Silverstone SST-SX600-G 600w Gold SFX

The 8 pin should actually be a 6+2 connector, where you can separate 2 of the pins off to leave a 6 pin connector
If I just remove the 2 pins, it would end up removing 2 pins from the end of the 6 pin connector. Wouldn't that essentially make my cable 6+4 now?
 
If I just remove the 2 pins, it would end up removing 2 pins from the end of the 6 pin connector. Wouldn't that essentially make my cable 6+4 now?

There are 8 wires from the PSU that go the first 6+2 connector, the 6 pin connector pins are doubled up and the second set of wires goes to the second 6+2 connector. The +2 pins on the second connector are just strung off two of the 6 wires. Hope that all makes sense.

The extra 2 pins doesn't make much difference for power delivery most of the time. You really only need to be worried about it for monster cards like the 295X2.

The 6-pin is rated for 75W and the 8-pin is rated for 150W but the 6-pin is actually physically capable of doing 150W. What happened was at the time they came up with the spec is was doubtful most PSUs available could stably do 150W on the PCIe connector so they artificially limited it and made a 8-pin spec to differentiate the two.

Silverstone says the SX600-G is good for the Radeon 7990 and I've personally tested it with dual GTX 980s and it handles it just fine.
 
Thanks for the clarification. I had the GTX780 and upgraded to a GTX980. The 980 only needs 6+6 so that's the only reason why I want to get rid of the 2 pins. I'm just being a perfectionist and can't stand the extra 2 pins hanging off on the side :p
 
If you really wanted to you could just snip them off. Probably want to extract the pin so you can cut the wire close to the terminal so the bare wire is inside the plastic housing once you put the pin back in.
 
If you really wanted to you could just snip them off. Probably want to extract the pin so you can cut the wire close to the terminal so the bare wire is inside the plastic housing once you put the pin back in.

Don't think it's necessary to cut them. Should be able to just peel the +2 wires completely away from the flex cable (they're on the outside), then remove the 2 pins from from the blue plastic, and remove the 2 pins from the last 6+2 housing..

http://www.jonnyguru.com/modules/NDReviews/images/SilverstoneSX600G/DSC_2073.jpg

http://www.silverstonetek.com/images/products/sx600-g/sx600-g-03.jpg
 
Ordered the SX600-G from NewEgg Canada and just got it.

Strangely enough, they added a bunch of Axe and Gain. Looks like they assume we're a bunch of teenager doing LANparties with SFF systems that don't take daily showers.

1689556_10152666934050210_6608079309865705744_n.jpg
 
Wow the most I got with a PC order was a miniature bag of gummy bears (6 bears total).

You can atleast stay fresh for a few weeks :D
 
Ordered the SX600-G from NewEgg Canada and just got it.

Strangely enough, they added a bunch of Axe and Gain. Looks like they assume we're a bunch of teenager doing LANparties with SFF systems that don't take daily showers.

1689556_10152666934050210_6608079309865705744_n.jpg

HAHA
From basically all axe commercials ever, i think this bundle assumes that everyone who buys this is in dire need of a girlfriend:D
 
Don't think it's necessary to cut them. Should be able to just peel the +2 wires completely away from the flex cable (they're on the outside), then remove the 2 pins from from the blue plastic, and remove the 2 pins from the last 6+2 housing..

That's a really good idea for the first connector but the second one would have to be cut off.

The +2 wires on the second connector are double-crimped to two of the wires on the 6-pin connector.
 
High pitched cheeping coming from PSU after boot. Weird but goes away after a few seconds. Wouldn't think the caps are too high end because of that.
 
That's a really good idea for the first connector but the second one would have to be cut off.

The +2 wires on the second connector are double-crimped to two of the wires on the 6-pin connector.

Ahh, didn't notice that.. makes sense now, looking at it again :eek:
 
High pitched cheeping coming from PSU after boot. Weird but goes away after a few seconds. Wouldn't think the caps are too high end because of that.

It's coils that make noise, caps are silent.

