Sweet Baby Jeebus Alienware 55" 4k120 OLED Displayport

[skypine27]

what exactly did you do with the tape??

 

[Stryker7314]

what exactly did you do with the tape??

Shield the displayport cable with it.

Wrapped the cable from where the DP terminal "plastic" begins from end to end, theoretically reducing EMI/RF contamination of the signal, making for a stronger/higher bandwidth signal. Although signals are digital and either it's received or not, there is still error correction and the "Link Training process determines the maximum possible speed of the connection" for a reason.

 

[skypine27]

Ordered the cable (I need the 6' foot version unfortunately, 3' wont make it) and the tape. Thx.

 

[Stryker7314]

Ordered the cable (I need the 6' foot version unfortunately, 3' wont make it) and the tape. Thx.

I have the 6ft one as well. Tell us what you find. I immediately noticed the smoothness in game and feel like I was missing frames before because 120hz is supposed to be like butter and before it was not for some reason.

Good now though!

 

[Murzilka]

I have the 6ft one as well. Tell us what you find. I immediately noticed the smoothness in game and feel like I was missing frames before because 120hz is supposed to be like butter and before it was not for some reason.

Good now though!

How much tape do you need for 3ft cable?

 

[Stryker7314]

How much tape do you need for 3ft cable?

For the 6ft cable I used the 1in. x 10ft. and applied it in parallel directly from one end to the other and overlapped it to seal it, helps if you have someone else there with you to hold the cable while you run it down the cable. I did not apply it in a spiral fashion around the length of the cable, but I did wrap it around the connector end from where it starts to around the relief to mate it up to the parallel length. I had about 3 ft left over.

Smallest they have now is 2.5 x 10 for $20 but the 1 x 10 comes in stock often and was only $10.

To answer your question the 1 x 10 will be plenty and anything more will do just fine too with some left over, or you can double it up.

 

[skypine27]

I have the 6ft one as well. Tell us what you find. I immediately noticed the smoothness in game and feel like I was missing frames before because 120hz is supposed to be like butter and before it was not for some reason.

Good now though!

Are you sure you were actually getting 120 fps, from a hardware/performance standpoint? 4K at 120fps in almost any modern game....is a Nope. I get like 60-80 fps in Assassins Creed Odyssey. Still feels smooth with g-sync tho

 

[Stryker7314]

Are you sure you were actually getting 120 fps, from a hardware/performance standpoint? 4K at 120fps in almost any modern game....is a Nope. I get like 60-80 fps in Assassins Creed Odyssey. Still feels smooth with g-sync tho

I hear yah but I play an old ass game called Planetside 2 religiously where I maintain 117 fps easily (frame limiter to 117 for VRR purposes), and I definitely noticed the difference. The GPU was pumping steady 117 fps and the display was not as smooth before with the stock long cable and even a 6ft displayport 1.2 cable. Coming from other 120hz/144hz monitors I knew something was up and the 6ft 1.4 cable made the difference. It is a ton of data being transferred and need to keep that bandwidth up.

Modern games definitely take a hit at max settings, I tend to reduce settings where the higher option is not noticeable but taxes the system, or things I flat out don't like such as motion blur, post-processing, vignetting, Depth of Field all that junk that's just non-sense to me

 

[skypine27]

aaaannnnnd shit, I fell asleep and left the monitor on the desktop. Static icons (background wall paper cycles about every 5 x minutes and task bar auto-hides) but icons are stagnant. Probably about 8 hours of those things just sitting there burning

of course when I turned off the monitor, it suggested doing that "pixel refresh" that it seems to do every now and then, and it looks fine today. Before anyone asks.... Windows 10 putting the monitor to sleep after xx minutes does NOT work for me. Probably has to do with the number of USB devices I have connected or some other unknown Windows quirk

 

[kasakka]

aaaannnnnd shit, I fell asleep and left the monitor on the desktop. Static icons (background wall paper cycles about every 5 x minutes and task bar auto-hides) but icons are stagnant. Probably about 8 hours of those things just sitting there burning

of course when I turned off the monitor, it suggested doing that "pixel refresh" that it seems to do every now and then, and it looks fine today. Before anyone asks.... Windows 10 putting the monitor to sleep after xx minutes does NOT work for me. Probably has to do with the number of USB devices I have connected or some other unknown Windows quirk

Did you notice burn in before you turned it off?

