The 2.6GHz quest of a 2500+ Barton...

R

RickyJ

Gawd
Joined
Jun 9, 2004
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I'm getting very close to 2.6GHz, but keep stopping a few MHz short. :(

I got into XP and fiddled around a bit at 2584MHz, but it wasn't too stable. 2.1V through the Vcore mod on my A7N8X-X, any more and it won't get to post. Right now I'm idling at 44C (not onboard sensors). Gonna do the Vdd mod soon, tomorrow hopefully, so I can drop the multi and crank the FSB like I should be doing with this TCCD.

So all things considered, this non-mobile chip is doing pretty well, but it's not meeting my 2.6GHz goal. :eek:

Suggestions? Comments?

Here's a shrunk pic:
vcore.JPG
 
you know, for all your efforts, you can just bought an a64 and get better performance?

oh yeah, no means no rules!
 
thermoelectrics ARE expensive, but they are keeping me at 2.6 without any mods on the board, and load temps that don't top 25 C.

oh well, i guess that i just fealt like bragging.

are you planning on cooling your voltage regulation chip?

is it even getting hot?

i can see that you have heatsinks of some sort on your mosfets...............
 
bios flash? helped me out on my nf7s from 220mhz at 2.4 wall to 2.7 at 240, or 250 at 2.4

is ur fluid supposed to be white? or is that air? might get better temps, and a better clock as a result if you clean that out :)

also cool the mosfets better, more stable voltage means more stable system :) sink up and fan cool everything, nb, sb, pll, mosfets, all this should get ya that little bit extra to get ya there!

ok correction, u look like u DO have everything sinked, just fan them lol
 
Hey, Xero, what type of bios did you use for your Nf7. I was goin to switch to a modded one, but I use the sata raid and dont want to corrupt anything. Also, I heard the cpc off bios' lose some performance even though they allow you to get a higher fsb. If the bios you used was real stable, lemme know what it is.
 
I can't say for sure I remember which it was, i tried 13 different bioses(13ish) and was dissatisfied with the board to the point where i almost boxed it up, but i gave it one last shot and used a bios modded by TicTac AND maverS (http://underclock.rocks.it i think) and it just took off from there. It just opened up a whole new realm with that board. I can't say this board will work for you, but try a bunch of bioses, and keep an IDE HDD with a bootable partition and OS on it, incase u get the wrong sata version. TicTac NORMALLY releases two versions of his bios, one with each version of the satas. I think you can fix it with a floppy and a boot to command prompt if u dont have a spare IDE. hope this helped....
 
joethemole said:
you know, for all your efforts, you can just bought an a64 and get better performance?

oh yeah, no means no rules!
Click to expand...
The only stuff I've bought since July is the PSU (needed anyways) and the TCCD (needed for A64 build anyhow). I know a simple A64 setup would kill this rig, but school and other crazy projects suck most of my money away. A64 will come later, but I'll have to get a new case and PSU for that....front mounted rad is very desirable.

One of my probes says that the VR chip is only 45C when I'm pushing 2.1V, so I don't think there's a temperature issue there. I usually have an 80mm fan at the end of my video card for cooling the card and southbridge, but I didn't bother this time as I wanted to play with the Vcore. The power mosfets are ~45C at the tips of the sinks, so a fan would definately make things nicer for that.

I'm using 7 month old distilled water and Zerex, and it's usually pinkish. The Zerex makes the water form tiny bubbles easily, and gives it a white-ish look, and the camera flash made things worse. I was gonna flush the system and use distilled water and an anti-algae tablet, but haven't gotten around to that yet.

I just wanted to boot into Windows and play around a bit at 2.6GHz, for shits and giggles. It won't be stable there without some even funkier cooling, which I don't think I'll be doing. The RBX block is too skinny for a pelt anyhow... :eek:
 
yeah, i wasn't seriously proposing that you add peltier modules to your existing system.

the RBX is just not made for them, regardless of how you choose to look at it............
 
phase cool it and i bet it will go even higher. Especially since its surviving 2.1v under water/
 
2.5 is nice and stable at 2.0V and 40C idle.

My Zalman (Fortron 400W) PSU is getting fairly warm.... :eek:
 
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