The WC Thread: You got questions, we got answers!

I have a question about bleeding a waterloop . I have seen in many threats that rad are mounted on the top of the case , in my planning to watercool my rig the rad would be the highest point in my waterloop too . So if u bleed the system the air would accumulate in the highest point , mean the rad , how do u get them out off there ??? Even if u move the case around and somehow get all bubbles into the reservoir , what happends if u turn ur computer off . Without any pressure from the pump wouldnt the bubbles tend to crawl back to the highest point the rad ??? :confused:
 
You get all the bubbles into the reservoir and they'll stay there. That's why the barbs on the reservoir are mounted in a lower position, so the air bubbles don't go back into the loop. Air of course is lighter than water, so when the pump stops running, the air stays at the top of the reservoir.
 
What is the risk involved with leakage? If there is a leak, will my computer be toast or is the coolant non-conductive?
 
Distilled water and additive is conductive, but they do sell non-conductive fluid. Course that crap is expensive.

As for leakage, it's really a non-issue. As long as you are careful setting it up, you shouldn't have any leakage. I never leak test my setup after maintenance. I just make sure my hose clamps are on well and look for leaks while I'm filling the loop. I look over it for a few minutes before I turn on my comp.
 
Long story short, my old Koolance case went AWOL on me and I'm gonna be doing things right this time. I have a firm $200.00 budget to buy a new case and water cooling components. What I already do have is Dangerden Maze4 CPU cooler, Swiftech MCW50 GPU cooler, and a Koolance hard-drive cooling plate. I will need EVERYTHING else.

Things I'm looking for in a setup:
-Midsize case, no full towers!
-Silence, my old case has a really quiet and inaudible pump
-Reservoir, as I would like the case to have as few tubes as possible

So I'm not exactly sure where I should go with this. I have been out of the scene a while so I'm not sure what parts are still "good" and what not.
 
$200 isn't a whole lot of money for a case, pump, reservoir, radiator, and tubing. You'll probably have to buy one uber cheap case and an uber cheap watercooling kit from like...Thermaltake or something.

You can hit newegg and find the cheapest case that fits your needs. You should be able to get a Swiftech setup for under $170.
 
Hello everyone.. I am currently set up with a TEC and I am at a wall with my temps. So, I have decided to get rid of my TEC and go with a GOOD water cooling setup. It would just be for my E6600. I have a budget of about $300. Any suggestions? I plan on purchasing everything with the next 24-48 hours.. Sorry for the short notice..
 
Hey guys, I’m pretty new to WC, but am very eager to replace the jet engine noise that’s in my room. I’m wondering what would be a good kit for someone like myself. I was looking at the Vantec STG-100 because it seems to fit well with my AMD 64 754 slot GA-K8NS Pro gigabyte mobo, and Radeon x850. Just wondering it that’s a smart kit for someone like me to get. I want something that is super quiet because im just so tired of having an air cooled system that sounds like a 747 jet.
 
Any words of wisdom on making a tight bend? I need to go from my cpu block to the northbridge block on a 680i motherboard. The 2 are less than 2 inches apart. I can do it with a long tube, but that looks dumb. Any suggestions?
 
Any words of wisdom on making a tight bend? I need to go from my cpu block to the northbridge block on a 680i motherboard. The 2 are less than 2 inches apart. I can do it with a long tube, but that looks dumb. Any suggestions?
First of all, use some quality tubing. Home Depot 1/2"id-3/4"od isn't going to cut it for this kind of turn.
1. Measure the exact length of tubing you'll need for this bend.
2. Take the piece, and bend it into the the bend you want, without kinking it. If you need to prevent that from happening, take some house clamps/zip ties/coolsleeves, whatever you have, and use them to prevent the tubing from kinking while holding the bend.
3. Once you have the tubing bent the way you want it, either wear some gloves, or use rubber bands or something to hold it in the position you want (along with anything else needed to prevent kinking). Stick the tubing in hot water (not boiling, but hotter than you can stand holding your hand in) for about a minute, maybe less if you notice your tubing start to melt).
4. Pul it out and dry it while keeping it in that bent position.

You should now have a piece of tubing that holds the bend nicely without needing any anti-kinking protection. Since you're looking at a tight bend, remember to use hose clamps, even if it's 7/16"id on 1/2" barbs.
 
