Samsung UN40KU6300 40-Inch 4K

how does the PWM on this monitor?

thats what turns me off about samsung, they cheaped out on the backlighting otherwise

i am assuming the next generation version of this monitor is the mu9000
 
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Ashun said:
SuplexCity Sure! These settings work on my display (firmware 1207) and give a DE below 2 for nearly every color. As I mentioned to Ape, these should get you in the ballpark, but without a colorimeter, you can only expect so much. If you're used to most displays, which usually ship way too blue, using these may look dingy at first, but stick with it.

There are different settings for different device types. The first is for the input specified as "PC" and the second is for other types. I've calibrated the PC settings with a backlight setting of 11 (approx. 176 cd/m^2) to keep the backlight from using PWM dimming, and to preserve your eyes when you look at normal websites with white backgrounds. For the other modes, I use the full brightness of the backlight, set at 20 (approx. 276 cd/m^2). I presume you're using these modes for movies or HDR stuff, so you'll want the extra brightness.

PC Mode

Picture Mode: Standard
Backlight: 11
Brightness: 46
Contrast: 95
Sharpness: 50 (default for PC)
HDMI Black Level: Normal
Color Tone: Warm2
Gamma: -2

PC mode only allows a 2-point gamma adjustment via RGB offsets and gains.
R_o: 5
G_o: -4
B_o: -26

R_g: -5
G_g: 6
B_g: -14


Other Modes (keep everything not mentioned the same as PC Mode)

Picture Mode: Movie
Backlight: 20
Sharpness: 0 (default for non-PC modes... confusing)
Dynamic Contrast: Off
Gamma: -3

For White Balance, we have to adjust both 2-point and 10-point.

2-Point first:
R_o: 2
G_o: 0
B_o: -8

R_g: 1
G_g: 0
B_g: -18

For 10-point, I'll post each setting as such: %: R, G, and B

10%: 14, 16, -42
20%: 7, 6, -49
30%: 0, 7, -28
40%: -3, 6, -23
50%: -2, 5, -21
60%: -6, 5, -14
70%: -9, 5, -14
80%: -10, 7, -7
90%: -9, 5, -4
100%: -4, 3, 7

And we need to adjust the Color Space to Custom:
Each of the primaries and secondaries (Red, Green, Blue, Yellow, Cyan, Magenta) have three values for R, G, and B:

R: 50, 0, 2
G: 8, 50, 4
B: 0, 6, 50
Y: 50, 49, 3
C: 0, 49, 51
M: 44, 2, 50
Click to expand...


What are you using the measure your Samsung?

I'm not an expert but I have done my share of calibrating my TV's and your settings look rather wierd. Why 46 brightness? That just artificially increases black level from what the panel is capable of, ruining your contrast ratio. 45 is correct where nothing gets hard clipped nor elevated. If you get black crush, you have to fix your gamma and not the brightness level. Why is the gamma slider at -3? That is rather extreme setting that will in reality make your gamma go closer to 2.5 or something. Actually now that I wrote this did you try to fix bad black crush by increasing the brightness? With my KS8500 gamma setting of -1 is closest to optimal level. For HDR you do not want to touch the gamma slider at all, it ruins the image. HDR does not do gamma in normal way.

If you have set the white point correctly in 2-point white balance you should not need to touch the 100% setting in 10-point. Yes you can finetune the white point a bit with it but I have found it also causes more problems, get it right in 2-point and leave it to all 0 in 10-point. Also while 10-point sliders are used to make color temperature flat through the grey scale it can also be used to fix your gamma, which judging from the curve you posted is quite out of whack. Just increase or decrease all 3 sliders at the same time. It wont affect the color temperature but it will move the gamma curve up and down instead. You may have to do several passes from 10% to 90% (don't touch 100% when doing gamma) before you get it where you want it to.

You may have low dE with your settings for colors but I am quite sure you are not getting the most out of your TV in contrast and gamma department with the way your TV is set now. What does HCFR say your contrast ratio is? It should be over 4000:1 even after calibration.
 
MaZa At those exact settings, PC mode measures 4376:1 and the other 4014:1 ANSI contrast, but these are limited in precision because the Optix XR can only measure brightness to the nearest hundredth (0.04, 0.05, etc.).

