SENTRY: Console-sized gaming PC case project

Ej24

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I think You guys didn't understand me correctly when I said that "we need to know" - it's not about 'getting the knowledge' but waiting for government agencies to classify our product in accordance to their laws so we can calculate if selling to that country is feasible for us or not (as said in my last post).

I don't doubt that you two have done your research. I just thought it may be worth seeing if a fellow entrepreneur in Poland could help provide insight as to how the process went for his project. Perhaps he may help you avoid some unforseen complications? I just imagined it may be worth investigating if you have a spare moment.
 

Fero

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For those of You who haven't subscribed to our newsletter

Hello SaperPL! Have an interesting question in mind, will be grateful if you can answer me. I want to use XboxWireless adapter for controller with Sentry, to make it fully looks like console. Want to put it inside the case (connect to internal usb2.0 directly). As far as I know metal case will fully block any connetction, isn't it? My second plan is to connect it to antenna and put at the back of Sentry, but if you can test connection, it would be grate (not exactly with xbox adapter, but with wifi, for example. Did metal case between router and antenna hurts connection quality a lot?)
 

ZombiPL

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Hello SaperPL! Have an interesting question in mind, will be grateful if you can answer me. I want to use XboxWireless adapter for controller with Sentry, to make it fully looks like console. Want to put it inside the case (connect to internal usb2.0 directly). As far as I know metal case will fully block any connetction, isn't it? My second plan is to connect it to antenna and put at the back of Sentry, but if you can test connection, it would be grate (not exactly with xbox adapter, but with wifi, for example. Did metal case between router and antenna hurts connection quality a lot?)

Yes, metal case will "hurt the connection quality... a lot". Please read something about "Faraday cage", for example this article: link
However Sentry has 3 additional holes above the I/O shield on the back of the case, which are dedicated for external antennas. You can use them for Your Xbox Wireless adapter if it has a socket for external antenna.
 

Fero

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Yes, metal case will "hurt the connection quality... a lot". Please read something about "Faraday cage", for example this article: link
However Sentry has 3 additional holes above the I/O shield on the back of the case, which are dedicated for external antennas. You can use them for Your Xbox Wireless adapter if it has a socket for external antenna.
Thanks, I'll find an antenna for it.
 

SniperCzar

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So I came up with a list of coolers ~1.5U form factor. Note that the case only officially supports up to 48mm so for anything larger YMMV. Some will fit with a fan, some are heatsinks that may fit with fan removed. With the fan removed you may be able to undermount on some C-Type coolers or do what I plan to try - vent+updraft from positive pressure off the PSU fan. Anyways none of these have been tested but I thought it could be helpful.


L9i - 37mm (with fan)
Fits with room to spare but low max TDP. Will saturate easily due to small size.

PH-TC90LS 45mm (with fan)
Not much better than the stock Intel cooler

IS-VC45 45mm (with fan)
Mixed reviews. Seems to perform better at higher TDP due to the phase-change cooler. Others report poor performance

HPL-815EP 45mm (with fan)
Availible for cheap from Newegg. Seems to have good reviews.

Cryorig C7 - 47mm (with fan)
Great reviews. Probably a good pick for most

IS-50 thin - 51mm (with fan)
Discontinued model. Can't seem to find it anywhere. Should fit with a thinner replacement fan, if you can find one.

Jonsbo HP-400
I can't find ANY information about this model. Not sure if it will fit but the few comments allude to great performance.


Now for the fanless/undermount possibilities:

LP53 - 28mm
Extremely good thermal performance for size, probably from the all-copper design. Should fit with a thinner fan?

DeepCool Gabriel - 40mm
Some mixed reviews. Probably better to go with something like the C7 or one of the larger options.

IS-50 - 42mm
Decent C-shape cooler

AR06 - 43mm
Probably not the best choice with reduced airflow

AXP100 - 44mm
There is a similar model that is larger. This one might fit with a fan mounted underneath. Good reviews.

Scythe Big Shuriken 2 - 46mm
Great reviews. I really want to try to fit it with a creative fan solution.


Now for the "Needs a shrink ray" department.

PH-TC12LS 50mm
Saw this used with a fan mounted underneath in a Dan-A4 case, which has the same listed max heatsink clearance. One reviewer noted the performance would be better if the fins were better attached to the pipes.

Shadow Rock LP - 50.4mm
Really solid reviews, 130w TDP. Good luck with the fit and airflow though...

