Visual and Performance issues after 4 different PC builds with different parts over 4 months (Need Help!)

crebain

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Joined
Mar 25, 2021
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Current Build-

· EVGA Ultra 3070

· Ryzen 3900X

· Gskill ripjaws 5 3600mhz

· Asus X570 gaming E motherboard

· Corsair RM850x 80 gold PSU

· Samsung 970 Evo 1TB M.2 drive

· Lian Li lancool mesh 2 Performance case

· LG 27GL83A-B Monitor

Hi all,

So I’ve been on a 4 month journey through the course of 4 fresh PC builds, all of them showing the same exact symptoms. I am at a loss for what to do next. I’ve paid many diagnostic fees along the way and as a last ditch effort, I have come to you, the experts on the internet.

I started with these parts for my first build:

· 3900x Ryzen

· 1070 Nvidia Founders Edition

· Gskill ripjaws 5 3600mhz

· Asus Rog strix B550 F gaming Wifi edition motherboard

· Lian Li lancool mesh 2 Performance case

· Corsair Rm750 80 gold PSU

· 970 Evo 1 TB m.2 drive



I had a “professional” give this first build a looking-over. Soon after, I started experiencing some strange visual and performance inconsistencies. I have done every bit of troubleshooting that can be found on the internet through these 4 builds, from DDU and driver installation, Control Panel and Windows tweaking to flashing every MOBO Bios I’ve had, and running XMP. I bought 4 different monitors, switched out all parts with fresh ones over the 4 builds and checked house voltage with a meter and live readout, etc., etc.)

LIST OF ISSUES AND THOUGHTS:



- Extreme Pixelization
Fizzlely imagery which looks like if you had a low resolution monitor and could see individual pixels in certain areas of games and Windows programs. This very distracting effect is the worst offender amongst all of the problems and is apparent in all apps. Whip panning in games causes things like a character’s hair to fizzle and fall apart along with any fine details.


- Mushy and Low Resolution Looking Imagery Blurry imagery with heavy macro blocking and what looks akin to someone taking a 480p video and blowing it up to 4k with a sharpening filter. Within my games all the detail is gone or washed over and almost clayish looking. There are also dancing black particles and black shadows. Text is blurry but edges have an over-sharpened look and create dancing edges within games and internet and no, clear type doesn’t fix jagged text in Windows either. In games like Overwatch, loading screen or character pictures and figures do not have the crispness and come off blurry with everything set to max along with all the other programs. My Macbook Pro on the same game has a much richer and better looking image at much lower settings.


-Visual Abstractions Rocket launcher smoke trail in Doom Eternal on a PC just completely loses it vs my PS4 original side-by-side which looks nice and clean.


-Banding Occurs in menu gradients, skyboxes or anything else with a gradient. Whether it is a gradient inside the Steam app or a picture that has a gradient, it will fall apart into large stripes stepping from darkest shade to next lighter shade and so on. This also applies to gaming skyboxes where a blue sky blocks up into bands.


-Bad Aliasing or Jaggies within all games and within Windows itself. Even with control panel set to max AA, both in game and forced mode. Edges of everything from YouTube videos with a man wearing a textured shirt to something more simple like the edge of a YouTube creator’s hairline dancing around only gets worse as I turn the resolution up. Windows scaling issues, anyone? I am not sure if this has anything to do with the PC performance in games though.



Inside games with all the different AAs turned to max none of them seem to literally change anything when it comes to edges of weapons, trees, iron grate flooring and much simpler things to render without jagged edges. These show up in a much more pronounced way than on my other computers that I have owned playing the same games.


- Flickering shadows and shimmering of shiny surfaces fall apart. Patterned shadows that dance in unnatural ways, wet surfaces in games tend to shimmer in an aliased way.

- Stuttering From new games to old (e.g. 16 bit Doom clones), I get pretty nasty frame times and full-on frame drops. For example, today booting up Doom Eternal during the Bethesda video logo, it was blurry and for a good half-second it stuttered before recovering. This happens during gameplay quite often and I’m aware this is normal if you are running demanding applications but this isn’t Premiere Pro and I’m running a 3070 and 3900x on very well optimized games like Doom Eternal. I still see consistent temps at or around 72C… not horrible but this occurs even during easy tasks.



