It's not black, but Farnell have a selection of bare ribbon cable in various wire gagues and number of conductors.
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Silverstone SST-SX600-G 600w Gold SFX
- Thread starter m2h
- Start date
Does anyone know if there is somewhere sata power cable that is shorter than the one that comes boxed with SST-SX600-G?
Because of the way ive set my ssd's (3) in my Ncase, i am forced to use Y-cable spliter - which leave me with a whole lot of excess sata power cable. Unfortunately just going snickety-snickt with scissors wont solve this so i am looking for better solution. If there is one ofcourse
luckily i can cram all the cables inside the case, but thats just suboptimal really.
thanks.
Because of the way ive set my ssd's (3) in my Ncase, i am forced to use Y-cable spliter - which leave me with a whole lot of excess sata power cable. Unfortunately just going snickety-snickt with scissors wont solve this so i am looking for better solution. If there is one ofcourse
luckily i can cram all the cables inside the case, but thats just suboptimal really.
thanks.
Aibohphobia
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Google the numbers printed on the stock cables, it seems to be a standard part available in different numbers of wires. The main thing that makes them so flexible is the insulation is silicone.
I would never have thought of that. Will deffinately check this out.
Thanks for the tip. Though they are either PVC or ? insulated. From what Aibohphobia sais, silicone is what i am after, and if I can't find it i might as well go for the black ones they have on FrozenCPU. Still. A rainbow ribbon would really do the M1 justice
^^ Short of hacking apart and piecing together wires from a PP05-E kit to form a longer EPS cable, I'd say hunt around locally for black wire that meets both WiSK's recommended specs and that closely matches the Silverstone wire (with your rigidity and soft-touch preference
Then either get some extra-small black zip ties to bundle them in a flat, ribbon style (or maybe there's another way to fuse them.. clear tape on one side, or hot glue maybe?).
If EdZ' tip doesn't pan out i think I'll consider cannibalizing some Corsair Wires and be done with it if i can find the lengths i need. Or FrozenCPU cables. Stiffer Ribbon cables will be a better fit anyway than single ones.
Personally, I'd say f'ck it and do a good job routing an EPS extension so it's mostly hidden. Or if your OCD is really that bad.. get a smaller case or different motherboard, where the stock EPS cable will reach
Hehe, I'd be the first person in the world to base my case and MB choice off a EPS cable
- Thanks guys. I'm closer to a plan as well feeling bit like this is totally unnecessary
I obviously need a hobby, as in other hobby It is so easy to get hung up on these tiny details.Hello thread, and hello forum. I received my SX600-G yesterday, and it took about 10 minutes after my first boot that I heard the dreaded, constant whine coming from the PSU. Booted it up today, and had the same thing happen after about 5-10 minutes. Will mostly run it for a few days, and if it stays this way, I'm gonna send it back in and cross my fingers for the SG500-LG
Phuncz
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Hello thread, and hello forum. I received my SX600-G yesterday, and it took about 10 minutes after my first boot that I heard the dreaded, constant whine coming from the PSU. Booted it up today, and had the same thing happen after about 5-10 minutes. Will mostly run it for a few days, and if it stays this way, I'm gonna send it back in and cross my fingers for the SG500-LG
Hi. Welcome to the forum
Several people here has reported improvements in coil wine by putting high load on the system over time.Just got mine om Monday and had no issues before i overvolted my GPU. The coil wine was unbearable, but after an hour it got much better. This is 1 hour of very high load on the system. I am expecting it to improve further, and I would suggest you try something similar. Not overclocking necessarily, but put your system under high load for some time to "break it in" if you will as Phuncz suggests one page back in this thread.
Coil wine is something that can occur on several different types of electronic components. We can't automatically expect that the SG500-LG will be better. Though Silverstone has stated that they are working hard to make it quieter, though i think that's more down to fan and fan profile... if i remember correctly. Didn't go back in the thread to check so don't quote me on that.
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AFD
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Newegg.ca has them for $149 right now..
http://www.newegg.ca/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16817256109&cm_re=sx600-g-_-17-256-109-_-Product
AFD
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My eyesight is kinda shit, but this is what I pulled from my PP05-E ATX cable..
