Seiki SE50UY04 3840x2160 50" TV ($1300)

I think they are pushing hard for the 40" Pro, but I doubt it will take off. The allure of the 39/50 was that they were so cheap + they worked well enough.
 
So I just found something interesting.. anyone else running the

G:\ATSC_THTF_SY14343_ST2975C_CMI_V500dk1_P01_20140707

firmware?

Never noticed it before because I never tried changing the color format away from RGB, but YCbCr444 is now an option at 3840x2160. Still 30hz, but it's 444 color, not 420 or 422.
 
pbassjunk said:
So I just found something interesting.. anyone else running the

G:\ATSC_THTF_SY14343_ST2975C_CMI_V500dk1_P01_20140707

firmware?

Never noticed it before because I never tried changing the color format away from RGB, but YCbCr444 is now an option at 3840x2160. Still 30hz, but it's 444 color, not 420 or 422.
Click to expand...

You got 444 out of the SE50UY04? Can you take a picture of the display at 4k showing this text?

http://cdn.avsforum.com/b/b4/b4a44044_vbattach208609.png

The vertical lines for the red and blue tests at the bottom are blurry on mine.

Where did you get that firmware version?
 
pbassjunk said:
Never noticed it before because I never tried changing the color format away from RGB, but YCbCr444 is now an option at 3840x2160. Still 30hz, but it's 444 color, not 420 or 422.
Click to expand...

YCbCr444 does not offer any benefit over true RGB for PC users, the opposite is more likely.
 
@geok1ng or others, what are some of the cals you are using (basic and adv menus)?

My first seiki really needed minimal tweaking (50" 05282013 fw). However, I just got a second recently for the office -1, and it is not nearly as "gravy".
 
Why are these things so damn hard to find now? For the last few months i haven't been able to find one under like 800 bucks.. Was hoping to buy 2 more for surround @ 120hz :p
 
geok1ng said:
After 2 days of pixelfckng i have preliminary results from Spyder4express calibration of a Seiki 39".
J72oqjz.jpg


I am tired of trial and error, so braver souls could improve my results and remove the overcast greens and undercut-ed reds, but 99% of sRGB is definitevely something to write home for a $500 display with a $80 colorimeter. Considering that i am partially color blind:p

For the record, a factory reset showed that out of the box the "normal" color temp achieves 96% of sRGB, with much loss from reds and too much green and blue.

A strange behavior spyder4express increased the minimum brightness necessary to pass black level tests in lagom, The TV has best contrast around brightness 59 so i lost some raw contrast.
the test that showed greatest improvement over manual calibration was white levels, now the last white level- 254 appears over a much greater range of contrast and brightness settings.

I am running at:
Backlight 100
Contrast 43
Brightness 70
Color mode normal
gain red 134
gain green 113
gain blue 123
offset red 569
offset green 471
offset blue 451

There is probably another program or a hack that would allow me to see the white point temperature of this calibration or the raw contrast ratio, but the software included on the spyder4express just informs the color space coverage: 99% sRGB, 70% NTSC, 76% adobe RGB.
Click to expand...

i took the liberty of searching my own post to answer the question;)
 
until the open post creates some sticky link to calibration reports ( and mine was not done with the best color calibartor available), it is way easier to find something if you know what you are looking for, and i had to look for the data myself because i changed boards recently to fix a hardware issue and had to reenter calibration data.
 
So i have the 50" SE50UY04 tv and am having problems with 1080p @ 120hz. I have been using it for months 3840x2160 and it has been fine. So it will just black out every half hour or so, either playing games, desktop, or just watching plex.

I have flashed the custom firmware that allows me to select 120hz and ufo test shows i am running at 120hz. I have an ATI 280x hooked up via HDMI. I have read around about other people having this issue. But haven't really found an answer.
 
one random blackout once in a blue moon can be blamed on the HDMI cable. try "24AWG HDMI" on ebay or amazon. now if you TV starts random blackouts after 1 hour of use and them the blackouts become more and more frequent, you have a bad board. i suggest replacing the power board and possibly the main board as well
 
geok1ng said:
one random blackout once in a blue moon can be blamed on the HDMI cable. try "24AWG HDMI" on ebay or amazon. now if you TV starts random blackouts after 1 hour of use and them the blackouts become more and more frequent, you have a bad board. i suggest replacing the power board and possibly the main board as well
Click to expand...

The thing is, it only black outs at 120hz in 1080p. 60hz runs fine. It will run 3840x2160 at 30hz all day as well, which technically is the same bandwidth. It may just be my ATI graphics card as well. Think my next card will be Nvidia.

From reading around I thought it could do 1080p at 120hz without error. Doesn't matter to much anymore since a QNIX Q2710 Korean monitor is in the mail for me that i can overclock and will be my main gaming monitor. The Seiki had horrible colors anyways. It may become a monitor for work to look at bigger 11x17 prints.
 
