The Official P45 Asus P5Q Motherboard Thread

Hey fellas, i have this board at my office, im having USB issues, USB ports not providing enough power. Front ports dont have enough juice to run a external hard drive. im using the latest 1611 bios, im running 10x400 with my E7300 @ 4.0GHZ. Anyone fix the USB issues, please tell me how. Thanks.
 
Does it work in the rear ports? I'd guess that there the header isn't capable of putting out that much power. Might need a powered hub.
 
This is with the rear ports. My mouse doesnt work in the rear ports, but it works with the case ports. wierd.
 
I'm watercooling @ 3.6ghz already. 9 * 400, but my calculation shows a 5:6 ratio.

If FSB is set to 400, set DRAM frequency to AUTO or the next option down, which should be DDR2-800.

A 5:6 ratio would mean your FSB is at 333, and your ram at 400. That is 5:6. Are you positive your FSB is at 400?
 
If FSB is set to 400, set DRAM frequency to AUTO or the next option down, which should be DDR2-800.

A 5:6 ratio would mean your FSB is at 333, and your ram at 400. That is 5:6. Are you positive your FSB is at 400?

I'll take a look again, but according to memset that's what I'm running at.
 
Methadras, I may have missed something, but what makes you think that your memory is running at 5:6? If your FSB is 400 and your memory is at 400, then you are running 1:1.
 
dino the pizzaman,

quote [I'm planing my new rig, including 8gb of RAM and an Asus P5Q-E. I've read a lot of memory incompatibilities, especially when overclocking a bit (not that much, just a tiny little squeeze ) and using 4x2gb RAM. After surfing through the QVL and the range of products my local online dealers here in Switzerland carry I found the OCZ Memory 2x 2GB KIT PC2-6400 Platinum-Series| (OCZ2P8004GK).

Since I can't just return the memory if it does not please me I'd like to know if this combination (4x2gb OCZ2P8004GK on P5Q-E) works without any problems? It is on the QVL and should therefore work, but I've read some misleading posts in different forums and am thus a bit unsure what to think of this combination.

Is there anybody that knows this combination and can give me some advice? go for it or not? ] unquote

The QVL list can be daunting since what is compatible at 2GB and 4GB may not work at 8GB. See my signature below for what has proven very good for three months so far on the P5Q-E and P5Q Pro boards. So far no problems with any of the rigs just recently built, so I am getting very pleased with G.Skill memory. I do not expect to be able to OC as high as if using less memory, but I need this mempry capacity and will soon try to get about a 15% OC.
 
If FSB is set to 400, set DRAM frequency to AUTO or the next option down, which should be DDR2-800.

A 5:6 ratio would mean your FSB is at 333, and your ram at 400. That is 5:6. Are you positive your FSB is at 400?

Okay, I went to take a look again and my fsb to northbridge strap is set to 333 and my regular fsb is 400 putting my ddr2 memory at 961.
 
Methadras, I may have missed something, but what makes you think that your memory is running at 5:6? If your FSB is 400 and your memory is at 400, then you are running 1:1.

my fsb to northbridge strap is 333. I didn't see that before. I wasn't paying attention to it to tell you the truth.
 
Leave the multiplier as high as it will go, and focus on overclocking your CPU. RAM speed has very little effect on the performance of Core 2 systems, so don't worry too much about it. You should leave your RAM as low as possible with pretty loose timings to start with, and then start to tighten things up once you're done overclocking your CPU.

True.

I've actually left the RAM alone and went entirely with FSB-based overclocking. (My Celeron DC E1200 is a cut-down C2D, so the typical rules for overclocking C2Ds apply.) As opposed to the 800 MHz FSB that is standard, I moved to 1066 MHz FSB (266 MHz quad-pumped), which bumps the CPU from 1.6 GHz to 2.1 GHz without making any other adjustments (not to voltage OR cooling). A twenty-five percent overclock has NEVER been this easy. (In fact, I wouldn't have been able to push the Northwood-C it replaced that far without water-cooling.)

I have made NO adjustments to the RAM timing (I've left it at the defaults), and it's unlikely that I'll be making any.

In most cases, LGA775 is far easier to overclock than either S478 and S939, and that is likely entirely due to CPU design changes.
 
