Venturing into the Realm of WC? Help Please.

King Icewind

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I finally got everything yesterday. I thought it was pretty cool that Petra's had a hand written thank you note in it.

The pump that i got from dangerden was hilarious. The warranty time was whited out, and "two" was written in place of "one" lol.

And to add to the excitement...I was cleaning everything out, and as i was cleaning up i found out that the bottle was "Spring Water" not "Distilled" water. So yea, gotta pick up some Distilled water tonight and clean everything all over again. lol
 

x509

[H]ard|Gawd
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The only place I've found that is doing meaningful comparisons of watercooling equipment is Skinee Labs:
http://www.skinneelabs.com/

Unfortunately they are engineers, and not journalists and publishers... So the material tends to be very dense.
Zoson,

I really, really, really :) appreciate your detailed responses. I just checkd out skinneelabs, and yes, their material is pretty dense, but I'm a numbers guy myself, so that's OK. ;)
 

lollerskater69

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lol @ Skinnee providing good information.

A lot of people used to have respect for him before his Feser/Primochill fiasco.

Martin's liquid labs is the place to be ;)
 

lollerskater69

[H]ard|Gawd
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Anyway, my parts suggestions are:
CPU: Enzotech Sapphire (can be had at newegg as a combo with i7 mounting for only $35!)
NB: Whatever EK or Bitspower makes for your motherboard
SB/Equivalent: From what I've seen x58 NB coolers include southbridge cooling. If not - Swiftech MCW30
GPU: Swiftech MCW60 with full coverage extruded aluminum heatsink.(Keeps mem/pwm cooled by air, but core cooled by water)
Power: I have Enzotech forged copper heatsinks. I like them more than the Thermalright offerings...
Pump: MCP655
Rads: HWLabs SR1 series
Fans: Enermax Magma Twister(top speed of ~1600RPM pushing ~70CFM at very low noise, responds to undervolting very nicely)
Res: Swiftech MCRes Micro v2
Barbs/Tubes: Get everything with 1/2" ID 5/8" OD
Clamps: Don't forget these. Herbie clips will do the job, but I recently switched to bitspower compression clamps(not to be confused with compression fittings). Herbie clips are a pain to remove and work with in general.
Good reccomendation but you know I am a Swiftech MCR whore so OP if you don't mind a 1c loss in performance the Swiftech MCR rads can be had for about half the price. Also, 7/16 over 1/2 barbs won't come off and takes bends better.

Oh and the CoolerMaster R4's look pretty sweet too.
 

Zoson

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lol @ Skinnee providing good information.

A lot of people used to have respect for him before his Feser/Primochill fiasco.

Martin's liquid labs is the place to be ;)
Last I checked, Martin and Skinee were working together, out of the same website, and martinsliquidlab.com had become a parked domain with little to offer.

This was responded to, here:
http://www.hardforum.com/showpost.php?p=1034436838&postcount=54

While it would be nice if his reviews were flawless, I didn't say they were. I just said it's the only place I've found meaningful comparisons. If you have a better source of information, by all means share it with us.

Otherwise, do like the rest of us do. Analyze the testing methodology and data, then make your own conclusion.
 

skinnee

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I'll never claim to be perfect or that my tests and reviews should carry more weight than anyone else's. I'm learning things as I work through the test procedures and methods I have and I guarantee those will change over time as I contine to test.

The problem I seem to have is that their are members of the community who would rather accuse me of shady things and throw personal attacks. I just don't see the point or have time for all the squabling. I'm continuing to test and write reviews, I'll spend my time there.
 

King Icewind

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Getting a lil heated in here...I didn't plan on this thread to attack people. It's meant to help noobies (me included, im learning though ;)).
 

BillParrish

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Good show, back on track, cookies all round. Testing is very tough, a really valid methodology is not easy nor cheap. Doing the work is typically no fun. It is what it is. Moving on....
 

King Icewind

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So I finally got around to cutting the holes in the side panel for the brackets. Spray painted the brackets, and going to be more cutting for the pump tonight :)


Today's my birthday lol ;)
 

StoneTZ

Under the Man's Thumb...waaaaaa!
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Happy birthday. Following this thread pretty close. I'm looking at making the transition to WC myself soon. I live in Chile though and it's a real pain to import. Electronics are expensive as hell here and I'll probably just load up next time I'm in the states and bring a suitcase full back.

I'm pretty excited to see some pics and hear about the differences you're getting out of it.
 

King Icewind

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I took some pics, still need to take some so ill put them up either tonight or tomorrow. I was up until about 1:45 , which equates to about 3 and half hours of sleep lol.

Anyways, It was fun putting it together but real scary at the same time. When I powered it on, the pump started leaking like crazy :rolleyes:. Which combined with Antecs brilliantly designed case (the psu is on the bottom) made me freak out. The cpu leaked a little, right on top of the video card, thank god it wasn't on or plugged in. Zip ties just aren't cutting it, was stupid of me not to get hose clamps or such.

Now aside from the scary leaks, there's some very small pockets of air in the tubes that I can't seem to get out. These little pockets are causing my coolant to get fizzy, kinda like pouring soda into a cup. So does anyone have any recommendations to get rid of the pockets or are they just going to eventually work their way out? I've bleed it quite a bit...

Otherwise everything looks good. I ran OCCT real quick and it (the cores) was around 32c on idle, 42c on load. The CPU temp was 18c on idle, 30c on load. Defiantly will be better with the 120 x 38mm fans, as mentioned before. However, I'm stuck with what i have for awhile.

