Water cooled, hitting 73c at load - help!

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JDBattleMC

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Nov 15, 2010
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I have a water cooled i7 920 2.67ghz which I am currently OCing at 3.6ghz.

Running Prime95 on it, Im at 73-75c at load which is EXTREMELY high.

I recently (As of today) switched motherboards from an Asus Rampage II Gene, to an EVGA X58 SLI 3.

While switching my waterblock, I just left the thermal paste on the block and processor and re-attached the water block.

Could the lack of reapplication have anything to do with the incredibly high temps?

I'm at 1.33v on the CPU, with the rest of the settings stock.

It's set at 174.42x 21.0 for the settings.

Is there anything else I should check for why its running so hot? I'd think with a water cooled system that I should be never above 50c at load.
 
Yes, the lack of reapplication is a huge factor. By doing that, you have created many air pockets in the thermal interface layer between the CPU heat spreader and your water block.
 
I just bought some Indigo Xtreme Intel Socket 1366 Thermal Interface Kit and that will get here next week hopefully. I will tone the OCing down until then. Keep things at 2.6ghz.
 
please what kind of watercooling if your using an h50/h70 im going to blow my ffing brains out, h70 is not watercooling
 
How is H50 or H70 not watercooled? Its an closed loop with pump, rad, and cpu block.
 
It's technically watercooling, but really, that's like saying a Honda Civic is a sports car just like a Ferrari.
 
kounterfiat said:
please what kind of watercooling if your using an h50/h70 im going to blow my ffing brains out, h70 is not watercooling
Click to expand...

Its ok. It's an h50 so it still is..:p

The definition of water cooling, is cooling something with water. I'm well aware as I do it everyday, I don't even own an h50/70, sometimes more than twice at the same time.

I know it is not going to be equal the performance of a dedicated loop with greater radiator area, but it is water cooling, as it is using water to cool something. H50/H70 contain water, it is a cooler, it uses the said water to pass heat from the CPU to the radiator, where the water is cooled, thus H50/H70 = water cooling. Technically all water loops use copper to cool, as the water only transports the heat. The cooling action is only carried out by the copper/aluminium radiator. It should therefore be liquid transported heat to metal cooling (LTHMC) or just metal cooling (try running a normal loop of liquid round and round all day, trust me, it wont get cooler :D).
 
well you can always go with phase cooling, it uses liquid in it to cool. lol
 
Seriously, if it's a H50/H70, I'm not surprised you're seeing those temps. H50/H70 are no better than air coolers in their respective price range. If you think you should be getting better temps than with a large heatpipe air cooler, then you better get your head out of the clouds and educate yourself a bit.

I have removed the waterblock and put it back on my cpu approximately 5 times now without redoing the thermal paste, and I have noticed an approximately ~2 C in change, load temps. Redoing thermal paste is not as big a deal as some people are making it out to be.

What is the cooler that you are actually running? What is the speed of the fans you're running?
 
The definition of water cooling, is cooling something with water. I'm well aware as I do it everyday, I don't even own an h50/70, sometimes more than twice at the same time.

I know it is not going to be equal the performance of a dedicated loop with greater radiator area, but it is water cooling, as it is using water to cool something.
Click to expand...

fine smart guy have a megahalems and im using liquid cooling, durrr, so if i go around telling people i have liquid cooling what will they think? because the definition of liquid cooling is using liquid to cool something, and theirs liquid in the heat pipes, heck theirs even liquid in the ffing air, water for that matter, therefore im using water to cool something therefore im watercooling durrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrr

hey look guys watercooling H70 durrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrr
 
fromnow on thier is a rule if your using an H70 and saying your watercooling you have to add an *

and then below write this
* im a moron
 
JDBattleMC said:
I have a water cooled i7 920 2.67ghz which I am currently OCing at 3.6ghz.

Running Prime95 on it, Im at 73-75c at load which is EXTREMELY high.

I recently (As of today) switched motherboards from an Asus Rampage II Gene, to an EVGA X58 SLI 3.

While switching my waterblock, I just left the thermal paste on the block and processor and re-attached the water block.

Could the lack of reapplication have anything to do with the incredibly high temps?