E344713 (SYMBOL) AWM STYLE 1007 80°C 300V 18AWG VW-1 CHANG XIN (SYMBOL) AWM I A 80°C 300V FTI LM
Appears to be made by Dongguan Changxin Cable Technology Co..
http://www.olilio.com/file/detail/AVLV8.E344713.html
Contact info can be found here..
http://www.changxin168.cn/htmlen/contactus/
Aibohphobia
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On my 8-pin and PCIe wires it says E343829 which pulls up a different company. So I guess it is available from more than one company but is not something just anyone can necessarily go out and buy, my bad.
I had searched the number of the SATA wire which is E128076 and saw a bunch of eBay results so I thought it was a common item but looking at the other numbers it seem this is not the case.
I had searched the number of the SATA wire which is E128076 and saw a bunch of eBay results so I thought it was a common item but looking at the other numbers it seem this is not the case.
Phuncz
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It's not hard to find silicone wire, it's hard to find it in the various parallel configurations like Silverstone uses. Many modders find silicone wire to be too soft for some uses like sleeving (for crimps), just an FYI.
ghostwich
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It's been a little quiet in this thread... so I'll start off with a bit of an anecdotal review:
For its particular application, there simply is no competition to the Silverstone SFX line - and if you have a power-hungry system, it's hard not to go with the SX-600G. It certainly has been a long wait (as this thread's first few posts indicate!) and I would hope the supply/distribution stabilizes a bit so more people can get their hands on the unit for their systems.
That said, the established reviewers have taken their units apart and shown us a few tidbits of the insides, including lower quality capacitors - not at all expected, given the interior of the 450W Gold rated unit. I'm no professional, so I can't speak to what it means in the long run (and if it affects the PSU's lifespan) - but overall, I can only speak to how it feels after installing and using it. And aside from the unit starting and providing power, what end users will have to deal is what's already been brought up a lot in this thread: noise.
One of the advertised features of this PSU was the "semi-fanless" mode. I'm sad to report that this is simply not the case in real-world usage. Perhaps it's where the temperature sensors are located within the unit, or if the fan curve was designed/tested when the PSU wasn't installed in an actual computer case. Installed inside a case, booting up an OS and performing light tasks, this PSU's fan is never not spinning.
This wouldn't be an issue if the fan was particularly quiet - and I realize that this is highly subjective* - but it's simply not quiet enough. In low RPMs, the fan clicks ever so gently, yielding this odd soft rattling sound; as the power draw increases (and we can assume that the heat increases, causing the PSU to provide more voltage to the fan, making it spin faster) the rattling sound gives way to a harsh, choppy whirr. I think I'm not alone in sharing this disappointment with the noise**. I have been lucky to not experience/notice coil whine.
The fact that a fan replacement modification was so popular with the 450W Gold SFX power supply should have been an indicator to Silverstone that their idea of quiet did not match those of the customer base.
Things may get better - I look at the "V1.0" sticker on the outer case and think to myself, "well, the 450W ended up with a v2 revision." The criticized capacitors may be replaced with higher quality ones, and we may yet see a better fan.
For the time being, the claim of the highest density PSU is safely Silverstone's. No other manufacturer seems interested in the SFX market, and in some ways, the lack of competition gives us really no choice. Realistically, I think the noise is bearable - at full load, a CPU or GPU fan will (probably) drown out the power supply's fan. I'll admit I that I had higher hopes/expectations, and if noise is the only complaint about the unit then I can't really be that disappointed.
- - -
* Full disclosure - this PSU is installed in an Ncase M1 V2, sitting on my desk surface, approximately 3 feet (1m) away from where I sit, facing away from me. The Ncase M1 side and top panels are perforated aluminum, which do little to block sound in lieu of providing airflow. Cases like Silverstone's own Raven line, or other Mini ITX "HTPC" cases may block more of the sound, especially if the case is in a home theater or AV cabinet, or even under a desk/table.
** This is my second Silverstone PSU, and in both situations, the PSU fan proved to be the loudest fan at both idle and immediately post-load. In (an extremely limited) comparison, a Seasonic PSU was damn near silent replacement for the first Silverstone PSU.
For its particular application, there simply is no competition to the Silverstone SFX line - and if you have a power-hungry system, it's hard not to go with the SX-600G. It certainly has been a long wait (as this thread's first few posts indicate!) and I would hope the supply/distribution stabilizes a bit so more people can get their hands on the unit for their systems.