L9x65 - 51mm
This really isn't going to fit without lowering the motherboard, delidding, lapping the base, and/or bending/filing down the fins (hello turbulance). But it's only 1/10" off so I thought I'd include it.
 

SniperCzar

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I've heard good things about it with a 25mm fan (48mm total height).

Still probably not the best choice for me at least, doubt it will cool an OC'd 6600k ;)

I am looking at the Cooler Master XtraFlo 120 Slim or the upcoming 120x15mm slim Noctua to pump major CFM. Reviews for the 700w SilverStone PSU say the built in 120 is awful+noisy and tries way too hard to stay in passive cooling mode. So I'll probably be swapping that out anyways whether or not I go "fanless" on the CPU.
 

Fero

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So I came up with a list of coolers ~1.5U form factor. Note that the case only officially supports up to 48mm so for anything larger YMMV. Some will fit with a fan, some are heatsinks that may fit with fan removed. With the fan removed you may be able to undermount on some C-Type coolers or do what I plan to try - vent+updraft from positive pressure off the PSU fan. Anyways none of these have been tested but I thought it could be helpful.
I have Xigmatek Janus without top fan, its about 47mm. With noctua slim fan it must be great
 

Ej24

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Still probably not the best choice for me at least, doubt it will cool an OC'd 6600k ;)

I am looking at the Cooler Master XtraFlo 120 Slim or the upcoming 120x15mm slim Noctua to pump major CFM. Reviews for the 700w SilverStone PSU say the built in 120 is awful+noisy and tries way too hard to stay in passive cooling mode. So I'll probably be swapping that out anyways whether or not I go "fanless" on the CPU.

The NH l9i will handle a K-series cpu. It'll reach 85c running AIDA which is ridiculous synthetic, gaming should be more like 70-75C. If you're OK with that then it's great. If not, try the cryorig, maybe a few C better.

As for psu, I have the corsair sf-600. It's really good. Silent, no fan below 150W load, and quietly ramps up after that. Never hear it honestly. I recommend it over the Silverstone which has really mixed reviews. Also the corsair is true sfx size (rather than sfx-l) will give you an additional drive slot and more room for cable management.
 

Andorski

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It's probably way too late at this stage of design, but have you guys thought about adding 120/140mm mounting holes above the motherboard? Using a slim 15mm fan instead of the fan that the CPU cooler comes with could make for a better cooling solution since it would cover both the heatsink and surrounding motherboard components. Making those holes would probably require you to design the panel vents in a way that wouldn't conflict where the fan mounts would be, and you would have to make some assumptions on where the CPU socket would be for most people.

I bring this up because I'm currently thinking of 3D printing some braces that would be secured to the panel using screws/washers through the panel vents that could hold up something like the Cryorig 140mm slim fan.
 

Fero

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It's probably way too late at this stage of design, but have you guys thought about adding 120/140mm mounting holes above the motherboard? Using a slim 15mm fan instead of the fan that the CPU cooler comes with could make for a better cooling solution since it would cover both the heatsink and surrounding motherboard components. Making those holes would probably require you to design the panel vents in a way that wouldn't conflict where the fan mounts would be, and you would have to make some assumptions on where the CPU socket would be for most people.

I bring this up because I'm currently thinking of 3D printing some braces that would be secured to the panel using screws/washers through the panel vents that could hold up something like the Cryorig 140mm slim fan.

In my opinion it will not be the best idea. First of all - fan attached close to the grill will be loud. And there are tons of radiators and socket positions, so it will be hard to find good position for the fan.
 
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SniperCzar

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It's probably way too late at this stage of design, but have you guys thought about adding 120/140mm mounting holes above the motherboard? Using a slim 15mm fan instead of the fan that the CPU cooler comes with could make for a better cooling solution since it would cover both the heatsink and surrounding motherboard components. Making those holes would probably require you to design the panel vents in a way that wouldn't conflict where the fan mounts would be, and you would have to make some assumptions on where the CPU socket would be for most people.

I bring this up because I'm currently thinking of 3D printing some braces that would be secured to the panel using screws/washers through the panel vents that could hold up something like the Cryorig 140mm slim fan.

Nothing a hand drill couldn't fix. If you tap the holes you could screw from the inside of the panel and make it look clean (well, sort of). Or just use some plastic biting fan screws from the outside in and make sure the holes are big enough you don't strip them on the metal.

