Stay away from the A8N32-SLI

Betatester said:
This statement made me mad, asus has made most of the best mobo's ive used. then i saw he was banned. instant sweet justice. like others have said it sounds like you have incompatible hardware somewhere, and probably ram
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He has been banned , reminded me of how i was the first forum i swent to , i will not say anything like that to harm somebody now, dont worry he will get wiser.

I have survived 950 posts and you have to be nice and helpful.
 
I paid the premium for the asus A8N32 SLI Deluxe. Spent about double what I wanted to on a mobo but it was the best decision I ever made.
 
I just got my A8N32-SLi Deluxe from newegg and it's dead. At least I think it's dead. I plugged everything in (well, RAM, CPU, and a pci video card) cleared cmos before first boot, flipped the switch on the psu and it turned on instantly by itself. No post though. So I checked the power button...it was ok, meter showed it was working the way it should. flipped the switch again and it turned on, turned it off...then unplugged the power switch from the board. It still turned itself on. Unplugged everything else cable wise from the board, and it would still turn itself on as soon as the switch was flipped on the psu.

removed one stick of ram, same thing. tried totally different ram, same thing. tried 1 stick in all 4 slots...same thing. CPU would get hot too.

is the board bad? Or could something else cause it? I even took the board out of the case and tried..same result.

I'll RMA back to Asus next week (got from Newegg on a open box deal...took a chance...and this is what I got...but hey...when I get a working board back from Asus, I'll have a A8N32 for less than $120 :p )
 
Check the power management settings in BIOS setup. The board will be configured to resume previous state when power is restored. It's a setting to manage what happens when there's a mains power loss, and it's usually configured to set your system running again.

On my A8N-SLI Deluxe the setting is on the 'Power' menu screen and is called "Restore on AC power loss", with Enabled or Disabled as the settings options. It needs to be set to Disabled.

I suspect your board will be the same.
 
That would be a feasable option...IF the board would actually POST. Besides my clearing the CMOS before I booted for the first time, it never displays anything. No beep codes either, even when I remove all the ram or cpu.
 
I forgot to plug power to atx12v and had a scare at 1st post attempt...after that the boards ran stable for 2 months. High priced but no issues....hope u get it resolved :(
 
If it doesn't POST then it's either stuffed or you've stuffed up.

Remove everything bar one RAM module, one display card and the CPU (with its HSF of course) and then connect up ONLY the cables I've mentioned here.

If it doesn't POST in that configuration (and you've got the front panel headers connected correctly) then the board must be cactus. Make sure you've reset CMOS again before trying to boot in that configuration before you assume it's not functional, though.
 
Catweazle said:
If it doesn't POST then it's either stuffed or you've stuffed up.

Remove everything bar one RAM module, one display card and the CPU (with its HSF of course) and then connect up ONLY the cables I've mentioned here.

If it doesn't POST in that configuration (and you've got the front panel headers connected correctly) then the board must be cactus. Make sure you've reset CMOS again before trying to boot in that configuration before you assume it's not functional, though.
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Maybe you should go back and read my post again. I've already tried that.

:EDIT: removed the rest..I was being an ass. :D
 
heh heh....

You wasn't being all that clear in the earlier post either. My comment was pretty clear though. It either works or it doesn't. There are no magic answers, unfortunately :D
 
It was clear to me after being up for 2 days straight :p

Is there a way to RMA through Asus online? ...somewhat quickly? Or would calling them be better? I got it through newegg...one of the open box deals.
 
So let me get this straight... You are telling people to stay away from one of the most popular well liked motherboards here? Let's face it, you did something wrong[incompatible parts], or something is defective. Because trust me, they work damn well, as proven by me and countless others.
 
I wish the mods would not allow threads like these. It's rediculous and does nothing more than represent the ignorance of the thread starter. It also opens up the bandwagon for the brand haters.

Many of us have been using A8N32 SLi boards since their launch, with no problems. Just because YOU did something wrong, or recieved a bad board, does not mean that it is bad.

Please, do a friggen search before posting this crap.
 
whoa...whoa..whoa...I'm not the thread starter, and I have 3 other Asus boards that I quite thoroughly enjoy and have never had a problem with...so don't confuse me with a one-shot brand hater ;)
 
Love my A8N32-SLI. Up until tonight I haven't had any issues with it. Well, I went to Bestbuy, bought a 74gb Raptor 10Krpm, 16mb cache harddrive (great deal at $150) - and The only way I can get it to start the Windows XP install on this thing is to enable the Silicone Graphics controller and use it... (4 hours later) so now i've got to dig up a floppy drive

I see plenty of people using Raptors with this board - is there something I'm missing? I even flashed the 1303 bios and still no such luck.
 