That said, the established reviewers have taken their units apart and shown us a few tidbits of the insides, including lower quality capacitors - not at all expected, given the interior of the 450W Gold rated unit. I'm no professional, so I can't speak to what it means in the long run (and if it affects the PSU's lifespan) - but overall, I can only speak to how it feels after installing and using it. And aside from the unit starting and providing power, what end users will have to deal is what's already been brought up a lot in this thread: noise.
One of the advertised features of this PSU was the "semi-fanless" mode. I'm sad to report that this is simply not the case in real-world usage. Perhaps it's where the temperature sensors are located within the unit, or if the fan curve was designed/tested when the PSU wasn't installed in an actual computer case. Installed inside a case, booting up an OS and performing light tasks, this PSU's fan is never not spinning.
This wouldn't be an issue if the fan was particularly quiet - and I realize that this is highly subjective* - but it's simply not quiet enough. In low RPMs, the fan clicks ever so gently, yielding this odd soft rattling sound; as the power draw increases (and we can assume that the heat increases, causing the PSU to provide more voltage to the fan, making it spin faster) the rattling sound gives way to a harsh, choppy whirr. I think I'm not alone in sharing this disappointment with the noise**. I have been lucky to not experience/notice coil whine.
The fact that a fan replacement modification was so popular with the 450W Gold SFX power supply should have been an indicator to Silverstone that their idea of quiet did not match those of the customer base.
Things may get better - I look at the "V1.0" sticker on the outer case and think to myself, "well, the 450W ended up with a v2 revision." The criticized capacitors may be replaced with higher quality ones, and we may yet see a better fan.
For the time being, the claim of the highest density PSU is safely Silverstone's. No other manufacturer seems interested in the SFX market, and in some ways, the lack of competition gives us really no choice. Realistically, I think the noise is bearable - at full load, a CPU or GPU fan will (probably) drown out the power supply's fan. I'll admit I that I had higher hopes/expectations, and if noise is the only complaint about the unit then I can't really be that disappointed.
- - -
* Full disclosure - this PSU is installed in an Ncase M1 V2, sitting on my desk surface, approximately 3 feet (1m) away from where I sit, facing away from me. The Ncase M1 side and top panels are perforated aluminum, which do little to block sound in lieu of providing airflow. Cases like Silverstone's own Raven line, or other Mini ITX "HTPC" cases may block more of the sound, especially if the case is in a home theater or AV cabinet, or even under a desk/table.
** This is my second Silverstone PSU, and in both situations, the PSU fan proved to be the loudest fan at both idle and immediately post-load. In (an extremely limited) comparison, a Seasonic PSU was damn near silent replacement for the first Silverstone PSU.
ghostwich
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Hm. Just found this on Youtube while doing some research...
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=BV1gE1qrhZY
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=BV1gE1qrhZY
ghostwich
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I understand that the same fan modification for the ST45SF-G does't apply for the SX600-G - the measurements by Alibohphobia and the graph on the Silverstone page indicate that the PSU delivers a really low voltage signal to the fan:
At the PSU's "100%" it seems like it's delivering just around 5V. The preferred fan replacement, the Noiseblocker PC-P (http://www.blacknoise.com/site/en/p...blacksilent-pro-series/80x80x15mm.php?lang=EN), has a starting voltage at around 6V - so if you were to get the 3-pin to 2-pin adaptor cable, the PSU would simply not provide enough voltage to start the fan at all.
(I don't think anyone has tried this.)
As I wrote before, I'm not sure where the PSU's temperature sensor is - nor do I understand or trust the graph that Silverstone provides on their webpage, given the performance of the fan in day-to-day operation. And as far as the ADDA fan* itself goes, the ticking/rattle at low voltage was getting to be irritating, as well as the harsh noise** it makes at higher RPMs - while others here may be looking for a 1:1 drop-in replacement, I decided that the PC-P might work... using one of the motherboard's PWM fan headers...
So I opened the PSU up, removed the ADDA fan, and replaced it with the PC-P (incidentally, I used the weird soft gasket included with the Noiseblocker fan). Using wire cutters, I cut out part of the hexagonal grate on the side of the PSU that serves as the exhaust, and fed the new fan's header out through the hole. This is then connected via the long extension cable to the motherboard (ASUS Z87I-Deluxe).
