Samsung UN40KU6300 40-Inch 4K

i like to run my 6300 in Game mode full time. it automatically boots in PC mode whenever i shut down or restart. is there a way to get it to boot into Game mode?

Change the name/type of the input you use for your PC to "game console" and it should stick.
 
I bought the 70" version of the KU6300 for my new-to-me house. Decided to hook my PC directly up to it and try out some gaming. The input lag is minimal in PC mode with 4:4:4 chroma. I really don't notice any lag. The backlight uniformity is good. It's much much better compared to the curved versions. Gaming in 4K on this display with the new speaker/receiver setup is a truly wonderful experience.

IMNvs9e.jpg
Amazing looking setup, albeit basic.
 
I've read the whole thread and I might missed or skipped something.

  1. Do I need a HDMI 2.0 cable to be able to do PC Mode 4:4:4 chroma?

  2. How to PC mode? Is it simply renaming or choosing the icon PC on the HDMI1/DVI to PC? Are there any option like special viewing mode or anything else? How can I know that I am on PC mode?

  3. The native resolution in my nvidia control panel is 3,840 x 2,160. Is this the PC mode? because I tried changing it to 4096x2160 and suddenly game mode becomes available (grayed-out before).

  4. Right now I'm on 4096x2160 reso, game mode, sharpness 0 but I still find the text is kinda hard to read especially on browser and on this forum.

  5. Can you guys share your picture settings on PC mode and console mode? I'm still finding the right balance of colors on this one especially on PC.

  6. What's your distance when you're on PC mode?


Thanks in advance!
 
1. Yes at 4k60, anything lower than 4K30, no.
2. Set HDMI channel to PC mode (change name). You can change some settings still, but most of it is disabled so you don't have input lag due to processing.
3. 3840x2160 is indeed 4K. 4096 is only available for some blu-rays and video sources with a bit more resolution, but your TV only has 3840x2160 physical pixels.
4. I'd recommend switching back to 3840. 4096 won't give you 4:4:4 (hence why Game Mode becomes available).
5. I use backlight at 4 (I like a dim screen as I'm in darkness much of the time) and dynamic contrast is off.
6. I sit about 20 inches away from the 40" 6290.
 
What all is available via the service menu on this (and by extension the 6290 I have) and is it worth getting a "standard" Samsung remote for it specifically for that purpose, since I've been lead to believe there's no way to access it with the included remote. If it is worthwhile, are there specific models of remote I should be looking for? Will a standard universal be enough, or...?
 
I've read the whole thread and I might missed or skipped something.

  1. Do I need a HDMI 2.0 cable to be able to do PC Mode 4:4:4 chroma?

  2. How to PC mode? Is it simply renaming or choosing the icon PC on the HDMI1/DVI to PC? Are there any option like special viewing mode or anything else? How can I know that I am on PC mode?

  3. The native resolution in my nvidia control panel is 3,840 x 2,160. Is this the PC mode? because I tried changing it to 4096x2160 and suddenly game mode becomes available (grayed-out before).

  4. Right now I'm on 4096x2160 reso, game mode, sharpness 0 but I still find the text is kinda hard to read especially on browser and on this forum.

  5. Can you guys share your picture settings on PC mode and console mode? I'm still finding the right balance of colors on this one especially on PC.

  6. What's your distance when you're on PC mode?

Thanks in advance!

1. yes. and note, not all hdmi cables claiming to be 2.0 (18gbps) are. a few people in this thread could not get 4:4:4 and/or 60hz at first but simply switching to a different cable resolved their problems
2. just select "PC" for HDMI 1. make sure you are on HDMI 1 as it is the only HDMI input that offers 4:4:4 60hz and HDR. you also have to go into settings and turn on HDMI UHD Color for HDMI 1. if you set your GPU control panel to output "full" color range you will also need to set the HDMI Black Level setting to "normal". if you use "limited" you need to set the TV to "low". if you press the enter/ok center circle button on the remote a banner will appear across the top of your screen displaying the current connection info (resolution, hz, HDR if playing HDR content, ect)
3. you will likely run into problems with 4096x2160. the universal resolution for "4k" is actually 3840x2160. use that and 60hz.
4. if you use "game mode" make sure sharpness is 0. if you use PC mode make sure it is 50. there is a bug in the PC setting that requires sharpness to be 50 to actually get 0.
5. i have backlight maxed out (PWM kicks in at 10 or less). i'm using an ICC profile and settings posted somewhere in this thread by another user. in game mode is sometimes turn on dynamic contrast based on the game. some look very good with it on high. most of the time it is off though.
6. i sit about 2.5 feet away
 
