weighted mice for a long time. (Logi MX518, MSFT SideWinder) I loved having the weight, but hated having to switch back to unweighted mice (laptop and at work) That really screws with your muscle memory. After my last Sidewinder crapped out, I switched to unweighted.

Lol. I did the opposite. Took advantage of the MX518 being a pretty good deal, and bought a few extra, and weight modded them too. Brought one to work :p
 
Believe me, I considered it. If the Sidewinder wasn't so garish-looking I would've done it. My cubicle mates already think I'm weird having a Model M at my desk.

Years ago, when I had my own office, I brought a Model M to work. It was great.

It was in an old building dating back to the era when engineers had their own offices, which was nice when I was there. In my carreer I haven't had my own office before or since.

These days, like everyone else, I have a cubicle at work, and I couldn't bring myself to use a Model M at work. I was concerned about annoying everyone because the keyboard was so loud.

You never know with these things. People may night mind, but others do. But you don't want to put others on the spot and make them feel like they have to say that they don't mind. A friend of mines colleague solved this by bringing a Model M to work, and emailing out an anonymous survey link to everyone within ear-shot so they could provide their input as to whether or not they were bothered, which I thought was a cool idea.

I decided to try something else instead. Because I was used to Model M's I still liked heavy tactile keys, so I went with a Cherry MX clear based quiet tactile bump keyboard, and installed O-rings on all of the keys to silence it. It works pretty well, is pretty nice to type on (but not as nice as the Model M) and is also reasonably quiet.

One of the great things about the relaunched MX518 is that it is pretty stealthy. Unless you know what you are looking at, it really doesn't stand out much in an office environment.

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I cant believe it sells for only $28.50 with prime shipping on Amazon. It's probably the aesthetics that do it. All the gaming kids want colorful flashing lights and/or racing stripes these days, whereas this mouse has a nice conservative look. I hope that doens't get it discontinued. I already have 3 of them, but at $28.50 I might just buy a few spares so I'll always have one.

My only complaint is that at 101g I wish it weighed more out of the box, but a little tungsten putty modding solves that.
 
It's probably the aesthetics that do it. All the gaming kids want colorful flashing lights and/or racing stripes these days, whereas this mouse has a nice conservative look.
And more along the lines of what used to be considered gaming aesthetic, back in a more reasonable, enlightened age. I'm not against flash, for many years I was a UV blacklight guy with my PCs (miss those DFI LANParty boards with UV-reactive slots and brackets), but companies have gone waaaaaaaay overboard with the RGB shit. Even beyond that, a lot of "gaming"-branded products today just have garish, unsightly designs.

I hope that doens't get it discontinued. I already have 3 of them, but at $28.50 I might just buy a few spares so I'll always have one.
Man that is a really good idea, buying spares. Wish I had the same line of thinking when the various RatPadz were around.
 
Man that is a really good idea, buying spares. Wish I had the same line of thinking when the various RatPadz were around.

Same. I randomly have a couple of ratpad spares, due to random luck of being in a thread when Kyle discussed selling some of the remaining inventory a couple of years back. Back in the day when ratpadz.com was up, I made the silly assumption that it would always be around.

They DO warp though, even just sitting around, but this far I've been able to stay on top of it by bending them back every now and then.

Oh, the lessons I wish I had learned when I was younger. I would have done many things differently if I knew what I know now (across PC product purchases, in career moves, and in life in general).

If you find something you like, and it is reasonably cheap and unlikely to become obsolete or lose functionality over time, buy several extras. You'll thank yourself later.
 
I'm now using a Avant Prime Programmable Keyboard & a Elecom Large size Trackball Mouse

 
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