I'm at 1.33v on the CPU, with the rest of the settings stock.

It's set at 174.42x 21.0 for the settings.

Is there anything else I should check for why its running so hot? I'd think with a water cooled system that I should be never above 50c at load.
Click to expand...

what were the the temps before you changed the mb?
 
[rant]

what a bunch of snobs/tools in this thread.

the H50/H70 IS watercooling

pump - check
waterblock - check
radiator - check
water - check

just because it doesn't fit in your tiny world definition does not make it any less of a water cooling system.

[/rant]

JDBattleMC said:
While switching my waterblock, I just left the thermal paste on the block and processor and re-attached the water block.
Click to expand...

thats your problem OP
 
86 5.0L said:
[rant]

what a bunch of snobs/tools in this thread.

the H50/H70 IS watercooling

pump - check
waterblock - check
radiator - check
water - check

just because it doesn't fit in your tiny world definition does not make it any less of a water cooling system.

[/rant]



thats your problem OP
Click to expand...

i have an h50 and yes it is "water cooling", but i would never say my system is "water cooled". i would say i have an h50 :)
 
Last edited:
People who build their own water cooling setup will never consider the H50/H70/ECO as true water cooling simply because of pride.
 
Haiku214 said:
People who build their own water cooling setup will never consider the H50/H70/ECO as true water cooling simply because of snobbery .
Click to expand...

fixed :p

Im moving to a full watercooling setup, and still consider 'all in one kits' an idiot proof way to watercool :D
 
I had an H50 and then put together my own loop. It has a water block, liquid, rad, tubing, pump etc etc it's water/liquid cooling and people should get over it by now.
 
n00b rage thread.

Tsumi said:
Seriously, if it's a H50/H70, I'm not surprised you're seeing those temps. H50/H70 are no better than air coolers in their respective price range. If you think you should be getting better temps than with a large heatpipe air cooler, then you better get your head out of the clouds and educate yourself a bit.
Click to expand...

Have you used either? I went through a couple air cooling heatsinks before I got the H50 and it is, indeed, a superior cooler when used properly. My temps were very similar at idle, but at load I was around 9-11*C cooler with the H50. At 4.2Ghz, air cooling just flat out did not cut it. I was seeing 99* after extended periods of testing. The H50 (in stock form) had me at around the 88-90 range. Currently my H50 has me around the 68-71 range.

Tsumi said:
I have removed the waterblock and put it back on my cpu approximately 5 times now without redoing the thermal paste, and I have noticed an approximately ~2 C in change, load temps. Redoing thermal paste is not as big a deal as some people are making it out to be.
Click to expand...

It is good practice to re-apply the TIM each time you remove and replace a cooler. Despite your finds of not seeing any difference, it should not be recommended at all that it is "not a big deal", not only to save time of having to take it off when it was in fact necessary, but just because it is common knowledge that it introduces air gaps into your interface. It's just half-assed to not do it.
 
Bunch of raging teenagers with their l33t custom water cooling loops in this thread.

Of course H50/70 are watercooling systems. They contain everything that a 120mm rad custom watercooling system does. Except you buy everything preassembled and sealed.

And like everyone says, reapply thermal paste and report back.
 
The level of douchebaggery in this thread is astounding. Anything that uses water in the process of cooling the CPU is water cooling. There are various options with some offering better cooling than others, but in the end its still water cooling.

Back to the OP, 73 degrees on a i7 chip is nothing to worry about. Mine hits the low to mid 60s under a prime 95 load when the ambient temp is 20 degrees. I also cool a 4870X2 in the same loop and only have a dual radiator, but unless it hits 80 degrees I'm not going to start worrying.

Anytime you remove the heatsink off of a CPU you should clean it off and re-apply the TIM. This should help your problem and if it was a serious problem you should see significant temperature drops.
 
I think 70-75C is pretty high for a H50 at 3.6Ghz.

Those are my absolute highest linx load temps at 4Ghz with a Tuniq Tower, which is nowhere near one of the best air cooling heatsinks.
 
weuntouchable said:
The level of douchebaggery in this thread is astounding. Anything that uses water in the process of cooling the CPU is water cooling. There are various options with some offering better cooling than others, but in the end its still water cooling.
Click to expand...