You're right about the transition from 45 to 46 brightness, but at lower gamma settings, the black level rise is almost imperceptible, even in a pitch black room. The measured contrast also doesn't change, but that's an issue with the colorimeter. The only way I'm able to get PC mode gamma to accurately track is to drop the contrast slider way down to 79 and raise the backlight to 20 to maintain the same ~170 nits brightness; that tames the gamma rise past 70%, but drops ANSI contrast down to around 2000:1. How are you dealing with PC mode?

The procedure you suggested for setting the 10-point is great. The other-mode settings I posted earlier give a gamma response that looks better than the PC-mode image I posted above, but I can refine it with your technique. I'll need to play around with it a bit more.
 
Ashun said:
MaZa At those exact settings, PC mode measures 4376:1 and the other 4014:1 ANSI contrast, but these are limited in precision because the Optix XR can only measure brightness to the nearest hundredth (0.04, 0.05, etc.).

You're right about the transition from 45 to 46 brightness, but at lower gamma settings, the black level rise is almost imperceptible, even in a pitch black room. The measured contrast also doesn't change, but that's an issue with the colorimeter. The only way I'm able to get PC mode gamma to accurately track is to drop the contrast slider way down to 79 and raise the backlight to 20 to maintain the same ~170 nits brightness; that tames the gamma rise past 70%, but drops ANSI contrast down to around 2000:1. How are you dealing with PC mode?

The procedure you suggested for setting the 10-point is great. The other-mode settings I posted earlier give a gamma response that looks better than the PC-mode image I posted above, but I can refine it with your technique. I'll need to play around with it a bit more.
Click to expand...

Curious. I would have never thought about it. I always left them 45/100 and say to everyone "never touch them".

With PC mode where 10-point gamma is not available I just let software deal with it. Gamma and greyscale can be fixed in non-color managed applications with ICC profile. Displaycal can lock the ICC profile in games so gamma gets corrected as long as I use borderless windowed mode in games. In games where Fullscreen is only option I just have to deal with it. Heck, gamma is the least of my problems in PC mode anyway, with KS serie Samsung you are stuck in DCI-P3 colorspace with no way to turn it down except with 3DLUT through Reshade Mediator but that does not work with all modern games.
 
So, I've tried a total of 6 different HDMI 2.0 switches, and none of them worked 100%. While I could get 4K60 mostly working on all, getting to HDR and 4:4:4 was a problem and UHD Color in the Samsung menu was a big problem.

I also tried a variety of cables, all rated to HDMI 2.0, and still the switches didn't work. Some would have no signal at all once UHD Color was enabled, sometimes depending on the source (Linux seemed to *only* work with it on, but Win 10 *only* with it off). Some worked for a few seconds or minutes at a time, then flicker black, another with sparkles and flickering, etc.

The strange part is that everything works fine when connected by themselves to the TV on HDMI1 with the same cables. I could enable UHD Color, HDR, 4:4:4, 4K60, etc. and it's fine. But sometimes not with the switch. Well, the PS4 always seems to work, as did my 4K Blu-ray player (except for 1 switch that didn't support HDCP 2.2). But the PCs were always a problem.

Is there something I'm missing here? I can't believe that 6 different switches from different brand are all bunk, I feel like it has to be something up with this TV. In any case, I think it's working OK now with my Linux box on HDMI 1 w/ UHD Color and the rest on the switch on HDMI 2. So I can live with that, but it's just a little more hassle than having everything the same.
 
So today I received 1220 update on my 40" KU6300, after searching online it seems it's fixing some HDR issues and changelog is:

- Model : KU6290, KU6300, KU630D, KU6500, KU650D, KU6600
- Version : 1220.6
- Improved usability 1. Improved browser performance 2. Improved app performance 3. Improved stability 4. Improved usability of input devices

The only issue I have so far is that when I change HDMI inputs on my TV, it keeps asking me to set that device and it's getting quite annoying. Even when I change inputs on my HDMI switch for HDMI1 which toggles between my Mac/PC and PS4 :(
 
So I search all Samsung Forums and found a way to fix it, just in case others have similar issue. They used this for TV's that switch to another input when the source is turned on, though it worked for my case as well.

useroWjpiSgU61 wrote:
This is the solution for the HDMI auto-detect

HDMI AUTO DETECT TOGGLE

The HDMI Auto Detect feature can be turned off on Samsung 2016/2017 TVs using the remote control by pressing a certain key sequence (either IR or Bluetooth remote works).

