The highly rated HP Pavilion Slimline PC thread

[yousuckstoo]

I installed again the AMD 92mm fan, and remove the delta fan because the PSU feels cold even with maximum energy load
All the fresh air coming from the 92mm enter by the grill of the PSU and keep the components cold.
If you are tired of the noise from the Flex ATX PSU, you can use a Noctua A4X20mm and plug it on the Motherboard using the low noise adapter, add a 92mm just below the DVD Caddy (the fan need to be air presure optimized) and the dBa on idle are virtually silent.
Im using a IXtrema 40mm fan to push hot air from the PSU , this fan really sucks at max rpm (the brand claims max dbA are 14db, but they lie, the max dba with a cellphone app shows around 45dba @ 12 volts, too noisy)
With 7 volts adapter i got 15dba, barely spins and dont move a lot of air, but iits ok to keep low temps from the PSU.
In summary, now the noisy part its the GPU when i run games, but its ok, soon im gonna replace it.
Its possible build a decent gaming machine on this case and keep it silent with decent temps.
I Share a pic of my desktop, i dont like RGB but found a cheap mechanical keyboard and i bought it
(Every piece of my PC dont include lights ,except the Jostick RF receiver)

 

[yousuckstoo]

Ok i think finally found the best noise/performance/airflow setup for this case
To someone who try to reuse this little box on the future, without spending a lot of money trying to reach to the same goal:
If you find a way to mod the HP S3000 stock cooler to fit on Intel 1200/AM4 socket, with low TDP processor (45 watts, 65 watts without turbo boost)
Its the ideal cooler because the heat goes away from the back of the case horizontally
The stock AM4 /1200 cooler can handle the processor without problems
but fries the PSU


Second thoughs

s:
I recommend put 2 fans to the PSU, 1 bringing cold air and other push it out hot air
Noctua 40X20mm to push hot air on 7 -9 volts are dead silent with good performance
Superred 50x25mm (the stock fan of my PSU) moves a lot of air with only 5 Volts.
Third : You can fit 2 x 60 mm fan on the bottom on the bays area, i set it pushing cold air
I took the recommendation to replace the 92mm to 2 x 60 mm fans
Set it to 2000rpm runs quiet and adds airflow to the bottom of the case
If you put a third party coolers to the processor, the hot air goes to the sides
If you swap the fan direction to exhaust, the CPU temps goes 5-7°C worse but the drives runs cooler (only 2 o 3 degrees)
The GPU temps are better too, but not by much (2 or 3 degrees)
Arctic fan its the best noise to performance fan, works great on both positions (intake,exhaust)
Noisebolcker Eloop are quieter, but only on intake mode.
Noctua P12 silent on intake, noisy on exhaust mode

More improvements (for modders):
Maybe in the future i try to do some improvements
The spot in the left picture feels warm playing games, making some holes to push the air to that area maybe reduces temps
On the right, i dont know why HP only make holes for the drive ara on the right side, with a line of holes on the bottom i think the GPU can handle better temps

Temps:
Winter
CPU 36 Idle- Full Load 56°C
GPU 37° Idle Full Load 77°C
SSD 35° Idle Full Load 55°C
Spring:
CPU Idle 38 Full Load 59°C
GPU Idle 39° Full Load 80°C (No thermal throttling)
SSD Idle 38° Full Load 57°C

My modded Adata SU650 died, replaced with a Crucial BX500 480GB (no modded)
NVMe drives without aluminum heatsink fits on the back of the motherboard
Just add a 2mm thermalpad to use the case as a heatsink

 

[yousuckstoo]

More pictures of the final modifications
Added 2 60mm Noctua PWM fans
Prevous fans started showing bad bearings noises and i replace both
Set at 1800 rpm for inaudible work
At idle the PC its silent, the GPU its the noisest part, its ok
GX 750ti now have 4+ years and the bearings start showing his age
If you mod the PSU its better put the fan pushing cold air for silent operation and beter temps
I decided keep both fans ,Superrred puling cold air (pushing hot air make more noise)
SilentX 40mm exhaust
I didnt suffer a single shutdown for high temps from tthe PSU running games.
Hope this helps for future builds, i cant remeber the amount of money spended on this project.