AMD or NVIDIA it is the same: either recheck the 1080p@120hz custom settings given on this thread, or change cables. I have suceeded in blank free 1080p120hz using cards from both brands: 6950, 7950, 780 and 970.
 
HICKFARM said:
So i have the 50" SE50UY04 tv and am having problems with 1080p @ 120hz. I have been using it for months 3840x2160 and it has been fine. So it will just black out every half hour or so, either playing games, desktop, or just watching plex.

I have flashed the custom firmware that allows me to select 120hz and ufo test shows i am running at 120hz. I have an ATI 280x hooked up via HDMI. I have read around about other people having this issue. But haven't really found an answer.
Click to expand...

get a better hdmi cable, had the same issue for a while before replacing the hdmi cable, no issues since.
 
HICKFARM said:
The thing is, it only black outs at 120hz in 1080p. 60hz runs fine.
Click to expand...


Sometimes its the cable, but i found that a shittier or longer cable generally resulted in artifacting more than it did anything else...

The thing to 100% fix the blanking issue is to find the right firmware. I'm running 3 of these displays and they are all using the custom firmware that was made by some guy awhile ago (I think it was on OCN or something similar... cannot be that hard to find)

The guy had it set to where the 1080p scaling was actually native to the display.. instead of forcing it with the black bars that came standard on 2/3 of my displays until i forced the OC in Nvidia Control Panel. Hard to explain when you haven't dealt with these displays very much but it really is KEY if you're looking to use one of these things as a daily driver... Get that firmware and i bet you'll be set.
 
Does someone how a copy of "SE39UY04_20130828.zip" none of Seiki downloads seem to be working.

EDIT: Nvmd, found 'em.
 
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Has anyone got better calibration settings than me so far?
I'm looking to edit photos on this screen, and after days of messing with settings and comparing to various other displays I've concluded with these settings. Note: It ends up being dark and grey, but the colors and contrast are pretty spot on accurate.

I set up this setting replacing the "Movie" preset, for quick switching via remote menu for when I edit photos.
Contrast: 16 (That's right. That freaking low is what's accurate.)
Brightness: 61
Sharpness: 0 of course
Color: 17 (Accurate, not undersaturated or oversaturated.)
Color Mode: Warm:
Gain Red: 141, Green: 141, Blue: 117
Offset Red: 520, Green: 510, Blue: 510
BackLight: mine is 91 (at least 80)

I don't see what offset really does compared to gain, seems to do the exact same thing.
Something I noticed while trying to photo edit with these settings is, for example you have a picture with an aquagreen background, sometimes it looks like the wall is 2 different colors and they contrast, as if there's no aqua but just greenishblue and blueishgreen.

For pc use I found these low-light settings to be preferred, even tho contrast and color is way oversaturated and pop-y: (can't do anything about it other than go to the accurate settings as above)
Contrast: 36, Brightness: 50, Color: 26. And for full brightness, 50, 50, and Color at 42. (Both using "Normal" as: 132 123 127, 512 512 517)

Again, of course a tv isn't a great choice for photo editing.. But I did expect more-accurate results.. I *really* wish the Contrast setting didn't also increase the brightness!! It's stupid, because you either get great contrast, or you substitute the contrast for brightness with a grey screen.

Note also that screens usually give a florescent shade, and if you want you could configure the Warm setting to something that eliminates them, but I don't think it's necessary as many screens everywhere have all kinds of shades and you can never truly be "perfect sRGB". (Nor is it worth financially.) My photoediting setting seems fair to the blues and yellows IMO. Also note, I noticed if you get rid of the yellow screen tint, then the blue level is too high on blue colors (or more so, not enough green and yellow/orange/red) - thence why the settings are on the warmer side than white balance being actual white.

*edit: Recalibrated to even more accuracy.
 
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After using this TV for a while, I have a new problem - it doesn't remember the overscan settings!
I go to service menu and set both to 100, and after I turn the TV off, when I turn it back on the overscan is again at 96!
No other settings are affected.
I wonder if anybody experienced this?
Is there like, a battery on the board or a supercapacitor, which helps retain the settings?
 
Hi,
I'm pretty late to the party, but I do have one of my ZWS DP1.2->LVDS boards hooked up to a V390DK1 panel now, want to test it to see what it can do with a proper interface board.

Does anyone have an i2c dump for poweron, 4k->2k mode switch, and 2k->4k mode switch?
 
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ooooo

I wasn't expecting to get this, but I got the innolux documentaiton on the i2c interface for both their vx1 panels and the lvds ones. This should be interesting :D
 
cirthix said:
ooooo

I wasn't expecting to get this, but I got the innolux documentaiton on the i2c interface for both their vx1 panels and the lvds ones. This should be interesting :D
Click to expand...

