Wasabi Mango UHD400 40" 4k Display

Does anyone else get bad screen tearing when playing videos in VLC player?

Not a biggie though, since I have since changed to MPC-HC which is for the most part tear-free. It also seems to be much better at upscaling video, and has less jagged edges, Just wondering if it happens to anyone else.

What version of VLC are/were you using? I was on an outdated 2.x that didn't love running on a 4k desktop, but updating to whatever is newest fixed things and it played perfectly. However, the UI scale is waaaaaaay too small - the VLC 3.0 nightlies address that.

Also, try enabling full-panel GPU scaling in your GPU dashboard if you haven't already. That remedied a ton of the weird little bugs I first ran into when making the move to 4k desktop resolution.
 
What version of VLC are/were you using? I was on an outdated 2.x that didn't love running on a 4k desktop, but updating to whatever is newest fixed things and it played perfectly. However, the UI scale is waaaaaaay too small - the VLC 3.0 nightlies address that.

Also, try enabling full-panel GPU scaling in your GPU dashboard if you haven't already. That remedied a ton of the weird little bugs I first ran into when making the move to 4k desktop resolution.

Yep, I was having a few strange issues until I switched over to GPU scaling in the nVidia control panel.
 
After waiting damn near an eternity, ACCESSORIESWHOLE on eBay finally "heard back from the manufacturer" regarding my dead display and mailed me a new "AD board" free of charge. Fedex literally showed up 2 days after they said they'd be shipping it out in the morning. Crazy fast. I can't get stuff shipped from a few states away that quickly... Thing was a bit of a pain to take apart, but all is well in Mango land once again now... mostly...

Is anyone running a GTX 1070/1080 (or maybe even 1060?) over display port with one of these? Any issues? I was running it over DP with GTX 660s when I first received the monitor. Then I went to GTX 1070s, booted up, and as soon as I started installing the latest drivers the screen went black, the monitor went *POP*, and it displayed a message saying it was going into power saving mode. Even after a reboot where I'd see the UEFI flash screen displayed, It would repeatedly cycle through appearing like it was going to work, making the *POP* noise, then displaying the power saving mode message as soon as I got into Windows. I can't remember what I did to get it to work for the life of me, but it worked flawlessly after I got it to display in Windows, even after a driver update. Then it killed itself. Now that I have a functioning monitor again, it's doing the same damn thing. HDMI works fine, DP is a no-go. I can only get 8 bit color over HDMI, so I'd like DP to work... but the noises the monitor repeatedly admits when DP fails to work for whatever mysterious reason freaks me out after having the monitor die on me shortly after upgrading my GPUs last time.

EDIT: Nevermind, I had to boot over HDMI, plug in DP, extend display to DP input as a "second display", switch DP input to primary display, then unplug the HDMI cable. All is well now. Curious to hear if anyone else has experienced such insanity...
 
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I've been drooling over this monitor for a while, but the main thing holding me back... Is the PWM backlight. But I find it hard to tell how prominent and visible strobing like this really is. I have very little experience with PWM backlit screens, but I very clearly prefer smooth stability over flickery choppy movement, and I even notice the flicker of LED based lightbulbs. I don't like it.

is there a "suckyness scale" for PWM in different monitors? :p
 
After waiting damn near an eternity, ACCESSORIESWHOLE on eBay finally "heard back from the manufacturer" regarding my dead display and mailed me a new "AD board" free of charge. Fedex literally showed up 2 days after they said they'd be shipping it out in the morning. Crazy fast. I can't get stuff shipped from a few states away that quickly... Thing was a bit of a pain to take apart, but all is well in Mango land once again now... mostly...

Is anyone running a GTX 1070/1080 (or maybe even 1060?) over display port with one of these? Any issues? I was running it over DP with GTX 660s when I first received the monitor. Then I went to GTX 1070s, booted up, and as soon as I started installing the latest drivers the screen went black, the monitor went *POP*, and it displayed a message saying it was going into power saving mode. Even after a reboot where I'd see the UEFI flash screen displayed, It would repeatedly cycle through appearing like it was going to work, making the *POP* noise, then displaying the power saving mode message as soon as I got into Windows. I can't remember what I did to get it to work for the life of me, but it worked flawlessly after I got it to display in Windows, even after a driver update. Then it killed itself. Now that I have a functioning monitor again, it's doing the same damn thing. HDMI works fine, DP is a no-go. I can only get 8 bit color over HDMI, so I'd like DP to work... but the noises the monitor repeatedly admits when DP fails to work for whatever mysterious reason freaks me out after having the monitor die on me shortly after upgrading my GPUs last time.