Since I don't want the PSU to overheat, I'm using a fairly standard fan curve with a very long spin-down time. Granted this is all using Asus' Fan Xpert software which, as far as I can tell, uses exactly one temperature sensor - which may ultimately be tied to the CPU temperature only. I may choose later to use SpeedFan or some other software to try and achieve a different fan curve.
I'm well aware that by doing this, I've replaced the stock PSU fan with a higher quality*** fan, but have added the risk of decoupling the airflow to the PSU from its internal temperature. It's a bit of a guessing game, however, the fan is much quieter, and as long as I've set up the curve correctly, it will always provide airflow to the PSU internals.
(Okay I'm done spamming this thread!)
* Finding information on the stock fan is... challenging. I've found a few links and wanted to provide them, in case someone goes down the rabbit hole looking...
http://www.addausa.com/specifications/70-80.pdf
http://www.strikefan.com/DCFan80mm.html
http://www.endrich.com/en/149413/ad0812ub-d90(t)
http://www.endrich.com/cms/download.php?file=54612/122776.pdf&name=AD8015-9(T)
I can't make out what the ADDA naming convention is - as far as I can tell...
** Not that I have anything against OEM fans... but the "stock" fans like ADDA have never worked out well for me. I had a Lian Li case where one of the fan blades ultimately snapped off and flew around inside the case - it was quite a racket. There's a reason a lot of people choose to go with third-party fans, be it Corsair, Noctua, Scythe, or any of the others. The sound difference at higher RPMs is noticeable and the OEM fans just cannot compete.
*** Is this subjective?
Looks like your typical industrial type fan but Silverstone is running it at fairly low voltage to keep the RPMs down.
http://www.silverstonetek.com/product.php?pid=524&area=en said:
At the PSU's "100%" it seems like it's delivering just around 5V. The preferred fan replacement, the Noiseblocker PC-P (http://www.blacknoise.com/site/en/p...blacksilent-pro-series/80x80x15mm.php?lang=EN), has a starting voltage at around 6V - so if you were to get the 3-pin to 2-pin adaptor cable, the PSU would simply not provide enough voltage to start the fan at all.
(I don't think anyone has tried this.)
As I wrote before, I'm not sure where the PSU's temperature sensor is - nor do I understand or trust the graph that Silverstone provides on their webpage, given the performance of the fan in day-to-day operation. And as far as the ADDA fan* itself goes, the ticking/rattle at low voltage was getting to be irritating, as well as the harsh noise** it makes at higher RPMs - while others here may be looking for a 1:1 drop-in replacement, I decided that the PC-P might work... using one of the motherboard's PWM fan headers...
So I opened the PSU up, removed the ADDA fan, and replaced it with the PC-P (incidentally, I used the weird soft gasket included with the Noiseblocker fan). Using wire cutters, I cut out part of the hexagonal grate on the side of the PSU that serves as the exhaust, and fed the new fan's header out through the hole. This is then connected via the long extension cable to the motherboard (ASUS Z87I-Deluxe).
Since I don't want the PSU to overheat, I'm using a fairly standard fan curve with a very long spin-down time. Granted this is all using Asus' Fan Xpert software which, as far as I can tell, uses exactly one temperature sensor - which may ultimately be tied to the CPU temperature only. I may choose later to use SpeedFan or some other software to try and achieve a different fan curve.
I'm well aware that by doing this, I've replaced the stock PSU fan with a higher quality*** fan, but have added the risk of decoupling the airflow to the PSU from its internal temperature. It's a bit of a guessing game, however, the fan is much quieter, and as long as I've set up the curve correctly, it will always provide airflow to the PSU internals.
(Okay I'm done spamming this thread!)
* Finding information on the stock fan is... challenging. I've found a few links and wanted to provide them, in case someone goes down the rabbit hole looking...
http://www.addausa.com/specifications/70-80.pdf
http://www.strikefan.com/DCFan80mm.html
http://www.endrich.com/en/149413/ad0812ub-d90(t)
http://www.endrich.com/cms/download.php?file=54612/122776.pdf&name=AD8015-9(T)
I can't make out what the ADDA naming convention is - as far as I can tell...
