stupid newbie question (power supply)

Normaly then only go in one way as the screw holes are asymetrical.
Just put it in the case.
If all four screw holes line up it goes in that way.
If they dont then it goes in the other way.

Luck........ :D
 
Not sure but a 480 for under 25 bucks?............more like 480 for one nanosecond
 
jacuzz1 said:
Not sure but a 480 for under 25 bucks?............more like 480 for one nanosecond
Click to expand...

rofl...haha


hes right though:

+3.3V, 28A
+5V, 38A
+12V, 17A
-12V, 0.8A
-5V, 0.5A
+5Vsb, 2A

get a new psu dude.
 
computerpro3 said:
rofl...haha


hes right though:

+3.3V, 28A
+5V, 38A
+12V, 17A
-12V, 0.8A
-5V, 0.5A
+5Vsb, 2A

get a new psu dude.
Click to expand...

Guys,
Just so I know. What is exactly with these numbers?
 
That's the current that can be put out on each voltage.... The V numbers stay the same from PSU to PSU (well, they vary in tolerance, one might have 3.2V instead of 3.3V, one might have 3.32V...vile's new cheap one might have like 3.04V...heh) while the A numbers get higher on better units. Though cheap units will lie and claim something that will never happen, like vile's does.
 
dandragonrage said:
That's the current that can be put out on each voltage.... The V numbers stay the same from PSU to PSU (well, they vary in tolerance, one might have 3.2V instead of 3.3V, one might have 3.32V...vile's new cheap one might have like 3.04V...heh) while the A numbers get higher on better units. Though cheap units will lie and claim something that will never happen, like vile's does.
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So my one question would be on that list,

whare do the numbers need to be to be ok?
 
It's hard to say because you can't trust the numbers that a crappy manufacturer gives you... and it depends on your specific setup how much you need.... I don't want to see less than 20A on 3.3V, 5V or 12V, personally...
 
jordan12 said:
So my one question would be on that list,

whare do the numbers need to be to be ok?
Click to expand...



IFyour going low budget get any Enermax or Antec over 50 bucks and you will do ok
 
dandragonrage said:
It's hard to say because you can't trust the numbers that a crappy manufacturer gives you... and it depends on your specific setup how much you need.... I don't want to see less than 20A on 3.3V, 5V or 12V, personally...
Click to expand...

in addition
the +3.3V and +5V rails are generally combined in the PSU
(Antec's True Power series is an exception for example)
but they are tested seperately, then again depending on how they where rated
that figure represents how much cuurent (expressed in amps) can be drawn from the rail before an unacceptable voltage sag, the trick being what is unacceptable,
a 1% variance? or more often when a fuse blows :p
(sort of the quality vs generic argument right there)

and finally most PSUs are tested at 25C, when your normal operating temperature is closer to 40C, and that can be as much as a 30% decrese in the current available
for instance the PCP&C in my rig is actually rated at 40C for 510 watts which is highly unusual, at 25C its a 600 watt

so basically you research reviews to determine quality manufacturers
and then add up your amp needs per rail (+3.3,+ 5.+12 being the important ones, the ATX spec and various components very rarely employs the negatives) and then guess :p

keeping in mind that when you add all the amps its the theoretical maximum draw for every single component, something that doesnt happen in real life, the closest you get is at startup, where the spinup of drives and other fans can be as much as 5 times the run time draw

so a nice calculator
takaman's PSU Calculator v.2004.04
now everything isnt included in that, but either you can guess by picking a comparitive component, or actually research its power requirement with the manufacturer
 
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