EDIT: Nevermind, I had to boot over HDMI, plug in DP, extend display to DP input as a "second display", switch DP input to primary display, then unplug the HDMI cable. All is well now. Curious to hear if anyone else has experienced such insanity...


I have a Strix 1080. The only weird issue I have is my desktop icons moving over to my primary monitor(the Mango) from my secondary monitor when I wake from sleep. It's not every time but it does happen.
I'm using a 6 foot DP cable for the Mango, and DVI-D for my other mon. Is it true that over hdmi we would only get 8 bit color? Is that a limitation of hdmi, or the UHD400?
 
What version of VLC are/were you using? I was on an outdated 2.x that didn't love running on a 4k desktop, but updating to whatever is newest fixed things and it played perfectly. However, the UI scale is waaaaaaay too small - the VLC 3.0 nightlies address that.

Also, try enabling full-panel GPU scaling in your GPU dashboard if you haven't already. That remedied a ton of the weird little bugs I first ran into when making the move to 4k desktop resolution.
My VLC is version 2.2.2 Weatherwax. I should update it. I didn't think to for some reason lol.

In Nvidia Control Panel, if I try to change it to GPU and click Apply, it just goes back to Display.
 
I've been drooling over this monitor for a while, but the main thing holding me back... Is the PWM backlight. But I find it hard to tell how prominent and visible strobing like this really is. I have very little experience with PWM backlit screens, but I very clearly prefer smooth stability over flickery choppy movement, and I even notice the flicker of LED based lightbulbs. I don't like it.

is there a "suckyness scale" for PWM in different monitors? :p
I have had a few monitors that drove me bonkers with the flickering. This monitor apparently does have PWM, but it is a very high frequency. I have had zero issues with headaches or strobing. And I use this monitor at least 6 hours a day on work days. Just my .02
 
After waiting damn near an eternity, ACCESSORIESWHOLE on eBay finally "heard back from the manufacturer" regarding my dead display and mailed me a new "AD board" free of charge. Fedex literally showed up 2 days after they said they'd be shipping it out in the morning. Crazy fast. I can't get stuff shipped from a few states away that quickly... Thing was a bit of a pain to take apart, but all is well in Mango land once again now... mostly...

Is anyone running a GTX 1070/1080 (or maybe even 1060?) over display port with one of these? Any issues? I was running it over DP with GTX 660s when I first received the monitor. Then I went to GTX 1070s, booted up, and as soon as I started installing the latest drivers the screen went black, the monitor went *POP*, and it displayed a message saying it was going into power saving mode. Even after a reboot where I'd see the UEFI flash screen displayed, It would repeatedly cycle through appearing like it was going to work, making the *POP* noise, then displaying the power saving mode message as soon as I got into Windows. I can't remember what I did to get it to work for the life of me, but it worked flawlessly after I got it to display in Windows, even after a driver update. Then it killed itself. Now that I have a functioning monitor again, it's doing the same damn thing. HDMI works fine, DP is a no-go. I can only get 8 bit color over HDMI, so I'd like DP to work... but the noises the monitor repeatedly admits when DP fails to work for whatever mysterious reason freaks me out after having the monitor die on me shortly after upgrading my GPUs last time.

EDIT: Nevermind, I had to boot over HDMI, plug in DP, extend display to DP input as a "second display", switch DP input to primary display, then unplug the HDMI cable. All is well now. Curious to hear if anyone else has experienced such insanity...
I have a 1070. I had everything unplugged, and plugged this in via a monoprice 10ft DP cable I had. No issues at all. Me previous main display (which is not secondary) also used DP though.
 
I have had a few monitors that drove me bonkers with the flickering. This monitor apparently does have PWM, but it is a very high frequency. I have had zero issues with headaches or strobing. And I use this monitor at least 6 hours a day on work days. Just my .02

Nice! Has anyone here seen one of these and gone "ugh, flicker!" At all? Has anyone heard of someone who couldn't stand the PWM on one (and not just someone who went "oh ew, PWM!" Like I have been soing lately?)
 