I'll put those pics up soon. It does look pretty BA ;)
 
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Zoson

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I took some pics, still need to take some so ill put them up either tonight or tomorrow. I was up until about 1:45 , which equates to about 3 and half hours of sleep lol.

Anyways, It was fun putting it together but real scary at the same time. When I powered it on, the pump started leaking like crazy :rolleyes:. Which combined with Antecs brilliantly designed case (the psu is on the bottom) made me freak out. The cpu leaked a little, right on top of the video card, thank god it wasn't on or plugged in. Zip ties just aren't cutting it, was stupid of me not to get hose clamps or such.
Zip ties should be good enough if you crank them down real tight. You might want to make sure your barbs are actually screwed all the way down.

Now aside from the scary leaks, there's some very small pockets of air in the tubes that I can't seem to get out. These little pockets are causing my coolant to get fizzy, kinda like pouring soda into a cup. So does anyone have any recommendations to get rid of the pockets or are they just going to eventually work their way out? I've bleed it quite a bit...
If you got an MCRes Micro by swiftech, they'll eventually filter out on their own. Not sure with other res's.

Otherwise everything looks good. I ran OCCT real quick and it (the cores) was around 32c on idle, 42c on load. The CPU temp was 18c on idle, 30c on load. Defiantly will be better with the 120 x 38mm fans, as mentioned before. However, I'm stuck with what i have for awhile.

I'll put those pics up soon. It does look pretty BA ;)
What speed are those temps at? And voltages? Try LinX for stressing use all memory when you run it.... And wow... That's some really, really low temps. REALLY low. 18C idle... What's your ambient? 10C? That's really cold...
 

King Icewind

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What speed are those temps at? And voltages? Try LinX for stressing use all memory when you run it.... And wow... That's some really, really low temps. REALLY low. 18C idle... What's your ambient? 10C? That's really cold...
The 18c idle was the CPU temp, not the temp of the cores. Just to clarify ;). Although I wish it was.

Unfortunately/fortunately this was all stock. I'll over clock it more once I get the leaks and such figured out. They really are worrying me. :(
 

King Icewind

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Here are some pics, im not fully finished...





Idle...

Load...


Most of the bubbles and foam have worked their way out. ;)

So I was doing a little overclocking, around 3.8ghz with like 1.25v around 52c on load lol, hyperthreading and all. Going to do more later. Ill post more pics once i get all the fans in the case and put the side panel on. Going to be getting hose clamps tomorrow.
 
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Zoson

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I have the Pure Performance UV Blue Coolant, I just want to make sure that I don't need to add anything extra. Like PT nuke, or w/e else.

http://microcenter.com/single_product_results.phtml?product_id=0275971

Thanks.

I overclocked to 4ghz with HT on, was around 55c on load. 1.25v. :D
Hate to break it to you. I had that exact coolant.
The coloring is pigmentation, not chemical bonding. So it will 'filter' out in your waterblock and in your pump and clog crap up.

If you want hassle free operation, stick with coolants that don't have coloring.
 
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King Icewind

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Hmm...that stinks. No additives to cure this?

I've noticed the pigment settling in the T.

Wonderful :rolleyes:
 

Zoson

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Hmm...that stinks. No additives to cure this?

I've noticed the pigment settling in the T.

Wonderful :rolleyes:
Not that I've found. My .02 is you drain your system and flush it out as quickly as possible. The longer you let it run in there, the harder it's going to be to clean.

I switched back to straight distilled and mixed a little bit of the CLEAR PC-Ice in for anti-corrosion/microbe properties. Then I switched to tubes that are colored/UV Reactive and never looked back. The tubes glow a lot brighter and more consistently anyway.

 
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Zoson

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Here's my experience from the last 11 years:
1. Pure distilled, no additives: I had algae in about a month.
2. Water Wetter: leaves white residue after a few months on all tubing, doesn't cause significant buildup in tight pin matrixes. looses effectiveness in preventing microbes after extended periods of time(algae after ~2 years with no coolant changes).
3. Hydrx: leaves a white/light green residue, if overconcentrated will 'gunk' up pin matrixes. If in a proper concentration, won't cause gunk, but will still leave the white/light green residue on your tubes.
4. Feser blood red: pigment based dye. significant clumping and gunking of tight pin matrixes within a few days. significant discoloration in tygon r3603 and clearflex that did not come off without scrubbing.
5. PrimoChill Ice with blue dyebomb: significant clumping and definite particlization of the pigments within a few days. will gunk up pin matrixes after a few weeks, leaves a residue that is easily cleaned with alcohol and minimal scrubbing.

I think nowdays the philosophy of 'less is more' has really hit the coolant area. As far as long term use if you want coloring, hydrx is probably your best bet. Just make sure you don't overdo it.

I think the guys who are pimpin' the silver killcoils and pure distilled might be on to something.
 

King Icewind

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So I took some better pics (at least I think they are better :p), and thought I would post them up.



 

King Icewind

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32-35C on idle

53-56C on load.

i7 920 D0 at 4ghz with HT @ 1.265v. Temps would decrease if I got some 38mm fans, but I probably won't. It's not like those temps are bad :D
 

x y u

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Wow I read this post thoroughly and the setup looks amazing. I feel I'm in nearly the same situation as you. (being quite the WC noob). Now that everythings said and done, do you think it was as easy as some ppl have said?

It has really inspired me to give this a try but I live in Taiwan and I have NO idea where I'd get parts from. Which is a shame because the air here is so damn hot that my CPU/gpu run really hot.
 
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