Have you decided on a case yet? There's some cases out there in 4U footprints that can also be rackmounted if you decide on making a server out of it later.
The new Lian Li V3000 Plus is finally getting released.
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Have you decided on a case yet? There's some cases out there in 4U footprints that can also be rackmounted if you decide on making a server out of it later.
I blocked him, you guys have fun.Have you decided on a case yet? There's some cases out there in 4U footprints that can also be rackmounted if you decide on making a server out of it later.
sorry for encouraging him, but I miss fun builds like this.
That looks slick but I was thinking more something that can slide into a rails if you decide to move it into a rack later. Things like theseThe new Lian Li V3000 Plus is finally getting released.
You can write code on a raspberry pi lol.... you literally just want to spend money. Haha nothing wrong with that. Just get an epyc 64 core, dual socket machine. Prices start around 100k for the servers id recommend. All flash-based storage 100gbit stuff standard.I'm going to build a workstation, mostly for programming, that also does some server tasks (NAS, software builds). The budget is effectively unlimited, though I don't want to spend needlessly.
Looking around, I see AMD Genoa is out soon. What do you think of using the EPYC 9174F for a workstation/HEDT? Using ECC RAM sounds nice, as more stability than I usually get from my builds would be appreciated.
Ya I love the jumping in head first into a optane raid array and then folowing up with benchmarks. It's a cool threadWhy would somebody block this dude for blowing shit tons of money on something he thinks is cool?!?
2 points:
This is [H]ard|Forum.
I like to live vicariously.
Would it be possible to see some real life affair, compile time with the code base on the raid vs FireCuda and so on ?Here's ATTO disk benchmark for 2x Optane RAID 0:
Image Editing 241,891, Time:22.0264
Encoding 556,253, Time:9.57837
OpenCL 797,368, KSamples/sec: 146690
Heavy Multitasking 407,546, Time:18.7267
System Score 500,764
Image Editing 245,894, Time:21.6679
Encoding 552,099, Time:9.65044
OpenCL 795,236, KSamples/sec: 146261
Heavy Multitasking 407,307, Time:18.7377
System Score 500,134
A razor is the way to go to get the indium off. You can feel the silicone so it's not too hard to just get the metal off.Sure, if it's not too much trouble for me to get it done. PC Mark is supposed to run productivity apps and trace how long things take. I tried it but it's junk -- after it checks system info, it stops and says "no result was provided". Maybe there are better real world benchmarks?
Here's Real Bench, Optane RAID 0:
Code:Image Editing 241,891, Time:22.0264 Encoding 556,253, Time:9.57837 OpenCL 797,368, KSamples/sec: 146690 Heavy Multitasking 407,546, Time:18.7267 System Score 500,764
The OS is running on the RAID and it's too much work to move it to the FireCuda, but I copied the Real Bench software to the FireCuda and ran it from there:
Code:Image Editing 245,894, Time:21.6679 Encoding 552,099, Time:9.65044 OpenCL 795,236, KSamples/sec: 146261 Heavy Multitasking 407,307, Time:18.7377 System Score 500,134
So, basically the same. The work probably needs to be heavier on storage to see a difference, if we are going to see one.
Finally got around to setting up in the case:
View attachment 531057
View attachment 531056
Still waiting on a CableMod GPU power cable. That GPU is crazy large, but it has been working fine even against the bottom of the case like that. The bottom is a grill, but there's not much space on the other side of the grill to the PSU. The 3rd GPU fan is past the PSU, and there's a bottom intake fan putting fresh air into that 3rd GPU fan, which blows through the card and out the top.
All those Noctua fans run at 45% most of the time, making it silent. The GPU and PSU fans stop completely when cooling isn't needed. I had some extra absorptive acoustic panels (Rhino on Amazon) so I put them on the inside of both side panels and next to the mobo. Maybe it helps some coil whine or other noises. I haven't been bothered by that, thankfully.
I ended up doing the delid. I was too curious to see the difference. It was super easy, no der8auer tools are needed. First cut the glue with steel wire, like guitar string #9. There's zero chance of damage doing that. Next, grab the IHS with pliers and pull gently while heating up the IHS. You want the IHS to get hot rapidly, so the heat has less time to soak into the CPU die and PCB. I used a hot air tool on max, but a simple butane torch would work. I used a hot plate but only to hold it down, it wasn't on because you don't want the PCB hot. The IHS comes off as soon as the indium reach 160C. There is also zero chance of damage doing this, unlike de8auer's tool which uses shear force and puts mechanical stress on the CPU die and PCB.
View attachment 531066
After that is the harder part: getting the damn indium off. It's commonly said that liquid metal melts it, but all you will do is make a mess if you put LM on a thick blob of indium. The indium is thick but soft and needs to be scraped off. That's not super hard, but it's stressful to use a razor so close to the CPU. Once 99% of it is off, then LM helps get the last bits.
The delidded CPU is lower than the retention bracket, so that has to go. I kept the stock backplate though. All I did was reduce the height of the DH-15 cooler stand offs by 3.8mm, which was the height reduced by removing the IHS. Doing that lets me still screw my cooler down all the way and not have to wonder if I'm putting too much pressure on the CPU. The DH-15 only has 2 screws which isn't great, but works fine.
Temps are only a few C less at idle and still hit the 95C limit at max. I assume this is because air cooling can't remove the heat fast enough. Oh well, it was fun to dork around with. I don't plan to do water cooling, I'd rather keep it simple. It doesn't hit 95C as fast as before the delid. With Cinebench it hits 90C fast, 93C soon after, then takes a little while to creep to 95C. Previously it would jump to 95C. It never hits 95C in normal usage. Playing games it hits ~54C, which is roughly the same as before the delid.
I tried overclocking, but the 7950X just doesn't have much headroom, especially air cooled. It's stable with a few more aggressive settings than stock, but PBO2 and some other settings don't help -- clock speeds are either the same or worse, or they are faster but unstable. CoreCycler with P95 set to AVX2 is the fastest way to see instability. It's 100% stable with the settings I ended up with, where clock speeds are ~5200MHz all core and ~5550MHz single core. I'm OK with that and stability is important, even though I was hoping for more. Ultimately more aggressive settings give higher clock speeds but don't pass AVX2 stress tests and sometimes crash under light loads (eg YouTube), even though they appear stable when playing games and even when doing other stress tests.
Now we’re talking! Love this…I ended up doing the delid. I was too curious to see the difference. It was super easy, no der8auer tools are needed. First cut the glue with steel wire, like guitar string #9. There's zero chance of damage doing that. Next, grab the IHS with pliers and pull gently while heating up the IHS. You want the IHS to get hot rapidly, so the heat has less time to soak into the CPU die and PCB. I used a hot air tool on max, but a simple butane torch would work. I used a hot plate but only to hold it down, it wasn't on because you don't want the PCB hot. The IHS comes off as soon as the indium reach 160C. There is also zero chance of damage doing this, unlike de8auer's tool which uses shear force and puts mechanical stress on the CPU die and PCB.
You could just look the time it take the next time you have to build something and try to see if there a difference on the raid, back in the days with regular cpus there wasn<t much if any (even on a ram drive).Sure, if it's not too much trouble for me to get it done
Yep, the razor (scalpel) worked fine, but it's a dangerous step since one slip can mean buying a new CPU. All the other steps are 100% safe.A razor is the way to go to get the indium off. You can feel the silicone so it's not too hard to just get the metal off.
Now that its delided, watercool it?