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The Official P45 Asus P5Q Motherboard Thread
- Thread starter Elitech527
- Start date
For fellows:
One of the nice things about the TRUE is that it keeps your temps way down. That's helped me achieve a much better OC than I otherwise could have. My current overclock is 3.6GHz. I found the sweet spot for FSB was 450 x 8 multi. This thing hums along just fine. I've never needed a northbridge fan. I have it at 1.4v. It's still in the yellow. My CPU is on 1.49v, still pretty safe. I think the FSB termination voltage is 1.8 or 1.9. I have my ram at 1.94 linked at 900MHz (450x2). Everything sings along quite nicely. My temps idle in the mid 30's and max load with four threads of Prime95 it never passes 62c, well within the thermal threshold, and actually pretty stinkin good for such a high overclock.
Give those settings a try. I didn't tweak the GTL or whatever it's called. Didn't need to. Make sure you turn on the load line calibration to enabled. With that enabled I get extremely minimal vdroop. Very stable board. Good luck!
One of the nice things about the TRUE is that it keeps your temps way down. That's helped me achieve a much better OC than I otherwise could have. My current overclock is 3.6GHz. I found the sweet spot for FSB was 450 x 8 multi. This thing hums along just fine. I've never needed a northbridge fan. I have it at 1.4v. It's still in the yellow. My CPU is on 1.49v, still pretty safe. I think the FSB termination voltage is 1.8 or 1.9. I have my ram at 1.94 linked at 900MHz (450x2). Everything sings along quite nicely. My temps idle in the mid 30's and max load with four threads of Prime95 it never passes 62c, well within the thermal threshold, and actually pretty stinkin good for such a high overclock.
Give those settings a try. I didn't tweak the GTL or whatever it's called. Didn't need to. Make sure you turn on the load line calibration to enabled. With that enabled I get extremely minimal vdroop. Very stable board. Good luck!
What are your northbridge temps now? What kind of case do you have and how do you have your ventilation setup - i.e. fan sizes, number of fans, direction of airflow ??
My TRUE seems a little tighter on this board than on my 780i. Don't know why. On the 780i board even the slightest bump would rotate it, and my temps would jump by several degrees in load testing. Frustrating for a guy that's in his case all the time tinkering around!
On this board it seems more firm. And fortunately I have a huge case, so I can avoid touching it as much as possible. My goal is to eventually watercool, as there is room inside for a big radiator and lots of fans.
The TRUE is awesome though. It's one of the top rated if not the top rated air cooler. My next step is going to be to put a second fan on it for push-pull. The TRUE in push pull rivals a lot of watercooling setups, provided you have good case airflow.
How's the overclock coming?
I just clicked it up to 400mhz last night with ai suite before bed. I'll go back in today and see where I can get it up to as that hasn't touched voltage or anything.
I've got the g.skill that has been mentioned above so I don't doubt that.
Oddly enough I had the true mounted last night on my Wavemaster's slide out mobo tray, then I noticed the damn thing was nearly 2" taller, so I had to unmount, put it back in the case and then mount it (PITA as it's a fairly small midtower of older design).
I've got a panaflo 120x38 on it now that's pushing some good air, though the side is off the case.
I'm still looking for more info on 9450s, either im missing it or haven't read thoroughly enough.
Its the aspire alien x navigator. The real popular one about 2 years ago. 5 fans, the one in the front is intake, top exaust, side intake, and the 2 back ones exuast. All are 80mm exept the side fan which is 120mm. After a little more reading, I found that the MB temp is not northbridge temp, just a diode near the memory slots. My cables are a bit of a mess right now, so that could have caused the change when took the motherboard out to install the cooler. Also, the stock intel cooler blew air down onto the motherboard so im guessing that might be it also. My MB temp is 50c at load.
One other thing, when I am overclocking I want to make sure I am locking the pci. It says PCIE for 100, but is there another option for the pci clock? I know on older motherboards it needed to be at 33.33.
My TRUE slips too. One day I will do the washer mod.
For the people trying to squeeze the most out of this board and like to benchmark with Prime/Orthos just wanted to pass this on. Modded bios
Going to try myself when I get a chance. Aiming to beat my highest overclock myself from my previous p35 board.
Going to try myself when I get a chance. Aiming to beat my highest overclock myself from my previous p35 board.