Quality of caps is mainly concern for lifespan when warm.
 
I'd like to shorten all of the cables for my M1 build, or even just make custom ones. Does anyone know if any of the moddiy modular connector kits are compatible with the SX600-G? They're only like $25 and I could keep the original cables uncut for later if so.
 
All the modular Silverstone's use the same pinout (except one of the Nightjars, don't remember which one) so if it's for any of the other Silverstone units it should be compatible.
 
I must be lucky. I've had my sx600-g running for about two weeks now and so far, so good. I have it running in a SG05 case, fan down. I have yet to hear the clicking or chirping. So far, it's about 1/3 as loud as the 450 bronze V2 it replaced. The fan starts within a couple minutes no matter what I do and never stops. It's barely noticeable when it is running, but the frequency is more irritating than the Scythe front fan and the GPU fans. Both of those are lower frequency and barely noticeable.

I like this thread...lot smart people

SG05, i3770k @ 4.2GHZ, SST-AR06 CPU cooler w/FQ91 fan, Sapphire Vapor x R9-270x GPU, 120mm Scythe Slipstream case fan, sx600-G. Mavericks 10.9.5, Windows7.
 
Just wanted to provide an update to my "120mm fan blowing air into PSU" idea. I received my M1 case and have the components installed. Ambient temp is 72-73F. The PSU is pointed to the interior of the case, and I have the 120mm fan (Noiseblocker M12-2) on the opposite side. Once installed, the fan by itself was not sufficient to prevent the PSU fan from spinning up, even at idle. I installed a 120 -> 80 mm adaptor and fan duct from the fan to the outside of the PSU. Now, at idle, the 120 mm fan provides sufficient airflow to prevent the PSU fan from starting. Under load (Prime95), the PSU fan eventually starts. However, it will stop again once the machine is at idle.

This is still running integrated graphics, though I do have a GTX 970 arriving Tuesday. Given the small amount of power these cards draw at idle, I suspect my results will mirror what I posted above. Will report back once I've done more testing.

EDIT: 120 mm fan is running at 12V.
 
JUnder load (Prime95), the PSU fan eventually starts. However, it will stop again once the machine is at idle.
Noteworthy, since no one seems to have been able to get it to stop once it was turning.
 
Noteworthy, since no one seems to have been able to get it to stop once it was turning.

Yep. I was hoping that it would prevent it from starting even under load, but that's not the case. Maybe a more powerful fan would do the job, but I'm aiming for silence. It's nice that it doesn't start up under general tasks (web browsing etc) where the load is minimal. Because of that, I'll leave it as is until a better fan is found. The other nice thing is that I have the duct connected to the PSU via only two of the fan screws. The other two do not need to be touched. Means I don't need to open the case = don't void my warranty.
 
Just wanted to provide an update to my "120mm fan blowing air into PSU" idea. I received my M1 case and have the components installed. Ambient temp is 72-73F. The PSU is pointed to the interior of the case, and I have the 120mm fan (Noiseblocker M12-2) on the opposite side. Once installed, the fan by itself was not sufficient to prevent the PSU fan from spinning up, even at idle. I installed a 120 -> 80 mm adaptor and fan duct from the fan to the outside of the PSU. Now, at idle, the 120 mm fan provides sufficient airflow to prevent the PSU fan from starting. Under load (Prime95), the PSU fan eventually starts. However, it will stop again once the machine is at idle.

This is still running integrated graphics, though I do have a GTX 970 arriving Tuesday. Given the small amount of power these cards draw at idle, I suspect my results will mirror what I posted above. Will report back once I've done more testing.

EDIT: 120 mm fan is running at 12V.

Have a link to the exact 120 to 80 duct you're using?
 
Anyone know when this will be available again in the EU? All sites are listing it as out of stock. Last component I need to move my build into the NCASE. :(
 
Anyone know when this will be available again in the EU? All sites are listing it as out of stock. Last component I need to move my build into the NCASE. :(

It was never really in stock. Apparently only a small first shipment arrived two weeks ago, not even enough to cover all pre-orders. Two more weeks before the next crate arrives.
 