Nice! Has anyone here seen one of these and gone "ugh, flicker!" At all? Has anyone heard of someone who couldn't stand the PWM on one (and not just someone who went "oh ew, PWM!" Like I have been soing lately?)
If that were the case you'd see it all over the internet. The internet is a place all about pointing out the negatives.

Not to mention multiple people here have the monitor and I haven't read any major complaints with flicker
 
The only time I have noticed PWM flicker is when I realized that the monitor causes a stroboscopic effect on the box fan in my room, indicating that the light source was strobing at some very high frequency. Someone smarter than I could probably rig up something use this to approximate the PWM frequency. I'm just happy to see physical confirmation that yes, this monitor uses PWM and no, I'm not one of the unlucky few who can notice it with the naked eye.
 
I don't remember the exact frequency, but some where I saw the test and the result for the pwm. It was during my weeks of research before buying the monitor.
 
The only time I have noticed PWM flicker is when I realized that the monitor causes a stroboscopic effect on the box fan in my room, indicating that the light source was strobing at some very high frequency. Someone smarter than I could probably rig up something use this to approximate the PWM frequency. I'm just happy to see physical confirmation that yes, this monitor uses PWM and no, I'm not one of the unlucky few who can notice it with the naked eye.

You know, that actually reminds me that many of the lights in my room are flickering like that. You can't see it at all, unless you shake something and look at the movement.
 
You know, that actually reminds me that many of the lights in my room are flickering like that. You can't see it at all, unless you shake something and look at the movement.

Technically all of the lights in your room should be flickering at 60hz (or 50hz if your in EU), unless you're using incandescents with slow glow filaments or LEDs with extremely good rectification and DC smoothing caps. :p :D
 
Technically all of the lights in your room should be flickering at 60hz (or 50hz if your in EU), unless you're using incandescents with slow glow filaments or LEDs with extremely good rectification and DC smoothing caps. :p :D

Exactly. And you don't see it flicker. I did a slow motion video of my LED bulbs to check, and they don't get completely dark before they flash again between pulses, so there's a certain "slop" to it. So while the pulse frequency might not be great, the pulse DEPTH isn't bad at all.
 
Hi everyone ! I have this monitor since 12 days and i'm happy with the quality since this morning...

When i turn on my screen with the computer : in the first time it was good like usual but after 1h hour my screen flicked and progressivly a shiny light appear over the colors and texts ! The light didn't change with the inputs and stay with a full black screen ! Sometimes when put my finger an with a little pressure on the screen the light dissapear and the screen go normal like nothing happened...( no scan lines , no flicked and no light )
Did i have a serious problem and do i should take a refund quickly, or can i fix this problem ?

When i write this lines, no problems at all !

(and sorry for my english, i'm french so ... :) )
20160728_120421.jpg 20160728_120359.jpg
 
Hi everyone ! I have this monitor since 12 days and i'm happy with the quality since this morning...

When i turn on my screen with the computer : in the first time it was good like usual but after 1h hour my screen flicked and progressivly a shiny light appear over the colors and texts ! The light didn't change with the inputs and stay with a full black screen ! Sometimes when put my finger an with a little pressure on the screen the light dissapear and the screen go normal like nothing happened...( no scan lines , no flicked and no light )
Did i have a serious problem and do i should take a refund quickly, or can i fix this problem ?

When i write this lines, no problems at all !

(and sorry for my english, i'm french so ... :) )
View attachment 5939 View attachment 5940
I have had no such issues. I would start a refund.
 
Hi everyone ! I have this monitor since 12 days and i'm happy with the quality since this morning...

When i turn on my screen with the computer : in the first time it was good like usual but after 1h hour my screen flicked and progressivly a shiny light appear over the colors and texts ! The light didn't change with the inputs and stay with a full black screen ! Sometimes when put my finger an with a little pressure on the screen the light dissapear and the screen go normal like nothing happened...( no scan lines , no flicked and no light )
Did i have a serious problem and do i should take a refund quickly, or can i fix this problem ?

When i write this lines, no problems at all !

(and sorry for my english, i'm french so ... :) )
View attachment 5939 View attachment 5940

Looks to me like a serious problem with the backlight. Ask for a refund before it's too late...
 
I brought this monitor recently from AccessoriesWhole and I have some dead and defective pixels even though I picked the Pixel Perfect Version.

