Samsung S27B970

Gatehouse

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Apr 22, 2012
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If you are still not far away from you computer, you may try this

Calibrator Device: i1 Display Pro
White Point: 0.3127, 0.3290 (Daylight 6506K)
Brightness: 70 or 80cd/m2
Balck point: General values
Gamut Mapping: sRGB
Gamut Curve: sRGB ( Alter the values from LUT to sRGB)
 

Murzilka

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There is no support of i1 Display 2 in this series. I guess that you calibration device is i1 Display Pro.
It is supported. I can choose which calibrator to use: the eye one display or eye1 pro, in the beginning of the calibration. It even supports the eizo cx1 calibrator:D I haven't tried it yet it but it is listed as an option.
 

Murzilka

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If you are still not far away from you computer, you may try this

Calibrator Device: i1 Display Pro
White Point: 0.3127, 0.3290 (Daylight 6506K)
Brightness: 70 or 80cd/m2
Balck point: General values
Gamut Mapping: sRGB
Gamut Curve: sRGB ( Alter the values from LUT to sRGB)

Sorry. What for? Those are the settings I use for calibration except for the brightness level. Which I've set to 200cd/m2 for gaming purposes.
 

Gatehouse

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It is supported. I can choose which calibrator to use: the eye one display or eye1 pro, in the beginning of the calibration. It even supports the eizo cx1 calibrator:D I haven't tried it yet it but it is listed as an option.


I would say with 99.9% certainty that you need to replace your calibration device.
 

Gatehouse

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Sorry. What for? Those are the settings I use for calibration except for the brightness level. Which I've set to 200cd/m2 for gaming purposes.

70-80cd/m2 is enough. please note that brightness level is in close relation to backlight lifetime.
 

Hardcore2012

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That isn't really 'enough' for viewing in daylight on a glossy monitor. And with LED backlights they generally have a long enough useful life even at 100% brightness. It is up to the person, their preferences and lighting conditions to dictate the brightness. If he is comfortable using 200 cd/m2 for gaming then good for him.
 

Murzilka

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70-80cd/m2 is enough. please note that brightness level is in close relation to backlight lifetime.
I am not finished with the calibration yet. I will probably lower the luminance, but 80cd\m2 that would be too low for this display and especially gaming. So far I am trying to get rid of the red tint. I just run 7x7 homogenity calibration and it got so much worse that when you move a window down the display especially to the lower left corner it becomes RED :D
 

NCX

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The id2 is not meant to be used with led backlit displays and the colour temperature is typically out by 500-600k. 6500k on the i1d2=6000k when measured with an accurate meter. If you can afford a 1200$ display, surely you can afford a proper colorimeter.

And 460:1 is horrible, most semi accurate TN panels will look better. The colours wont pop and the blacks will be very greyish in a bright room.
 

Namelessme

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460:1 does seem pretty horrible, but I think he also said 680:1 was achievable during calibration?

What's the avg. contrast of most IPS panels nowadays, somewhere around 700-900:1?

I never quite understood why there are varying static contrast levels amongst the same exact panels... like why some 27B970s potentially may be 600:1, while others 800:1, etc.
Or at least I've seen varying contrast levels like that from other manufacturers.

Is 1000:1 the highest contrast any IPS screen currently gets? And I expect very few actually hit that mark.
 

Murzilka

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The id2 is not meant to be used with led backlit displays and the colour temperature is typically out by 500-600k. 6500k on the i1d2=6000k when measured with an accurate meter. If you can afford a 1200$ display, surely you can afford a proper colorimeter.

And 460:1 is horrible, most semi accurate TN panels will look better. The colours wont pop and the blacks will be very greyish in a bright room.

I just did a calibration run which gave me 800:1 of contrast. Still learning how to use this software. Looks like I need to go back in target options to have low black point. Like select low black point then select color temperature then select gamma then go back to the black level selection and only then the software will target the lowest black point possible, otherwise it will default to 0.4 regardless your selection.
The colors do pop but this tint, ruins all the fun.
 

NCX

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You need to buy an i1dp or you have just thrown out 1200 duckets on something you cant use properly. You can try calibrating it as many times as you want, but you are using an inaccurate and incompatible meter....
 

Murzilka

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You need to buy an i1dp or you have just thrown out 1200 duckets on something you cant use properly. You can try calibrating it as many times as you want, but you are using an inaccurate and incompatible meter....

Man, the i1d2 is good. Don't let the marketing guys fool you ;)
I can make pictures of the lagom test of the black level - stock option and calibrated with i1d2. You just see it with your eyes - no need for fancy calibrators to verify that.
If this monitor couldn't be calibrated using that device - it wouldn't be supported by the software in the first place )
 

tk-don

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Does it really matter whether or not the factory calibration is good? You're going to want to abuse the hardware calibration feature on this monitor anyway, right? Or am I missing something here?
Well, that's completely irrelevant. Claiming that a monitor is factory calibrated and enclosing fake proof of calibration is fraud. It's impressive that Samsung cannot even be bothered at a $1200 price point, if this is really true. With a clear, and very distinct tint problem as shown in Murzilka's picture, it doesn't really look like a product aimed at professionals if Samsung allows that sort of deviation. If it is possible to perform some sort of compensation that works, it will still result in a loss of tonal color values in that region.

I'm not trying to bash or blame anyone at all, but remember that this is $1200. Not $800. The extra $400 should bring more to the table than third-party access to the monitor LUT.
 