Code:
AD0812UB-D91
.|.|.|||..|+-- there was a D90 fan, and maybe this digit indicates a revision
.|.|.|||..+--- D9 seems to indicate the type of fan, not sure what D means, but it is 9 blades
.|.|.||+------ B stands for ball bearing
.|.|.|+------- U stands for "ultra" which is ADDA's highest speed fans, 4500rpm
.|.|.+-------- 12 is for the voltage
.| +---------- 08 seems to indicate 8cm, although I have seen 75 stand for 75mm
.+------------ AD for ADDA, maybe they make fans other companies rebrand** Not that I have anything against OEM fans... but the "stock" fans like ADDA have never worked out well for me. I had a Lian Li case where one of the fan blades ultimately snapped off and flew around inside the case - it was quite a racket. There's a reason a lot of people choose to go with third-party fans, be it Corsair, Noctua, Scythe, or any of the others. The sound difference at higher RPMs is noticeable and the OEM fans just cannot compete.
*** Is this subjective?
Hi Ghostwich. It's tricky using the cpu temps to control the psu fan because of two things. It's only vaguely proportional to cpu draw. And cpu draw obviously doesn't correspond to total system load.
I would be worried, due to the already lower quality of caps used in the SX600-G, that you risk dramatically reducing the lifespan of the unit for the sake of silent operation. If you aren't bothered about having to buy a new one sooner, then I guess it doesn't matter
I would be worried, due to the already lower quality of caps used in the SX600-G, that you risk dramatically reducing the lifespan of the unit for the sake of silent operation. If you aren't bothered about having to buy a new one sooner, then I guess it doesn't matter
I've been looking for the simplest possible voltage doubler, which would move the fan operating range from 3V-5V to 6V-10V, allowing a much (or as of yet: infinitely) wider selection of better-sounding fan replacements. Unfortunately I haven't found any, and I'm no electronics engineer so I won't attempt designing my own.
ghostwich: you can find the location of the psu's internal temperature sensor looking at review photos, but I don't remember if it was SPCR's or Jonny Guru's review. It's on a heatsink.
ghostwich: you can find the location of the psu's internal temperature sensor looking at review photos, but I don't remember if it was SPCR's or Jonny Guru's review. It's on a heatsink.
ghostwich
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Hi Ghostwich. It's tricky using the cpu temps to control the psu fan because of two things. It's only vaguely proportional to cpu draw. And cpu draw obviously doesn't correspond to total system load.
I would be worried, due to the already lower quality of caps used in the SX600-G, that you risk dramatically reducing the lifespan of the unit for the sake of silent operation. If you aren't bothered about having to buy a new one sooner, then I guess it doesn't matter
Hi WiSK - I'm a big fan of yours both here and on OCN.
I'm not exactly worried but I am exercising caution - as I said above, I've decoupled the fan (and airflow) from the actual temperature reading in the PSU. There's definitely a risk and no way am I planning on frying this unit trying to keep it quiet. I have found that the Silverstone-advertised semi-fanless operation is never achieved in real-world conditions, and if I'm going to have a fan running all the time, it might as well be a fan that is quieter at the same RPM/airflow (I'm hesitant to say CFM) range - or running at a higher RPM but still with a more pleasing sound. At full tilt, the Noiseblocker fan is plenty loud and you can certainly feel the airflow - but as I said before - if your PSU fan needs that much cooling, it's far more likely that the power draw is heating up the CPU and GPU such that those fans would contribute to the overall noise more than the PC-P.
I'll have to do some math to match up the stock ADDA fan's estimated airflow to where I want the PC-P's fan curve to be.
Overall though, I wanted to report that this can be a viable solution, given the inherent risks of opening up the PSU and the fan speed being controlled by the motherboard and/or software.
I've been looking for the simplest possible voltage doubler, which would move the fan operating range from 3V-5V to 6V-10V, allowing a much (or as of yet: infinitely) wider selection of better-sounding fan replacements. Unfortunately I haven't found any, and I'm no electronics engineer so I won't attempt designing my own.
ghostwich: you can find the location of the psu's internal temperature sensor looking at review photos, but I don't remember if it was SPCR's or Jonny Guru's review. It's on a heatsink.