I agree with Fero though that having any decent fan that close to a "honeycomb" grill is going to be LOUD. I've done it before and it's never turned out well (then again my fans were running somewhere near 100CFM). Counter intuitively, you really need a fairly open fan grille if you don't want to ruin the acoustics.

It's possible Saber could add things like a fan mount or plexi side panel option in the future. OTOH I think folks at the moment are more worried about the aesthetics and delivery than the fan mounts.
 

Andorski

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I was wondering how acoustics would be affected. If one were to install a C7 the fan would basically be up against the panel. So I wonder what would make more noise: a 92mm fan at a higher RPM or a 140mm fan at a lower RPM.
 

Fero

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I was wondering how acoustics would be affected. If one were to install a C7 the fan would basically be up against the panel. So I wonder what would make more noise: a 92mm fan at a higher RPM or a 140mm fan at a lower RPM.

I really think it will be easier to attach your fan with strips or something like this. Imo fan, that isn't attached to heatsink directly will be less effective.
 

SaperPL

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I had quite hectic week so I literally didn't have time to chat with You guys about the cooling.

1) 95W BOX on 65W SKU

From my experience, my first pick for everyone before spending big bucks on cooling would be this:
15b.jpg

Intel BOX cooler with copper core - I think it supposed to be 95W TDP since it was sold with 2600K and most of the latter over-65W-TDP chips like my E3-1231v3 and boxed haswell i7's like 4770. If You don't have one, those go literally for 5 bucks in unused condition (with thermal compound untouched like in this photo) from people who bought custom cooling right away.

Those combined with 65W TDP chips are IMO the optimal setup for our case.

2) The not-so-perfect Cryorig C7

Some of You might've noticed that there's something wrong with this picture:
1.JPG

Why C7 is oriented this way and not blowing air to the side?

It's actually quite a big problem with C7 that it's bottom is designed the way it feels like it's obstructing CPU power section when mounted in "the right way for sentry", and initially I thought I cannot do it other way than in the photo.

I was curious though, and after some time I switched the orientation, and during mounting it felt like it was laying on power section and I wasn't sure if it's touching properly the CPU surface. The weird thing is, it works literally the same this way, while it should either not work properly letting the CPU overheat due to improper mounting OR it should work better this way because of the proper airflow orientation.

The second flaw of C7 is that the fan is quite loud in full load when closely facing perforated surface and it's almost silent with same full load in open case. It's kind of obvious but at the same time, what's the point of doing such cooler anyway if it wasn't supposed to be in such configuration. What did they think when designing it?

3) What I think could be the best performer here - Zalman CNPS2X

So most of You probably seen the photos of steam machine prototype disassembly:
Steam-Machines-Screenshot-09.jpg

And You probably noticed that they've used the Zalman CNPS2X in them and I think that this TYPE of cooler should be the best for performance, silence and compatibility.

Why I think that:
- 120W TDP (performance)
- thick 80mm fan (performance)
- fan away from the cover without radiator fins over it (silence)
- low profile (compatibility)
- not so expensive - costs around $30

4) Other contenders: Scythe Kozuti & Noctua LH-N9i

Last but not least, I'd think about those two:
logo-wpisu.jpg


Some old tests on 2600K show that they perform almost the same:
38ghz.png

42ghz.png

Kultura-pracy-wentylatora-scythe-kozuti.png

Kultura-pracy-wentylatora-noctua.png

Kozuti is probably the thing You guys were thinking about when trying to figure out how to mod other coolers by putting the fan below radiator fins. It's also rated 95W and is quite well priced at around $30 while NH-L9i is rated at 65W and costs $10 more. The only advantage of the latter, parameter-wise, is that it's 37mm meaning it'll have better compatibility in our case.

If there are better choices than those, prove me wrong :)
 

pendragon1

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has anybody looked at the id-cooling low-pro solutions? I stumbled onto their ebay site last night and they have a few in the 75-130w tdp range that might work well with the correct cpus. is the absolute max hsf height still the 48mm? there are a couple on there that are under that and can take bigger fans. sorry if these have been covered, I searched but didn't see anything...

http://stores.ebay.ca/id-cooling/Computer-Accessory-/_i.html?_fsub=4836909013
 

vipz

Gawd
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Messages
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I had quite hectic week so I literally didn't have time to chat with You guys about the cooling.

1) 95W BOX on 65W SKU

From my experience, my first pick for everyone before spending big bucks on cooling would be this:
15b.jpg

Intel BOX cooler with copper core - I think it supposed to be 95W TDP since it was sold with 2600K and most of the latter over-65W-TDP chips like my E3-1231v3 and boxed haswell i7's like 4770. If You don't have one, those go literally for 5 bucks in unused condition (with thermal compound untouched like in this photo) from people who bought custom cooling right away.