- Coil Whine? Over past 4 builds all of them have had noisy PSUs and graphics cards which could just be fresh parts or the parts being over-stressed. With my graphics card no matter what lame game I run it is always at VOLTAGE LIMIT, PWR LIMIT, VOP… lets say running a game like Prodeus.


-Pop in and slow load-in of assets Lots of this has been seen a handful of times in recent benchmarks like 3dmark and plenty of times in Heaven benchmark set to 1440p, maxed out on a 3070 and an m.2 drive. Also, lots of aliasing and shadow dancing although I’ve heard that might be the case for other users also in Heaven benchmark.


-Wrap Up After experiencing all of these issues I was told to replace certain components over and over. With every build I started fresh, ending up with a pair of 3070s, a 1070, different motherboards (both made by Asus), 2 3900xs and 4 power supplies. Usually I was told the issue was either the PSU or the Graphics card, both of which I have ruled out. I have started with an RM750 Corsair, swapped to a Rog Strix Asus 750w, then to 2 new RM850x Corsair (all 80 gold) units.



I’m thinking the problem lies with software. This could most likely be that Asus BIOS doesn’t play well with Ryzen. Or, something is wrong in the stock software settings, creating possible voltage issues that have led to all of these visual aberrations and performance issues. Maybe Windows on top of that? What do you think?



Attached are pictures and videos of everything discussed above. Thanks for any help you can offer!

VIDEO THAT DISPLAYS ALL PROBLEMS IN A MUCH CLEARER WAY THAN TEXT (Make sure to fullscreen):



Tested full PC setup at friends house to try and rule out my house as a potential problem:
 

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If you're having consistent issues with all your builds, a few things to consider:
  • Is your copy of Windows legitimate?
  • Where and how are you getting and install drivers for the various components?
  • Are you installing all the platform drivers (NOT software) for your motherboard?
  • Are these issues present after a clean install with drivers (i.e. no additional third-party software other than games)?
  • What third-party programs are you installing and running in the background?
  • How is the quality of the power delivered in your domicile?
  • Have you tested for noise in the line delivery?
Looking at the video and screenshots makes me believe that you are seeing quantization noise. That, combined with the voltage drops and coil whine, makes me strongly suspect that there is an issue with the power being fed to the PC. After eliminating the easy stuff I would definitely check for dirty power in your place of residence.
 
If you're having consistent issues with all your builds, a few things to consider:
  • Is your copy of Windows legitimate?
  • Where and how are you getting and install drivers for the various components?
  • Are you installing all the platform drivers (NOT software) for your motherboard?
  • Are these issues present after a clean install with drivers (i.e. no additional third-party software other than games)?
  • What third-party programs are you installing and running in the background?
  • How is the quality of the power delivered in your domicile?
  • Have you tested for noise in the line delivery?
Looking at the video and screenshots makes me believe that you are seeing quantization noise. That, combined with the voltage drops and coil whine, makes me strongly suspect that there is an issue with the power being fed to the PC. After eliminating the easy stuff I would definitely check for dirty power in your place of residence.
Thanks for the response and help! To answer your questions, here goes:

*Windows 10 64 bit although currently i haven't bought a key as it gets linked to the motherboard if im correct, but its official and from microsofts website and cleanly installed from usb stick (will buy a key once i know the computer is sturdy)

*All drivers have been downloaded from official websites only: Asus Bios, Graphics driver was installed first using DDU then installing the driver from Nvidias website manually (have also done this without DDU), AMD Chipset Drivers, M.2 Samsung Drivers, Realtek, most everything on the Asus download page and Windows update is up to date. Might be one or two off the top of my head im forgetting, but I have a written list I use for each build.

*For (NOT software) drivers? Do you mean Flashing the Bios? I have done that and also I have armory crate, at the moment, which is asus driver updater.