Calling an H50 a watercooling setup is like calling a heatpipe based air cooler a phase change setup.

OP, reapply TIM.
 
nissanztt90 said:
Calling an H50 a watercooling setup is like calling a heatpipe based air cooler a phase change setup.

OP, reapply TIM.
Click to expand...

Check out my air cooling

DSC_1472.JPG


Its the same damn thing with longer tubing, and the radiator no longer needs to function as a res
 
Doubl3KiLL said:
Check out my air cooling

DSC_1472.JPG


Its the same damn thing with longer tubing, and the radiator no longer needs to function as a res
Click to expand...

Nowhere does my comment say that the H50 is not watercooling.

Or are you going to tell me heatpipes arent phase change?

The H50 is as much of a watercooler as a heatpipe based air cooler is a phase change cooler. And you dont see people with heatpipe based air coolers saying they have phase change, do you?
 
Thats not what I'm saying at all, however every single person in this thread understand that the H50 uses a pump, a cold plate, a radiator (which also serves as its reservoir).

A heatpipe cooler is a combination of phase change and thermal conduction, so its not strictly phase change, where as the H50 is, strictly, a water cooling loop, condensed in size and sealed.

In terms of the H50 arguement, the proper analogy would be more along the lines of: "The Canon Powershot is not a camera, because its not a DSLR"

It obviously is a camera, with differences and smaller and more compact to make it easier to use.
 
I'm at 1.33v on the CPU, with the rest of the settings stock.
Click to expand...

1.33v for a 3.6Ghz overclock is way overkill. (My 920 can do that on about 1.1v, d0 stepping)

And can't we all just agree the H50/H70 is watercooling, it's just not good watercooling?
 
Crispy002 said:
1.33v for a 3.6Ghz overclock is way overkill. (My 920 can do that on about 1.1v, d0 stepping)

And can't we all just agree the H50/H70 is watercooling, it's just not good watercooling?
Click to expand...

1.33v may be what his chip needs to get to 3.6Ghz. Not all i7 920s are created equally. Mine takes 1.3v to reach 3.6Ghz and 1.4v to reach 3.8Ghz.
 
Doubl3KiLL said:
Thats not what I'm saying at all, however every single person in this thread understand that the H50 uses a pump, a cold plate, a radiator (which also serves as its reservoir).

A heatpipe cooler is a combination of phase change and thermal conduction, so its not strictly phase change, where as the H50 is, strictly, a water cooling loop, condensed in size and sealed.

In terms of the H50 arguement, the proper analogy would be more along the lines of: "The Canon Powershot is not a camera, because its not a DSLR"

It obviously is a camera, with differences and smaller and more compact to make it easier to use.
Click to expand...

Every cooler uses thermal conduction, and most use convection as well. Your analogy makes zero sense. The H50 is a watercooler, and heatpipe tech uses phase change. Both work under principles of thermal conduction, and convection.
 
Doubl3KiLL said:
n00b rage thread.



Have you used either? I went through a couple air cooling heatsinks before I got the H50 and it is, indeed, a superior cooler when used properly. My temps were very similar at idle, but at load I was around 9-11*C cooler with the H50. At 4.2Ghz, air cooling just flat out did not cut it. I was seeing 99* after extended periods of testing. The H50 (in stock form) had me at around the 88-90 range. Currently my H50 has me around the 68-71 range.



It is good practice to re-apply the TIM each time you remove and replace a cooler. Despite your finds of not seeing any difference, it should not be recommended at all that it is "not a big deal", not only to save time of having to take it off when it was in fact necessary, but just because it is common knowledge that it introduces air gaps into your interface. It's just half-assed to not do it.
Click to expand...

I don't know what kind of crappy air coolers you were using, but if you look at all the performance tests, the H50/H70 perform in line with air coolers IN THEIR PRICE RANGE, AS I EXPLICITLY STATED IN MY POST. The $100 H70 is approximately equal to the $100 Noctua NH-D14. And of course, properly putting on air coolers will also make a difference in temps. Now, talking about sale prices, that's a completely different story. I'm talking MSRP here.