That was me :)

Here it is again in case it helps - https://1drv.ms/u/s!Al0wGKLyk00Nn8t6qYKW_1bUy23O0Q

i'm actually using one from the first page of this thread. i tried yours too but prefer backlight at 20 so the other seems to work better for me. nice to have several of these available to compare though.


I did a custom calibration using my Colormunki Display. If you want to try it, here's the settings:

To get balanced whitepoint:

Backlight - 20
Brightness - 44
Contrast - 100
ColorTone - Warm2
Gamma - 0

ICC profile:
ICC Profile Samsung - SAMSUNG
 
Even though I no longer have this screen, just want to point out that icc profiles are useless unless they are specific to your screen, not your display model i.e. you need one generated on that specific screen using a calorimeter for it to be of any value.
 
Even though I no longer have this screen, just want to point out that icc profiles are useless unless they are specific to your screen, not your display model i.e. you need one generated on that specific screen using a calorimeter for it to be of any value.

Yes and no. With current manufacturing, you are correct: no 2 screens are the same and if you need perfectly accurate colors, yes, you need to ICC each specific panel.

However, considering how off these panels tend to ship as far as color accuracy is concerned, assuming they don't deviate like crazy from the reference, an ICC can improve your color reproduction to a certain extent - knowing you'll never get 100% accuracy unless the specific panel is measured.

Your mileage may vary here, but a blanket statement of this being useless is just as incorrect as saying a specific ICC is perfect for all panels.

Just my 2 cents :)
 
Just my 2 cents
This is totally unrelated, but...

Have you ever noticed that when we want to know someone's opinion on a matter, we say "penny for your thoughts", but when we want to share our own opinions, we say "here's my 2 cents"?
We value our own opinions twice as much as others.
 
Service Menu
Using a Samsung normal remote: television is in Standby mode (screen is Off), Mute, 1, 8, 2, Power
Using a universal remote: television is in On mode (screen is On), Info, Factory


*** I used a Logitech Harmony remote ***
 
Here are some of the menus you can find in there:
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v358/handbook/Samsung UHD TV/00toplevel_zpsrqucrp4e.jpeg
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v358/handbook/Samsung UHD TV/01option_zps2btnklmv.jpeg
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v358/handbook/Samsung UHD TV/02option_zpsegkebmjb.jpeg
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v358/handbook/Samsung UHD TV/03control_zpsmdelzj36.jpeg
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v358/handbook/Samsung UHD TV/04edid_zpsafsezi59.jpeg
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v358/handbook/Samsung UHD TV/05option_zpsieaj3tpj.jpeg
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v358/handbook/Samsung UHD TV/3ports_zpskfhxf4zn.jpeg
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v358/handbook/Samsung UHD TV/06otn_zpsmh6jepse.jpeg
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v358/handbook/Samsung UHD TV/07sound_zpsks7ymkhq.jpeg
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v358/handbook/Samsung UHD TV/08svc_zpsucfjnoos.jpeg
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v358/handbook/Samsung UHD TV/09svc_zps9jgvvqzu.jpeg
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v358/handbook/Samsung UHD TV/10svc_zpsg0ussu9e.jpeg
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v358/handbook/Samsung UHD TV/11debug_zpshf6ivzfd.jpeg
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v358/handbook/Samsung UHD TV/12adcwb_zpscsfuzgzu.jpg
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v358/handbook/Samsung UHD TV/13spi_zpsf7qrhodt.jpg
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v358/handbook/Samsung UHD TV/14spigain_zpstw8vkt0u.jpg
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v358/handbook/Samsung UHD TV/15adcwbresults_zpsjybumofw.jpg
 
This is totally unrelated, but...