*Are the issues present after clean install? Yes since ive had to build the computer multiple times and format the M.2 a few times ive always started with a clean install of Windows 10, then i would install Bios flash, all component drivers and then after that id try Steam and some different games, without MSI afterburner or anything on, leaving the computer in a flawless state but all the issues shown are still completely present (From the beginning of fresh Windows 10 install).

*Third Party programs that have been installed after clean windows install? GPU Z, MSI Afterburner (dont use it most of the time only for testing after i see an issue, also no overlocking) 3d Mark, Heaven Benchmark. Beyond that its only AMD Ryzen master which i never use and Armory crate. Games wise, currently on the new build i have Gears 5, Prodeus, Doom Eternal, Star Wars Squadrons and last night i downloaded the Oculus App and Steam VR , as the whole reason i built the PC was for Half Life Alyx and heavy video editing in premiere, but the problems were present before all of that.

*How is the quality of my power in my house? So i had the same idea at first thinking it was my house, so i have used a multi meter on my wall outlets and my surge protector, stayed close to i think it was 120v with the lowest ive seen i think was 117v (during live readouts during gaming). I also have a device you can plug into the wall, then plug your device in to it and it will in a live readout tell you what voltage is coming through, and i did that for a couple days as i played overwatch and saw it dip lowest to 117v, but most of the time would stick around 119v to 120v (NOW this doesnt mean like you say that the voltage waves coming in are solid, as i cant read for that, but i will say that ive had computers in the home for 30 years, latest of which i sold, being a 5k imac, 16 inch macbook pro (2020) and a Dell Tower PC in another room and all of these work flawlessly. My new PC though is a beast compared to those in terms of whats inside though.

So my question would be how do i test for noise? Is there a special meter i need to buy that isnt the normal voltage meter? I also agree with you that i think this is all related to voltage in some way, im just not able to nail why though, as ive never had this issue before. I thought maybe it had something to do with how Asus setup bios and voltage control in there between that and Ryzen and the 3070?

Once again thank you so much for your time and help!
 
Did you try different cables to your monitor? Displayport or HDMI?
Yes I've bought and brought back 4 different monitors now, all 1440p 144hz and on each of them have tried both HDMI and DVI (which im currently using). Also have tried the different ports on the graphics card and the MOBO itself which leads to the exact same problems. I also tried using my old 1080p monitor through hdmi to see if a lower resolution monitor would change anything and it didn't.

Thanks a bunch for the help!
 
Are you using Geforce Experience? Have you tried older drivers for the 1070? I'm using 446.14 with no issues on my 1070ti. Which version of Windows, 20H2? Try redownloading the image and/or use the Media Creation tool to make the install media.
 
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Are you using Geforce Experience? Have you tried older drivers for the 1070? I'm using 446.14 with no issues on my 1070ti.
I did use geforce experience on one of the older builds but since then have only manually installed the current driver for the 3070. The 1070 was in the first build and i actually just sold it for 450 bucks its insane what people are paying right now. I thought similar about going backwards to older drivers but the 3070 is pretty much only new drivers. Oculus has tons of problems with Steam Vr games now also due to oculus new drivers and new windows 10 updates, but since ive swapped out every part in the computer multiple times it has to lie somewhere deeper than that. Whatever is controlling power is having problems across both the B550 Asus MOBOs i had and the X570 Asus Mobo. Long answer haha.

Thanks for the help!
 
try different video card....if proper drivers on new os install dont fix the issues shown then its hardware issue with the card.....hell of a time to need a new video card unfortunately. kinda looks like cards vram is going bad.
 
try different video card....if proper drivers on new os install dont fix the issues shown then its hardware issue with the card.....hell of a time to need a new video card unfortunately. kinda looks like cards vram is going bad.
Thats why i actually had EVGA replace the 3070 with another new one though. So basically on the current build ive tried 2 new 3070s with good drivers and the 1070 before i sold it. On the second build also brought it to a computer repair service in town on the second build and they also tried their own good video card and the visual stuff persisted in windows (they didnt work on it for very long though). So it cant be the graphics card going bad unless something outside of it damaged it.
 
