Vega's Quad-SLI 3GB GTX580 sub-zero liquid cooled build

I don't even think it works with multi-graphics cards Eyefinity/Surround:

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Recommendation for ScalableDesktop systems
• At least 2 Gigabytes of RAM, 4GB is ideal
• Intel Core i5 Processor or better
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• A single graphics card - We strongly recommend a card with at least 256 Megabytes of memory. Typically most mid to high grade consumer cards work fine (ex. Nvidia 9800 GTX). Graphic output from motherboards are not acceptable.
 
Nah, hate to be a party-pooper but those displays are pretty naff. The boundary between each display inside is still really obvious.
Look at this picture carefully:
ostendo%20shot.jpg
 
samuelmorris, that's an entirely different display. That's Ostendo display with 3 low res dlp chips in it. One I'm talking about uses a screen with 3 or more projectors behind it. On the video it's the first demo.
 
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Ah right, sorry I thought the second display was being referred to. Seems like a 'better' solution because it's simpler, assuming it's calibrated perfectly.
 
Ostendo is a piece of junk.

Now this:

ScalableDesktop%20-%20trade%20station.preview.jpg


Looks impressive!

I just haven't found anything that says it works with gaming GPUs in multi-configurations Eyefinity/Surround. Obviously a fake/marketing image though as there are no projectors, let alone room for projectors behind that screen in the photo.
 
Told just find you a broken 52 inch or bigger rear projection digtal like lcd or dlp. Take the screen out and Cut it to the ratio that you need. Then mount some projectiors behind it . Cheap way of doing the same thing . Might have to put blinders around it for light bleed but I think it would work..
 
Vega said:
Currently using 267.31. They seem to be working pretty good.



Naw, UD9 is a higher quality / more expensive MB versus the SR-2. 990x also stomps all over Xeons for over clocking . SR-2 would be good if you need two physical CPUs to fold or video encode. But for gaming, a faster 990x system with faster RAM will be better. For virtually all games, second SR-2 CPU and RAM bank would sit there and do nothing and have the slower Xeon and RAM do all the work versus 990x system.
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yeah the people seem to forget the Xeons have a cpu overhead when they communicate with each other and the ram. But in video editing clocked at 4ghz they wipe all before them.

What's your 3dmark vantage and 11 scores if you don't mind me asking? How's the gain adding the 4th?
 
Spooony said:
yeah the people seem to forget the Xeons have a cpu overhead when they communicate with each other and the ram. But in video editing clocked at 4ghz they wipe all before them.

What's your 3dmark vantage and 11 scores if you don't mind me asking? How's the gain adding the 4th?
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I've been waiting for the GPU water blocks and Aquaero 5 setup to come in before I push some serious clocks. This week I am going to put the CPU and NB under chilled liquid to test heat load capacity and compressor/cycle times. I think the GPUs will dump way more heat into the loop than the CPU will.
 
Vega said:
I've been waiting for the GPU water blocks and Aquaero 5 setup to come in before I push some serious clocks. This week I am going to put the CPU and NB under chilled liquid to test heat load capacity and compressor/cycle times. I think the GPUs will dump way more heat into the loop than the CPU will.
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What did you end up doing for the tank material?
 
R-Type said:
What did you end up doing for the tank material?
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I realized that it was not the silicone itself that failed but that the silicone had nothing to "grab" onto under all that water pressure. Before it was trying to adhere to aluminum foil on the insulation board which was too slick.

A metal tank would be good for waterproofing but just horrible to insulate in such a small space. Also the issue of designing a lid for the thin-walled tank that is air tight.

Ended up building a tank out of oak as the foundation. It has a very porous "rough" surface for the silicone to grab onto. I also built channels for the silicone to run into for even more grabbing power. The oak was also joined with special water-tight glue and brass screws for compression. I used more expensive large gap sealing silicone that is rated down to -60F this time.

I over-engineered it this time going for total leak-proofing as primary goal and insulation secondary. If this thing leaks, I will magically disappear from the face of the Earth never to be heard on [H] again. That is how confident I am. ;) The outside of the oak will be insulated with the same high-R value reflective air insulation sheeting.

The oak also allowed me to insert studs to allow a compression gasket along the top for the tank lid. The pressure will be applied with wing-nuts. I know the insulation properties of wood (especially oak) aren't that great, but the tank is much stronger this time and the silicone really feels solid. I just hope the acetic acid in the silicone sealant doesn't corrode the brass fittings and the brazing used on the copper in the system too much. (Discolored some of the metal green).
 