Those combined with 65W TDP chips are IMO the optimal setup for our case.

2) The not-so-perfect Cryorig C7

Some of You might've noticed that there's something wrong with this picture:
1.JPG

Why C7 is oriented this way and not blowing air to the side?

It's actually quite a big problem with C7 that it's bottom is designed the way it feels like it's obstructing CPU power section when mounted in "the right way for sentry", and initially I thought I cannot do it other way than in the photo.

I was curious though, and after some time I switched the orientation, and during mounting it felt like it was laying on power section and I wasn't sure if it's touching properly the CPU surface. The weird thing is, it works literally the same this way, while it should either not work properly letting the CPU overheat due to improper mounting OR it should work better this way because of the proper airflow orientation.

The second flaw of C7 is that the fan is quite loud in full load when closely facing perforated surface and it's almost silent with same full load in open case. It's kind of obvious but at the same time, what's the point of doing such cooler anyway if it wasn't supposed to be in such configuration. What did they think when designing it?

3) What I think could be the best performer here - Zalman CNPS2X

So most of You probably seen the photos of steam machine prototype disassembly:
Steam-Machines-Screenshot-09.jpg

And You probably noticed that they've used the Zalman CNPS2X in them and I think that this TYPE of cooler should be the best for performance, silence and compatibility.

Why I think that:
- 120W TDP (performance)
- thick 80mm fan (performance)
- fan away from the cover without radiator fins over it (silence)
- low profile (compatibility)
- not so expensive - costs around $30

4) Other contenders: Scythe Kozuti & Noctua LH-N9i

Last but not least, I'd think about those two:
logo-wpisu.jpg


Some old tests on 2600K show that they perform almost the same:
38ghz.png

42ghz.png

Kultura-pracy-wentylatora-scythe-kozuti.png

Kultura-pracy-wentylatora-noctua.png

Kozuti is probably the thing You guys were thinking about when trying to figure out how to mod other coolers by putting the fan below radiator fins. It's also rated 95W and is quite well priced at around $30 while NH-L9i is rated at 65W and costs $10 more. The only advantage of the latter, parameter-wise, is that it's 37mm meaning it'll have better compatibility in our case.

If there are better choices than those, prove me wrong :)

Any chance you can get your hands on the TT Engine 27? I'm very interested in how it compares to the CNPS2X.
 

SaperPL

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Those aren't on sale yet in Poland, but I think they should appear soon in our shops.
 

RosaJ

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Last edited:

Ej24

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Supposedly, cryorig is working on a new universal fan mount for the c7. The c7 with a noctua 92x15mm fan would be great as long as my particular motherboard doesn't have potential clearance issues like SaperPL. Right now the c7 fan, from what I have heard, is mediocre, and SaperPL seems to corroborate that. It always seems each company does one thing well but not everything. Cryorig has a great heatsink but not so good fans. Noctua has good heat sink and amazing fans. Maybe if noctua is really challenged in the m-itx low profile range they'll update the heatsink of the nh-l9i.
 

SaperPL

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Just to clarify things about C7 because I'm not so sure that You can get a lot of motherboards not having this possible issue:

MB97bqnl.jpg


The area marked by red tint touches the motherboard in this orientation and When mounting you simply cannot be sure whether the screws are properly tightened or not in this orientation.

AGkP3wSl.jpg
 

brianj

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Hi All,

first post here! First and foremost congrats for this great case:) I've been waiting for a cool-sleek-compact mini ITX case like this one for ages.. One(probably dumb) question though; Can i run a reference 1080ti(once it comes out of course) and a non OC 6700k in it? I'm planning to install DDR4 3000mhz and an m.2 SSD as well and power the system with the corsair SFX600. I'm I going to thermal throttle and have the fans blasting at full speed making some crazy noise with this config?

edit: On Dr.Zaber website the recommended specs are 65w for the CPU and 150w for GPU.. So correct me if i'm wrong here but this case it's designed for running a 1060/70-ish and a non k core i5(6600) at best?

Maybe it's better go with the dan case for a xx80ti type of GPU and core i7?

I appreciate any input, Thanks!
 

SaperPL

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Those are optimal parameters both for thermal and audibility of the case for casual users who frequently ask us about those specs, and we see that they kind of don't necessarily feel what our case is supposed to work with.