Are you using a UPS? If so, which one and what specs? If not, try a Cyberpower simulated sinwave version, 800w or more MAH doesn't matter.
https://www.amazon.com/CyberPower-CP1350PFCLCD-Sinewave-Outlets-Mini-Tower/dp/B00429N19M
No I've used a surge protector strip and straight into the wall both of which dont change anything (do you need to buy a UPS nowadays just for a computer to run right?). Im using a Corsair RM850x 80 gold right now. Then the last 3 power supplies before that were RM750 Corsair, Asus Rog 750W 80 gold and another RM850x Corsair before i RMAed it and got a fresh replacement for this build which didnt solve the issues. (All fully modular)

Controlling voltages and things is a bit new to me so thanks for the help!
 
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Thats why i actually had EVGA replace the 3070 with another new one though. So basically on the current build ive tried 2 new 3070s with good drivers and the 1070 before i sold it. On the second build also brought it to a computer repair service in town on the second build and they also tried their own good video card and the visual stuff persisted in windows (they didnt work on it for very long though). So it cant be the graphics card going bad unless something outside of it damaged it.
must have missed over the part where you already tried a new card and its late here.....hmmmm
 
No I've used a surge protector strip and straight into the wall both of which dont change anything (do you need to buy a UPS nowadays just for a computer to run right?). Im using a Corsair RM850x 80 gold right now. Then the last 3 power supplies before that were RM750 Corsair, Asus Rog 750W 80 gold and another RM850x Corsair before i RMAed it and got a fresh replacement for this build which didnt solve the issues. (All fully modular)

Controlling voltages and things is a bit new to me so thanks for the help!
Well if you have some weird current issue soming out of the wall, a good AVC and PFC capable UPS can isolate them. Basically, if the AVC and PFC does not "fix" the issue when plugged in, you can unplug it and see if running on battery would fix it.
 
must have missed over the part where you already tried a new card and its late here.....hmmmm
Oh also to add to that, EVGA when they got the card after giving me the replacement told me today that the original card passed all their tests and that it was fine. So apparently I replaced it for no reason haha.

Thanks for the help
 
Well if you have some weird current issue soming out of the wall, a good AVC and PFC capable UPS can isolate them. Basically, if the AVC and PFC does not "fix" the issue when plugged in, you can unplug it and see if running on battery would fix it.
Ok ill look into that. Is there anything in ASUS Bios that could create unstable voltages?
Also by the way havent tried this yet but going to drive 10 miles away to my friends house right now and try it at his house to rule out my house as a possible power problem. Will report back in a little bit!
 
Ok ill look into that. Is there anything in ASUS Bios that could create unstable voltages?
Also by the way havent tried this yet but going to drive 10 miles away to my friends house right now and try it at his house to rule out my house as a possible power problem. Will report back in a little bit!
Buy this off Amazon from Amazon, try it to see if it works:Simulated Sine-wave ups. Yes, pay the 10 more for the one in the link being on sale. Hook only your tower(keyboard/mouse) and monitor. Do not hook up any other accessories, if you don't have issues add one thing at a time and test in games that have shown issues consistently. If nothing with the bare set up add one thing at a time, testing right after. If the issues still persist then you can return but I would still keep. Power strips provide little protection. Make sure to use surge and battery ports.
 
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Has this been the same CPU as well? Have you tried running the RAM at lower speed?
 
Has this been the same CPU as well? Have you tried running the RAM at lower speed?
I actually sent my original 3900x back to AMD and they replaced it with a new one for this build and all the issues stayed so wasnt the cpu hardware wise. I tried everything at the original ram speed set by bios (2133mhz) and after seeing the same visual issues i turned docp on (3600mhz) which only made things run a bit smoother but visually everything stayed the same.
 