That's quite possibly the ATI HDMI Audio out. You can download the driver for it either from Realtek or ATI. I have a 4850 on my HTPC and a device similar to that was in device manager until I installed the HDMI Audio drivers.

That *device* is indeed the HDMI Audio support (standard in pretty much any Radeon HD chipset, from HD2400 up; I have an HD3450 in PCIe, and even though I have no HDMI connector, the device still shows up).

The reason for this is quite simple: one (at least) of the VO connectors is convertible (options are analog, DVI-I/DVI-D, or HDMI, depending on the chipset/card); some chipsets/cards have *both* VO connectors as being convertible. Unlike the case with onboard graphics on the motherboard, there's no easy BIOS adjustment for video-card-based graphics (you instead are forced to muck about in Device Mangler in Windows). Unless you actually USE the HDMI Output, just ignore it.
 
Yup.. If I shutdown my PC by Start>>Turn OFF Computer>>Turn Off and Turn it ON again by pressing the Power ON button, everything is fine... But if I restart or if I installed a Software that requires a system reboot, that problem happens..

Moreover, If I try to edit the settings in my Bios, of course, we want to save the changes, that problem happens...

Its quite annoying... It will turn your Monitor into Black or No signal after restart... But all of my Fans are spinning and I couldn't hear a BEEP..:(
Hello there,
I bought Sapphire Toxic4850 HD 512 yesterday and I 've been having the exact same problem as hmx_ryan. The only thing we have in common is the ASUS PQ5.

Have you found any solution to this?

I contacted the support dep. of the place I bought this and the only thing they could come up with is that the gfx card is faulty. Any ideas?

Thank you.
A
 
Hi everyone. Great thread, glad I found it. After reading through the whole thing (yes all 63 pages), I have a few concerns/questions still to be answered.

P5Q Pro
2x2GB OCZ Platinum 1066
Radeon HD 4850
Arctic Freezer 7
Q6600 (G0, VID 1.325 i think)

I've got it running right now at 3.0 GHZ (333x9) with CPU Vcore at 1.25 V (CPU-Z reads 1.242 when running p95 i think). 24 hour p95 session, the max temp hit 58C. Idle is like 28C for a room that is probably about 20 C. This is real temp with tjmax set to 100.

1. Is this about right for voltage and temps?
2. What is VID? Is it just the chip's stock voltage?

Originally I did the overclock with the VTT @ 1.2V, NB and SB core at 1.1V, and the SATA voltage at 1.5V. I did this for no other reason then I just wanted to start at the "standard" values according to what it says in the BIOS when I select each of the voltages. I recently put those back to Auto, but I have no way of knowing what they are being set to this way.

3. I've seen comments on here that the board overvolts, so I should go back to setting the voltages manually. How can I determine what to set them to? I just picked the numbers from before because the BIOS said those values were "standard."
4. To try for even higher overclock (just for fun), how can I make a guess at which voltage to increase if necessary? Are there particular failures that would make one favor a particular voltage increase over another?

I've had to disable the USB Legacy option to get my board to boot from the hdd with my OS installed. I have 2 SATA drives, a SATA optical drive, a floppy (dunno why), an esata going to sata port through a bracket, a usb external drive and occasionally a usb flash drive. It seems I set the boot order to put my western digital black hdd first or second behind the dvd, but its like it forgets. I save, exit, and still get the boot error saying insert bootable media. i go back into the bios and my usb hdd is back in line in front of my system hdd.

5. How can i make the setting stick so i can have my usb drives detected at post?
 
1. Is this about right for voltage and temps?
Looks that way to me.
2. What is VID? Is it just the chip's stock voltage?'
Yes.
3. I've seen comments on here that the board overvolts, so I should go back to setting the voltages manually. How can I determine what to set them to? I just picked the numbers from before because the BIOS said those values were "standard."
You're doing it right.
4. To try for even higher overclock (just for fun), how can I make a guess at which voltage to increase if necessary? Are there particular systems/failures that would make one think more nbvoltage is needed instead of cpu voltage, or vice versa?
The only way to know is to raise one voltage at a time and see which ones have an effect and which ones don't.
5. How can i make the setting stick so i can have my usb drives detected at post?
It should always detect them. However, I don't believe the board will retain boot order settings for them if you disconnect and then reconnect them.
 