If You're experienced in PC building and have some knowledge on hardware, then decide for yourself if 1080 & i7-6700K running inside our case is okay for You or not, because all those components are almost directly facing outside and when they get hot they will be audible when pushed to the limits. The same thing goes for dondan's A4-SFX - it's practically the same with GPU, PSU and CPU facing directly its sides.

So those FAQ answers are for casual users, If You're hardcore PC builder who needs his Titan inside and doesn't care it's going to be loud, then go ahead - You have the specs on our page and reviews You can check out to decide on the hardware.

Also CPU choice may depend on the cooling solution You're going to use, and we can say that there's no problems with choosing cooler for running 65W CPU, while with 95W CPU's it may become a tricky choice depending on Your requirements and cpu usage.
 

RosaJ

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So I was searching yesterday evening if a LGA 2011 80mm x 80mm Square type cooler can fit on a LGA 1155 itx mobo. More specifically what are the LGA 1155 CPU cooler socket dimensions. I.e. if the 2011 square is 80mm x 80mm, then 1155 is...?

Ultimately I've been looking at both these coolers R15 here and R30 here that are "compatible" with LGA 2011, but can they fit out of the box, be adapted to, or modded to fit on a LGA 1155 mobo?
 

SaperPL

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LGA 2011 - 80 x 80 mm mounting hole distances
gbtx79ud5_2011dim.jpg

LGA 115x- 75 x 75 mm mounting hole distances
lga-1155-1156.png

Comparison: 775 vs 115x vs 1366/2011
apogeext-dimensions.png

Looks like it won't fit out of the box.

Why would You want to go this way? those dynatron rads are rack mounted servers with a lot of airflow.
 

pendragon1

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lol I just looked at all those trying to figure it out. if there wasn't the vapor chamber on the bottom you could probably mod it to fit but...
 

RosaJ

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Darn, thanks for answering, especially with pictures! I was thinking about those because they have the vapor chamber and was planning to do something similar Linus did with the Dan case and add a fan on top.
 

SaperPL

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Linus did the same thing with Sentry and in both cases putting 145W TDP CPU isn't a great idea.

I have an idea how you could install something like this without modding the block though - You could get the 1151 backplate from some cooler, get some long screws, bend them a bit and tighten them with nuts. With some slimmer screws it might be even possible without bending them, but that depends on the distance between the block and the board pcb.

Good idea would be doing this with some piece of metal with drilled holes for test before ordering the actual thing :)
 

RosaJ

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So bend them "inwards" to make up for the 5mm difference for each screw? I'm thinking I could do this, especially with slimmer screws as they could "sit" at an angle. I'll procure some material this weekend and test this. Thanks again SaperPL
 

SaperPL

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The difference will be smaller - You'e got 5mm distance on both axes but for two screws on each axis. So it'll be 2.5mm * sqrt(2) which is ~3.5mm.

You could end up with something like this: __/'''''' if You use a screw with partial thread
 

RosaJ

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Ok I'll have to go to the hardware store and pick out some different screws and figure out which will work best.
 

SaperPL

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There were quite a lot questions about using 120mm AIOs over the project progress and I usually responded to them with CAD images, but at some point I thought that I should check it out IRL, since wires and hoses are not something that's easily figured out with CAD.

I've ordered silverstone tundra slim for the test because it was the only AIO that measurements did add up to what we can fit through the central wall.

Here's the result:

jD3epL9.jpg


Note that while HDD slots are obstructed by tubes, 2.5" drive still fits above the pump/block. I also forgot to put the USB front panel back in place, it fits though.

KJgK1fD.jpg


I think this was one of the hardest builds I ever made, but still, it's doable.

What I had to do:
1) Remove the power switch :( //EDIT: - currently it fits 165mm long GPU and power switch fits with pins bent to the side.
2) Install the motherboard with water block mounted
3) Put the radiator through the hole in central wall
4) Put fan on the radiator and attach it screw by screws to the rad
5) Ziptie radiator to the central wall and bottom air inlet - temporary solution, I'll try to figure out something better later

I'll make performance tests with EVGA GTX1060 SC 6GB when I get the card next week (I'll see if it fits with this AIO first).

Conclusion:
It's doable but will require different short switch instead of the one are be providing and possibly might require some modding to the central wall depending on the AIO radiator dimensions.

It might be better to pick some AIO with slimmer and softer tubing or make your own hard pipe water cooling.