Vega said:
I've been waiting for the GPU water blocks and Aquaero 5 setup to come in before I push some serious clocks. This week I am going to put the CPU and NB under chilled liquid to test heat load capacity and compressor/cycle times. I think the GPUs will dump way more heat into the loop than the CPU will.
Click to expand...

yeah and nvidia gpus can run hooooot. No the reason I wanted to see 3dmark I want to see the gain from 3 to 4. 1 to 2 was minimal 2 to 3 was huge by me. dunno but seem like 2 of them don't like running together. Its 1 or 3 lol
 
Vega said:
I realized that it was not the silicone itself that failed but that the silicone had nothing to "grab" onto under all that water pressure. Before it was trying to adhere to aluminum foil on the insulation board which was too slick.

A metal tank would be good for waterproofing but just horrible to insulate in such a small space. Also the issue of designing a lid for the thin-walled tank that is air tight.

Ended up building a tank out of oak as the foundation. It has a very porous "rough" surface for the silicone to grab onto. I also built channels for the silicone to run into for even more grabbing power. The oak was also joined with special water-tight glue and brass screws for compression. I used more expensive large gap sealing silicone that is rated down to -60F this time.

I over-engineered it this time going for total leak-proofing as primary goal and insulation secondary. If this thing leaks, I will magically disappear from the face of the Earth never to be heard on [H] again. That is how confident I am. ;) The outside of the oak will be insulated with the same high-R value reflective air insulation sheeting.

The oak also allowed me to insert studs to allow a compression gasket along the top for the tank lid. The pressure will be applied with wing-nuts. I know the insulation properties of wood (especially oak) aren't that great, but the tank is much stronger this time and the silicone really feels solid. I just hope the acetic acid in the silicone sealant doesn't corrode the brass fittings and the brazing used on the copper in the system too much. (Discolored some of the metal green).
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if it leaks and you leave can i have whats left of the computer? ;-)
 
Vega said:
Wow, your right. Some of these online stores are super expensive. A 36"x48" copper sheet 1/16th inch thick is $535? Really? I could imagine a metal shop charging me four figures just to build this small tank. I also couldn't find any place near me. The problem with living out in the boonies.

I always do everything myself. I will find a solution. ;)
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I needed some simple custom plates for my Chief 325 mount points. Needed 3 110mmx200mm plates with VESA 100 and VESA 75 holes. The 100mm holes needed to repeat every 10 mm so that I could adjust the height of the montiors on the mounting arm.

I called up one local place and they wanted $790.

Hell F'n No. I got a scrap piece of 1/8" aluminum plate 6" wide and 19" long and just cut 3 peices out, printed a hole template from AutoCad and fired up the drill press. Took me about 4 hours total but cost me nothing but time.

Those custom metal shops are WAY to expensive.
 
Bummrus[H]a;1036976539 said:
Watch the Vid!
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I've watched that video. It mentions nothing about using top end gaming cards in multi-gpu. The only thing he mentions is a single "firepro" card. You can also see the Heaven benchmark running at pretty low FPS.
 
Vega said:
I've watched that video. It mentions nothing about using top end gaming cards in multi-gpu. The only thing he mentions is a single "firepro" card. You can also see the Heaven benchmark running at pretty low FPS.
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Well considering the Firepro line is based on the same hardware used in our gaming cards, just with more ram and features tailored to developers, I don't see why it shouldn't work.

The Rep in the video said they can use any video card that supports multiple displays. He also said Eyefinity helps with the setup.

The software they use for the projection system is called EasyBlend.
Easyblend FX is a software solution which does not require any custom hardware.

Easyblend is integrated wtih a broad set of leading applications and APIs such as: OpenGL, Microsoft DirectX, Dataton WATCHOUT, Scalable Player Software.
These integrations operate in real time with no incremenetal latency. Easyblend also integrates with Silicon Optix Image AnyPlace and Whitehorse warping devices.
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As for the poor performance, keep in mind that was a single 5870 based card and it was running the benchmark @ 3840x2160 (8.3MP).

If you've got the cheddar, it can't hurt to contact the company and get more info!
 
Bummrus[H]a;1036978121 said:
Well considering the Firepro line is based on the same hardware used in our gaming cards, just with more ram and features tailored to developers, I don't see why it shouldn't work.

The Rep in the video said they can use any video card that supports multiple displays. He also said Eyefinity helps with the setup.

The software they use for the projection system is called EasyBlend.


As for the poor performance, keep in mind that was a single 5870 based card and it was running the benchmark @ 3840x2160 (8.3MP).

If you've got the cheddar, it can't hurt to contact the company and get more info!
Click to expand...

I filled out their form to request more information. Usually this kind of stuff isn't aimed at gamers. The last question on the form was: What is your budget for automatic calibration software? Under 10K, $10-50K, Over $50. :D With those sort of costs, you know you are not dealing with end-user designed setups.

