Shucked WD80EMAZ no longer spinning up after connecting to newer PSU

monguin

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I have two of these drives shucked from WD easy stores. I used them in an old PC for several years with no trouble. I replaced the PSU in that PC with an Antec Earthwatts 380, and found that the drives didn't power on, I assumed it was a wattage problem. In my new PC, with a Seasonic FOCUS PX-850, not only do the drives not work, but with a certain PSU cable they shut down the PC immediately (a short I guess?). I'm no longer using that cable, but the drives still won't power on. After trying some troubleshooting steps and research, I finally learned learned about the problem with the 3.3v reset line on some of these drives, so I'm guessing that's related. Nothing I have read leads me to believe that the drive would not work even after removing the 3.3v line though. They have not been damaged mechanically in any way, and there is no visible signs of electrical damage. Other hard drives work fine with all other hardware being the same.

My question: if I'm trying to power the drives with a cable that has no 3.3v wire, but they're still not spinning up, what else could be going wrong? What other troubleshooting can I do? I'll note that the drives do not power on in the original enclosures, and I no longer have the old PSU which powered them successfully.

Thanks for any help.
 
but with a certain PSU cable they shut down the PC immediately (a short I guess?)

That cable could have destroyed both drives. I mean if you are talking about a random modular cable that you had from some other power supply.
 
I have two of these drives shucked from WD easy stores. I used them in an old PC for several years with no trouble. I replaced the PSU in that PC with an Antec Earthwatts 380, and found that the drives didn't power on, I assumed it was a wattage problem. In my new PC, with a Seasonic FOCUS PX-850, not only do the drives not work, but with a certain PSU cable they shut down the PC immediately (a short I guess?). I'm no longer using that cable, but the drives still won't power on. After trying some troubleshooting steps and research, I finally learned learned about the problem with the 3.3v reset line on some of these drives, so I'm guessing that's related. Nothing I have read leads me to believe that the drive would not work even after removing the 3.3v line though. They have not been damaged mechanically in any way, and there is no visible signs of electrical damage. Other hard drives work fine with all other hardware being the same.

My question: if I'm trying to power the drives with a cable that has no 3.3v wire, but they're still not spinning up, what else could be going wrong? What other troubleshooting can I do? I'll note that the drives do not power on in the original enclosures, and I no longer have the old PSU which powered them successfully.

Thanks for any help.
did you replace all the modular cables if not you likey dumped 12v into the HDD where it shouldn't of gone and fired it (never reuse modular cables as they do not follow any industry standard, even if the PSU is from same company dont re use modular cables as newer modular PSUs might have the pin out wired differently)

you do need to cut the 3.3v wire or use kapton tape on the hdd 3.3v pin (if you have the orange wire/3.3v wire on the PSU)
 
That cable could have destroyed both drives. I mean if you are talking about a random modular cable that you had from some other power supply.

I assume that means only the board is dead, any idea if that's true?
 
did you replace all the modular cables if not you likey dumped 12v into the HDD where it shouldn't of gone and fired it (never reuse modular cables as they do not follow any industry standard, even if the PSU is from same company dont re use modular cables as newer modular PSUs might have the pin out wired differently)

you do need to cut the 3.3v wire or use kapton tape on the hdd 3.3v pin (if you have the orange wire/3.3v wire on the PSU)

Yep, learning that lesson the hard way. I haven't kept up with hardware developments in a long time, I feel like if I can fry a HD by plugging it in, that's a massive failure of standards. But I guess I only have myself to blame.
 
Yep, learning that lesson the hard way. I haven't kept up with hardware developments in a long time, I feel like if I can fry a HD by plugging it in, that's a massive failure of standards. But I guess I only have myself to blame.
There is no standard for how modular cables connect to a power supply. So it can't be a failure of standards.

I assume that means only the board is dead, any idea if that's true?

Your drives are dead. You might be able to recover the data by swapping the boards with a known good drive that is identical in every way (model, revision, firmware version, etc), but it'll never be a drive you can rely on again.
 
There is no standard for how modular cables connect to a power supply. So it can't be a failure of standards.
Poor choice of wording maybe. I'm upset that the industry has apparently settled on a not-a-standard that allowed this to happen with what were standard connectors and cables in the past (or maybe I'm just wrong there). I wonder why things developed this way, but like I said, my own fault.

Your drives are dead. You might be able to recover the data by swapping the boards with a known good drive that is identical in every way (model, revision, firmware version, etc), but it'll never be a drive you can rely on again.
Thanks for reminding me that I shouldn't rely on them. I'll try to recover the data, and not expect the drives to last more than one power-up at best. That said, I did replace a fried board on a drive once, and it's still working now, over 10 years later. I'm just curious, do you know what makes a difference there?

Thanks for your help.
 
problem is a lot of HDDs have key information stored on the PCB (WD norm have a backup on the platter but you need tools to access it)

the main issue with modular cables is that no one has made a standard for the PSU end of a modular plug, but they all use the same socket and plug usually for there PSUs,, really what should happen is all the PSU makers should make a industry accepted new socket and plug that is the same Pin out on as there is no reason to have different pin out for the sake of it (even from the same manufacture, like Corsair for example has done it and has managed to blow a number of customers pcs up because there Newer line PSUs used different wired pin outs but used same socket so customer replaced PSU only and boom, HDD/SSDs dead typicky)
 
the main issue with modular cables is that no one has made a standard for the PSU end of a modular plug, but they all use the same socket and plug usually for there PSUs,, really what should happen is all the PSU makers should make a industry accepted new socket and plug that is the same Pin out on as there is no reason to have different pin out for the sake of it (even from the same manufacture, like Corsair for example has done it and has managed to blow a number of customers pcs up because there Newer line PSUs used different wired pin outs but used same socket so customer replaced PSU only and boom, HDD/SSDs dead typicky)

It is not in the manufacturers interest to do that. If you need an additional cable, it is in their interest to sell it to you (And they do just that.) Not only that, they sometimes change pinouts from model to model (or generation to generation) within the same manufacturer... Have an extra SATA cable from your 500W Brand-X PSU and need one for your newer 850W Brand-X PSU????? Too bad, they have a new pin out/connector. You need to purchase a new, Brand-X cable. Power supply manufacturers are just cluing into this, look at ink companies such as HP which have been doing this for decades! Had an 85X as your last toner cartridge from just last year? Sorry, when it breaks 366 days after purchase and you buy a new one (because the older model has been discontinued) it only takes 87X and your old investment in toner/print heads/fusers/drum units etc is wasted.
 
I'm confused. Did you reuse your old modular PSU cables in your new power supply? If yes, that was a bad idea as others have mentioned.

If no, are you sure that the 3.3V line is disconnected? Sounds just like the 3.3V issue. Do you have a molex to SATA adapter to try with just for kicks?
 
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