Unplug all your other hard drives. Have only the target for the OS plugged in. Disable everything in onboard components including USB, use a PS2 key board and mouse. Disable APM. Unplug any ODD except the one that you will use to launch the XP CD. Reboot and make sure the Raptor appears in BIOS as well as the remaining ODD. Now set Boot order to CD ROM/Removable/HDD. Reboot and the XPinstall screen should come up and the install should work.
 
_Korruption_ said:
Which model? The 520W only has 28A on the +12V, and the 450W has even less at 26A. You've got an X1900XTX, which is a very +12V-hungry card. I think you could've made a better choice in terms of power -- what you got is basically an outdated modular PSU that barely meets ATX12V v2.0 specification.
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That is the most idiotic post one can make in trying to help someone.

The power supply is fine, many, including myself are running the same or more powerful components on 500 W PSU's with only two14 Amp 12 rails.

The issue is compatibility or raid controller he is connected to. The SI has issues and memory compatibility can be a problem until the right settings are made.
 
systemlines said:
Just wanted to point out another observation, if you leave the driver disk in and try to remove the secondary floppy it keeps coming back. Removed it one more time and ejected the cd then boom it doesn't install. Its odd because I have seen it as dual 3 inch and one as 5 inch floppy. Who needs dual core when you have Dual Floppies!
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You do know when you boot a system with a bad boot volume and an nt bootable cdrom inserted, the cdrom will make a virtual A drive and the physical floppy will take the second drive letter.

Question is...have you tried loading the OS with only one drive connected at a time? You can isolate to a controller or drive problem that way.

Next is to boot with only one mem stick, then even at a lower FSB speed.

Chances are something is bad or went bad after the swap from it's last use. If the board is bad, RMA it from the manufacturer.
 
Apologize for the delay in getting back to the thread. All the previous issues I was having with this board are resolved. I added all the information and build issues to the a8n32-sli build thread. So far so good, but like it was said previously I was venting at the fact that build didn't go smoothy and basically thought at the time that the mobo was glitchy and possibly defective. Right now the board and system are running like a dream. Thanks again for who provided me with some direction on getting this thing going. In retrospect I shouldn't have been so aggressive with the post but like I said I was pretty much venting. The a8n32-sli build thread did open my eyes to what might be happening with it, and pretty much had it resolved the same day. My system specs are all included in the thread as well and highly recommended for a place to start for people thinking about purchasing this board. Thanks again everyone for providing assistance, recommendations and time.
 
Merc said:
Unplug all your other hard drives. Have only the target for the OS plugged in. Disable everything in onboard components including USB, use a PS2 key board and mouse. Disable APM. Unplug any ODD except the one that you will use to launch the XP CD. Reboot and make sure the Raptor appears in BIOS as well as the remaining ODD. Now set Boot order to CD ROM/Removable/HDD. Reboot and the XPinstall screen should come up and the install should work.
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Hmm seems like a lot of work for trying to use a "faster" hdd... I may give this a try a little later, just to see if it would have worked (Even though i've already done most of what you suggest, except disabling USB and using a PS2 kb/mouse). After my several hours of struggling and confusion - I got the OS loaded by using the Silicone Image SATA connection. It runs great. The computer bluescreened one time last night - but I can't help but think it was heat releated as the Raptor was extremely hot and there wasn't much airflow at the bottom of my P180 case since the side panel was off. So my next question is: Is my drive bad? or is it so new either it needs a firmware adjustment and/or the motherboard needs a bios revision?
Let me sum up: Raptor set as boot disk or alone won't start the XP install - get a blank screen after "inspecting your computer hardware..." Raptor WILL allow an OS to be installed if you use it on the Silcone Image connection. After installed on the SiliconeImage controller, it would not boot if moved over to the Nforce4 SATA connection...

**EDIT** - well, after reading and reading I read about a guy who had my same symptoms and ended up simply having to do an old school fdisk to the drive. Well, I thought I'd give it a try. It worked. I did an fdisk and wiped out the disk, made a new partition. Then I did an fdisk /mbr, and what do you know I could boot off the Nvidia Nforce4 ports and load windows
 
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