Pros:
+ makes CPU ~10 degrees cooler both in idle and full load (~30/58 vs 40/68)
+ It's actually silent under full load, not inaudible, but neatly silent.
+ It might do good to the card cooling since it's blowing out the air from the back of the card


Cons:
- you have to figure out what to do with power switch
- you have to use short 170mm long GPU
- you have to use short SFX power supply
- you block the hard drive slots with the tubes and have to put the 2.5" drive above the pump
- it is not an elegant solution and closing the cover requires some amount of force

- It's extremely hard to build and figure out what to do with the hard hoses like the ones of tundra
- your power cable routing is blocked by the radiator



What do You guys think? Any ideas to improve this?
 
Last edited:

pendragon1

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cool man! im sure someone will hardline it in no time!
can you turn the water block 180 to give the hose a bit more length or do the barbs hit the ram? its hard to tell from the pics how much clearance you have around the block. if it just just barely touches the ram you could do that and then snake the psu cable between the psu and ram. and maybe, if its not needed, remove that little dog-leg bracket in the center of the wall to make it easier to close.

edit: and if you turf the front usb3 header you might be able to fit a sdd on an angle.
 

SaperPL

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I think that this is the optimal rotation of the block because the biggest problem here is that if hoses aren't stretched, then you're fighting with them when closing the cover. The "dog leg" is actually keeping the tubes down with a ziptie and letting me close the cover :)

There's actually no space between PSU and RAM when the USB is attached.

There's another thing to note here: I don't know how does water cooling work with boarding an airplane, and moving around with something like this in luggage is a big risk if it somehow leaks.
 

Andorski

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In case no one saw it the person who wrote a review on Amazon for the Thermaltake Engine 27 added an update on his experience using the cooler with a 65W CPU. It performs the same as the box Intel cooler.
 

SaperPL

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There were quite a lot questions about using 120mm AIOs over the project progress and I usually responded to them with CAD images, but at some point I thought that I should check it out IRL, since wires and hoses are not something that's easily figured out with CAD.

I've ordered silverstone tundra slim for the test because it was the only AIO that measurements did add up to what we can fit through the central wall.

Here's the result:

jD3epL9.jpg


Note that while HDD slots are obstructed by tubes, 2.5" drive still fits above the pump/block. I also forgot to put the USB front panel back in place, it fits though.

KJgK1fD.jpg


I think this was one of the hardest builds I ever made, but still, it's doable.

What I had to do:
1) Remove the power switch :( //EDIT: - currently it fits 165mm long GPU and power switch fits with pins bent to the side.
2) Install the motherboard with water block mounted
3) Put the radiator through the hole in central wall
4) Put fan on the radiator and attach it screw by screws to the rad
5) Ziptie radiator to the central wall and bottom air inlet - temporary solution, I'll try to figure out something better later

I'll make performance tests with EVGA GTX1060 SC 6GB when I get the card next week (I'll see if it fits with this AIO first).

Conclusion:
It's doable but will require different short switch instead of the one are be providing and possibly might require some modding to the central wall depending on the AIO radiator dimensions.

It might be better to pick some AIO with slimmer and softer tubing or make your own hard pipe water cooling.

Pros:
+ makes CPU ~10 degrees cooler both in idle and full load (~30/58 vs 40/68)
+ It's actually silent under full load, not inaudible, but neatly silent.
+ It might do good to the card cooling since it's blowing out the air from the back of the card


Cons:
- you have to figure out what to do with power switch
- you have to use short 170mm long GPU
- you have to use short SFX power supply
- you block the hard drive slots with the tubes and have to put the 2.5" drive above the pump
- it is not an elegant solution and closing the cover requires some amount of force

- It's extremely hard to build and figure out what to do with the hard hoses like the ones of tundra
- your power cable routing is blocked by the radiator



What do You guys think? Any ideas to improve this?
I have updated the photos and tinkered a bit. I could somehow fit 165mm long GPU with the switch still fitting somehow inside with its pins bent.

In case no one saw it the person who wrote a review on Amazon for the Thermaltake Engine 27 added an update on his experience using the cooler with a 65W CPU. It performs the same as the box Intel cooler.

I think that Thermaltake lost the whole purpose about these by using this tech as a fan. The silence of the original came from the fact that air wasn't slashed between the radiator and the fan. It looks to me like Thermaltake doesn't have the manufacturing precision to make it like it's supposed to be, so they've made it like this for the marketing purposes :(
 
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