The [H]ardForum Perpetual Freebies Thread

As I've said, I've an eBay message into the seller, see if that device has actual circuitry in it or if it's just wires. If it's just wires, I know it won't work...

I'll post on here when I get a response. Let's table it till then, OK? Speculation doesn't have much point ;)
 
As I've said, I've an eBay message into the seller, see if that device has actual circuitry in it or if it's just wires. If it's just wires, I know it won't work...

I'll post on here when I get a response. Let's table it till then, OK? Speculation doesn't have much point ;)

eBay sellers often don't know what they're selling. Or lie. You've run into this problem before.
 
True. I've also got an email into my local tech shop dude to confirm ;) he's busy tho, so it may be a bit before I hear back from him.
 
I'm looking for a 775 Core2 quad core cpu if anyone has one they could spare. willing to pay shipping of course. :D

hey i'm in for one too if there's one available. Big chance of that happen. again, if anyone need some of older stuff, let me know what ya looking for.
 
Sounds fun. Pity I don't have anything exactly that old anymore. I've a 386, but that system is most certainly not for sale.
 
Update re: VGA adapter. Got an email from the eBay seller, and they did nothing other than restate the (completely useless) information on the listing. Sadly, that didn't surprise me terribly much.

Here is my reply, engineered a little to try and get a meaningful response...

That tells me nothing. If I buy it, and it doesn't work, you're getting either neutral or negative feedback depending on whether or not a return goes through. You have no business selling anything, if you know (almost) nothing about what you try to sell.

People who sell stuff but have no idea what they're selling or anything about the product really, really piss me off. My maternal grandfather (aka "Grandpa Cliff") was known to say, "anything worth doing is worth doing well". He had a point.
/rant

BTW, if one reads the description carefully... it is implied but not directly stated that it does more than just a "wires" conversion... there's the suggestion that it might have a scan converter in it. But they don't say it outright, so I'm not sure.
 
BTW, if one reads the description carefully... it is implied but not directly stated that it does more than just a "wires" conversion... there's the suggestion that it might have a scan converter in it. But they don't say it outright, so I'm not sure.

Stop deluding yourself with wishful thinking. You tend to be your own worst enemy in that regards.

Do research. Find brands with models that you KNOW also do scan conversion and look for those models on eBay. Don't waste your time relying on sellers who don't know what the hell they are selling. They don't care if you leave them a negative. They already have your money by that point.
 
With the kind of economic and tax brackets I fall into, a name-brand scan converter is simply not going to happen. If I can't get it for $20, including shipping, I can't get it. (An off-brand "real" scan converter is $30+.)

I'm hoping they care about their eBay reputation enough to make a call to someone with knowledge.
 
With the kind of economic and tax brackets I fall into, a name-brand scan converter is simply not going to happen. If I can't get it for $20, including shipping, I can't get it. (An off-brand "real" scan converter is $30+.)

I'm hoping they care about their eBay reputation enough to make a call to someone with knowledge.

Why not save a little bit or buy one thing instead of two? Wasting time and energy on something that isn't right is worse than not being able to do everything you want.
 
I only really have one thing to buy... the HDMI->VGA adapter.

If someone wants to *give* me (I can't pay even shipping right now!) a DVI-compatible display, I'll take it. 15" diagonal would be about right for me, and then I'd need an HDMI->DVI adapter -- and that IS just wires, so it's safe to get on eBay without the mess.

...since I don't exactly see that happening, I think I'll try to work within the confines (and it is confining) of what I can afford to get (and use with what I've already got).
 
With the kind of economic and tax brackets I fall into, a name-brand scan converter is simply not going to happen. If I can't get it for $20, including shipping, I can't get it. (An off-brand "real" scan converter is $30+.)

I'm hoping they care about their eBay reputation enough to make a call to someone with knowledge.

And we're back to the same situation you put yourself in before: By buying crap you cannot be sure of and ending up with more garbage than you can't use... you actually waste more money buying stuff you can't use rather than saving up for something you CAN use and KNOW will work.

Do I need to remind you about the mITX mobo fiasco? You could have bought a brand new one for less than the money you wasted dealing with faulty boards from eBay sellers who didn't give a shit.
 
