cybereality
[H]F Junkie
- Joined
- Mar 22, 2008
- Messages
- 8,789
You'd be surprised, the smart remote actually works nice.
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add Horizon Zero Dawn to the list of games that really show what this screen can do. it has HDR and 4k(ish) resolution if you're on a Pro. i always prefer fps over resolution on the Pro. even with that setting, it still looks fantastic. easily the best looking console game i've seen.
if only it were coming to PC......
I'd say it's on the level with Rise of the Tomb Raider in terms of graphics, maybe better in places. Definitely makes the Pro work and has helped alleviate some of my buyer's remorse regarding the trade in I did a couple weeks ago. Obviously would prefer it were on PC as my desktop is vastly more powerful, but if this is what we can expect from future Pro titles, it's a good thing.
these are the settings i'm currently running, and i think they're final.
Game Console mode
Backlight: 10 (set to preference)
Brightness: 47
Contrast: 85
Color: 43 (important; helps tone down the over-saturation Game Console mode applies)
HDMI UHD Color: on
HDMI Black Level: normal (important in conjunction with 'output dynamic range full' in nvidia control panel. keeps blacks from crushing)
Dynamic Contrast: off
Color Tone: Standard (important on my unit to get whites to display correctly; see White Balance below in conduction with this setting)
White Balance 2 point: B-Gain -4 (my unit has a lot of blue tint. even so Standard color tone is necessary.)
Gamma: -1
Color Space: Native
nvidia control panel settings:
3840x2160 60 hz (duh)
desktop color: 32-bit
output color depth: 8 bit
output color format: RGB
output dynamic range: full
contrast and gamma were set using Lagom lcd test. everything else is based on my eyes, so take it for what it's worth. Color Tone: Standard was by far the setting that had the most impact for me. really made everything appear 'correct'. I was using Warm1 which seems to be the universal recommendation on the internet.
also i kept trying to force the Color setting up to get that 'VA vibrancy' but after some hours of use i realized i was over-saturating everything. hell i still may be.
I noticed your settings above.. what made you opt for game console as the mode? ( l left mine on hdmi1/dvi, i also felt switching to "pc" didnt seem as good).. for some reason RGB looked better too
Picture Mode: Game
Backlight 20
Brightness 47
Contrast 91
Sharpness 0
Color 61 (maybe a tad high) (lowered to 54)
Tint G50
HDMI UHD Color set to On
Dynamic Contrast High
Color Tone Warm1
Gamma 0
Color space Native
All other fields are greyed out. I have the latest firmware.
I am having issues on latest firmware (1165) with my PC (nvidia 1080gtx)
if I turn on the PC then the TV, I don't get any signal detected on the TV ever, forcing me to shutdown the PC and turn it back on.
so, I have to turn on the TV first, then the PC to get it working.
Though it could also be an Nvidia issue since the card gets 1-2 updates a month.
I have the 6290.. anyone having issues when using it as a monitor where as you type black text on white background you get a ghost of a cursor a few strokes behind when you stop.. its not that bad and in gaming i'm not seeing an issue (i dont think).. but this has me considering the 43" sony x800D (has anyone had both and can comment on which is better as a "pc monitor")..
I noticed your settings above.. what made you opt for game console as the mode? ( l left mine on hdmi1/dvi, i also felt switching to "pc" didnt seem as good).. for some reason RGB looked better too:
I have an active DP to HDMI (club3d dp 1.2 to hdmi 2.0) cable going to HDMI 1 on the tv (the one that says DVI)..
I tweaked settings as best I could and at this point I have it at 4:4:4 in nvidia and 60hz.
I switched on game mode in the settings, left the input set to HDMI/DVI (switching to PC looked not so great, washed out)..
Picture Mode: Game
Backlight 20
Brightness 47
Contrast 91
Sharpness 0
Color 61 (maybe a tad high) (lowered to 54)
Tint G50
HDMI UHD Color set to On
Dynamic Contrast High
Color Tone Warm1
Gamma 0
Color space Native
All other fields are greyed out. I have the latest firmware.
that sounds like an HDCP handshake issue and is probably due to your hdmi cable. try a different cable if you can. i've had the 6300 paired with a 980Ti (always with most recent drivers) and have never had that issue.
Thanks! I'll give it a shot, it had been working before that's why I wondered why this change suddenly. Do you recommend any special HDMI cable (brand?)
Any chance to have the tv turn on with signal resume?
If you use the tv for PC exclusively, the remote is only used for on/off tbh.
Well, considering the TV is still for sale, and has not been replaced with a new model, I would like to think that they wouldn't abandon it just like that. I'd also like to think this TV is capable of 24p playback but was not enabled just to add a negative bullet point so that people will need to go up to the KS8000 to not have judder. Hopefully it will be fixed in a firmware update if its possible.The way I look at it: This was an entry level TV that Samsung quickly discontinued and liquidated for 2017. Whatever profit they made from it is done (except for the ads you can't disable). There's not much incentive for them to spend additional resources on it.
any idea what the new firmware update does? Samsung just has their generic message that they've used for every update...
probably patched the backdoor the CIA was using to spy on on us.........
No, the quality is not quite as good as a monitor. Especially in terms of the motion blur, you can see it on some websites or scrolling text documents. It's not a deal breaker for me, the TV is still alright, but I probably wouldn't use it for work.How is the KU6300 if one were to use it in a work setting? No gaming on it. Is there motion blur when scrolling up/down in applications or mouse cursor movement ghosting? Or is it perfectly fine and no different than an everyday work monitor?
No, the quality is not quite as good as a monitor. Especially in terms of the motion blur, you can see it on some websites or scrolling text documents. It's not a deal breaker for me, the TV is still alright, but I probably wouldn't use it for work.
I have one of these TV's waiting on me at BB. I bought it to use with my PS4 Pro and Xbox One S. After reading many reviews and comments, however, I'm questioning if I should keep it. It's not a 10 bit panel and doesn't support 'true' HDR. Given that, would it still be an upgrade over my 1080p TV? My understanding is that good quality HDR makes more difference than screen resolution on these 4K sets. Thanks
I have one of these TV's waiting on me at BB. I bought it to use with my PS4 Pro and Xbox One S. After reading many reviews and comments, however, I'm questioning if I should keep it. It's not a 10 bit panel and doesn't support 'true' HDR. Given that, would it still be an upgrade over my 1080p TV? My understanding is that good quality HDR makes more difference than screen resolution on these 4K sets. Thanks
I have one of these TV's waiting on me at BB. I bought it to use with my PS4 Pro and Xbox One S. After reading many reviews and comments, however, I'm questioning if I should keep it. It's not a 10 bit panel and doesn't support 'true' HDR. Given that, would it still be an upgrade over my 1080p TV? My understanding is that good quality HDR makes more difference than screen resolution on these 4K sets. Thanks
spend 10 minutes playing Horizon Zero Dawn on the PS4 Pro and this set. you will instantly lose any buyer's remorse...
This. After playing the game on this set, going over to my girlfriend's place and playing it on her significantly larger 1080P set (I think it's a 55") from the couch is a huge, huge step down from this from about 3 feet back with even "fake" HDR at 4K.
the 6290, I'm not sure that a better value in the 40" 4K segment exists right now.