1. Make sure TV is updated to latest firmware version
2. Switch TV to TV source – HDMI may not work with BT Smart remotes. TV source works with either remote
3. Using IR Remote: Mute + 7 + 2 + 9 + Exit
4. Using Smart Control: Mute + Vol Down + Ch Down + Mute

PLEASE NOTE: TV does not display any messages after you press the above key combination. This function is a toggle. So if you want to turn HDMI Auto Detect on again, press the same key sequence.
 
Seventyfive said:
I did a custom calibration using my Colormunki Display. If you want to try it, here's the settings:

To get balanced whitepoint:

Backlight - 20
Brightness - 44
Contrast - 100
ColorTone - Warm2
Gamma - 0

ICC profile:
ICC Profile Samsung - SAMSUNG
Click to expand...

...two years later:dead:

I am happy with the settings but I have to ask.
Are these settings good for movie watching?7178K whitepoint in the icc profile instead of 6500K confuses me.Or by saying ''To get balanced whitepoint:'' you mean 6500K?
Also,242 cd/m² is the peak brightness you measured including tweaking TV settings,right?(trying to configure Madvr:p)
 
Does anyone else have issues with the remote on this TV? Since day one, I have always had a problem if I hit the power button too quick on the remote, the TV won't turn on, but then it won't respond to the remote for a few minutes and I have to reach behind the TV and hit the power button on the back for it to turn on. It's quite a PITA with the way I have it mounted on my desk.
 
damien147 said:
...two years later:dead:

I am happy with the settings but I have to ask.
Are these settings good for movie watching?7178K whitepoint in the icc profile instead of 6500K confuses me.Or by saying ''To get balanced whitepoint:'' you mean 6500K?
Also,242 cd/m² is the peak brightness you measured including tweaking TV settings,right?(trying to configure Madvr:p)
Click to expand...

That's just what the colormunki auto named the profile, not sure how it calculated or measured the whitepoint.

I don't really watch movies on my computer but I watch anime occasionally and it's great. Out of the box, the colors are actually pretty darn good, the calibration won't change things massively but i thought i would upload the profile in case someone cares or if they don't have a display calibrator.
 
I see.You did an auto calibration or something like that.
About out of the box settings in this calibration video it says that standard preset is inaccurate but movie preset is good.The thing is that I am using PC mode,so no movie preset for me.:depressed:
I am happy with your settings but it makes me wonder how picture looks like in 6500k if whitepoint is wrong.I am trying Ashun's settings from up here since yesterday to see the difference.
If it happens to try 6500k and it's not big trouble please share your settings and profile.You could benefit from 6500k too even if watching only anime.
Thanks for answering.
 
damien147 said:
I see.You did an auto calibration or something like that.
About out of the box settings in this calibration video it says that standard preset is inaccurate but movie preset is good.The thing is that I am using PC mode,so no movie preset for me.:depressed:
I am happy with your settings but it makes me wonder how picture looks like in 6500k if whitepoint is wrong.I am trying Ashun's settings from up here since yesterday to see the difference.
If it happens to try 6500k and it's not big trouble please share your settings and profile.You could benefit from 6500k too even if watching only anime.
Thanks for answering.
Click to expand...

That's correct. I used displaycal and it has a built in wizard where you click one button and it gives you a display profile that is balanced.
 
I guess everything is correct but you had to choose 6500k whitepoint even for your occasion.It doesn't bother you that you can improve it?
If it ever happens to try it and want to share we are here.:)
 
damien147 said:
I guess everything is correct but you had to choose 6500k whitepoint even for your occasion.It doesn't bother you that you can improve it?
If it ever happens to try it and want to share we are here.:)
Click to expand...

I'll try it when I get home... I can't remember where I even get to set the whitepoint. All I remember is I choose the type of LCD (maybe that is where the setting is) then I get a whitepoint pop up but that i just getting the monitor to neutral, then I click go.

It's something to mess with so I'm always up for more tweaking. If I wasn't, I wouldn't be on this forum =P

edit: just realized this is for the KU6300. I swapped to a KU7500 so I don't have this TV anymore :(

I will have to take your tweak into account for my new monitor though.
 
That's ok.I suppose this kind of setting won't be hard for you to find.
About me I guess I am gonna stick with Ashun's settings in PC mode.
Thank you very much for answering and trying to help.:)
 
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