I work with what I have and can get. Sometimes (often) this involves taking a risk. Life is full of those. If you can't handle the risks of life, then you should probably choose not to involve yourself in life.

I'm willing to take this risk, and it's my risk to take. I know that I have ways of minimizing my risk...
(1) confirm with seller (as much as possible) as to whether or not the device will work for me.
(2) ensure that the seller knows that there will be consequences for furnishing me with a nonfunctional device.
(3) if all else fails, paypal claim. If it doesn't work, then it was not received as described in the listing. I can (and probably will) file a complaint with eBay as well -- if enough people do that, the seller will be removed from eBay (until they figure out how to get back on with a dupe account, of course).

If you want to continue this discussion (argument) you're welcome to shoot me a PM with your objections. I would prefer to avoid a mod coming in here and cleaning us up if at all possible, so let's not clutter the thread further.

EDIT: one other thing... the mobo fiasco was a one-person op, it happened exactly once, and it was dealt with. I do not expect that to reasonably come up again.
 
And we're back to the same situation you put yourself in before: By buying crap you cannot be sure of and ending up with more garbage than you can't use... you actually waste more money buying stuff you can't use rather than saving up for something you CAN use and KNOW will work.

Do I need to remind you about the mITX mobo fiasco? You could have bought a brand new one for less than the money you wasted dealing with faulty boards from eBay sellers who didn't give a shit.

he does have a point Starhawk...this is a lesson I am also still learning
 
Whether or not it's true...
If you want to continue this discussion (argument) you're welcome to shoot me a PM with your objections. I would prefer to avoid a mod coming in here and cleaning us up if at all possible, so let's not clutter the thread further.
 
Stuff that I am Looking For:

Looking for modular cable parts: Specifically the bits that become 6 pin PCIe Connectors for GPUs. 6+2 (8 pin) bits also fine as long as the +2 is unattached. Ultimately need two 6 pin PCIe connectors.

i might have two in spare. i can check when i go home this weekend (or if i've here at dorm room) what PSU are you using, as i'm not sure they all have same connection on PSU end. i'think the one i've is regular 8 pin at PSU connector and 6+2 on graphic card end. send me PM for reminder and i'll let you know tomorrow. i'm cleaning atm so i might find it today.

Looking for

hi guys, i'm looking for good 4 pin 80mm fan if someone has one laying around and can spare me one.
 
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Anyone needing a 20 pin psu? I have two available. U pay the mailing costs. Also I'm needing a 24 pin psu. Needs to have two/three sata connectors.

added: one empty Logitech mx revolution box with the insides.



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Anyone needing a 20 pin psu? I have two available. U pay the mailing costs. Also I'm needing a 24 pin psu. Needs to have two/three sata connectors.

Majority of motherboards will take a 20 pin power supply even if the socket is 24 pin. They're keyed and will still only let you plug it in one way.

added: one empty Logitech mx revolution box with the insides.

Uh. Seriously? That's your freebie?
 
Withdrawing the speaker set (in a post of mine a few pages back) from sale. I think I'll try and fix it...

I'm looking for a Pentium M 765 CPU, either an SL7UZ or SL7V3. I'll ask for a picture of the pin side before you ship it, to determine compatibility. There are two different socket 479 /physical/ layouts, and I really don't want to waste your time and my money on something that won't fit. This will be going on an Axiomtek SBC86807 v2.0, and it only supports a 400MHz FSB, so the faster Pentium M's that have a 533MHz FSB won't work. They'll downclock and (eventually) burn out the chipset. (I've done this on 462 boards! It's not fun at all... one day you try to boot your system and everything works EXCEPT graphics...)

I'd gladly trade anything I've put up here that (duh) hasn't been claimed already, or the 1.7ghz P-M on the Axiomtek board now (I'm not sure but I *think* it's an SL7EP -- don't hold me to that!)...

Thanks folks...
 
UP FOR GRABS:
[PENDING]Netgear F5605 v3 5 Port 10/100 Ethernet Switch.[/PENDING]
1x Molex > 2x SATA Power adapter.*
1x Molex > 1x SATA Power adapter.*
2x New, sealed SATA data cables, approximately one foot in length.
1x Linksys WUSB54G ver. 4 Wi-Fi adapter. (Not a dongle, uses old-school USB cable that printers normally use, great reception.)