It was never really in stock. Apparently only a small first shipment arrived two weeks ago, not even enough to cover all pre-orders. Two more weeks before the next crate arrives.

Thanks, two more weeks it is then... :(
 
The PSU is pointed to the interior of the case, and I have the 120mm fan (Noiseblocker M12-2) on the opposite side.

EDIT: 120 mm fan is running at 12V.

So your M12-2 is running at max RPM all the time, but is still quieter (or less annoying) than the PSU fan's chatter at idle? And before you did this, how noticeable was the chatter with the intake facing inward?

And thanks for the update!
 
So your M12-2 is running at max RPM all the time, but is still quieter (or less annoying) than the PSU fan's chatter at idle? And before you did this, how noticeable was the chatter with the intake facing inward?

Yes, the sound signature of the M12-2 is definitely less annoying than the chattering of the PSU fan. I can hear the M12-2, but it's just a gentle "whoosh" of air. The PSU fan, to me, was louder and had a more annoying signature. Before I did this, the chatter was definitely noticeable, to the point where I couldn't wait until the duct arrived!! YMMV of course, but this is definitely better for me.
 
I bought two of these psu's couple weeks ago for my very first actual itx builds before i read about the psu in detail.

Is the hissing noise normal? I mean, even when the computer is turned off, both psu's make this tinnitus/electric -like hissing noise which i really do not care for. The fans havent bothered me, but the hissing is really about to make me go nuts.
 
Disabling ERP is maybe something that should go in the OP of this thread.
 
No luck finding anything "ERP" in Asrock Z77E-ITX nor Z97E-ITX uefi/bios though :/
 
No luck finding anything "ERP" in Asrock Z77E-ITX nor Z97E-ITX uefi/bios though :/

Look for the "deep sleep" power states: C3-C7 I think? Try first turning them all off to see if it helps the problem. Then turn them on one-by-one to find the issue.
 
Well, would have been too easy if there was just big button "ERP" and on/off :)

Thanks, ill try to look into it later in the evening.

---

On almost related to topic:

ive been cursed with huge fingers and disconnecting cables from mobo and and psu - particularly those power cables, is always huge trouble for me. Does anyone know if there is some suitable tool i could use with or should i just attack them with needle nose pliers(?):
K%C3%A4rkipihdit+Rawlink+200mm-3674.jpg
 
ive been cursed with huge fingers and disconnecting cables from mobo and and psu - particularly those power cables, is always huge trouble for me. Does anyone know if there is some suitable tool i could use with or should i just attack them with needle nose pliers..

Maybe try the plastic "chip extractor" tool that's found in most computer tool kits..

13H92zO.jpg


..not sure if it would work any better than needle nose, but it should cause significantly less damage to the mobo, should you happen to drop it. Dunno.. just a thought :)
 
Got to get me one of those "computer tool kits" i suppose..

/insert computer headbang gif here :D
 
ive been cursed with huge fingers and disconnecting cables from mobo and and psu - particularly those power cables, is always huge trouble for me.
Most of us have that issue, especially with SFF systems.

I personally do it like this: with one finger pressing down on the clip, I rock the connector left and right until one of the sides moves out of the socket a little and then continue on doing the same until the other end pops out a little too. It then will be MUCH easier to remove them.

Normally you can get at the clip with one finger coming from the top, but don't be scared in removing components to remove cables, it's something you should expect when everything is cramped.
 
On my asus p8z77i deluxe (bios v1201), ErP Ready = Disabled by default. When the PC is off, the PSU makes a continuous high pitched sound plus a ticking buzz. After changing ErP Ready to Enabled, now it only makes a light buzz sound that is much more tolerable.
 
After overclocking on the Impact VII, the coil whine is gone. Either a setting for overclock disabled a power feature that was causing the whine, or under a certain load, the whine disappears or the unit just fixed itself.
 
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