I have the P5Q and absolutly love this board. I have read a few people didn't like the ATX power connector location for the regular P5Q but I honestly do not understand the big deal. I find it is in a better location then below the RAM slots. Looking at my pic the cable looks like it will block the CPU but if you re angle the cables you can make it so it literally goes up and over the CPU slot area. This is what I eventually did and have no problems with the CPU cooler and the ATX cable:

31182586pr7.jpg
 
It really depends on your CPU cooler. That placement can get in the way very easily. I prefer the P5Q Pro placement over that placement, but that's just me.
 
If you have a big CPU HSF, as a lot of people here do, there's no way you'd be able to angle it over the ATX cable comfortably over it... Or around it in many cases, so it just ends up wedged between it and the RAM or the backside of the case (and smack dab in the middle of the HSF's airflow path).

Personally any middle-of-the-mobo connectors always seem like a horrid idea to me, no easy way to hide 'em, and they can get in the way of other components and/or airflow... Connectors on the edge are easier to deal with if you have cables long enough to route behind the mobo plate, etc. That's one of the things some would use that square-ish hole by the drave bays in your case, provided there's an equivalent up higher up by the PSU (and enough space between that side of the case and the outside panel).
 
Since I probably will not xfire, i was also looking at the vanilla p5q and decided against it due to the layout also. I don't think the placement would interfere that much with my cooler but nonetheless the placement turned me off. It's just cleaner for my build if the connector is on the board edge like "normal."
 
Since I probably will not xfire, i was also looking at the vanilla p5q and decided against it due to the layout also. I don't think the placement would interfere that much with my cooler but nonetheless the placement turned me off. It's just cleaner for my build if the connector is on the board edge like "normal."

To each his own I guess. I just find it strange, kinda like not buying a certian car model because the car lighter is on the left side rather then the right side. :rolleyes:
 
It really does suck when they decide to stick the ATX power right on the wrong side of the motherboard, or in the middle. There's nothing you can do and you end up with a huge cable going right over your motherboard.
 
It really does suck when they decide to stick the ATX power right on the wrong side of the motherboard, or in the middle. There's nothing you can do and you end up with a huge cable going right over your motherboard.

It dosen't if you angel the cable around the socket. Besides, even if you didn't who cares if a cable goes across your motherboard? You have the side of your case left open or something all the time? Or are you in that must have a case window fad still?

My only beef is not the ATX placment but rather the two PCI-E 1X slots. There both directly below the PCI-E 2.0 slot and in my 9600GT cooler covers one and nearly covers the other one.
 
To each his own I guess. I just find it strange, kinda like not buying a certian car model because the car lighter is on the left side rather then the right side.
That's true, but in this case, the p5q pro was only $5 more and was actually cheaper after rebate, so it was a no brainer for me.
 
It dosen't if you angel the cable around the socket. Besides, even if you didn't who cares if a cable goes across your motherboard?
For some people, its not so much the huge cable going across the board as it is having to route that huge cable in an already crowded area thanks to humongous cooler and humongous video card. It's even worse if you have a case that puts the supply at the bottom and you have to route that cable around a big video card.
 
For some people, its not so much the huge cable going across the board as it is having to route that huge cable in an already crowded area thanks to humongous cooler and humongous video card. It's even worse if you have a case that puts the supply at the bottom and you have to route that cable around a big video card.

Got an unrelated question for you. How is the Arctic Freezer 7 cooler? I'm seriously considering buying that exact model for my P5Q and E8400. Does it fit ok and what are your temps with it?
 
Got an unrelated question for you. How is the Arctic Freezer 7 cooler? I'm seriously considering buying that exact model for my P5Q and E8400. Does it fit ok and what are your temps with it?
I like the AF7. It has gotten positive remarks in this thread. The negative remarks I feel are unfounded. I think its a good budget cooler. It fits with no problems on my p5q pro. With my Q6600 at 3.0 GHz, max temp during 24 hours of large ffts on prime95 was 58C as read by real temp with tjmax set to 100C. Vcore is 1.242V as read by cpu-z. From what I gather, it should get me to 3.2 GHz just fine. I think most people are right that its a good budget cooler but if you want to really max out your over clock, you'll have to go for something better and spend a little more too. I'm satisfied with the AF7 for what I'm doing now, which is to run day to day stable at 3GHz or maybe 3.2 GHz.
 
anyone have any ideas on the best bios now, after months of maturity?( for a deluxe) I will be getting mine back from asus rma next tuesday...after like almost a month. But they are giving me a new one hassle free, even though i had bent pins!
 