Perfect Pixel WASABI MANGO UHD400 REAL 4K HDMI 2.0 40" Samsung PVA Panel Monitor

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I have contacted the seller asking for a partial refund. I will see how that goes and keep you guys updated about that.

So far my initial impressions have been quite good. I will write a small review with some pictures once I have used this panel more and have properly calibrated it using my colorimeter.

Also as other people said, there is definitely PWM at anything lower than 100 brightness, but it's at such a high rate of 150Hz or higher that you don't even notice it. A bit of misadvertising by Wasabi Mango there with their flicker free, but it's definitely not the worse I seen, in fact far from it even at 0 brightness.
 
Ok, here is my experience/mini review and some observations I made after 1.5 days of usage. I will mainly be covering monitor/calibration settings and latency test using various options.

I brought the Wasabi Mango UHD400 from AccessoriesWhole exactly last week, and it took till the end of the 5th business day before it arrived at my doorstep in Perth, Australia. As I mentioned in my previous post, I brought the Pixel Perfect listing, though my monitor has 4+ defective pixels and about 1 or 2 dead pixels as you can see in a picture above. I’m not going to complain about it in this review, but just a warning that you may get defective pixels even if you purchase the pixel perfect option. (Save yourself some cash and get the normal listing)

9dbdb6dca5.jpg

The monitor itself was configured in English out of the box and my GPU (ASUS Nvidia Geforce GTX 680) did not list the 60Hz option when ran in 4K and ran the latest firmware (Real4K0222VS).

d3471badc2.png

I had to create a custom resolution profile to force the panel to run in 60Hz. It also supports YCbCr444 colour format, the actual 4:4:4 Chroma subset which is great.

eaeafa0357.png

The panel out of the box has one of the worse calibrations I’ve seen in any monitor. The picture modes that came with the panels are trash and the whitepoint has a very blue/green tint colour, even at 6500K setting mode. The good news is the panel is actually very decent to use after calibration, it has roughly 100% sRGB gamut coverage (my one measured at 98.3%), which is nice. Most good panels these days are 100% sRGB, so it’s nothing to be impressed with. It has 68% Adobe RGB gamut coverage, which is pretty average with the other panels in today’s market. (Though you can’t really expect a TV 4K panel to have more than 100% sRGB)

(Calibration done by DisplayCAL 3.1.4.0 and X-Rite Colorimeter)

Monitor settings:
Brightness: 100
Contrast: 75
Saturation: 60
Hue: 50
Gamma: 2.2
Aspect Ratio: 1:1
DCR: Off
Color Bypass: Off
Picture Bypass: Off
Noise Reduction: Off
Super Resolution: Off
Color Temperature: User
Red: 100
Green: 76
Blue: 68
Response Time: Off
Freesync: Off
(I don’t have AMD GPU)

3ade3f1667.png

6519f3e8fd.jpg

HTML measurement report output:

Measurement Report 3.1.4 — KJT4K2K60DP @ 0, 0, 3840x2160 — 2016-07-31 05:46:27

Calibration files:

http://puu.sh/qkWX6/98cad31e5c.zip

(I recommend installing it using DisplayCAL, as it handles installing ICM a lot better than Windows does and also use my monitor settings if you do)

I should note that if you have a colorimeter it is better to calibrate it yourself, as every panel is different (colour wise).

Also, I will post a new calibration after a month or two of usage. As the colour of a panel changes over time.

Interesting observations when calibrating:

Monitor by default is set to at 50 Saturation, however at 50 Saturation you actually lose some Gamut Coverage.

bdf552c88c.png

98.3% sRGB vs 94.2% sRGB

At 60 Saturation, the colours look closer to my IPS panel and pops out a bit more. Though it does not have the colour clarity of an IPS panel, but however has no IPS glow (though my panel has a bit of backlight bleeding, but nothing too serious to even notice) and blacks look way darker as the contrast ratio is impressively high as it is a VA panel.

Latency wise, with all image processing turned off and response time turned off. It’s about 16ms slower than my TN Panel (TN panel is about 16-17ms slower than a CRT). So you’re looking at a latency of about 30-40ms compared to a CRT panel.

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With response time enabled, the results are way worse than with it off:
18c023cab9.jpg

b9cd161e50.jpg

33ms and 18ms.

With response time enabled, you suffer from more severe ghosting and is far more noticeable than initially:

With response time ON:
343ff82930.jpg

With response time OFF:
0d2d2ed928.jpg

Wasabi Mango UHD400 notes/issues & weird quirks:

Monitor’s metal frame where the logo is located gets very hot.