Couldn't get link to work.
Its essentially a large washer placed between the "X" mounting bracket and the top of the block. This allows more pressure to be exerted on the CPU as the spring-loaded screws do not provide enough pressure.
There is another version were a user placed two pennies on each corner under the higher cross bar of the "X" bracket to provide a more even pressure situation. (An update shows the pennies compressed slightly, as they are a bit more malleable than steel washers)
Just thinking out-loud, but it could be best to do this with a "stepped" style, IE placing a washer/spacer of some sort under the entire bracket and then a little smaller spacer under the higher legs to give a bit more pressure. Either way I'm sure it would help with the clamping force.
For some reason the system doesn´t boot, when PL is set to 9 in "Ai Transaction Booster". Using Memset works fine. Why?
Bios settings & voltages:
LLC: Enabled
MEM. OC Charger: Enabled
DRAM Static Read Control: Disabled
CPU: 1.25625
PLL: 1.56
NB: 1.26
DRAM: 2.1 <--- I should probably lower that to ~2.02 in order to prevent Asus´ automatic overvoltaging?
Bios settings & voltages:
LLC: Enabled
MEM. OC Charger: Enabled
DRAM Static Read Control: Disabled
CPU: 1.25625
PLL: 1.56
NB: 1.26
DRAM: 2.1 <--- I should probably lower that to ~2.02 in order to prevent Asus´ automatic overvoltaging?
Do you not want to change your NB voltage? Setting mine to 1.4 helped quite a bit. My memory is running solid at 900MHz w/stock timings on 1.94v, and I bet I could lower my memory volts even more. It's a little on the warm side, so I might do that. What MHz are you trying to run your memory at?
I´ll increase NB voltages, sorry for confusion, English ain´t my native language.
Memory runs currenly at 1:1 with FSB, at 800 Mhz.
I´ll try 1.35 volts of NB voltage first.
Hey I ordered the P5Q-PRO, but my friend is telling me the PQ5-E is whats better... it hasn't shipped so I might be able to call and change it. I can't really seem much of a difference on the chart. http://www.techarp.com/showarticle.aspx?artno=548&pgno=0. The differences I see are AI Audio2, stack cool 2, and an extra pci x16 slot. Is that it? I'm not sure what the first 2 do... if someone wouldn't mind explaining (I'm sure its been asked but I can't get it to come up on a search) I'd really appreciate it.
MaStaFLaSH
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For some reason the system doesn´t boot, when PL is set to 9 in "Ai Transaction Booster". Using Memset works fine. Why?
Bios settings & voltages:
LLC: Enabled
MEM. OC Charger: Enabled
DRAM Static Read Control: Disabled
CPU: 1.25625
PLL: 1.56
NB: 1.26
DRAM: 2.1 <--- I should probably lower that to ~2.02 in order to prevent Asus´ automatic overvoltaging?
From what I've seen of the e7200 you're going to need more vcore to get stable at those speeds. Also make sure the FSB ratio is on auto/333, for some reason 400 is buggy.
MaStaFLaSH
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Yup those are pretty much the differences iirc. Also I think the -E has slightly better cooling on the NB/PMWs. but the pro is fine. IMHO the -E isn't worth the extra money.
Look back a couple pages in this very thread, I laid it out very specifically... The -E has ADI on-board audio while the Pro has Realtek (if you're not using it's irrelevant, if you are it might matter, a lot of people prefer ADI). The -E has an extra heatsink near some MOSFETs (power regulators), though it probably doesn't matter much unless your case is an oven, judging from all the good OC reports w/the Pro. The -E has an on-board e-SATA port whereas the Pro comes with a bracket you connect to one of the internal ports, either seems to work fine though. The internal arrangement of some of the SATA/PATA ports changes between the two. That's about it though.
For an extra $10 I'd go with the -E, however if it's more like $20 then I'd stick with the Pro, but that's just me.
I managed to get 100% IBT-stable system. 
Thx for help, Big Lar, SirKronan and MaStaFLaSH.
I could try to reach PL 6, but it won´t probably be worth of extra heart beats.