AC Freezer7 Pro is fine for a budget cooler (at $30 or under), but you can get something noticeably better for not much more... Like the Zerotherm Nirvana NV120 for $40 after MIR. Depending on where you live, the weather, etc. it might or might not benefit you even on milder OC's, particularly with the Quad Cores.

The Xigmatek HDT-S1283 is probably a better bargain than any of the others, being about on par w/the NV120 but going for $27 after MIR on Newegg... Altho if you pick the 'Dark Knight' version with the bolt-thru kit (to put less stress on the mobo) it comes out to $40 just the same. It's the same thing as the Kingwin RVT-12025 [H] reviewed months ago btw.
 
Usually I consider placement of components before making a purchase... I do want the 4/8 pin and 24pin power supply connections to be at the edge of the board, I want IDE to be on the right side (not the bottom edge), and (now) I want sata ports to be clear of the pci-e 16x and the slot below, which unfortunately my P5E-VM HDMI has right in the way of my newly acquired GTX 260. :mad:

I won't buy motherboards that don't satisfy these, it's just a hassle otherwise.
 
anyone have any ideas on the best bios now, after months of maturity?( for a deluxe) I will be getting mine back from asus rma next tuesday...after like almost a month. But they are giving me a new one hassle free, even though i had bent pins!

Honestly, from what I hear 1406 and 0803 are the way to go. I've been using a modded 1702 for a while now without issue.
 
I am running the P5Q here with the P180b case by Antec.

The atx power cable connecter isn't in the way at all here.

I simply handi tyied the atx cable to the rear of the case then over between the rear case fan and video card case mount clip.

All out of the way.

The board is really good so far about 2 months.
If you only use 1 video card its perfect at what it does.
 
Picked up the P5Q Pro and a Q9550 a few weeks ago, finally got to OC it last night. Ran it through prime95 all night, no errors but i will be doing a new clock for it once i add better ram to it.
No voltage touched on the core but i had to bump up the NB quite a bit because of the shit ram... All in All, not bad for only taking an hour to get!! Likin the board so far!!
 
I'm all of a sudden getting page_fault_in_nonpaged_area bsod's if I do any really heavy hard drive action like copying files or sometimes when I play games. I have a p5q deluxe with ket's m1406 bios. Anyone know or have seen this?
 
Did you try reducing your OC? That's a common error w/an OC that's too aggressive or w/faulty memory.
 
Did you try reducing your OC? That's a common error w/an OC that's too aggressive or w/faulty memory.

This

That's the only time that I've seen this error. Give Intel Burn Test a shot and if you pass run Memtest 3.8 for a while. Good luck :)
 
Did you try reducing your OC? That's a common error w/an OC that's too aggressive or w/faulty memory.

Yeah, I reduced my OC from 9 x 400 to 9 x 398 and it seems to be stable now. Voltage is at 1.4185, ram is at v2.000, just a touch on the NB and PLL, but that's about it. Am I missing something by not going to 400?
 
That's the only time that I've seen this error. Give Intel Burn Test a shot and if you pass run Memtest 3.8 for a while. Good luck :)

I've seen it on a system at stock speeds, but only after it was aggressively OC'd and something in the OS or the page file probably got corrupted, heh.

Yeah, I reduced my OC from 9 x 400 to 9 x 398 and it seems to be stable now. Voltage is at 1.4185, ram is at v2.000, just a touch on the NB and PLL, but that's about it. Am I missing something by not going to 400?

Not really, but I'd make absolutely certain that you're really stable by running Memtest, Prime95, etc for a good period of time (possibly while heating up the GPU w/Furmark or w/e as well). That's just me though... Rather deal with possible instability up-front than several months down the line.
 
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