Buy this off Amazon from Amazon, try it to see if it works:Simulated Sine-wave ups. Yes, pay the 10 more for the one in the link being on sale. Hook only your tower(keyboard/mouse) and monitor. Do not hook up any other accessories, if you don't have issues add one thing at a time and test in games that have shown issues consistently. If nothing with the bare set up add one thing at a time, testing right after. If the issues still persist then you can return but I would still keep. Power strips provide little protection. Make sure to use surge and battery ports.
I will definitely look into this! I just got back from my friends house and had my computer running there for about an hour and what i was able to see is maybe it looked visually a tiny bit better? Although it was hard to tell but the pixelization was still 100 percent there along with some stuttering. I will post a video today of the pixelization i saw at his house meaning that it cant be solely linked to my house being the culprit i also saw the same voltage drops in GPUZ at his house running doom eternal (Ran 3d Mark and Heaven also if that helps). I will see if i can try and go to another house and try it but was pretty similar to my house so far.
 
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Is this the same Windows install media in each case? Have you tried finding a 1909 version?
 
two things

1. looks like the only piece of hardware which has been the same, is your RAM. Run a memory tester on it. This one is within windows https://www.hcidesign.com/memtest/ and this one you boot from a thumb drive https://www.memtest86.com/
Run them over night. Good RAM will not have ANY errors. Bad RAM often shows errors within minutes. but....could need a longer test to reveal the errors.

2. Make fresh windows install media and buy a key. You can get keys for cheap and its a simple step to rule out shenanigans.


*I just realized your SSD may be the same, as well. Its unlikely, but that could be an issue. Do you have a spare drive or know someone with a spare drive?
 
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Is this the same Windows install media in each case? Have you tried finding a 1909 version?
So I with every build reinstalled the Windows USB ISO for the most current Windows 10 64 bit verision, so no it would be whatever the current windows version is on their site (unless they havent updated it).

Ive heard the exact same thing about 1909 by the way, good mention. When i was having huge problems with Oculus Link and Half Life Alyx, many of the players were getting around certain issues by going back to windows 1909, although some others said it was finally fixed (not so for me though). I will write that down, if i recall though i was unable to find 1909 anywhere online?

By the way i brought my whole rig to my friends house 10 miles away last night and opened all the applications one by one, along with GPU Z and pixelization is still there and rocket laucher artifacting in Doom. Also saw the same voltage drops at his house in GPUZ although i will say there were alot less of them and the game itself might have looked a tiny bit better? Might be placebo though. I will post footage of what i saw at another house later along with the gpuz graph.
 
two things

1. looks like the only piece of hardware which has been the same, is your RAM. Run a memory tester on it. This one is within windows https://www.hcidesign.com/memtest/ and this one you boot from a thumb drive https://www.memtest86.com/
Run them over night. Good RAM will not have ANY errors. Bad RAM often shows errors within minutes. but....could need a longer test to reveal the errors.

2. Make fresh windows install media and buy a key. You can get keys for cheap and its a simple step to rule out shenanigans.


*I just realized your SSD may be the same, as well. Its unlikely, but that could be an issue as well. Do you have a spare drive or know someone with a spare drive?
So, i had the exact same thought, so the Ram sticks have been run through MEMTEST for hours ending up with 0 errors at the end. I also pulled one stick and tried each alone. I do agree with you though, was on my mind as maybe trying to return the GSKILL and going to Corsair Vengeance or something (just weird it passed the test). I did the test you boot from a usb drive by the way.

When it comes to Windows guess im just cheap haha. I'll buy a key and see if it change anything, i was told in the past that the key doesnt change any preformance stuff but i honestly don't know. So i will give it a shot.

M.2 Drive hasnt been replaced, although it has been reformatted everytime, and i agree with you its a bit of a long shot. I dont have any others around but i can try and return it and get a new one?

Ran the PC at a friends house last night also and will post my findings from that in a little bit also!

Thanks for the help.
 
Its more likely to be the RAM than the SSD. Usually storage issues have different symptoms.
 
So, i had the exact same thought, so the Ram sticks have been run through MEMTEST for hours ending up with 0 errors at the end. I also pulled one stick and tried each alone. I do agree with you though, was on my mind as maybe trying to return the GSKILL and going to Corsair Vengeance or something (just weird it passed the test). I did the test you boot from a usb drive by the way.