Ah yes you're right, thanks - a quick search: http://www.jonnyguru.com/modules.php?name=NDReviews&op=Story5&reid=395
http://www.jonnyguru.com/modules.php?name=NDReviews&op=Story5&reid=395 said:
Gemcon makes our polymer capacitors in this unit. See those black heatshrinked wires in the middle of the shot? Those are for the fan control thermistor, which is attached to the above board heatsink for the 12V parts.
That area of the PSU gets... almost no airflow. I'm really surprised that the sensors are there - wedged between two smaller PCBs and right above a bank of capacitors. Using an IR thermometer, right now I'm at approximately 43 degrees C right around those coils. Under load, that area has gotten to be around 55 degrees C. I'll keep prodding and checking temps.
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Yes, I've done this on a ST45SF-G, and connected the radiator fan to the PSU's fan header. I made sure I took a fan with similar airflow-volts profile as the stock fan. In my case a NB B12-2, but I think you might want to try a stronger fan with the SX600-G since it provides low volts, e.g. the B12-4
ghostwich
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I'd be a little concerned about pushing warm and slow air into the PSU; after all, the air is trying to remove the heat from the components inside.
To WiSK's point: if you hook up the radiator's push fan up to the PSU's fan header, it will react to the PSU's thermal sensor, and regardless of how efficient this radiator exhaust air is, the fan will be working harder to provide the PSU with air. However I think it's to be considered that now the radiator fan is decoupled from the heat source feeding the radiator - if the CPU/GPU being cooled by the loop is hotter than the PSU's temperature sensor, then this fan wouldn't provide the most efficient cooling solution.
In a real world application, though, like the mod I did, the PSU temps and CPU/GPU temps are loosely correlated enough for it to be okay.
I'd still be worried about using radiator exhaust for anything, it is still heated air and won't be as effective as fresh air.
Best practice: get a cheap IR non-contact thermometer and check all temperatures at various levels of load
Bobalias_LeShay
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Better practice: Get a FLIR camera and check both temperatures and hot spotsBest practice: get a cheap IR non-contact thermometer and check all temperatures at various levels of load
You can get good ones for ~$1,000 now, and crappy ones for $500.
ghostwich
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Best practice: get a cheap IR non-contact thermometer and check all temperatures at various levels of load
Yep! I've been doing that for the past week or so, aiming at some of the capacitors and towards the part of the PSU where the thermal sensor would be. So far so good, like I said, I've seen around a 55 degree max, and this is after sustained load. My fan curve is fairly aggressive with a fairly long spin-down time, so I'm very confident in the airflow.
Better practice: Get a FLIR camera and check both temperatures and hot spots
You can get good ones for ~$1,000 now, and crappy ones for $500.
... Yeah... does anyone have one I can borrow for a bit?
And 'good enough for consumer use' ones for $200 (+ the cost of your phone).Better practice: Get a FLIR camera and check both temperatures and hot spots
You can get good ones for ~$1,000 now, and crappy ones for $500.
Okay, I've just completed my build and when my NCase is turned off (but still plugged into the socket) I have a very loud, high pitched buzzing sound that I can hear from a few meters away. My PC is in my bedroom so it's impossible to sleep without unplugging the socket from the wall; really annoying.
I'm using an Asus Z97i-Plus with an i5, GTX 780, 16GB RAM, and of course the SX600G. I'm in the UK so I think our plugs are 230 or 240V.
Strangely I can't hear it when the PC is on. But as soon as it powers down the PSU starts whining. I've tested the system and temperatures seem to be good and I'm going to try and put the PSU under load over the weekend with folding@home, but I'm not sure whether it's the same coil whine others have mentioned since it's not happening (much) when it's on. I'm wondering whether it's to do with the standby power and hoping it's some motherboard setting or something. Any ideas?
I'm using an Asus Z97i-Plus with an i5, GTX 780, 16GB RAM, and of course the SX600G. I'm in the UK so I think our plugs are 230 or 240V.
Strangely I can't hear it when the PC is on. But as soon as it powers down the PSU starts whining. I've tested the system and temperatures seem to be good and I'm going to try and put the PSU under load over the weekend with folding@home, but I'm not sure whether it's the same coil whine others have mentioned since it's not happening (much) when it's on. I'm wondering whether it's to do with the standby power and hoping it's some motherboard setting or something. Any ideas?
ghostwich
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Did you install the Asus AI Suite software? There are a few things like Ai Charger+ and USB Charger+ that enable things like extra voltage through the USB ports as well as power through the USB line when the system is off. That could be allowing a slight power through the PSU.