 

[winger0037]

FYI: A Gigabyte 1080 8GBOC will fit with some case modification 😏

 

[winger0037]

Ordered a vent cover and dust screen, cut a hole in the side panel for the GPUs intake fan. Yes, I know, I need to repaint my case.

 

[yousuckstoo]

Ordered a vent cover and dust screen, cut a hole in the side panel for the GPUs intake fan. Yes, I know, I need to repaint my case.View attachment 373172View attachment 373173

Nice! You keep the side panel.
On the past i made a hole in the side panel to put a Radeon 6770 but looks horrible
Your mod its a way better.

 

[yousuckstoo]

I rebuild my Slimline because the motherboard and PSU died on a storm with multiple shutdowns.
This time picked a Intel CPU because Ryzen processors and Motherboards are expensive
My new specs:
Core i5 11400F with 45 watts TDP Limit (runs similar to 10400F, but 11gen has PCIE 4.0 lanes,a important feature looking to future upgrades)
Biostar Z490GTN ITX 1200
16GB RAM 3200Mhz
Nvidia GT 1030
Shuttle PC60 300 watts
256 SATA SSD/ 640GB HDD
Thermalright AXP100 Full Copper
I hope RTX A2000 drops price because 6GB cards probably this year no longer works for mining.
Performance looks similar to RTX 3050 but A2000 only draws power from PCI Express slot.
Im gonna buy a GTX 750/1050Ti cooler to replace the stock cooler, because blower GPU in my experience, even in idle makes a lot of noise.
My config stays silent on idle and light gaming, the noise comes from the GPU
Shuttle PSU are the best option for silent operation, but need to be new,
because i bought on the past some refurbished PSU and the sellers replace the Superred fans (silent and good performance) with other brands which are terrible mantaining heat and noise levels.

 

[yousuckstoo]

A look to the inside
If you buy the AXP 100 look carefully the Motherboard you want to use it
In my case the Z490GTN dont allow to mount it on every position
The fix to fit the heatsink was bend the cooler to have clearance (VRM and RAM block the cooler)
Or buy a ram without heatink, its the only way to mount the cooler without modifications
Undervolt the GPU its a must thing to do.
With -150Mv vs stock setting, i can archieve 1650 Mhz Core Clock, Stock VRAM Speed with max temp 69c with quiet fan profile
CPU 45 watts Power Limit need to be set to get decent temps (59°C max)
Even with 65 watts stock TDP, the cooler heat up to +75°C and the PSU start overheating and make a lot of noise
Games dont use 100% of the CPU, the 11400f still boost to 4.2GHz most of the time, or stays 3.8GHz stable on games with more than 60% CPU usage
With GT 1030 its enough, you can try even lower TDP if you get a stock cooler
Even the eventually RTX A2000 will be fine with underclocked 11400f

 

[AirCool2]

Folks, I need some help with my Slimline s5150t. It is not powering on. P/S green LED is on. P/S Fan is not spinning.

I unplugged the 24 pin power and tried it with a tester. P/S Fan come on. But -5V is not lit.

I tried in another P/S, everything works. So it seems like a faulty P/S. However, I am having trouble removing the SATA power from the hard drive. In order to reach the cable, I need to remove the case fan next to the optical drive. There is 1 silver screw on the case fan but removing the screw doesn't seem to loosen the fan. I watched some disassembly video but couldn't pick up the clue. I tried pushing the fan side way, pulling it up, etc. It just won't budge. What am I missing?

 

[SamirD]

Folks, I need some help with my Slimline s5150t. It is not powering on. P/S green LED is on. P/S Fan is not spinning.

I unplugged the 24 pin power and tried it with a tester. P/S Fan come on. But -5V is not lit.

I tried in another P/S, everything works. So it seems like a faulty P/S. However, I am having trouble removing the SATA power from the hard drive. In order to reach the cable, I need to remove the case fan next to the optical drive. There is 1 silver screw on the case fan but removing the screw doesn't seem to loosen the fan. I watched some disassembly video but couldn't pick up the clue. I tried pushing the fan side way, pulling it up, etc. It just won't budge. What am I missing?