In-addition to the software you need to get one of those fancy curved hard-formed screens of unknown cost and 4-6 short throw 1080p projectors. It will be interesting what they come back with but I wouldn't be surprised if this "demo" screen setup cost $15-20 grand.

The last question would be how well does their custom software play with Eyefinity/Surround? Half the time its a pain in the butt getting Eyefinity/Surround to work by itself let alone with 3rd party apps.
 
Lol seriously.

Firepro and quadro cards are expensive coz they are made with better quality components heatsinks etc etc. But they are normally underclocked consumer cards when it comes to specs. Reason for that they are made for precision unlike consumer cards are made for speed and raw power. other thing they last normally longer. You don't see many returns on workstation cards. Now it will depend what your going to use the card for. Video editing purposes where precision is needed or modeling ->Firepro/quadro.
But you can't go use them for gaming. The top quadro card almost equal a underclocked 470 which will be awfull in gaming coz we need the raw power of it to push out those fps at a max rate.
 
Like I said a few pages back, there are many negatives to projector setups that a lot of people do not realize. I was originally going to go multi-projector curved display with edge blending, but I've found 3x 30" in portrait has worked incredibly well for me.
 
Vega said:
I filled out their form to request more information. Usually this kind of stuff isn't aimed at gamers. The last question on the form was: What is your budget for automatic calibration software? Under 10K, $10-50K, Over $50. :D With those sort of costs, you know you are not dealing with end-user designed setups.

In-addition to the software you need to get one of those fancy curved hard-formed screens of unknown cost and 4-6 short throw 1080p projectors. It will be interesting what they come back with but I wouldn't be surprised if this "demo" screen setup cost $15-20 grand.

The last question would be how well does their custom software play with Eyefinity/Surround? Half the time its a pain in the butt getting Eyefinity/Surround to work by itself let alone with 3rd party apps.
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LOL! Well if it's not too expensive and the software does the job, I can't think of a better investment for a gaming system. That kind of setup would last you a very long time.

Get a high contrast screen material like something from Woehburk and some decent projectors with good black levels, and I imagine you'd be able to get a picture near plasma quality. Maybe better?

Oh and there's also the ability to use that hardware to make a killer home theater! Obviously you'd have to move shit around everytime you switch, but it'd be sweet to do once a month.
 
Bummrus[H]a;1036982784 said:
Oh and there's also the ability to use that hardware to make a killer home theater! Obviously you'd have to move shit around everytime you switch, but it'd be sweet to do once a month.
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It'd be a huge pain in the ass to move around monthly. That's the kind of thing you get perfect and leave it alone.
 
I think 3x30" is doing pretty good. :) I can't even imagine sitting up that close to screens that big. The liquid cooling is definitely nice. What's the noise factor on it though. Does it give off a refrigerator hum or is it noticeable louder?
 
vjcsmoke said:
I think 3x30" is doing pretty good. :) I can't even imagine sitting up that close to screens that big. The liquid cooling is definitely nice. What's the noise factor on it though. Does it give off a refrigerator hum or is it noticeable louder?
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Look back a couple pages, he has the computer in another room and the cooling unit in a window so its actually outside.
 
You could always do a ''dual'' set-up like I did. One room with 30'' LCDs, and a real dedicated Home Theater in another room. My computer is powering both. And the Home Theater is great for Blu-rays watching and music. It's really the best of both world. :) I also use the room to review all sorts of high-end projectors, amps and pre-amp for a Home Theater magazine.

Some scary games are unbeleivable on a 8 feet wide screen. Yes. 8 feet wide. :) And with 7.1 speakers set-up in a pitch black room with no windows, I'm often jumping in my seats (with bass-shakers in all of them). I game in there pretty often. Only 1080p. But the screen is 8 feet wide! Gaming on 3 X 30'' LCDs is nice. But that room is really something else for sound quality and picture quality.

Room is totally decoupled from the house, and every walls are sound-treated. Room treatment was applied and measured by a sound-specialist. The room was optimized for ANSI CR and sound quality.

There is a dedicated electricity panel with 6X 20A breakers just to power the amps (7X300W) and the 2 subs. Just the projectors and eletronics are worth 100K$. Room construction (decoupled from the house and totally sound-proofed) did cost around the same.

I'm a hobbyist and an ISF calibrator. So I do my own video calibrations with Eye1 Pro and Calman.

Here's the room. Front, with a 4 way motorized masking system for correct video aspect ratio.

DSC03589_Medium_.JPG


And the back view. You can see the projector on the back wall, at 24 feet from the screen. All the electronics are in a seperated room behind the backwall, since even the faintest LCD light on a Blu-ray player can kill your ANSI CR pretty fast. You can see sound treatment in the walls, on the walls, and in the columns for the speakers.All the sound reflections, flutter echo, comb-filtering and other common sound deficiencies in the usual ''common'' room are under control precisely (measured by computers).