If you make your board compatible with this, I will make sweet sweet love to you.

What kind of refresh rates would we be looking at?
 
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Working at 1080p120. Now to test how far this can go. I know the controller can do 1080p240 and 4k60...

Of course this is no-latency and RGB 8bpc/10bpc too.


IMG_1050[1].jpg


IMG_1060[1].jpg
 
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Is this work of any use to the owner of the 70" with the V-by-one 16-lane interface? I'd love to run higher than 4k30 and 1440p60.
 
linuxdude9 said:
How'd the testing go? :)
Click to expand...

With the official i2c commands, it doesn't overclock well at all. 125Hz is fine, 130 is not. At 4k, even 33Hz fails. Maybe there is an i2c command that puts the tcon into a dumb mode, but so far I have not found this. I haven't read the entirety of this megathread, but has anyone managed to get no-frameskiping overclocks out of this panel?

In about a week, I will receive the first vx1 PCBs and I already have a 4k60 tcon for this panel with the vx1 interface. I fully expect that this will work at 4k60+1080p120 with this new setup, but probably with similar not-overclcokable characteristics.
 
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cirthix said:
With the official i2c commands, it doesn't overclock well at all. 125Hz is fine, 130 is not. At 4k, even 33Hz fails. Maybe there is an i2c command that puts the tcon into a dumb mode, but so far I have not found this. I haven't read the entirety of this megathread, but has anyone managed to get no-frameskiping overclocks out of this panel?

In about a week, I will receive the first vx1 PCBs and I already have a 4k60 tcon for this panel with the vx1 interface. I fully expect that this will work at 4k60+1080p120 with this new setup, but probably with similar not-overclcokable characteristics.
Click to expand...

What kind of additional hardware would someone that has the Seiki TV need to use it with a VX1 interface vs LVDS?

I haven't seen any overclocks surpass the ones you've listed.
 
The only sucessful report of Ocing on the 39" panel was on the Skyworth model. Skyworth parts are available on chinese sites. there are quite a few post [H]ere about the hardware, and one of those mentions a place where you can get pdfs of the technical aspects on the Skyworth hardware. Pardon my ignorance, but is it possible that the same panel has different "firmwares"?
I believed that simply putting a Skyworth mobo + power board inside a seiki chassi would solve it...
 
geok1ng said:
The only sucessful report of Ocing on the 39" panel was on the Skyworth model. Skyworth parts are available on chinese sites. there are quite a few post [H]ere about the hardware, and one of those mentions a place where you can get pdfs of the technical aspects on the Skyworth hardware. Pardon my ignorance, but is it possible that the same panel has different "firmwares"?
I believed that simply putting a Skyworth mobo + power board inside a seiki chassi would solve it...
Click to expand...
I had a skyworth 39 with this panel and was unable to replicate their results. Tried a few different FWs for it too.
 
4k60 is a must for this panel. is the 3D setting somehow related to the 30Hz limit at 4k?
 
cirthix - Let me know if you need another tester. I'll disassemble my screen in a heartbeat towards a 4k60p goal. I only use it with PC, so HDMI/DP/DVI without audio/onscreenOSD/USB anything goes. I'm also a repair tech with good electrical background (as I'm sure many here are). I'm 100% on your buylist once you're selling.
 
First image at 4k60. colorspace, bitdepth, and lane mapping are all wrong, along with a bad signal line on one of the boards, so I need to tweak the firmware a bit and inspect for a soldering failure.

I'd like to say now that 4k60 10bpc directly into the tcon will certainly work. Not sure of cost yet, but it will be two boards, the shown dp2lvds with an lvds2vx1 board stacked on top of it. The tcon will also have to be swapped to a Vx1 version.

Almost there :)

IMG_1135[1].JPG
 
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cirthix said:
First image at 4k60. colorspace, bitdepth, and lane mapping are all wrong, along with a bad signal line on one of the boards, so I need to tweak the firmware a bit and inspect for a soldering failure. Almost there :)

View attachment 4239
Click to expand...

Colorspace fixed. Pretty sure all of the green is from poor connections. The boards are stacked togeher at an angle right now because of a clearance issue, maybe the inner connector isn't mating properly. I'll have an extension in a few days, will update then.

IMG_1136[1].JPG
 
cirthix said:
Colorspace fixed. Pretty sure all of the green is from poor connections. The boards are stacked togeher at an angle right now because of a clearance issue, maybe the inner connector isn't mating properly. I'll have an extension in a few days, will update then.
Click to expand...

Can I pre-order a board? Any chance your boards will support FreeSync in the future?

What's the max refresh rate at 1080p with the VX1 interface?
 
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