Now, about my TIM. Maybe it's not making a huge difference because my temps are so low on load (30 C or less). I'm not sure, but here's my experience:

I removed the block once to swap motherboards, and then put it back on. After that, I took the block off, put in a Sempron to reflash the bios (bios somehow got corrupted), and I put the waterblock on the Sempron to cool it during the flashing process. Afterwards, I took out the Sempron and put back in the 1090T. Then, I took it off again because I was swapping motherboards again. Throughout all this, I have seen a change of approximately 2-3 C. I'm not saying it doesn't make a difference, I'm just saying it doesn't make a huge difference. Then again, it could be making a large difference because OP is running at such high temps.
 
kounterfiat said:
please what kind of watercooling if your using an h50/h70 im going to blow my ffing brains out, h70 is not watercooling
Click to expand...

lulz... Better chamber up..

Just because its come preassembled doesnt mean its not WC.. My H50 fits perfectly in my case, does an excellent job on my X6 with push/pull Gentle Typhoons, and I spent less than 60$... Why u mad bro? That little kit works freakin wonders... cept for op, but only cause he failed at reapplication of T-Paste, or at least respreading..
 
Evil Juggalo said:
lulz... Better chamber up..

Just because its come preassembled doesnt mean its not WC.. My H50 fits perfectly in my case, does an excellent job on my X6 with push/pull Gentle Typhoons, and I spent less than 60$... Why u mad bro? That little kit works freakin wonders... cept for op, but only cause he failed at reapplication of T-Paste, or at least respreading..
Click to expand...

Probably because some people see 50C load temps from watercooled PCs and assume any cooler with water in it will do that, lol.

My H50 with twin GTAP15 in push pull barely kept my i7 930 @ 1.28V 3.8GHz under 77C (around early May weather in California Valley for ambients)
 
I dont have an H50/H70, it's a "REAL" Watercooling system. I dont know the specs right now, but its top of the line, as far as a one rad system goes. I will spec it out/take a pic when I get home.

It's a Swiftech Block, to an external 240mm Radiator with 2 120mm fans cooling it, and a nice pump. 3/4" diameter hoses.

I was getting around 60c at load before which I realize isnt great either. Frankly I havent been super impressed with the performance of the system, I have been thinking that maybe my ambients are too high, or that perhaps the system is looped incorrectly. I will take a pic before 7pm central time and we can dissect this mother.

Also, my two cents: An H50/H70 is water cooling.
 
Okay, well... what speed/type are your fans? And what type of radiator are you using? There's lots of radiators out there, telling us that its top-of-the-line tells us absolutely nothing. I have a 1 radiator system, and it's a 3x140, and not the best 3x140 out there. It will beat the crap out of your 2x120 anytime. Size of the hoses have nothing to do with temps, it has been proven. Pump also has very little to do with temps (unless it's so slow to the point of water barely moving through the system).

I'm thinking that this has more to do with improper application of the block. Maybe there's not enough pressure on the block onto the CPU. Maybe it really is the TIM. Redo the TIM and remount the block, and see where that takes you.
 
JDBattleMC said:
I dont have an H50/H70, it's a "REAL" Watercooling system. I dont know the specs right now, but its top of the line, as far as a one rad system goes. I will spec it out/take a pic when I get home.
Click to expand...

A single 120mm rad WC setup is inferior to a decent heatpipe based 120mm air cooler based on some very basic principles of thermodynamics.
 
It's a Rohs radiator (2x120), Swiftech 12V pump, Swiftech GTZ, and a Swiftech reservoir.

Im almost positive that the current "Performance" has to do with the fact that I took the block off, and literally didn't clean it or apply more thermal paste, I just put it back on. I don't know what I was thinking (I was not) as this is not my first rodeo.

While I agree that H20 isn't always a guarantee of good performance (I had a Scythe Ninja that cooled to 24c at load with COLD ambients) I think that its LESS ambient related than air, and it's certainly silent which is important for me.

I was 3.88 stable at 1.35 on my Rampage II, 60c at load. I bought some new thermal paste as I mentioned, and I will update when that gets here and I do a cleaning+reapplication.

Do you guys think that grain of rice in the center and pressing down is a better application on a waterblock than thin spreading the grain of rice before pressing down?
 
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