Panel is semi-glossy, not true matte.

Picture bypass just turns off Noise Reduction and Super Resolution. (Greys them out) Leaving them all off is best if you’re not upscaling.

Colour bypass turns off Whitepoint Color tab, I do not recommend you turning it on. Better to let the monitor handle Whitepoint as it’s more accurate than using your GPU.

Image picture processing doesn’t impact latency, at least with the 20+ photos I have taken using various different settings.

Response Time enabled can impact latency, making it slower at times and causing visible ghosting. (Useless feature, DO NOT USE).

Need to increase Saturation to get more gamut coverage.

Really bad colour calibration out of the factory.

It is not flicker free, it has PWM, though I use 100% brightness so I don’t really notice it.

350cd/m^2 is BS, after calibration using those above settings, at best it’s 195cd/m^2 (hence why I use 100 brightness, at least it’s flicker free, amirite? xD). It’s about 300cd/m^2 with default whitepoint colour settings with 100% brightness.

Final thoughts and conclusion:

Overall, I’m quite happy with the Wasabi Mango UHD400. The build quality is a lot higher than I expected and the panel after proper colour calibration is quite the joy to the eyes. Though with only 1.5-2 days of usage, I cannot say much more other than what I have done tested so far with the monitor. I will however say, it’s a great monitor at this price point, but please do keep in mind with the issues I described above before making your purchase.

I know this isn’t a full review of the monitor, but however I do hope I helped out a few people with this mini review.

My final setup:
b0877f8ffc.jpg

If you have any questions regarding the monitor, feel free to ask them and I will try my best to reply.
 
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I don't remember if it was covered in this thread or not, but is the input lag any better if you set the res to 1080p? I don't think I would run this at 4k unless I had media at that resolution, and I certainly don't see myself gaming at 4k.
 
I don't remember if it was covered in this thread or not, but is the input lag any better if you set the res to 1080p? I don't think I would run this at 4k unless I had media at that resolution, and I certainly don't see myself gaming at 4k.
No, it's not better at 1080p. It's exactly the same latency as 4K. I tested the latency you see above as 1080p, a monitor's latency does not get better with lower resolution, if the panel is 16ms then the latency is 16ms on all resolutions.
 
Great news! AccessoriesWhole gave me a partial refund of the difference between the non pixel perfect listing and the pixel perfect listing which is $73USD.

Overall I'm very happy with the support they offered, they were very fast with their response and processed the refund straight away.

Definitely the seller to buy from!
 
The monitor itself was configured in English out of the box and my GPU (ASUS Nvidia Geforce GTX 680) did not list the 60Hz option when ran in 4K and ran the latest firmware (Real4K0222VS).

The latest firmware is 0405VS which Spidey329 referenced on page 4.
 
Thanks for your review and hard work WaveZero. I've adjusted my settings and so far I like what I see. So far I'm really liking this monitor. Having a 1080 to drive it really helps. So far, it kills every game I have a max settings and gives me the visual quality this display was meant to have.
 
Might give it a go, also might check the firmware. There's a May 6 release for this model on the Korean site.

My initial run with the i1 Display Pro and ADC turned on jacked the brightness to 100, but I redid it manually at a lower luminance as I don't like running full brightness as to not wear the screen out. However, I did buy the extra warranty, so I might as well just push the sucker.

I have the exact same band problem on mine. I think the firmware update made it better, but I might just be going crazy. It's definitely still there, but I think the bars are less offensive.

My entire setup is on a SurgeX SMP power conditioner, so I think I can safely rule out power line noise as the cause of this.
 
The latest firmware is 0405VS which Spidey329 referenced on page 4.
Ah yes, I updated soon after the review, when I looked through this thread. I don't notice anything different though with this firmware and the old. There isn't any changelog , so it's really hard to say what changed without guessing.

Thanks for your review and hard work WaveZero. I've adjusted my settings and so far I like what I see. So far I'm really liking this monitor. Having a 1080 to drive it really helps. So far, it kills every game I have a max settings and gives me the visual quality this display was meant to have.
No worries, it's just a quick mini review I wrote up with some images.

I do have the cash for a GTX 1080, though I really don't want to spend it on it. In my opinion it's a bit overpriced as it's on a new architecture and fab, I'm willing to wait another year before upgrading my GPU, hopefully HBM2.0 will be out by then.
 