When it comes to Windows guess im just cheap haha. I'll buy a key and see if it change anything, i was told in the past that the key doesnt change any preformance stuff but i honestly don't know. So i will give it a shot.

M.2 Drive hasnt been replaced, although it has been reformatted everytime, and i agree with you its a bit of a long shot. I dont have any others around but i can try and return it and get a new one?

Ran the PC at a friends house last night also and will post my findings from that in a little bit also!

Thanks for the help.
wait a min.....so your win install is a legit key? what have you been installing and using? for example im on build 19042.870 (20H2). hell im just wondering if same issue happens on activated version...get you a 10 dollar key if nothing else imo
 
You kind of avoided the video cable question.
You said different monitors and different cable types... but....
Make sure you are using DP or HDMI and using the appropriate DP 1.2 or 1.4 rated cable or HDMI 2.0 cable to ensure you are not loosing fidelity.
And dont use a cable any longer than you really need. (Like stay below 8ft if you can , 12ft max)
You could test the monitor on 1440P with 60 hz refresh an 4:4:4 color space.
I have seen issues like yours because of cables and not having the right res/refresh/chroma settings.
Not saying its a smoking gun but likely worth trying as its low cost low effort.

Honestly alot of the stuff you are showing in the video seems to be AA/AF/vsync related if Im looking at the same thing you are.
But maybe we are picking out different visuals there.

What monitors did you go through?
 
wait a min.....so your win install is a legit key? what have you been installing and using? for example im on build 19042.870 (20H2). hell im just wondering if same issue happens on activated version...get you a 10 dollar key if nothing else imo
No key, but Windows lets you download and setup windows 10 64 without needing a key you just end up getting a watermark in the bottom of your screen that says "Activate Windows" so every build i went to the official ISO website and downloaded whatever the latest edition was. Heres the link: https://www.microsoft.com/en-us/software-download/windows10ISO Used a USB stick and isntalled it through BIOS on setup.

I'll check to see what the version number is when i boot her back up!
I will buy a key today also, might have just gotten bad info from people saying it just changes the ability to change your desktop background and not be bothered by activation messages, but better to rule it out.
 
you dont need a key for the testing youre doing. have you tried moving the system to another area of you house? have you made sure your cable s are up to snuff, not dollar store specials?
 
You kind of avoided the video cable question.
You said different monitors and different cable types... but....
Make sure you are using DP or HDMI and using the appropriate DP 1.2 or 1.4 rated cable or HDMI 2.0 cable to ensure you are not loosing fidelity.
And dont use a cable any longer than you really need. (Like stay below 8ft if you can , 12ft max)
You could test the monitor on 1440P with 60 hz refresh an 4:4:4 color space.
I have seen issues like yours because of cables and not having the right res/refresh/chroma settings.
Not saying its a smoking gun but likely worth trying as its low cost low effort.

Honestly alot of the stuff you are showing in the video seems to be AA/AF/vsync related if Im looking at the same thing you are.
But maybe we are picking out different visuals there.

What monitors did you go through?
Oh my bad let me see if i can clear it up with the info i have.
So currently im using the LG-27gl83a-B and it came with a DP cable and an HDMI cable, i have tried both cables the monitor came with and my heavy duty HDMI cable i use for recording 4:4:4 high bit depth video ( 8 bit 10 bit 16 bit and RAW formats).

So looking though whether the cables, the monitor comes with, in the provided manuals, they do not list whether its 1.2 or 1.4 DP. Difference between both the HDMI and DP provided is negligible. Also in control panel at the moment to see if it might fix the banding i changed from 16-235 to 0-255 which didnt solve that issue.

I will attempt to drop the HZ rate again from the native and check my color space. Bit tricky figuring out how to get to a 4:4:4 color space over 4:2:2 (came from Mac where its a bit more streamlined in the color control dept, i know don't hate me!). My monitor is a gaming monitor though and doubt it can compete with color grading monitors and regs like d65 and up.