 

[skypine27]

Did you notice burn in before you turned it off?

Nope, but I didn't look. Walked into my office, saw the monitor had been left on over night, and was like "FU*K!!!", hit the power button on the remote, agreed to pixel refresh and left the room for a while

 

[Stryker7314]

Nope, but I didn't look. Walked into my office, saw the monitor had been left on over night, and was like "FU*K!!!", hit the power button on the remote, agreed to pixel refresh and left the room for a while

Return of the screen-saver my dude. I have mine to come up at 10 min as a contingency for things just like this. Great monitors always need screen-savers, CRT and now OLED, everything in between was a placeholder

 

[Vega]

People are running OLED's with PC and no screen-saver turned on? Yeesh.

 

[skypine27]

Yup! Well, NOW im running a screen saver LOL

 

[Lateralus]

People are running OLED's with PC and no screen-saver turned on? Yeesh.

 

[skypine27]

Return of the screen-saver my dude. I have mine to come up at 10 min as a contingency for things just like this. Great monitors always need screen-savers, CRT and now OLED, everything in between was a placeholder

Hey bud, about the DP 1.4 cable....

I ordered the same one from your link. I cant get any signal to the monitor using it vs factory cable. Im running a 2080 Ti. Is this the issue?

Ive tested it a fair bit, like I'll run the factory cable out of one of the 2080 Tis outputs and plug it into the monitor, and boom, working signal. Then I'll plug the 1.4 cable into the monitor, and no matter what, i get the "no signal entering power save mode" thing. Ive tried all the DP outputs on my video card (it has 3 x) and none give a signal

The only thing I havent tried yet is rebooting with the new cable plugged in (Im copying some large files right now and need those to finish before I test that)

But any reason you think this cable wouldn't work with a 2080 Ti? I know the 2080 Ti doesnt even support DP 1.4 but I thought thats the kind of card you were running as well. Shame to have wasted all that shielding tape on the new cable if its just gonna end up in the junk box!

Edit: I see you are running at Titan V. I wonder if my 2080 Ti wont even output via that 1.4 cable? Seems really unlikely but who knows??

 

[kasakka]

Hey bud, about the DP 1.4 cable....

I ordered the same one from your link. I cant get any signal to the monitor using it vs factory cable. Im running a 2080 Ti. Is this the issue?

Ive tested it a fair bit, like I'll run the factory cable out of one of the 2080 Tis outputs and plug it into the monitor, and boom, working signal. Then I'll plug the 1.4 cable into the monitor, and no matter what, i get the "no signal entering power save mode" thing. Ive tried all the DP outputs on my video card (it has 3 x) and none give a signal

The only thing I havent tried yet is rebooting with the new cable plugged in (Im copying some large files right now and need those to finish before I test that)

But any reason you think this cable wouldn't work with a 2080 Ti? I know the 2080 Ti doesnt even support DP 1.4 but I thought thats the kind of card you were running as well. Shame to have wasted all that shielding tape on the new cable if its just gonna end up in the junk box!

Edit: I see you are running at Titan V. I wonder if my 2080 Ti wont even output via that 1.4 cable? Seems really unlikely but who knows??

2080 Ti supports DP 1.4 just fine. I really doubt shielding tape will do anything wrapped around a cable. The cable already has a full shield braid in it. Either the cable is defective or you could try a different port on the GPU.

 

[skypine27]

Update, ya a simple reboot fixed the no signal problem.

Now running the new 1.4 cable + shielding (although I never really noticed the problems Stryker was having, I figured "it couldn't hurt" and wasn't expensive)

But speaking of you screensaver Nazis, half the time they dont work. Doesn't work for me. No matter what I set in the windows 10 settings, a screen saver will not come on, nor will the monitor go to sleep. You can google "windows screen saver wont come on" and "Windows wont put my monitor to sleep" and the forum posts are endless. Seems like it usually comes down to a particular USB device plugged. I have so many plugged in between headset, joystick, hell I have an RGB mouse pad lol.....

A screen saver and/or turning the monitor off simply isnt likely to happen over here !

 

[IdiotInCharge]

Biggest issue with screensavers is some application keeping them away. Same with sleep or hibernate.