Try downloading the manual here. I grabbed a copy of it myself since I don't think I have the original documentation to my HP anymore:
https://www.manualslib.com/download/359314/Hp-Pavilion-Slimline-S5220f.html

 

[AirCool2]

Try downloading the manual here. I grabbed a copy of it myself since I don't think I have the original documentation to my HP anymore:
https://www.manualslib.com/download/359314/Hp-Pavilion-Slimline-S5220f.html

Thank you! I was looking for the support information and found that HP that taken it offline. The manual helped me took the fan apart! I missed the tab that held the fan in place.

 

[SamirD]

Thank you! I was looking for the support information and found that HP that taken it offline. The manual helped me took the fan apart! I missed the tab that held the fan in place.

Sweet! Yeah, I hate that HP has started to do that. It's retarded when companies do this as the storage space and pages don't cost them a thing and just allow shady places to start packing malware in everything...

 

[AirCool2]

Originally, I wanted to keep the Slimline because it fits a standard m-ATX motherboard (I think) and comes with a P/S that uses standard 24pin power and comes with 4-pin CPU power. But now my P/S is dead. I wonder if I should just write it off? Core2Duo is really old. If you have seen my earlier posts, I have spent a lot of effort to upgrade the CPU to Quad Core and failed. I like the built-in SD card reader and the overall case. Aftermarket P/S is about $40 on eBay. It is upgraded with SSD and 12GB of RAM (the only thing I miss).

I could replace it with a Lenovo M93p tiny. Should I try to save my Slimline?

 

[SamirD]

Originally, I wanted to keep the Slimline because it fits a standard m-ATX motherboard (I think) and comes with a P/S that uses standard 24pin power and comes with 4-pin CPU power. But now my P/S is dead. I wonder if I should just write it off? Core2Duo is really old. If you have seen my earlier posts, I have spent a lot of effort to upgrade the CPU to Quad Core and failed. I like the built-in SD card reader and the overall case. Aftermarket P/S is about $40 on eBay. It is upgraded with SSD and 12GB of RAM (the only thing I miss).

I could replace it with a Lenovo M93p tiny. Should I try to save my Slimline?

I just did some reading and found your posts about the cpu upgrade. Too bad HP pulled down the data on the motherboard, etc as that's what would help determine what happened. More than likely there was more than one motherboard or your bios version was too old for the newer cpu. Or the cpus were fakes as there's a lot of MF selling fakes in the lga775 series--so much so that it's hard to find a genuine one. Anything new is definitely a fake and anything from overseas or a big port city will generally be a fake too.

Anyways, the e5300 was an 800Mhz fsb processor and my guess is that the 1333Mhz fsb of the q9550 just isn't supported either because of the bios or actual hardware since it also used a different core architecture family.

But you still have a nice wallop of an upgrade possible if you replace the power supply with something good (be careful for more fakes, etc because even more cheaters in things like power supplies)--the e5800:
https://www.cpu-world.com/Compare_C...2M,Intel_AT80571PG0882ML,Intel_EU80569PJ073N/
https://www.m.cpubenchmark.net/comp...d-Q9550-vs-Intel-i3-530/1102vs1098vs1049vs737

The e5800 single thread performance is quite amazing for a dual core, actually being faster than the q9550 and even the entry level next generation i3, the i3-530. The only dual core lga775 that I've found faster is the e8600, but then again that brings us back to the fsb and core architecture issue as the e8600 is 1333. But the e8600 is only a hair faster and my e8600s feel quite fast in a single task. So you do have a cheap upgrade path.

Back to the question at hand--is it worth it to keep it running? Hmm...only you can determine that since swapping a power supply (or even running one externally) gets you up and running exactly how you're used to. And with a <$10 (legit) cpu upgrade that would give you a noticeable boost, it definitely might be worth it:
https://www.ebay.com/itm/194798465838?hash=item2d5ae4b32e:g:GEsAAOSwq05h~qzd
https://www.ebay.com/itm/165456370012?hash=item2685f7d95c:g:A3YAAOSwLCZiaqx8&LH_ItemCondition=1500

The alternative is to upgrade the mb, etc to something more modern, but it's more work that's for sure. Another option would be to use the m93p tiny since it is much faster than even the e5800 if it has the i5-4570T:
https://www.cpubenchmark.net/compar...tium-E5800-vs-Intel-i5-4570T/1098vs1102vs2041

One thing you could do that would give you the best of both worlds is to turn on the s5150t when you want to use it and just rdp into it from the m93p. This is how I use a lot of my older systems. Then you basically can leave it 'headless' and boot it up and log in any time you need it and then turn it off otherwise--or leave it on if you want (that's what I do with mine).