Have you ever noticed that when we want to know someone's opinion on a matter, we say "penny for your thoughts", but when we want to share our own opinions, we say "here's my 2 cents"?
We value our own opinions twice as much as others.

That is super interesting. Thank you for sharing... your 1 cent :D
I've actually never heard the expression "penny for your thoughts", only "food" for thought. I may look into this though, it certainly reveals some devaluation of others' opinions.
 
i like to run my 6300 in Game mode full time. it automatically boots in PC mode whenever i shut down or restart. is there a way to get it to boot into Game mode?

Change the name/type of the input you use for your PC to "game console" and it should stick.

thanks man, i'll give this a try.

now that i'm at my computer i see what you are suggesting. my problem is that i have to change the name/type ('Edit Device Type') back to Game Console every time i restart my computer. logic tells me that if i'm the only one having this problem, then i'm probably doing something wrong. but it's not rocket science and this isn't my first foray into using a TV as a monitor :D. anyone else have this problem?
 
This is totally unrelated, but...

Have you ever noticed that when we want to know someone's opinion on a matter, we say "penny for your thoughts", but when we want to share our own opinions, we say "here's my 2 cents"?
We value our own opinions twice as much as others.

Or they could both just be two expressions that aren't related and your over thinking it? Lol.
 
Even though I no longer have this screen, just want to point out that icc profiles are useless unless they are specific to your screen, not your display model i.e. you need one generated on that specific screen using a calorimeter for it to be of any value.

i wouldn't say there is no "value". i can load 5 profiles and pick the one that looks best to me for daily (non professional) use. i can without question say that the profile i'm using looks better than the default screen. now if you were doing delicate work where color accuracy was vital, i would agree completely.
 
Service Menu
Using a Samsung normal remote: television is in Standby mode (screen is Off), Mute, 1, 8, 2, Power
Using a universal remote: television is in On mode (screen is On), Info, Factory


*** I used a Logitech Harmony remote ***

Thank you very much for this and the pictures. Hadn't considered using a universal remote.
 
One of the things that annoys me about the KU6300 is the screen coating. It's very reflective. I put up block out blinds in conjunction with my regular blinds.

No block out:
Yzio9g3.jpg

s7axZXv.jpg


Block out:
Xec0gQf.jpg

45NYqPG.jpg


This was on a very sunny day. It helps cut down on the glare quite a bit. Not 100% removed, but it is far less annoying.
 
Is it just me or has update 1162 been awful? It takes about 4-7 seconds for the display to come on from standby now and glitches while it comes on. Titles on the YouTube app often become corrupted and unreadable until hard rebooting the TV, and there's an "Exit" tip that never goes away when watching YouTube videos. I didn't have any of these issues on the last update.
 
i picked up a PS4 Pro a couple of days ago. had a release Xbone and PS4 collecting dust. gamestop currently has a $50 bonus credit for console trade-ins so i walked out the door with the Pro for $70 out of pocket.

i had around 20 hours in Nioh on the regular PS4 and have put about 10 on the Pro. the game doesn't have HDR but does have resolution scaling. it looks noticeably better on the Pro. everything is much clearer and "clean" for lack of a better term. the colors aren't noticeably better. i wish they would have used HDR. i fired up FF15 just to check it out. it was much better as well but didn't look as good as Nioh. i've read (here and in Pro reviews) that Ratchet and Clank is the best demo for the Pro. gonna try it and Infamous Second Son.
 
Hey guys, where can I get one of these for a low-ish price? I've seen people mention prices in the 300's several times throughout the thread, but they seem to be several hundred more pretty much everywhere at the moment.

I'd like to get my hand on a 40" KU6300 or KU6290 for under $399 max, or under $350 preferred. Is this possible anywhere?

