Shield the displayport cable with it.what exactly did you do with the tape??
I have the 6ft one as well. Tell us what you find. I immediately noticed the smoothness in game and feel like I was missing frames before because 120hz is supposed to be like butter and before it was not for some reason.Ordered the cable (I need the 6' foot version unfortunately, 3' wont make it) and the tape. Thx.
How much tape do you need for 3ft cable?I have the 6ft one as well. Tell us what you find. I immediately noticed the smoothness in game and feel like I was missing frames before because 120hz is supposed to be like butter and before it was not for some reason.
Good now though!
For the 6ft cable I used the 1in. x 10ft. and applied it in parallel directly from one end to the other and overlapped it to seal it, helps if you have someone else there with you to hold the cable while you run it down the cable. I did not apply it in a spiral fashion around the length of the cable, but I did wrap it around the connector end from where it starts to around the relief to mate it up to the parallel length. I had about 3 ft left over.How much tape do you need for 3ft cable?
Are you sure you were actually getting 120 fps, from a hardware/performance standpoint? 4K at 120fps in almost any modern game....is a Nope. I get like 60-80 fps in Assassins Creed Odyssey. Still feels smooth with g-sync thoI have the 6ft one as well. Tell us what you find. I immediately noticed the smoothness in game and feel like I was missing frames before because 120hz is supposed to be like butter and before it was not for some reason.
Good now though!
I hear yah but I play an old ass game called Planetside 2 religiously where I maintain 117 fps easily (frame limiter to 117 for VRR purposes), and I definitely noticed the difference. The GPU was pumping steady 117 fps and the display was not as smooth before with the stock long cable and even a 6ft displayport 1.2 cable. Coming from other 120hz/144hz monitors I knew something was up and the 6ft 1.4 cable made the difference. It is a ton of data being transferred and need to keep that bandwidth up.Are you sure you were actually getting 120 fps, from a hardware/performance standpoint? 4K at 120fps in almost any modern game....is a Nope. I get like 60-80 fps in Assassins Creed Odyssey. Still feels smooth with g-sync tho
Did you notice burn in before you turned it off?aaaannnnnd shit, I fell asleep and left the monitor on the desktop. Static icons (background wall paper cycles about every 5 x minutes and task bar auto-hides) but icons are stagnant. Probably about 8 hours of those things just sitting there burning
of course when I turned off the monitor, it suggested doing that "pixel refresh" that it seems to do every now and then, and it looks fine today. Before anyone asks.... Windows 10 putting the monitor to sleep after xx minutes does NOT work for me. Probably has to do with the number of USB devices I have connected or some other unknown Windows quirk
Nope, but I didn't look. Walked into my office, saw the monitor had been left on over night, and was like "FU*K!!!", hit the power button on the remote, agreed to pixel refresh and left the room for a whileDid you notice burn in before you turned it off?
Return of the screen-saver my dude. I have mine to come up at 10 min as a contingency for things just like this. Great monitors always need screen-savers, CRT and now OLED, everything in between was a placeholderNope, but I didn't look. Walked into my office, saw the monitor had been left on over night, and was like "FU*K!!!", hit the power button on the remote, agreed to pixel refresh and left the room for a while
Hey bud, about the DP 1.4 cable....Return of the screen-saver my dude. I have mine to come up at 10 min as a contingency for things just like this. Great monitors always need screen-savers, CRT and now OLED, everything in between was a placeholder
2080 Ti supports DP 1.4 just fine. I really doubt shielding tape will do anything wrapped around a cable. The cable already has a full shield braid in it. Either the cable is defective or you could try a different port on the GPU.Hey bud, about the DP 1.4 cable....
I ordered the same one from your link. I cant get any signal to the monitor using it vs factory cable. Im running a 2080 Ti. Is this the issue?
Ive tested it a fair bit, like I'll run the factory cable out of one of the 2080 Tis outputs and plug it into the monitor, and boom, working signal. Then I'll plug the 1.4 cable into the monitor, and no matter what, i get the "no signal entering power save mode" thing. Ive tried all the DP outputs on my video card (it has 3 x) and none give a signal
The only thing I havent tried yet is rebooting with the new cable plugged in (Im copying some large files right now and need those to finish before I test that)
But any reason you think this cable wouldn't work with a 2080 Ti? I know the 2080 Ti doesnt even support DP 1.4 but I thought thats the kind of card you were running as well. Shame to have wasted all that shielding tape on the new cable if its just gonna end up in the junk box!
Edit: I see you are running at Titan V. I wonder if my 2080 Ti wont even output via that 1.4 cable? Seems really unlikely but who knows??
Noticed that, sometimes on desktop it won't launch and it does in game when I walk away for 10 min, sometimes crashing the game. Agree that screensaver is broken and not guaranteed unfortunately.Biggest issue with screensavers is some application keeping them away. Same with sleep or hibernate.
Would be nice to have a way of listing out culprits, but it's not bad behavior on the part of Windows, it's functioning as designed.
I replied with this a few back that has some links to "hacks" in order to get dithering able to be turned on with nvidia gaming gpus. (That being from the perspective of regular use without using the new displayport adapter).
Nvidia does have support for full dithering control by the user apparently, just not on their gaming cards in windows. So theoretically if they wanted to they could add both 10bit over hdmi and dithering controls at some point. (Maybe we'll get a 10bit internal Lut for windows instead of the current 8bit, unlike Linux's 11bit apparently, someday as well).
Here is a recent method below from 4months ago that has what seems like a good method, though I haven't tried it myself on any of my monitors. I don't represent that app at all so use at your own risk. It was made not just for dithering for for icc color profiles (color management in the may windows update has some bugs though apparently). However it does have dithering controls built in so should be able to use it just for that. The most recent readme update was from January 2020 and the current exe date lists as 2-18-2020.
View attachment 263775
User - sonicblue83
You can try the app below which applies it through the Nvidia API instead of the reg key.
If the Nvidia API status is success (code 0) click Check Gradient. If the gradient is unsmooth, try a hard reboot. If it's still unsmooth, see this post:
The app also includes some automatic behaviour to try and prevent dithering from dropping out:
1. Disabling dithering at Windows shutdown
2. Refreshing dithering at display mode change
3. Refreshing dithering at display hardware change
4. Refreshing dithering at entering/exiting low power state
5. Refreshing dithering at game launch/exit
1 seems to be necessary to prevent it from dropping out after a reboot.
Only 1, 3 and 4 are enabled by default, as 2 and 5 have caveats.
You can still enable 2 and 5 through the Config.ini file, although it's not recommended. For details open the Readme file and see Config.ini settings - Dithering.
If for some reason the Enable Dithering checkbox is greyed out, try DitherForceSupport=1 in Config.ini.
Nice! This works quite well. Shame it cant apply it to individual monitors though. Have to unload this config when I want to use my 2nd monitor.
Yes, unfortunately per-monitor calibration is not supported (see Readme file Q&A General section for explanation). However you can still control which monitors receive the calibration, if that is of use to you. For example to only apply calibration to monitor 1, set MultiMonitorDeviceContext=1 in Config.ini. To only apply to monitors 1 and 3, MultiMonitorDeviceContext=1,3 To apply to 1 and 3, but unload monitor 2, MultiMonitorDeviceContext=1,-2,3 (minus means unload). Then restart the app and use the Hijack Test tool to confirm the intended monitors are(n't) turning green. Dithering is always applied to all monitors and that behaviour cannot be changed. If you only want to use the app for dithering, and use another app for calibration, just don't select any calibration files to begin with. If you have already selected calibration files and want to stop applying them, right click tray icon -> Factory Reset.