First of all, use some quality tubing. Home Depot 1/2"id-3/4"od isn't going to cut it for this kind of turn.
1. Measure the exact length of tubing you'll need for this bend.
2. Take the piece, and bend it into the the bend you want, without kinking it. If you need to prevent that from happening, take some house clamps/zip ties/coolsleeves, whatever you have, and use them to prevent the tubing from kinking while holding the bend.
3. Once you have the tubing bent the way you want it, either wear some gloves, or use rubber bands or something to hold it in the position you want (along with anything else needed to prevent kinking). Stick the tubing in hot water (not boiling, but hotter than you can stand holding your hand in) for about a minute, maybe less if you notice your tubing start to melt).
4. Pul it out and dry it while keeping it in that bent position.

You should now have a piece of tubing that holds the bend nicely without needing any anti-kinking protection. Since you're looking at a tight bend, remember to use hose clamps, even if it's 7/16"id on 1/2" barbs.


Thanks for the tips... I am new to W/C and hopefully, sometime by the end of this week, my W/C setup parts should arrive.. Did I buy "crap" or is this "ok" for a first time W/C'ing project for my processor?

Order Date: Sunday 11 February, 2007

1 x Swiftech APOGEE GT Extreme Performance Universal Water-block
- Retention Hardware: Stock Retention Hardware $xx.95

1 x Coolingworks CoolRad™-32T Triple 120mm Radiator $xx.95

8 x Reuseable Clamps - For 1/2" Tubing (3/4" O.D.) - Black $x.92

2 x Fluid XP+ HP (High Performance) Coolant - Clear $xx.90

16 x PrimoFlex Tubing 1/2 ID x 3/4 OD - UV Blue $xx.00

4 x Danger Den G1/4 High Flow Fittings - 1/2" $x.96

1 x PUMP SWIFTECH MCP655 12 VDC PUMP - $xx.69

3 x 120MM FAN AEROCOOL XtremeTurbine-BK - $xx.97

1 x XSPC Passive 250mm Reservoir - BLACK - $xx.99
 
Can you run a watercooled setup that would be effective with just blocks on the GPU, and CPU and no fans at all, just the radiator?

I'm not really interested in huge overclocks, I just use the ASUS built in AI 20% OC. I would like a totally silent system though.
 
Can you run a watercooled setup that would be effective with just blocks on the GPU, and CPU and no fans at all, just the radiator?

I'm not really interested in huge overclocks, I just use the ASUS built in AI 20% OC. I would like a totally silent system though.
Yes, you just need enough passive convection and/or a large enough radiator. A Reserator might not be enough for a 20% CPU & GPU Oc depending on your hardware, but search around for large heater cores. If you can find one more than 1ft. square, you can probably get away keeping it passive if you can stick it in an area with decent ventilation. The bigger, the better.
 
Can you run a watercooled setup that would be effective with just blocks on the GPU, and CPU and no fans at all, just the radiator?

I'm not really interested in huge overclocks, I just use the ASUS built in AI 20% OC. I would like a totally silent system though.

Yeah... but why? Adding 2 yate loons at 5v would improve your cooling performance 300-400% and run at about 20dba.
 
I agree with the above post about Yate loons. I've tested my rig with the fans off then with the fans at 5v (as slow as I can to keep them moving). The difference was phenomenal... I admit they weren't loons (at 5v, my Sunon 120mm fans are quiet) but the air flow alone made a huge difference. My Yate Loon D12SL fans are acceptable at 12v and inaudible at around 9-10v (even up close).

I a similar vein, has anyone tried these Yate Loon D12SH-12: http://www.petrastechshop.com/12yalod1cafa2.html? They are rated for 88cfm @40db. I've used the D12SL-12 which are rated at 47cfm @28db. I'm thinking a little bit of undervolt on the D12SH loons could really push some air and still be pretty quiet. Anyone have experience with these?
 
I have a quick question. I assume the majority are running just CPU waterblocks because having to buy a new block each time you update your GPU could get expensive.

Also If you guys are just using fans to cool the radiator and going for a massive overclock do most of you watercool the NB or change the stock cooling. I know some of the better motherboards have elaborate HSF designs, but with not active cooling from any of the fans I would imagine it limits your OC potential?
 
I have a quick question. I assume the majority are running just CPU waterblocks because having to buy a new block each time you update your GPU could get expensive.

Also If you guys are just using fans to cool the radiator and going for a massive overclock do most of you watercool the NB or change the stock cooling. I know some of the better motherboards have elaborate HSF designs, but with not active cooling from any of the fans I would imagine it limits your OC potential?
1. Most GPU blocks either have multiple holes for different sockets, or have adapters for other sockets available for $10 or so.

2. A fair number of people do cool their NB, but most do not. For one, NBs can usually be cooled just fine with decent case ventilation (which you want anyway for mosfets, other components, and your radiator temperature if it's inside the case) and a decent passive heatsink (Zalman NB47J or similar). Water cooling the NB doesn't have much evidence to show that great of an increase in OCs, especially considering the performance loss of having another (usually somewhat restrictive) block and set of turns in a loop. If you're worried about the loss of airflow from the lack of a CPU HSF, then just have an exhaust fan and make sure your case has negative pressure, so heat gets sucked out the back.
 