 

[SamirD]

And there's some people out there still rocking their s5150t with a q9300 as recently as last year:
https://browser.geekbench.com/search?q=s5150t

 

[AirCool2]

Yeah, I wish I could repeat there success. My s5150 M/B just absolutely won't boot with any quad core processors (tried 3) I threw at it. They are all genuine because I have another LGA775 desktop that I can test on. I think my M/B is an older revision and it needs a BIOS upgrade but there is none. I am not going to waste any more money on upgrading the CPU.

The issue with keeping it around is that the stand-in P/S I have is not the same size and it won't fit in the case. It is just really ugly leaving the P/S hanging outside. If I buy a replacement P/S (likely shitty), I might as well keep using it. Also RDP requires Win10 Pro and I only have Win 10 installed. But I could use other stuffs like VNC, etc. Or hack it to enable RDP server.

I guess I am leaning toward giving up on the slimline. I already got the m93p tiny. Just need to add throw in an SSD and reinstall. The only thing I miss on the slimline is 12GB of RAM and it was my main rig and most of my stuffs are on it.

BTW, any ideas how to remove the P/S? Is it just the 3 screws outside or are there some tricks to it?

 

[SamirD]

That's a shame that it hasn't worked with any quads which is a real puzzle, but like I sad, the e5800 will feel faster anyways.

Yeah, it's always been tough to find a quality power supply in that size. Luckily, servers also use them, so you might be able to get a supermicro power supply that will fit, and that will be quality.

A power supply wouldn't be much effort to just get back to what you were used to compared to the other avenues so it's also a matter of how much time you want to invest. I believe removal would be just the 3 screws, but check the hardware pdf for the exact details since I've never removed mine from my hp, just my gateway (which was 3 screws).

I did some searches on the supermicro and this one looks like a winner, and an upgrade to boot if it physically fits in the case:
https://www.ebay.com/itm/325041488111?hash=item4badfb80ef:g:AUkAAOSwZOtiA~nn&autorefresh=true

Some other candidates:
https://www.ebay.com/itm/3242525046...b7ef49243:g:ejcAAOSw7zFfLCNp&autorefresh=true
https://www.ebay.com/itm/284346954931?hash=item42346634b3:g:LzgAAOSwhaFg1fkg&autorefresh=true
https://www.ebay.com/itm/2848460676...252260fa0:g:0CUAAOSwIDxin5Kt&autorefresh=true
https://www.ebay.com/itm/1253315163...|clp:2047675&epid=1601628969&autorefresh=true
https://www.ebay.com/itm/1854327330...D%3D|ampid:PL_CLK|clp:2047675&epid=1723809536

 

[AirCool2]

Thanks for taking the time for look up P/S for me. I took a look at the listing. It seems their connectors are more limited. Some has not SATA power and even the more expensive one seems to have just 1. I don't have spare adapters around.

I guess another thing I missed with my slimline is having multiple drives. I keep an HDD for storage. Once I switched to tiny PC, I will have to go with external drives for my data, which could be a pain.

 

[SamirD]

Thanks for taking the time for look up P/S for me. I took a look at the listing. It seems their connectors are more limited. Some has not SATA power and even the more expensive one seems to have just 1. I don't have spare adapters around.

I guess another thing I missed with my slimline is having multiple drives. I keep an HDD for storage. Once I switched to tiny PC, I will have to go with external drives for my data, which could be a pain.

I forgot to mention that some of those will need splitters/adapters for drive power, etc. But that's a minor tradeoff for a reliable power supply that won't kill your components with a premature failure. Most local computer stores now carry splitters/adapters in stock so you don't have to rely on the fake crap peddled online. And that's nice because a local company won't sell crap or they'll have a livid customer standing in front of them.