I recall hearing about this too - I forget it you want on or off, ErP/EuP or something is related to Wake-on-Lan. Again, it's all about allowing some low level power draw through the PSU.
Thanks. I had actually planned on a B12-2. I would prefer to keep it tied to the CPU temp, but I guess wiring one of three rad fans to the PSU might be okay. I'm concerned only because it might not spin up at low load, but then it probably isn't needed then anyway. Will the PSU function without a fan attached? I can definitely test this, but just curious if you know,
All points taken. Thank you. I hope it will be good enough though. My main aim doing this is to reduce noise, so I will probably test see if a NB B12-2 does the job wired to he PSU at full load. Not a lot of power hungry parts going into my build. 4790K will probably be running at or close to stock, GTX 970 at or close to stock, water cooling, three fans, SSD mPCIe card on motherboard, no mechanical hard drives, single optical disk won't see much use.
Yes the PSU starts up without fan attached. If using B12-2 then I recommend not to attach to PSU. I haven't tested with SX600-G, but from Aibohphobia's graphs I would expect that a B12-2 won't spin up at all. A B12-3 would spin up, since it has a lower starting voltage and profile that corresponds well to the SX600-G stock fan.
ghostwich
2[H]4U
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- Sep 10, 2014
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Aibohphobia's post with graph: http://hardforum.com/showthread.php?p=1041105741#post1041105741
I agree with WiSK, the NB B12-3 looks like a very close fit to the ADDA fan that's in there - just that they are very different in size (80mm vs 120mm). Just know that you won't be getting the airflow or static pressure numbers that are stated in the specs for the fan because the PSU seems to hit a max of 6v. You'll have to do some math to understand how much air it's pushing and how hard, and decide if you are okay with it being ducted/directed into the intake of the PSU (without the stock fan of course).
The more I think about it, the less pleased I am with the fan and voltage chosen. By using a motherboard PWM fan header to a real PWM fan, I've been much happier with the noise (few pages back, http://hardforum.com/showthread.php?p=1041198250#post1041198250).
That's just incredible. I have been waiting for someone to do this. I would only use a FLIR for occasional use like troubleshooting cooling issues in the PC build or checking my doors and attic for insulation and such. I ordered one but don't know when it will be available....
phinix
Gawd
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- Dec 13, 2005
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- 884
I have one of these and mine does "peeew" sound every 5 seconds.
I think it's a coil noise...
I think it's a coil noise...
Phuncz
2[H]4U
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It's a frigging laser !!
Coil whine more sounds like a high-pitched constant tone or have an irregular pattern (often related to some kind of load). If possible, can you record it with a camera or microphone ?
Coil whine more sounds like a high-pitched constant tone or have an irregular pattern (often related to some kind of load). If possible, can you record it with a camera or microphone ?
AFD
2[H]4U
- Joined
- Aug 7, 2013
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- 2,154
It's a frigging laser !!
Coil whine more sounds like a high-pitched constant tone or have an irregular pattern (often related to some kind of load). If possible, can you record it with a camera or microphone ?
Perhaps it's the "semi-intelligent" fan almost working as it should?
After running silently from a cold boot, the fan in mine makes a very peculiar sound (I would describe it as a quick robotic bird chirp). After which, the fan remains running and never shuts off again (which seems to be the same for everyone else). Could be possible that the sensor in his PSU is right at the cusp of 45C, where the fan keeps shutting off and starting back up again? His description def doesn't sound similar to the coil whine I've heard.
That chirping sound is actually the most pleasant noise I've had coming from a computer. It's not there often enough to be bothersome and is almost charming
I suspect most of the people who has been been complaining about the fan noise have either a water cooled GPU or a very very quiet one, because the fan noise isn't bad at all, though it is there.
After running many many stress tests on my computer I don't hear any coil whine anymore, except for a few seconds whenever i overvolt my GPU. I've been doing that when needed to get through AC3 without crashing.
That chirping sound is actually the most pleasant noise I've had coming from a computer. It's not there often enough to be bothersome and is almost charming
So it's not a flaw but a feature.