I would say my main issue when you watch the video is Pixelization and blurry textures (stuttering here and there and the image just not looking crispy and as it should overall) which is sort of hard to see unless your sitting in front of the 1440p monitor. I had to catch all the videos on my iphone wish i had gotten them using geforce experience or something. I agree there is heavy Aliasing and Screen Tearing which usually are fixed by g sync, vsync and all the different new AA within control panel but whether i turn them on in game or in the panel the aliasing and tearing stays the same if that makes sense.

When it comes to what the cable speed is, for what came with the LG all i could find was this thread (since lg doesnt tell you in their manual).
https://linustechtips.com/topic/1130261-does-the-lg-27gl83a-b-comes-with-a-displayport-14-cable/


Heres my list of monitors that i bought and returned and swapped in order:

HP X27i 27” (I RETURNED AND GOT A DUPLICATE BEFORE RETURNING THE DUPLICATE AND GOING TO ASUS)​

https://www.amazon.com/HP-Monitor-F...t=&hvlocphy=9031644&hvtargid=pla-930214074474

ASUS 27" PRO ART PA27QV (Awesome IPS for cheap but found out it had a latency of 5MS and was told that could be the cause of my screen tearing at the time so i returned it and i was wrong that wasn't that cause)
https://www.staples.com/asus-proart...RwmvqAP28U-nJnwqsCZrO61DGuEfif9BoCf94QAvD_BwE
https://www.amazon.com/HP-Monitor-F...t=&hvlocphy=9031644&hvtargid=pla-930214074474


LG-27gl83a-B (This is what i have now didnt break the bank and had 1ms and among the reviews people say this monitor is great for gaming and somewhat color accurate, i have downloaded the ICC profile also)
https://www.amazon.com/LG-27GL83A-B...t=&hvlocphy=9031644&hvtargid=pla-835524813076

Thank you so much for the input, I will write all of this down and see if I can make any changes that help! I will be close by so if you need more info let me know. Also would it help anyone on here to post HWINFO or more GPUZ stats? To see whats going on under the hood?
 
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you dont need a key for the testing youre doing. have you tried moving the system to another area of you house? have you made sure your cable s are up to snuff, not dollar store specials?
Yes I've moved the computer around my house to multiple different outlets and with and without surge protector. Then last night i drove 10 miles with the PC and plugged it into my friends house which maybe it looked a tiny bit better, but might be placebo. Pixelization and stuttering was still there along with a single voltage drop in GPUZ at his house (not as many drops as my house or what look like voltage drops).

Well at the moment im using the DP cable that LG provided with the monitor but i have used their HDMI cable also and a 3rd party cable that is up to the task for sure. LG doesnt state in any of their manuals though if its 1.2 1.4 ect? Super weird. Anyway to figure that out? All i can find on the matter is this forum post.

https://linustechtips.com/topic/1130261-does-the-lg-27gl83a-b-comes-with-a-displayport-14-cable/

I will export and add a new video tonight of what the game-play looked like at my friends house last night so we all know its not my house or general area.

Also isnt Gsync, Freesync only workable through DP or is there a way to get HDMI to work with that?
 
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Yes I've moved the computer around my house to multiple different outlets and with and without surge protector. Then last night i drove 10 miles with the PC and plugged it into my friends house which maybe it looked a tiny bit better, but might be placebo. Pixelization and stuttering was still there along with a single voltage drop in GPUZ at his house (not as many drops as my house or what look like voltage drops).

Well at the moment im using the DP cable that LG provided with the monitor but i have used their HDMI cable also and a 3rd party cable that is up to the task for sure. LG doesnt state in any of their manuals though if its 1.2 1.4 ect? Super weird. Anyway to figure that out? All i can find on the matter is this forum post.

https://linustechtips.com/topic/1130261-does-the-lg-27gl83a-b-comes-with-a-displayport-14-cable/

I will export and add a new video tonight of what the game-play looked like at my friends house last night so we all know its not my house or general area.