Newegg currently has the 6290 for $379 plus you get a $100 Newegg gift card

https://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=9SIA1CZ5BN0478&Tpk=9SIA1CZ5BN0478
 
That's a decent deal. Personally, I'd say DO NOT pay more than $300 for this TV at 40". Any more money and it's simply not worth it considering the HDR stuff that'll soon come in the pipeline. The only reason why I bought it was because it was affordable for what it offers, making it a decent deal at $300 max, and will last a couple years until HDR is fully formalized and figured out on mid-low range (non-budget) TVs.
 
Heyas! I recently bought this TV for multi-purpose use, but largely for my PC and PC gaming because it's a pretty solid TV all around. While I do love the picture, I've noticed a MASSIVE issue with this thing. And that is that the text, even in games, is down right murder on the eyes. It's got like a slight distortion/fuzz to it that I can't seem to fix through sharpness (It's in HDMI 1 PC mode with UHD on. Sharpness at 50, which from my understanding is supposed to be off. Though moving it doesn't help either). I've tried everything else I can imagine and have read without much luck (I am using HDMI 2.0 cables, even tried different ones.). It does seems to be the TV itself, as it's also present outside of PC use. (Including in the menu and no signal screens) Now my question is... Is this a problem with this TV and/or 4k TVs in general? Or is something up with this set? I'm sure I'm going to have to return it, so I'm just looking for input on whether this was just a bad on arrival TV or if I should look into a different make/model? Thanks in advance!
 
Heyas! I recently bought this TV for multi-purpose use, but largely for my PC and PC gaming because it's a pretty solid TV all around. While I do love the picture, I've noticed a MASSIVE issue with this thing. And that is that the text, even in games, is down right murder on the eyes. It's got like a slight distortion/fuzz to it that I can't seem to fix through sharpness (It's in HDMI 1 PC mode with UHD on. Sharpness at 50, which from my understanding is supposed to be off. Though moving it doesn't help either). I've tried everything else I can imagine and have read without much luck (I am using HDMI 2.0 cables, even tried different ones.). It does seems to be the TV itself, as it's also present outside of PC use. (Including in the menu and no signal screens) Now my question is... Is this a problem with this TV and/or 4k TVs in general? Or is something up with this set? I'm sure I'm going to have to return it, so I'm just looking for input on whether this was just a bad on arrival TV or if I should look into a different make/model? Thanks in advance!

Assuming you're using Windows, run the ClearType tuning utility - your OS is probably set to use RGB subpixel antialiasing right now, while this TV has a BGR subpixel layout. Also, I'd recommend using this utility to fix the awful looking DPI scaling in some programs if you're using Windows 10.
 
if the TV menu text has the same problem, sounds like you have a bad set. make sure you are on 60hz. 30hz caused all kinds of crazy problems on mine. and make sure you are on 3840x2160 and not 4096x2160.
 
Hey guys first post here. Ive read through most of this thread. I have a un40ku6290 i got on black friday. Couple things i wanted to say here. First i just updated to 1165 via usb. I downloaded the firmware on samsungs support site and updated it. Seems to run smooth! So might want to try that out! The other thing i was wondering is if anybody heard anything rattling around inside your tv when you were setting it up. It sounded like something was loose in my tv. Its kind of driving me nutz to think something is loose inside my tv. Im on the verge of opening it up and taking a look in there! It works great though and i would prefer not to do that haha.
 
The other thing i was wondering is if anybody heard anything rattling around inside your tv when you were setting it up. It sounded like something was loose in my tv. Its kind of driving me nutz to think something is loose inside my tv. Im on the verge of opening it up and taking a look in there! It works great though and i would prefer not to do that haha.

VESA mounting nuts rattling around? Whatever it is it's probably not a huge deal if everything is working alright. Could just be a loose cable hitting the enclosure
 
Can you guys share your picture settings on PC mode and console mode? I'm still finding the right balance of colors on this one especially on PC.

these are the settings i'm currently running, and i think they're final.