Would be nice to have a way of listing out culprits, but it's not bad behavior on the part of Windows, it's functioning as designed.

 

[Stryker7314]

Biggest issue with screensavers is some application keeping them away. Same with sleep or hibernate.

Would be nice to have a way of listing out culprits, but it's not bad behavior on the part of Windows, it's functioning as designed.

Noticed that, sometimes on desktop it won't launch and it does in game when I walk away for 10 min, sometimes crashing the game. Agree that screensaver is broken and not guaranteed unfortunately.

 

[Stryker7314]

Credit to elvn for making us aware of this awesome tool (Calibration Tools). Running 8-bit + dithering on the AW55 now without having to activate HDR.

Link to thread: https://hardforum.com/threads/lg-48cx.1991077/page-79

I replied with this a few back that has some links to "hacks" in order to get dithering able to be turned on with nvidia gaming gpus. (That being from the perspective of regular use without using the new displayport adapter).




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https://hub.displaycal.net/forums/topic/how-to-enable-dithering-on-nvidia-geforce-with-windows-os/

https://www.reddit.com/r/nvidia/comments/aghfqk/dithering_can_now_be_enabled_via_registry_tweak/

https://www.nvidia.com/en-us/geforc...m-nvidia-x-server-to-geforce-driver-/#5934577


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Nvidia does have support for full dithering control by the user apparently, just not on their gaming cards in windows. So theoretically if they wanted to they could add both 10bit over hdmi and dithering controls at some point. (Maybe we'll get a 10bit internal Lut for windows instead of the current 8bit, unlike Linux's 11bit apparently, someday as well).

Here is a recent method below from 4months ago that has what seems like a good method, though I haven't tried it myself on any of my monitors. I don't represent that app at all so use at your own risk. It was made not just for dithering for for icc color profiles (color management in the may windows update has some bugs though apparently). However it does have dithering controls built in so should be able to use it just for that. The most recent readme update was from January 2020 and the current exe date lists as 2-18-2020.
https://bitbucket.org/CalibrationTools/calibration-tools/src/master/

https://bitbucket.org/CalibrationTools/calibration-tools/downloads/

View attachment 263775




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https://www.nvidia.com/en-us/geforc...-to-port-dithering-from-nvidia-x-ser/2421010/
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User - sonicblue83
You can try the app below which applies it through the Nvidia API instead of the reg key.

https://tiny.cc/CalibrationTools

https://i1.lensdump.com/i/j10v6m.png

If the Nvidia API status is success (code 0) click Check Gradient. If the gradient is unsmooth, try a hard reboot. If it's still unsmooth, see this post:
https://hub.displaycal.net/forums/topic/windows-10-1903-please-read/

The app also includes some automatic behaviour to try and prevent dithering from dropping out:
1. Disabling dithering at Windows shutdown
2. Refreshing dithering at display mode change
3. Refreshing dithering at display hardware change
4. Refreshing dithering at entering/exiting low power state
5. Refreshing dithering at game launch/exit

1 seems to be necessary to prevent it from dropping out after a reboot.
Only 1, 3 and 4 are enabled by default, as 2 and 5 have caveats.
You can still enable 2 and 5 through the Config.ini file, although it's not recommended. For details open the Readme file and see Config.ini settings - Dithering.
If for some reason the Enable Dithering checkbox is greyed out, try DitherForceSupport=1 in Config.ini.

Mozgus
Nice! This works quite well. Shame it cant apply it to individual monitors though. Have to unload this config when I want to use my 2nd monitor.

sonicblue83
Yes, unfortunately per-monitor calibration is not supported (see Readme file Q&A General section for explanation). However you can still control which monitors receive the calibration, if that is of use to you. For example to only apply calibration to monitor 1, set MultiMonitorDeviceContext=1 in Config.ini. To only apply to monitors 1 and 3, MultiMonitorDeviceContext=1,3 To apply to 1 and 3, but unload monitor 2, MultiMonitorDeviceContext=1,-2,3 (minus means unload). Then restart the app and use the Hijack Test tool to confirm the intended monitors are(n't) turning green. Dithering is always applied to all monitors and that behaviour cannot be changed. If you only want to use the app for dithering, and use another app for calibration, just don't select any calibration files to begin with. If you have already selected calibration files and want to stop applying them, right click tray icon -> Factory Reset.
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