You have a very good point about the internal drive. Having dealt with external drives, internal ones are always better and faster. Even with external esata there are issues at times. Nothing like a nice slimline with all the drives you need right there.

 

[AirCool2]

I initally thought my P/S is bad. But if I hook it up to a tester, it will power up and only the -5V is off. I googled and found out -5V is not needed. But plugging it back in, PC won't power on. I am confused.

 

[SamirD]

I initally thought my P/S is bad. But if I hook it up to a tester, it will power up and only the -5V is off. I googled and found out -5V is not needed. But plugging it back in, PC won't power on. I am confused.

It's probably still bad. I wouldn't trust what google says unless it's the motherboard technical docs.

 

[AirCool2]

I ended up taking out the old PSU and hacked my other PSU inside. Have to gave up my expansion slots but that's okay. It will do for now. Its days are numbered.

 

[SamirD]

I think that's the best solution atm. What 8GB memory module did you found that worked with the core duo? I'd be interested in that since my gateway actually has 4x memory slots.

 

[AirCool2]

I am using 4GBx2 DDR3 memory. It was too long ago but I think most DDR3 for desktop should work. Not sure about 8GB stick though.

 

[yousuckstoo]

Hi again
I Undervolt the processor to the limits, the results was good.
11400F never gonna boost to the max turbo speed on ITX case like this with safe temperatures
On Stock settings gaming always reachs+ 80c with Intel Specification (65 watts and 4.2Ghz All Cores)
The system runs ok, but i can feel the PSU and VRM zones very warm, the heat on the PSU on the medium and long term reduces his lifespan.
So i tried to match Intel 11400T (low power variant) Voltages and core clocks to get maximum performance with low consumption/heat
My results was great
With 0.940 VCore and 3.7Ghz Boost on all Cores with 50 watt Power limit (PL1 and PL2) shows excelents results.
I got 57-60c gaming with 3.7Ghz with sustained clocks.
Before, without touching the VCore the max turbo i got was 3.0-3.2Ghz with 50 watts power target (1.1Volts) dropping constantly to 2.6Ghz and getting close to 70C.
Next month probably gonna buy the RTX A2000, i dont think the drop on the speed clock causes bottleneck.
If you planning use this case, Undervolting GPU and CPU its a obligation to reduce power consumption and heat.
Max CPU i recommend use on this case with a high performance Cooler probably is a 12400/13400 or AMD 5600/7600 with maximum UV possible (probably dropping a few Mhz to reduce heat and power consumpyion)
Something with better wattage gonna drop the clocks to prevent burn the cpu and vrms and the temps gonna be high

 

[Ay0May0]

I got a hang of my dad's old slimline and turned into a pretty modern PC with ebay/amazon deals totaling $620. i5 11400 + RTX A2000 +16GB DDR4 + 1TB PCIE4 SSD all on an ASRock H570 itx. Wanted to get an intel 12th gen CPU build but couldn't find any LGA1700 coolers that would let me keep the DVD drive.

Added some Asus/Noctua 40mm fans for exhaust on the back and changed the loud fan on the 300W PSU to one with similar CFM to stock but 12dB quieter at max load. CPU uses a LGA1200 cooler I found on amazon with an Arctic fan swap. The 11400 is capped at 65W, boosting to 3.9 Ghz on all cores in Cinebench and reaching 72C max. RTX A2000 doesn't go over 70W or 75C at max load. The blower type cooler is surprisingly not as loud as I thought it would be. Idle temps are at 40C-44C for both. Ambient temp was 23C for all these tests, and I have a mesh filter for dust over both CPU and GPU intakes, so I think these are pretty good temps.

I think the best way to set up fans in this case would be to switch the 40mm fans in the back + the PSU fan into intake and the CPU fan into exhaust. A custom 3d printed fan duct for the CPU would be a big improvement as well, but I'm too lazy to swap everything out at this point. Other future improvements are swapping the front USB 2.0 for USB 3.0+ and swapping the DVD drive for a Blu Ray burner. These cases are pretty much the best low profile ITX boxes you can get to this day.

