Sanity Check before build: P55 i7

D

Derfnofred

Gawd
Joined
Dec 11, 2009
Messages
606
Case: Silverstone gd04 (Already bought, frys) $105

PSU: EA650 (Frys) $60+tax

Mobo: gigabyte p55m-ud2 (Frys) $99+tax

Processor: either x3440 or i7 860 (depending on what my friend can actually get) Unknown cost ATM

CPU Cooler: ? Need to be super-low profile due to the case, so tower coolers are out. Scythe Big Shuriken? (Newegg) $34 + $6 shipping

Memory: GSkill Ripjaws 2x2gb 1600mhz (Newegg) $94

HDD:Caviar black 1TB + silverstone hdd case deal http://www.newegg.com/Product/ComboDealDetails.aspx?ItemList=Combo.309250 $100

GPU: XFX 5750 1gb (Tigerdirect) $139 - whatever bing

Wireless Card: Netgear PCI 802.11n card (Tigerdirect) $20

DVD: Lite-On DH-24AAS Internal DVD Writer (Tigerdirect) $30

Soundcard: ?? TBD but likely firewire with at least 8 analog outputs

Keyboard, mouse, blah blah

1) What will you be doing with this PC? Gaming? Photoshop? Web browsing? etc
I flat out need a modern computer for in general use. Not too game crazy, use photoshop quite a bit (but I shoot a 5D, so not as taxing on the system as newer cameras), surf the net, and occasionally locally run matlab code for analysis for school. Oh, and as a music box (digital crossovers to a home-built actively driven system). So, general, competent use.

2) What's your budget? Are tax and shipping included?
Gunning for <1000, all said and done w/ tax and shipping

3) Where do you live?
I can get some of my parts in Portland, OR, and the rest will have to go to San Diego, CA

4) What exact parts do you need for that budget? CPU, RAM, case, etc. Please be very specific.
*The whole shooting match. Right now I have an ancient laptop that I cannot wait to unbuntu.

So:
power supply, graphics card, sound card (thinking a prosound firewire-base one), mobo, processor fan, processor, memory, hdd, dvd/cd/etc, 802.11g card. Oh, keyboard (thesis more than game worthy) and mouse. And whatever else I've forgotten as well.

5) If reusing any parts, what parts will you be reusing? Please be especially specific about the power supply. List make and model.

I have external HDD for backup purposes.
Already purchased a Silverstone GD04 mATX case

6) Will you be overclocking?
Marginally, if at all. Generally conservative build that tries to maximize bang for buck. Probably run memory at 1600mhz, so whatever overclock that ends up being

7) What size monitor do you have and/or plan to have?
I own a HP LP2475W, so 1920x1200

8) When do you plan on building/buying the PC?
Starting ASAP, but not really in any hurry, so I can bargain hunt a plenty.

9) What features do you need in a motherboard? RAID? Firewire? Crossfire or SLI support? etc.
Firewire would be nice, as my external can run off it and I'll likely be running an external soundcard.

10) Do you already have a legit and reusable/transferable OS key/license?
I already purchased the Win7 student deal.


I'd prefer a quieter system than not... so a good, future proof, quiet case and peripherals would be nice. Not militant about that, though. Just something that is not noticeable when music is playing at a moderate-to-low level.

My friend works at Intel and can help me with the processor. But let's budget for 1000, ignore the discount and then I can buy software with the difference. No ssds though ;-(
 
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as a first point: would you mind terribly editing your post and adding color so its easier to read

that said:
why are you buying a FireWire audio interface, thats dreadfully expensive if you're just using it for outputs, and you can get a PCI soundcard with 8ch analog outs for like $60

otherwise, looks good except why the HDD case? (you want the HD outside of the system?)
 
Obobski--hope that helps ;-)

I'm using the computer as my hifi sound source to drive a pair of active speakers. Ergo, I want/need 24/96 outputs for each driver with good DACs. I'm not in the mind to waste time updating, I was going to go for broke--probably one of m-audio's firewire series.

The HDD case comes as a package with the the caviar black. It's only a couple dollars cheaper at tigerdirect (~95), so I might as well have the hdd case for futureproofing/backup purposes.

Thanks for the check though.
 
Sanity Check: your completely friggin insane...




lol looks like it will be a nice rig though.. if anything id go with an i5 vs having the i7.. depending on the price.. nothing really there that would require an i7..
 
Derfnofred said:
Obobski--hope that helps ;-)
Click to expand...

:D

I'm using the computer as my hifi sound source to drive a pair of active speakers. Ergo, I want/need 24/96 outputs for each driver with good DACs. I'm not in the mind to waste time updating, I was going to go for broke--probably one of m-audio's firewire series.

The HDD case comes as a package with the the caviar black. It's only a couple dollars cheaper at tigerdirect (~95), so I might as well have the hdd case for futureproofing/backup purposes.