And it's not paint on the walls. It's Gilford-of-Main everywhere with sound-treatment under it. Bass-traps in each of the 4 corners of the room.

DSC02691_Medium_.JPG
 
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LEVESQUE said:
You could always do a ''dual'' set-up like I did. One room with 30'' LCDs, and a real dedicated Home Theater in another room. My computer is powering both. And the Home Theater is great for Blu-rays watching and music. It's really the best of both world. :) I also use the room to review all sorts of high-end projectors, amps and pre-amp for a Home Theater magazine.

Some scary games are unbeleivable on a 8 feet wide screen. Yes. 8 feet wide. :) And with 7.1 speakers set-up in a pitch black room with no windows, I'm often jumping in my seats (with bass-shakers in all of them). I game in there pretty often. Only 1080p. But the screen is 8 feet wide! Gaming on 3 X 30'' LCDs is nice. But that room is really something else for sound quality and picture quality.

Room is totally decoupled from the house, and every walls are sound-treated. Room treatment was applied and measured by a sound-specialist. The room was optimized for ANSI CR and sound quality.

There is a dedicated electricity panel with 6X 20A breakers just to power the amps (7X300W) and the 2 subs. Just the projectors and eletronics are worth 100K$. Room construction (decoupled from the house and totally sound-proofed) did cost around the same.

I'm a hobbyist and an ISF calibrator. So I do my own video calibrations with Eye1 Pro and Calman.

Here's the room. Front, with a 4 way motorized masking system for correct video aspect ratio.

DSC03589_Medium_.JPG


And the back view. You can see the projector on the back wall, at 24 feet from the screen. All the electronics are in a seperated room behind the backwall, since even the faintest LCD light on a Blu-ray player can kill your ANSI CR pretty fast. You can see sound treatment in the walls, on the walls, and in the columns for the speakers.All the sound reflections, flutter echo, comb-filtering and other common sound deficiencies in the usual ''common'' room are under control precisely (measured by computers).

And it's not paint on the walls. It's Gilford-of-Main everywhere with sound-treatment under it. Bass-traps in each of the 4 corners of the room.

DSC02691_Medium_.JPG
Click to expand...

Mmm... I'd love something like this for my house. Unfortunately, I don't have ~$200k to blow :(
 
LEVESQUE said:
You could always do a ''dual'' set-up like I did. One room with 30'' LCDs, and a real dedicated Home Theater in another room. My computer is powering both. And the Home Theater is great for Blu-rays watching and music. It's really the best of both world. :) I also use the room to review all sorts of high-end projectors, amps and pre-amp for a Home Theater magazine.

Some scary games are unbeleivable on a 8 feet wide screen. Yes. 8 feet wide. :) And with 7.1 speakers set-up in a pitch black room with no windows, I'm often jumping in my seats (with bass-shakers in all of them). I game in there pretty often. Only 1080p. But the screen is 8 feet wide! Gaming on 3 X 30'' LCDs is nice. But that room is really something else for sound quality and picture quality.

Room is totally decoupled from the house, and every walls are sound-treated. Room treatment was applied and measured by a sound-specialist. The room was optimized for ANSI CR and sound quality.

There is a dedicated electricity panel with 6X 20A breakers just to power the amps (7X300W) and the 2 subs. Just the projectors and eletronics are worth 100K$. Room construction (decoupled from the house and totally sound-proofed) did cost around the same.

I'm a hobbyist and an ISF calibrator. So I do my own video calibrations with Eye1 Pro and Calman.

Here's the room. Front, with a 4 way motorized masking system for correct video aspect ratio.


And the back view. You can see the projector on the back wall, at 24 feet from the screen. All the electronics are in a seperated room behind the backwall, since even the faintest LCD light on a Blu-ray player can kill your ANSI CR pretty fast. You can see sound treatment in the walls, on the walls, and in the columns for the speakers.All the sound reflections, flutter echo, comb-filtering and other common sound deficiencies in the usual ''common'' room are under control precisely (measured by computers).

And it's not paint on the walls. It's Gilford-of-Main everywhere with sound-treatment under it. Bass-traps in each of the 4 corners of the room.
Click to expand...

You mention 7.1, yet two subs at another spot? Is there another one hiding in the back? Seems like overkill on the electricity o_O Should look into an ASD-120 (unless thats what you're using, sounds like it could be). Did you do the construction work yourself? I really think the stages up front give it a nice look.. Bravo if you did it yourself! Getting ready to venture into my basement soon :cool: Also RF 83's up front?
 
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