Swiftech MCR-220-QP
AquaXtreme MP-05 Pro LE
Masterkleer 7/16" 30ft.
clamps
Pentosin G11
Alphacool DDC Pro
Danger Den Brass fillport
fittings
already have a pair of Panaflo M1A

ordering once the rest of the money I need is transferred to PayPal, is there anything missing?
 
Swiftech MCR-220-QP
AquaXtreme MP-05 Pro LE
Masterkleer 7/16" 30ft.
clamps
Pentosin G11
Alphacool DDC Pro
Danger Den Brass fillport
fittings
already have a pair of Panaflo M1A

ordering once the rest of the money I need is transferred to PayPal, is there anything missing?

I probably wouldn't get 30 feet of hose, but other than that you look good.
 
i'm redoing my loop and making it a cpu only loop. my question is would the order matter? i'm thinking of doing this due to space in my PC-7B.

pump -> CPU block -> rad -> back to pump

i know it's ideal to have it pump -> rad -> CPU block -> pump, but i'm thinking since i'm just cooling the cpu, it wouldn't matter.
 
I'm water cooling my other computer now. Would a PA120.2 or MCR220 be sufficient for an AMD 3500+ and a single 6800 Ultra?
 
MCR220 should be just fine for those if they are stock clocks. Plus, you can actually find them in stock.
 
I need some solid advice. I know NOTHING about WC and I'm trying to decide if I should even bother.

My end result will be something like this...

In terms of specs think top of the line system but one step down so I get almost the best money can buy but without the cost.
NO OC.
NO window with flashy lights. Looks are not important, again I don't care about glowing green colors.
My case will sit on the floor off to the side or under a desk out of sight.
I only want a single case nothing extra like a huge water tank sitting outside the case something subtle.
Low maintenance.

I'm looking into WC because I hope it can solve the problems I've encountered with air cooling which are as follows...

Noise, vibrations, high pitch squeal over time as dust builds, did I mention noise.
Being tucked under a desk against the wall in a very hot second floor room during the summer have led to overheating many times so this is something I would like to avoid.

So any opinions, I can't decide if I would be better off just going the same route as always with an air setup and hope I can control the fan noise and vibrations or is a wc setup really the way to go. Money isn't really a problem but I don't think there's any value in spending xxx dollar on a wc setup when I can get the same results from a 50 dollar air solution. From what I see a large focus is on the visual and OC benefits of WC and since I desire neither of those is there still enough benefit to even bother.
 
depends how much you are willing to spend really. what are you looking to water cool? if your not overclocking a simple system would do
 
I should have posted here to begin with.

Hi,

I'm a noob so bear with me. I just built my first water cooling loop. Here are the components.

MCP350 pump (yea I know, but I was going for quiet)
MCR320 radiator (4 Yate Loons SL~ probably gonna 7v mod them)
Apogee GT Extreme (got it for cheap ~$35)
Swiftech Microres
Radbox MCB-120 rev 2 (tubes go directly through the pci holes)

PrimoFlex 3/8" tubing.

I'm using 3/8" tubing, because I think 1/2" is too thick and I don't want to modify my case (as in drill holes in it) just yet and I'm using the Swiftech pass-true kit that came with the radbox. I still don't have the rest of the parts of my computer yet, but I did set up the loop (using some broken parts for clearance).

My future build is going to be:
Quad core AMD (employee discount)
The second to highest end nvidia (if I'd purchase now it would be the 8800GTS)

Those are the only important things, because thats all I'm going to cool.

Anyhoo, the pump looks powerful enough, but I thought maybe I should go with a petra/alphacool top, just to up the flow rates. Does that sound like a good idea? Or should I just get a new pump all together? Keep in mind I want something quiet and easy to mount.

Also I thought about scrapping the whole 3/8" tubing, if I the 7/16" masterkleer tubing can fit through the pci slot pass-tru. Does it fit?

Thanks
 
eh I got a sort of stupid question.

Never done Water cooling etc.

How much better is water cooling now? Compared to the newest "bestest" designs of air cooling heatsinks?


I remember "back in the day" like 1999-2000, that the air cooling heatsinks SUCKED, pretty bad, the technology hadnt caught up with AMD's newest CPU's that were running super hot.

Then the best solution i remember was, a 60mm delta black fan, that ran so loudly your room sounded like a jet was taking off. (Im sure you guys remember it something like that). I remember then, that alot of guys in the AMD area were going water cooled, and were reaping the rewards,

I remember seeing huge overclocks on watercooled systems then.