Looking for:
120mm case fans.

Shipping will be approximately $5 for the switch, and $1 for the cables in the continental United States.
Canadians are probably better-off just buying a brand new switch; as it would be pricey, and take forever to ship mine.
This is coming from Delta, Pennsylvania 17314.

*You should not use the Molex > SATA power adapters on newer hard disks/optical drives. Only the 12V, and 5V rails are supplied by the adapters, and some drives require an additional 3.3V rail.
 
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UP FOR GRABS: Netgear F5605 v3 5 Port 10/100 Ethernet Switch.
Looking for: 120mm case fans.

Shipping will be approximately $5 for the continental United States. Canadians are probably better-off just buying a brand new switch; as it would be pricey, and take forever to ship mine.
This is coming from Delta, Pennsylvania 17314.

PM'd!
 
Still want the SL7UZ or SL7V3 Pentium M.

Got two more things I'll put up here. Networking gear I can't use.

One is a Hawking PN236ES. It's a 16port switch, 10/100 (I know, it's a little old...). Takes 3.3v 4a but I don't have the brick and don't know where to get one. (TBH I was going to hook it up to an ATX PSU to test it, but I never got around to it...)

The other is a 3com Super Stack II, model # 3C16611, part # 1661-110-000-8.0. This will be a little expensive to ship, as it's heavy AND it won't quite fit in a Medium Flat Rate (the thin FRB-02 one)... but I can ship it for sure. It does have rackmount brackets on it, although I'm not entirely sure they're supposed to be there...

LMK if you want these (or have a CPU for me). Thanks folks!
 
I need a new fan or heatsink/fan combo for this card:

http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16814130316

The bearings in the one I have are shot and the fan won't spin. I'd prefer to have a fan that plugs directly into the 2-pin header on the board, but I might be able to mod it if the specs are close. If it's a replacement cooler, the push-pins are 80mm apart (on center) from top left to bottom right (looking at the card with the heatsink side towards you and the PCIe fingers at the bottom).

If anyone has one that might work, I would gladly pay shipping.

Also, I need to replace the LCD screen in a Dell Latitude D520. This screen is 12" x 9" and is Dell PN RD997:

http://www.laptopscreen.com/English/laptop-part-number/Dell/RD997/
 
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I need a new fan or heatsink/fan combo for this card:

http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16814130316

The bearings in the one I have are shot and the fan won't spin. I'd prefer to have a fan that plugs directly into the 2-pin header on the board, but I might be able to mod it if the specs are close. If it's a replacement cooler, the push-pins are 80mm apart (on center) from top left to bottom right (looking at the card with the heatsink side towards you and the PCIe fingers at the bottom).

If anyone has one that might work, I would gladly pay shipping.

If yuo can't find one , you can always fix it :) take teh e clip off the center shaft of the fan clean it up re-oil it and poof will work again.. done it thousands of times on rare equipment..
 
...as a note, the SuperStackII is a /hub/. IIRC it says "Dual Speed Hub 500" on the front. The Hawking switch is indeed such, however.

My understanding (however rudimentary) is that there is some significant difference in how they operate.
 
This is a bit of an odd request. Does anyone have the tin product case from the AMD FX series of processors? I recently got the FX-8150 and I want to use the tin case it came in as a speaker stand. I'll need one more tin case like it to put my other speaker on. I can pay shipping (via Amazon wallet, and I'm in zip code 93647). The case looks like this:

431017_467663153257797_1673847433_n.jpg


It would be awesome if someone could help me out. I've given away here before (wireless B/G card, video card).
 
...as a note, the SuperStackII is a /hub/. IIRC it says "Dual Speed Hub 500" on the front. The Hawking switch is indeed such, however.

My understanding (however rudimentary) is that there is some significant difference in how they operate.

Indeed, there is. From my (possibly incorrect) understanding of it, when a packet is sent from a computer to a "dumb" hub, it is broadcast to all of the other computers simultaneously. With a switch, the packets are routed only to the intended target.
 
Joseph F, your understanding is the same as mine ;)

...doesn't mean it's necessarily correct, though...
 
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