 

[yousuckstoo]

Hi again.
I think finally gonna build my dream Slimline
I won two aunctions a couple of days ago, one for the Low Profile RTX A2000 6GB, coming in two weeks (hopefully).
And the other for a cheap Blu Ray Reader 5.25 Drive
The disc Drive fits to tight but its ok, now i have again a Drive for play some movies and installing some abandonware i collected with the years
If you planning put a Drive on the case with a high performance cooler, i recommend use a low profile ram because can block the disc drive if you got tall RAM
The Drive fits ok with the AXP 100 Copper with 120mm Fan
i see some pressure to the the 2nd RAM slot thanks to some cables but its
Working fine
Apart for this two products, ordered a high performance thermal paste and thermal pads
I hope this adds extra cooling for the next summer to keep VRM and Processor cool and quiet

 

[yousuckstoo]

The Thermal pads and Thermal Paste arrived today

So i replace the stock VRM pads with Thermalright Valor Odin 15W/MK conductivity to get lower temps


And CPU Thermal Paste with Thermalright TFX 14.3W/MK

The best thermal paste i tested (in my opinion)
Feels "dense" compraed to other thermal paste, the performace its top notch (ignoring the liquid metal and the risks of using it)
Cpu temps dropeed from 63°c full stress to 56c
VRM temps goes down from 64c to 56c too

Im think the temps goes up to to 61-63 in summer according to the temps i read on hot weather past summer
Its ok for me
Im just waiting to the RTX A2000
Probably the RTX pads and thermal paste will be replaced, if the temps or fan speed goes too high.

 

[yousuckstoo]

Finally my RTX A2000 6GB Arrives.
I dont like the noise of the blower cooler
But im going to fix it as be possible adding some lubricant and replacing the pads and thermal paste
I think this GPU was used to minning.
Isnt too old to have the bearings dry, but if was used 24/7 thats possible

The card is small, same size vs GT 1030

The GPU can run on a 300 Watts 80 plus certified GPU
Final specs
Biostar Z490GTN Mini ITX PSU
i5 11400F @ 0,979V @3.7GHZ
65 Watts PL1 (on stress the clocks are stable, no drops)
Pcoooler 16GB DDR4 3200Mhz Dual Channel
HP SSD 120GB SATA 3 for Main OS
Toshiba 640GB 7200RPM HDD for Games
Shuttle PC60 300 watts 80 Plus Bronze PSU (best PSU for silent operation, no need to swap the fan)
Superred 50mm x25mm Fan (for HDD and SSD Cooling)
Thermalright AXP 100 Full Copper
Noiseblocker Eloop B12-P @1250RPM (completly silent on basic use and gaming) max temp on winter 56°C
PNY RTX A2000 6GB (Im Gonna replace the old thermalpads with Thermalright Valor Odin and Thermal Paste with Thermalright TFX)
HP Blu Ray SATA 5.25 Drive

 

[yousuckstoo]

Share the result of the cleaning and Undervolting the card (a must action to get safe temps on this case)
As arrived with stock pads and thermal paste, the card get too close to Overheat,reaching 85+°C and 90°C on GDDR6 NAND's with max fan speed
Replacing the pads with Thermalright Valor Odin memory modules temps drops to 84°C

Only 6C with high performance pads its a good result to me.
GPU temps with Thermalright TFX drop to 80c.
With Undervolt i got a decent decrease on temps

71-73°C stable with 625Mv, 1250Mhz locked (the card try to boost more, but it cant thanks to the power limit set to 70%)
Memory temp drop to 77°C
The fan now runs at 80%
Im happy with the results, with oil and cleaning the bearings the blower fans improved the noise
Is the noisy part of the build, but with normal volume i cant notice it gaming.
Its a massive jump from my GT 1030
Running Valhalla at minimum 30fps at HD Quality now im getting 60-50FPS Maxed Out at Full HD.
At 225 USD i payed its the best choice i ever made.

 

[Wade88]

I forgot to mention that some of those will need splitters/adapters for drive power, etc. But that's a minor tradeoff for a reliable power supply that won't kill your components with a premature failure. Most local computer stores now carry splitters/adapters in stock so you don't have to rely on the fake crap peddled online. And that's nice because a local company won't sell crap or they'll have a livid customer standing in front of them.