Gatehouse

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Apr 22, 2012
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That isn't really 'enough' for viewing in daylight on a glossy monitor. And with LED backlights they generally have a long enough useful life even at 100% brightness. It is up to the person, their preferences and lighting conditions to dictate the brightness. If he is comfortable using 200 cd/m2 for gaming then good for him.

Look up the LTM270DL02 and you will have relevant information about its backlight lifetime =30000 hours, which is roughly 30%-40% less of typical ccfl backlight lifetime.( sRGB LM240WU7 for 50000 hours, P-IPS WCG LM240WU4 for 45000 hours)
 

Gatehouse

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I just did a calibration run which gave me 800:1 of contrast. Still learning how to use this software. Looks like I need to go back in target options to have low black point. Like select low black point then select color temperature then select gamma then go back to the black level selection and only then the software will target the lowest black point possible, otherwise it will default to 0.4 regardless your selection.
The colors do pop but this tint, ruins all the fun.

You can either choose grayscale priority or contrast priority. It's up to you.
 

Hardcore2012

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Look up the LTM270DL02 and you will have relevant information about its backlight lifetime =30000 hours, which is roughly 30%-40% less of typical ccfl backlight lifetime.( sRGB LM240WU7 for 50000 hours, P-IPS WCG LM240WU4 for 45000 hours)

That doesn't tell you about the relative impact of brightness on operating lifetime. It doesn't change how ridiculous it is to suggest that you should run this kind of monitor at 70-80cd/m2 (which is far too low unless you live in a dark cave or are highly photosensitive) or suffer massive detriment to the backlight lifespan. If you have your monitor on 24/7 then it would be wise to try to control brightness but for energy efficiency purposes as much as lifetime preservation. Let people enjoy the glorious vibrant colours of the SB970 without suffering from overpowering reflections and a generally dull experience for the sake of x extra hours of 'lifetime' (which in this case is 50% of maximum brightness and not some sort of sudden death).
 

Megalith

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Is this monitor going to be sold by all the usuals (Amazon, Best Buy, etc.)?

No way in hell I'm buying from Newegg.
 

Murzilka

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I've returned the display due to intolerable red tint after hardware calibration and the left side being darker than the right side. Hope Samsung will accept it.
 

arabesc

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Murzilka, did you see the display in the gallery before purchase? Is it possible to see the tint there?
 
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Murzilka

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arabesc
Yes I did examine it before byuing of course. But the illumination was so bright and the were so many reflections on the screen that I only noticed it when I got home and set up the monitor on the table.
I opened a page on the internet that had gray bars on the sides and noticed the difference in color between the left and the right bars. I thought they changed the design, and I thoght it was pretty ugly. Because different colors on the opposite sides dont really stack together well... Especially different gray patterns Then I opened a .doc file with white background and noticed that the white color on the left was rather grey than white....
Then I tried to hardware calibrate it and absolutely crazy red tint appeared at the bottom of the screen.
 

Hydq

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Jun 13, 2012
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I wanna see a good Review on this monitor before if im buying it! I know NCIX did a review but i wanna see more of the screen:) Just two videos out of this screen ok?S
 

Oled

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This monitor is ridicolous sexy!

ff922855cc32.jpg
 

Gatehouse

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Yes, I tried the uniformity function but only 5x5, not the 7x7, in hope that it will correct the tint, but unfortunately it did nothing to it.
Here is my current profile, I think it is good:
http://www.2shared.com/file/3Jzax4Gf/newhomo.html
The profile is stored in the monitor hardware, so windows still uses the stansart sRGB profile, but I found the profile file that corresponds to the name of the hardware generated profile, and that is the one I uploaded.

From the recent information I gather, all things indicate that SB970 is not suitable for professionals.
 
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Murzilka

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From the recent information I gather, all things indicate that SB970 is not suitable for professionals.
Yeah I would say it's rather a multimedia display with advanced features. But it is also suited for professional color work. I think. Especially in no-light environment.
Which is more than OK by me.:cool:
 

burningrave101

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Regardless of the factory calibration this thing is overpriced and probably the reason TigerDirect is taking pre-orders at $999.99. The only way I'd pay $1200 for a 27" is if it had a retina display. Better off just getting an Apple Cinema or Thunderbolt display for <$1000 than this.
 

the_real_7

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So far the reviews on new egg look pleaseant on this screen , not that I trust new egg lately , but I'm wait and see the next reviews that pop up
 

Namelessme

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If I had that much money to spend, I'd definitely wait for some proper reviews to come out (prad). No way would I spend $1000+ based on a handful of user reviews.

Keep in mind prices should come down on it too, at least a little bit. ACD would be its direct competition, so you'd want to see some head to head comparisons first.
 

Hydq

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Any better Reviews of this monitor or has anyone else buyed it yet???
 

the_real_7

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thats the problem why no one has, i don't think anyone wants to take a chance on spending 1200 from new-egg with a 15% percent return policy ouch . . .:eek:
 

netjack

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May 11, 2005
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received the unit and can't figure out why when you power it on the immediate on-screen calibration flickers and changes the color to something warmer! any clue?
 

arabesc

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Jul 8, 2012
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received the unit and can't figure out why when you power it on the immediate on-screen calibration flickers and changes the color to something warmer! any clue?
It's a normal behaviour. The monitor loads its calibration data in a such way.
Please test the sleep mode of your item when it's connected via the DisplayPort, as described here.
 
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