Thanks for the check though.
Click to expand...

oh, free case is always cool

as far as the audio, its pointless, 24/96 is available from PCI and PCIe cards just the same, in many cases 24/192 (not that this matters, nothing uses 192k)

just get this and be done with it:
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16829127002

CMI8788 based, same chip as the Xonar D2's and X-Meridian, uses the C-Media reference design, processor can do 32/192 into 8x8, basically every Dolby and DTS feature available for PCs under the sun, and its cheap

Asus has put the Xonar prices back up, here's the D2x:
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16829132005

doesn't really gain you a whole lot, except for Asus' drivers (which means EAX emulation and a few other gaming related tweaks, but really not that much, not $200 much)

if you don't mind spending a bunch and really want line outs for every channel instead of buying splitters:
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16829271005

all three of these use CMI8788's, have identical processing power and features, the HT Omega has a headphone amp and arguably better opamps, the D2x is PCIe, has neato light up jacks (I actually think this is a cool feature and selling point), and Asus' modified drivers

I'd probably just get the bgears, save $100-$150, be done with it

if you want to go with some ridiculous pro interface for no-nonsense control of every output, get this:
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16829121011

basically, there is no reason to spend $500-$1000 on this
 
you said photoshop, and i'm assuming the student version of windows 7 is 32 only, otherwise I'd say bump that ram to 8GB :)
 
Thanks guys!
Sirmonkey--I knew I was insane, so it's nice having a cross reference ;-) My buddy works at intel, so I have the benefit of his prices. Otherwise, I'd definitely be looking at the i5 750.

Shaft7--Nope, I've already ordered Win7 64 Pro, and the CD should be in the mail tomorrow. I'm doing 4gb now, and if I see a problem in the future, I'll toss another 2x2gb in there. More memory is definitely the next thing on the list.

Obobski--Thanks so much for the links! Originally, I was thinking of a m-audio firewire 410, or the e-mu 1616... but I'll keep an eye out. Definitely looking in the $150 range. The bluegears has some promise, so I'll dig into it a bit deeper.
 
Derfnofred said:
Obobski--Thanks so much for the links! Originally, I was thinking of a m-audio firewire 410, or the e-mu 1616... but I'll keep an eye out. Definitely looking in the $150 range. The bluegears has some promise, so I'll dig into it a bit deeper.
Click to expand...

nothing justifies either of those cards, and neither of them will give you any quality benefits (on the output side, they'll blow the bgears out of the water in terms of micpreamps and total I/O, but just for driving 8ch audio out, having something that has zero Dolby/DTS tech aside from passthrough for home theatre usage isn't my cup of tea, FW410 is also out of production and fairly hard to find from a legitimate retailer, and E-MU 1616 isn't a FW interface, its PCI, PCIe, or ExpressCard, and I still wouldn't suggest it for your usage)

shaft:
the Win7 Student package is available as 32-bit or 64-bit, as OEM software basically:
msft said:
Do I get 32- or 64-bit software?

You can choose to download either 32- OR 64-bit software. Not sure which one to get? Click here to learn how to check what your computer is currently running.

If you accidentally downloaded or activated the incorrect version, you will need to contact [email protected].
Click to expand...

so if you got the 32-bit version, email them and hope they'll fix things for you, and then grab another 2-4GB of RAM as shaft suggested
oh, and make sure you get Win7 PRO (for so many reasons)
 
enginurd said:
Mainly cuz its the same f'n price, lol.
Click to expand...

that, and it has guaranteed five years longer support, and WinXP mode, and isn't designed to target "home" users with features like (and I quote) "HDTV support", "HD video support", "HD ready", yadda yadda blah blah

but yes, it also costs the same, so ignore Digital River's whole "unless you need XYZ pro function get Home Premium" nonsense and buy the full featured version
 
Is there any reason I shouldn't use Kingston HyperX 1800mhz memory instead of the ripjaws 1600, given that I should be able to run lower CAS numbers at equivalent clock speeds, or support a higher overclock at a constant multiplier? It's specced at 1.7-1.9 instead of the standard 1.65--is this too much? Unreliable?

http://www.frys.com/product/5994644?site=sr:SEARCH:MAIN_RSLT_PG

Thanks!

EDIT--I'm going to go with the ripjaws, since I won't need the extra overhead, and the voltage is drastically lower (1.5v)
 
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Intel specified max RAM voltage is 1.65v. Going any higher may damage your CPU, since the memory controller is integrated into it. ;) For best compatibility, stick to the JEDEC spec of 1.5v.

BTW, you won't notice the difference between CL8 and CL9, unless you're running benchmarks (and even then, its negligible), so don't pay much of a price premium for lower latency.
 
enginurd said:
Intel specified max RAM voltage is 1.65v. Going any higher may damage your CPU, since the memory controller is integrated into it. ;) For best compatibility, stick to the JEDEC spec of 1.5v.

BTW, you won't notice the difference between CL8 and CL9, unless you're running benchmarks (and even then, its negligible), so don't pay much of a price premium for lower latency.
Click to expand...

This should be made into a sticky. :)
 
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