I was so many gens behind I was looking for a 980ti in May, but the prices were very high still. After getting this monitor and seeing how it was crippling my 7970, I had to scale down for some of my games. It bothered me enough to become more active in looking for a replacement VC. When the 1080 came out, I made my move. My other thought was to hold off till Vega, but then I'd have to use this mon scaled down for another 6 months possibly. Bit by the upgrade bug. The thing that hurt this time was the USD to CDN dollar weren't even close to each other.
 
I was so many gens behind I was looking for a 980ti in May, but the prices were very high still. After getting this monitor and seeing how it was crippling my 7970, I had to scale down for some of my games. It bothered me enough to become more active in looking for a replacement VC. When the 1080 came out, I made my move. My other thought was to hold off till Vega, but then I'd have to use this mon scaled down for another 6 months possibly. Bit by the upgrade bug. The thing that hurt this time was the USD to CDN dollar weren't even close to each other.

The Radeon HD 7970 is still quite a good card, I wish I brought that over my GTX 680 all those years back. Since you could still do some light 4K gaming and some 1440p as well. I believe the 7970 has a larger frame buffer 4GB vs my shitty 2GB. 2GB VRAM chokes MadVR when upscaling 1080p to 4K with maxed out VRAM usage, I have to drop settings on MadVR and trade quality for performance.

I wish AMD Vega would just drop now, or HBM2.0 right now. I would've brought one of those cards straight away!
 
Just wondering does any buyer of the Wasabi Mango live in the EU and has the state taken duty and VAT? And/or has the carrier taken fat fees for possessing it through customs?
 
I narrowed my choices down to UHD400, AMH A399U, A409U, Seiki SM40UNP and the Microboard B400. Based on reviews and forum posts I decided to get the UHD400 through Amazon.com from 7daysdirect.
 
I have had this monitor for a few days, but my eyes seem to being having a problem with PWM. Is there any low brighness setting that would disable PWM on this monitor? I have tried running at 100% brightness but my eyes cannot take that. Any help would be appreciated. Thanks.
 
I have had this monitor for a few days, but my eyes seem to being having a problem with PWM. Is there any low brighness setting that would disable PWM on this monitor? I have tried running at 100% brightness but my eyes cannot take that. Any help would be appreciated. Thanks.
Try my settings, it's 100% brightness but the whitepoint colour levels are lowered (roughly 195 CD/m^2 vs ~300 CD/m^2 at default settings). Though I do recommend you use my calibration file as well using DisplayCAL to install the profile.

As I mentioned above, lowering your whitepoint colours also reduces brightness and you can run the monitor at 100% brightness like I do.
 
Wavezero,

Thanks for the information. Is there a way to convert your DisplayCAL profile into a Windows friendly profile I could inject into Windows 10. Apologize for the newbie question.
 
Wavezero,

Thanks for the information. Is there a way to convert your DisplayCAL profile into a Windows friendly profile I could inject into Windows 10. Apologize for the newbie question.
I either phased my response wrong or you misunderstood. The colour calibration profile can be installed using Windows 10 via Colour Management from Control Panel. You do not need DisplayCAL to install the profile, but it is the best way to install it. As Windows does a poor job or handling colour calibration profiles compared to DisplayCAL, plus DisplayCAL will make sure the colour calibration profile sticks after every restart and whenever it gets reset by another program.

As I said before, I recommend you use DisplayCAL, it's the best solution and most easy to use as well. Please view my review above for the settings and when installing make sure it is like this:
0131853cfd.png
 
I placed an order for the Perfect Pixel UHD400 monitor on a Sunday on Amazon from 7DaysDirect and received it on Tuesday. This was from S. Korea to US. Very fast shipping like everyone else mentioned. Beautiful picture and colors and I didn't notice any flickering, but to my disappointment I noticed two groups of dead pixels fairly center of the screen. I have contacted 7DaysDirect about this and they have offered me a partial refund which I have declined. I ordered a Perfect Pixel model and that's all I want. They said they will send me a return label in which they will give me a full refund. I'm a little put off on this and I'm reluctant to place another order. If I do get another Perfect Pixel model and it is indeed without dead pixels would there be a likelihood of dead pixels developing in the future? Has anyone had dead pixels develop over time after they verified their Perfect Pixel model?
 
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