Anyways, how much of a difference is there now in watercooling compared to the "newest" biggest "bestest" HEATPIPE air cooling solutions?

Is there a large difference, that Will add up to higher overclocks?

Thanks for answering my stupid question.

yea... ive been outta the loop for a while.....
 
I'm looking at possibly moving to watercooling in the not-so-far future and would like recommendations for the current system below in my signature. I'm looking at cooling the CPU, the 8800GTS, and 3-5 Hard Drives.
 
Wondering if I could get some advice on a setup... I've read a bit, I get the basic components of a WC system and what they do, but looking at sites like Danger Den and Aqua Computer, the sheer variety of choices available for each component is a little overwhelming. I'm looking at stepping up to an 8800GTX, and spending $200-300ish to WC the CPU, NB, and the GTX. Any recommendations on quality, bang-for-my-buck parts within that price range?
 
Wondering if I could get some advice on a setup... I've read a bit, I get the basic components of a WC system and what they do, but looking at sites like Danger Den and Aqua Computer, the sheer variety of choices available for each component is a little overwhelming. I'm looking at stepping up to an 8800GTX, and spending $200-300ish to WC the CPU, NB, and the GTX. Any recommendations on quality, bang-for-my-buck parts within that price range?

Well, a Dtek Fuzion CPU block, and an EK 8800GTX waterblock... coupled with any triple radiator of your choice (or a PA series double radiator if you can't fit a triple) and an MCP6455 pump would be a really nice setup.
 
Well, a Dtek Fuzion CPU block, and an EK 8800GTX waterblock... coupled with any triple radiator of your choice (or a PA series double radiator if you can't fit a triple) and an MCP6455 pump would be a really nice setup.
Cool, cool, is there anyplace online you'd recommend ordering from? I should have noted in my original post, I really need to order everything from one place since I live in Alaska and shipping is insanely expensive. Thanks for the help!
 
that's a good question .. i want to know where to buy ek stuff in the us

i personally have bought a lot of stuff from performance-pcs.com
 
Okay, how's this look? Including shipping, this is already pushing $310. I'm also a little concerned with space here, my case is smallish - will the pump and radiator fit okay? How many feet of tubing should I buy? Do I really need one of the Fillports/syringes they advertise, or can I get a plain old funnel at the store to fill through the T-line? Will spending $20-$30 on additive increase performance that much, or will inexpensive stuff suffice?

EDIT: Changed the setup after looking at Performace-PCs. Similar cost, but with a reservoir instead of a T-line. I have a spare drive bay for it, it looks cool, and my understanding is it's easier to deal with.

EK CPU block
EK 8800GTX block
Black Ice Pro II Compact radiator (2x120mm)
Eheim 1048 110V pump
Thermaltake AquaBay M3 reservoir
 
Okay, how's this look? Including shipping, this is already pushing $310. I'm also a little concerned with space here, my case is smallish - will the pump and radiator fit okay? How many feet of tubing should I buy? Do I really need one of the Fillports/syringes they advertise, or can I get a plain old funnel at the store to fill through the T-line? Will spending $20-$30 on additive increase performance that much, or will inexpensive stuff suffice?

EDIT: Changed the setup after looking at Performace-PCs. Similar cost, but with a reservoir instead of a T-line. I have a spare drive bay for it, it looks cool, and my understanding is it's easier to deal with.

EK CPU block
EK 8800GTX block
Black Ice Pro II Compact radiator (2x120mm)
Eheim 1048 110V pump
Thermaltake AquaBay M3 reservoir

I'd grab an MCP350 or 655 pump rather than that eheim... A lot easier to use :)

Also, the Fuzion waterblock is a better choice for the CPU. but your selection isn't that poorly off :)

Just get some pentosin for your additive. a 5% to 10% concentration is more than enough.
 
has anyone considered using two Y splits before and after the rad to try to make water surculate through the rad more then once?

Some of the water would have to hit the rad three times for this to be effective, but playing the odds it would help, assuming of course your rad still doesnt have you water room temp by the 3rd pass...

has anyone even tried it?
 
whats up guys..

i'm thinking about going to a watercooling solution to keep my PC cool... (you can see my current system in my sig)... This will be my first watercooling system and i've never done it before so i want a relaible setup at a affordable price..

I was thinking about getting a Koolane Exos-2 or this one.. Asetek WaterChill

Plus i need to know what else do i need...

also what other watercooling setups would you guys recommend, thanks again..
 
IMHO those are WAY overpriced

just build it up from scratch or get a kit from Petra's tech shop .com


way better performance and less cost
 
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