The following settings were set in Bios, all the other settings were left @ Auto:
FSB Frequency - 400
PCI-E Frequency - 100
FSB Strap to Northbridge - 333 (was before @ Auto)
DRAM Frequency - 2.04
DRAM Timing Control - 5-5-5-5-15
DRAM Static Read Control - Enabled
DRAM Read Training - Enabled
MEM. OC Charger - Enabled
Ai Transaction Booster - Common Performance Level - 9
CPU Voltage - 1.26250
CPU PLL Voltage - 1.56
DRAM Voltage - 2.04
NB Voltage - 1.34
Load Line Calibration - Enabled
Is there still room for tweaking?
Thx for help, Big Lar, SirKronan and MaStaFLaSH.I could try to reach PL 6, but it won´t probably be worth of extra heart beats.
The following settings were set in Bios, all the other settings were left @ Auto:
FSB Frequency - 400
PCI-E Frequency - 100
FSB Strap to Northbridge - 333 (was before @ Auto)
DRAM Frequency - 2.04
DRAM Timing Control - 5-5-5-5-15
DRAM Static Read Control - Enabled
DRAM Read Training - Enabled
MEM. OC Charger - Enabled
Ai Transaction Booster - Common Performance Level - 9
CPU Voltage - 1.26250
CPU PLL Voltage - 1.56
DRAM Voltage - 2.04
NB Voltage - 1.34
Load Line Calibration - Enabled
Is there still room for tweaking?
It is left @ Auto.
Too bad we don't know what it is running at.In any event how I OC is,( when I think I am close to max), I bump up the fsb x 2fsb at a time and test with Prime Blend and see which core errors out, then I first adjust the GTL 1 notch higher in bios for that core, ie; worker 1/2 in prime coincides with gtl 0/2 in bios on my setup.
If that does not work, I try messing with the Ram,NB,VTT and cpu voltage a bit, trial and error, until I find the right combination that works without going too much higher in voltage/heat.
Larry
If that does not work, I try messing with the Ram,NB,VTT and cpu voltage a bit, trial and error, until I find the right combination that works without going too much higher in voltage/heat.
Larry
Hmn, here's my problem.
I OC my PC along with my memory, it works for about 2-3 days without any issues. Passes orthos, memtest for hours.
After 2-3 days in a morning, it will not POST at all. Just spinning fans. To fix this I have to take out my memory and only leave 1 stick in. It then POST's and says that my OC has failed and I need to enter setup... At which point I enter, save settings, put back in my memory and it works again for 2-3 days.
It's starting to really piss me off. Is this bios issue?
I OC my PC along with my memory, it works for about 2-3 days without any issues. Passes orthos, memtest for hours.
After 2-3 days in a morning, it will not POST at all. Just spinning fans. To fix this I have to take out my memory and only leave 1 stick in. It then POST's and says that my OC has failed and I need to enter setup... At which point I enter, save settings, put back in my memory and it works again for 2-3 days.
It's starting to really piss me off. Is this bios issue?
Aside from a bunch of small features and different layouts, there isn't much difference between the boards. The E has an extra LAN port, optical out, and eSATA in the back (the Pro has a PCI bracket for eSATA). It also has power and reset switches mounted directly on the board, an extra PCI-E slot (pretty much useless), AI Audio 2 (also pretty much useless, especially if you have a multichannel setup), and Stack Cool 2 (useless). In other words, unless you really prefer the layout of the E or want its extra features, you may as well just go with the Pro.
I recently set-up my new rig based around an Asus P5Q Pro mobo and Q6600, see sig for details.
It was an easy CPU o/c to 3Ghz, just changed the FSB to 333Mhz, the FSB strap to NB to 333Mhz and DDR2 to 1066Mhz and I have the system stable, running Prime95 and 3DMark etc for hours on end. However I had to set the vcore to 1.3250 anything lower and the Worker Thread #1 bombs out after about 15 mins. Does the Worker Thread #1 refer to Core One?
I am a bit concerned about temps though. Ambient temp is 22C. At idle the four cores are about 47C, 50C, 46C, 46C. Under prime95 load after an hour they reach 79C, 82C, 77C, 77C and stay there until I cancel the test. I run the system with the case closed. There is one fan drawing air in at the lower front. The Arctic Cooling Freezer 7 Pro pushes air to the back of the case and the rear fan really chucks out some heat at that those temps.
The CPU is not throttling back but are these temps anything to be concerned about? I have checked the CPU cooler and based on the thermal paste spread it seats properly. The fins certainly get hot indicating heat is being transfered from the CPU correctly.