You have a very good point about the internal drive. Having dealt with external drives, internal ones are always better and faster. Even with external esata there are issues at times. Nothing like a nice slimline with all the drives you need right there.

External drives are misery incarnate, the answer for small computers is a server with 8 or more 3.5" slots. Before I got s free 42u rack and put a couple of 2u disk heavy servers in it I used a cooler master haf 932 with some old parts, 13 12TB disks with a 5 1/4" bay to multiple 3.5" bays adapters.

 

[yousuckstoo]

New upgrade.
I decided remove the metal piece of the case between pci brackets to see if that improves thermals (considering the blower style fan, this card needs have clear the exhaust grill to push hot air outside fast as posible)
The metal spacer between 1st and second pci express slot blocks around 50% of the holes.
I see thermals stable between 65-67 on games, after some minutes keep raising to 71-73°C , incresing fan speed dont help to decrease temps.
My theory is the temps increases because the hot air stays inside thanks to the metal piece blocking the exhaust holes.
I share results later
Edit:
After 30 minutes gaming, i see a 3°C drop vs keep the metal bracket.
Not as good i expect, but its something.
Replacing thermal paste+ thermal pads+ UV+ Removing case pci bracket you can decrease 15°C without lose performance.

 

[Ay0May0]

After a bit more testing, exhaust instead of intake fan orientation on the CPU cooler is the way to go. Got a scythe Big Shurken 3, and with a 120mmx25mm Noctua or Arctic fan swap it is the best possible cooling setup for this case while still allowing for ram + dvd drive capability.

Also, it seems using a BluRay drive to play BluRay media is only possible with Intel 6th-10th gen CPUs. Those processors carry the SGX instructions that allow for playback of BlueRay content with DRM. No AMD processors nor the newer 11th-13th gen Intel support it.

 

[yousuckstoo]

New upgrades incoming:
The VRM heatsink feels extremly hot after gaming sessions
Gonna replace the stock VRM aluminum heatsink with full copper heatsinks from Alphacool.


Just waiting a tube of thermal glue to attach it on the vrm
Second i ordered USB 3.0 front header ports to replace the broken USB 2.0 (both plastic covers brokes at the same time, maybe for his age, and my "fix" with non conductive glue only worked a couple days)
At this moment only one works
Lastly ill replace SATA SSD with a cheap 128gb NVME just for the OS.
Maybe in the future i ll try replace the blower fan, i have a 50mm fan dettached from the frame to experiment

With some time and effort could be possible get similar temps with a normal fan
Main problem is how to regulate the fan, only has 2 pin against 4 mini pin of the blower
And test if a regular fan can produce the same air pressure vs the blower fan.
Only gonna do this if the blower start makes strange noises again and cannot be repaired

 

[yousuckstoo]

Now my Slimline have two USB 3.0 front ports.
I bought a cheap Aliexpress USB 3.0 front header to replace broken USB 2 front ports
You need cut with a razor blade or a knife a plastic cover to fit the header on the shroud and add tape or glue to prevent some movement when you plug something on the ports.
A must upgrade to replace the slow USB 2.0 headers
If you do this upgrade, try to get low profile or flat cables, i ordered a round cables, the clearance are minimal, you need a lot of patience to screw and put correctly the mic usb front ports.
The cables bends too much, but works fine, i think flat cables will provide enogh clearance


.

 

[yousuckstoo]

Thermal glue arrived so i replace the stock VRM heatsink with copper blocks.
Temps seems ok, i see a 5°c drop with HW Info, the psu dont suffer overheating (on winter VRM stays cool but as soon temps go higher the vrm heat go up to the PSU causing the fan ramp uo 100%)
Installed the NVME to upgrade the OS in the future


The proyect is completed at this point, any upgrade possible need replace many parts (CPU, RAM and motherboard).
If you planning build a gaming rig qith this case consider spend more money on the Motherboard, it has to be good VRM heatsink to prevent overheating to the PSU.
And put 32GB of RAM, some games maxed out RAM