Game Console mode
Backlight: 10 (set to preference)
Brightness: 47
Contrast: 85
Color: 43 (important; helps tone down the over-saturation Game Console mode applies)
HDMI UHD Color: on
HDMI Black Level: normal (important in conjunction with 'output dynamic range full' in nvidia control panel. keeps blacks from crushing)
Dynamic Contrast: off
Color Tone: Standard (important on my unit to get whites to display correctly; see White Balance below in conduction with this setting)
White Balance 2 point: B-Gain -4 (my unit has a lot of blue tint. even so Standard color tone is necessary.)
Gamma: -1
Color Space: Native

nvidia control panel settings:
3840x2160 60 hz (duh)
desktop color: 32-bit
output color depth: 8 bit
output color format: RGB
output dynamic range: full

contrast and gamma were set using Lagom lcd test. everything else is based on my eyes, so take it for what it's worth. Color Tone: Standard was by far the setting that had the most impact for me. really made everything appear 'correct'. I was using Warm1 which seems to be the universal recommendation on the internet.

also i kept trying to force the Color setting up to get that 'VA vibrancy' but after some hours of use i realized i was over-saturating everything. hell i still may be.
 
Assuming you're using Windows, run the ClearType tuning utility - your OS is probably set to use RGB subpixel antialiasing right now, while this TV has a BGR subpixel layout. Also, I'd recommend using this utility to fix the awful looking DPI scaling in some programs if you're using Windows 10.

Man that ClearType utility sucks. I've run it a few times and it always ends up looking fine in the utility and then like shit in Windows. Is there a way to just manually set it to use the correct BGR pixel layout?
 
I just ordered the 6290 version of the 40" samsung.. (appears it has the same hdr10, but not full gamut as the 6300)..

I have a 1080 gtx evga card.. what type of cable is everyone using to go displayport to hdmi for that to push 4k at 60hz? Or do you need a $30 adapter like this? i was originally thinking something like this ?
 
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I just ordered the 6290 version of the 40" samsung.. (appears it has the same hdr10, but not full gamut as the 6300)..

I have a 1080 gtx evga card.. what type of cable is everyone using to go displayport to hdmi for that to push 4k at 60hz? Or do you need a $30 adapter like this? i was originally thinking something like this ?

you just need a high speed hdmi cable. the 1080 fully supports hdmi 2.0. the Amazon "basic" hdmi cables work great.

i have a 980ti and get 4k@60hz with 4:4:4 using HDMI.
 
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you just need a high speed hdmi cable. the 1080 fully supports hdmi 2.0. the Amazon "basic" hdmi cables work great.

i have a 980ti and get 4k@60hz with 4:4:4 using HDMI.

I'm referring to DP to HDMI, not a straight HDMI.. i cant use the HDMI off the card because i use it for oculus rift.. so I thought i had to order an active DP to HDMI for around $30 to make it work at 4k60
 
Man that ClearType utility sucks. I've run it a few times and it always ends up looking fine in the utility and then like shit in Windows. Is there a way to just manually set it to use the correct BGR pixel layout?

HKEY_LOCAL_MACHINE\SOFTWARE\Microsoft\Avalon.Graphics\<displayName>\PixelStructure

0 - none
1 - RGB
2 - BGR

Not everything respects the settings. Metro apps never use cleartype, etc.
 
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I'm referring to DP to HDMI, not a straight HDMI.. i cant use the HDMI off the card because i use it for oculus rift.. so I thought i had to order an active DP to HDMI for around $30 to make it work at 4k60

ah, i see. i haven't personally used one but have seen several people on here discuss them. one thing is certain, DP adapters are not all created equal. seems most people were having success with the Club3d adapter on Amazon. just make sure you get an "active" one as the "passive" ones do not work.
 
Just ordered the 40inch ku6300 which is to arrive around next thursday and will be connected to zotac amp edition 1070 through hdmi.Hoping it comes sooner.Is there any regular samsung remote that works with this tv instead of being stuck with the smart remote?
 
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