Some of the temps users report on here are way lower than I can achive and they can also set a lower vcore than I can get. Anybody got suggestions to why my system runs so hot and why my vcore setting needs to be 1.3250?
I have read the o/c guide but am not sure if there are any other voltage settings I can play with in conjunction with the vcore that might allow me to get the vcore down a bit? i.e. CPU GTL Reference, CPU PLL Voltage, NB Voltage, SB Volage are all set to auto.
It was an easy CPU o/c to 3Ghz, just changed the FSB to 333Mhz, the FSB strap to NB to 333Mhz and DDR2 to 1066Mhz and I have the system stable, running Prime95 and 3DMark etc for hours on end. However I had to set the vcore to 1.3250 anything lower and the Worker Thread #1 bombs out after about 15 mins. Does the Worker Thread #1 refer to Core One?
I am a bit concerned about temps though. Ambient temp is 22C. At idle the four cores are about 47C, 50C, 46C, 46C. Under prime95 load after an hour they reach 79C, 82C, 77C, 77C and stay there until I cancel the test. I run the system with the case closed. There is one fan drawing air in at the lower front. The Arctic Cooling Freezer 7 Pro pushes air to the back of the case and the rear fan really chucks out some heat at that those temps.
The CPU is not throttling back but are these temps anything to be concerned about? I have checked the CPU cooler and based on the thermal paste spread it seats properly. The fins certainly get hot indicating heat is being transfered from the CPU correctly.
Some of the temps users report on here are way lower than I can achive and they can also set a lower vcore than I can get. Anybody got suggestions to why my system runs so hot and why my vcore setting needs to be 1.3250?
I have read the o/c guide but am not sure if there are any other voltage settings I can play with in conjunction with the vcore that might allow me to get the vcore down a bit? i.e. CPU GTL Reference, CPU PLL Voltage, NB Voltage, SB Volage are all set to auto.
faugusztin
2[H]4U
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Freezer 7 is good as a basic cooler instead of the bad stock cooler, but not for overclocked 65nm quad core. So those temps are IMHO normal - if you want lower temps, you must buy a better cooler.
A question about express gate update on the asus site, i tried to install it but it seems it is not for the ssd version of express gate, cause when i run the setup it installs on the hard drive, so i just quit the setup, but if it is not for the P5Q Deluxe why is there for download? anyone tried it?
MaStaFLaSH
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Freezer 7 is a nice cooler, but it can't cut it for an overclocked quad.
gamefreak1450
Weaksauce
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- Jul 28, 2004
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Can anyone here speak to the advantages of the Deluxe's 16-phase power over the Pro's 8-phase power? I know there is a hefty price differential between the two boards, is it really worth the difference?
Not unless you're a really hardcore overclocker.
Hey guys,
I recently bought some new bits and pieces for my machine:
- Quad Core Q6600
- P5Q Pro
- Nvidia 8800 GTS OC
The problem is that I have issues with my RAM. With both sticks in it refuses to boot but works fine with just one. I've read that the Pro board has memory compatibility issues - is there anything I can do about this aside from buying new ram that meets their QVL standards? I've updated the BIOS which supposedly fixes some issues but it didn't help me out at all.
Thanks for any light you can shed on the subject!
I recently bought some new bits and pieces for my machine:
- Quad Core Q6600
- P5Q Pro
- Nvidia 8800 GTS OC
The problem is that I have issues with my RAM. With both sticks in it refuses to boot but works fine with just one. I've read that the Pro board has memory compatibility issues - is there anything I can do about this aside from buying new ram that meets their QVL standards? I've updated the BIOS which supposedly fixes some issues but it didn't help me out at all.
Thanks for any light you can shed on the subject!
I would help if I could, but at present the only matching four sticks of identical ram I have are the 2GB chips from A-Data. All four of them run 100% flawlessly. Zero errors in memtest, just a tad warm to the touch. (can't fit my OCZ memory cooler on this board! Graphics card WAY TOO CLOSE to memory
)I was actually kinda surprised that this a-data stuff worked from the getgo. It wasn't on the first list that ASUS published for this board as being supported, but they actually added it to the list later. Obviously because it works....
what brand of memory are you using, and what config?
Add DRAM voltage, and 6-6-6-6-18 timings for example. Did it help?