Also isnt Gsync, Freesync only workable through DP or is there a way to get HDMI to work with that?
have these builds all been in the same case? have you bench tested any of the builds?
no idea about g/freesync, still on my plasma...
 
you already swapped from nvidia to amd cards......just throwing it out there....shit you tried just about everything else lol
 
Buy this off Amazon from Amazon, try it to see if it works:Simulated Sine-wave ups. Yes, pay the 10 more for the one in the link being on sale. Hook only your tower(keyboard/mouse) and monitor. Do not hook up any other accessories, if you don't have issues add one thing at a time and test in games that have shown issues consistently. If nothing with the bare set up add one thing at a time, testing right after. If the issues still persist then you can return but I would still keep. Power strips provide little protection. Make sure to use surge and battery ports.
My go-to UPS.
 
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So were the tests at your friends house with the same monitor? Have you tried recording by capture on the machine, to see if it shows up? If it does, we know it's something before the monitor, if not we know it's the cables or monitor. But what it looks like to me is corruption of the API or encode and decode. Does it happen with Vulcan or OGL based engines? One thing to try is down clocking the GPU, even though you said it happened with the 1070 as well.
 
you already swapped from nvidia to amd cards......just throwing it out there....shit you tried just about everything else lol
Micro Center claimed to have tried an AMD card but they spent like an hour working on the full diagnostics so i dont really trust that lol (i wasn't there to see so only Nvidia i have personally tried). Lol ofcourse thats what it feels like at this point.
 
So were the tests at your friends house with the same monitor? Have you tried recording by capture on the machine, to see if it shows up? If it does, we know it's something before the monitor, if not we know it's the cables or monitor. But what it looks like to me is corruption of the API or encode and decode. Does it happen with Vulcan or OGL based engines? One thing to try is down clocking the GPU, even though you said it happened with the 1070 as well.
Yes so the tests at my friends house last night was literally everything brought with me, monitor,computer,keyboard,mouse,speakers and even the surge protector i sometimes use. I think things might have been slightly better at his house especially after today turning the PC on again at my house and the amount of coil whine going on compared to his house when it was dead silent. Still pixelization and other stuff there though.

The next step was to maybe download geforce now and to screen capture to be able to show higher quality footage the problem is the visual stuff likes to hide sometimes it seems like things might be alright then you hit the next arena and all hell breaks loose so i usually whip out my iphone and start recording. So i promise this is the last iphone footage and the next video will be internally recorded. ONE NOTE though the pictures at the top that are screengrabs those are being done by hitting the windows key and prnt screen and you can see the macroblocking and dirty image in the star wars squadrons images up top. Video of course would be much better though i will work on that.

As far as Vulkan goes I've only tried it in Half Life Alyx (being its VR through link not the best for testing but oh boy Oculus Link is soooo messed up, and gears 5 i think once. Personally i didn't see much of a change, but i should go back and give it another shot. As far as engines based around that do you mean games that were built on vulkan vs directx? How do i test this?

I will try and undervolt the GPU soon just figured i'd try everything else before i ever move any slider in MSI AB.

Long awaited, lol heres the next video i just exported (sorry for the quality it got heavily compressed making it a bit hard to see the pixelization). The first half of all game footage is at my friends house and you can see how the same games like the lava in Prodeus has the same effect but it is by far not as bad. The second half of the video with sound is at my house and its just Windows in idle and a couple games with what the Coil Whine sounds like ( i do wish the footage was 1:1 areas of each game although I was kind of rushed at his place since he had to get to work):



PS: I find it hilarious that the Bethesda logo is the only thing that stutters in the intro to Doom Eternal haha
 

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have these builds all been in the same case? have you bench tested any of the builds?
no idea about g/freesync, still on my plasma...
Yes sir all the same Lian Li Lancool Mesh 2 Performance Case. It did cross my mind is there some way for the case to wreak havoc? Board is on all ATx stands but IDK. Yes i've benched all of the builds with 3d mark and heaven mostly. 3d mark im usually pretty close or right under average. Heaven score at my friends house last night was 2728. The scores seem to be close to fine its just what things visually look like and random frame drops sometimes.

Ya i heard that with a 3070 you shouldnt even really use G sync but with the frametime issues i had before g sync i keep that baby on no matter what.
 
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