Samsung 226BW 22": 3000:1 Contrast, 2ms response time

is this issue only known to the xxxBW models of Samsung's monitors or is it on other models as well?

(not reading through 103 pages of posts...)
 
I guess when the forums were down my post got deleted...but I picked this monitor up last week and got the "S" panel. Sure there is back light bleeding but it's not noticeable when doing anything. The only time I do notice it is when windows is starting up. And about the bad viewing angles...this monitor sits right in front of me so I see the colors fine. Even far off to the sides they look fine. The only time I see a real significant difference is when looking at it from above going down, but how often am I going to do that? Probably never.
 
You obviously haven't been reading this thread. The letters refer to who made the panel - not where it was made. My A panel was also made in China.

well i quess your one of the lucky ones to have an A panel ...
i have and S panel and i don't see any of the issues associated with this one....
 
Don't double post if you don't wanna get analy raped, and learn to quote.

analy raped, with a double fisted dildo.
 
Just Bought my 226BW 3 hours ago. The Service panel doesn't state what type of panel it is yet in the back it says it's a A panel

Heres what the label looks like: (No camera right now)

Model: (Korean here) 226BW A
Model Code: 3rbui35uwefguh4356ujsdgkjk346 (Not actual code)

It was made in China
It was Made in May 2007


It has some backlight bleed and no dead pixels/stuck pixels
 
svgtom said:
You obviously haven't been reading this thread. The letters refer to who made the panel - not where it was made. My A panel was also made in China.

S = Samsung
A = AU Optronics
C = Chimei as well as another manufacturer that begins with C but whose name escapes me at the moment.
Click to expand...

Not so sure about that. Behardware did some tests and the A panel wasn't conforming to expectations of a typical AU Optronics panel, despite guesses that A meant AU Optronics.

I have an A panel, and I loaded Behardware's color profile for it. There is a disappointing backlight bleed (huge) on the left side that is the shape of a large triangle. There is also some light bleed from the top and bottom borders. No dead pixels or anything, colors seem accurate with the calibration, but I guess the A panel can't have as high a contrast/brightness as the S panel while still maintaining accurate colors. It is the huge left side backlight bleed that is so bothersome though. I should have waited a few more months to guarantee myself an S panel as that is what Samsung says they are shipping to retailers now. No more A or C panels.
 
I bought one from Staples the other day that was a C panel.

It had no dead pixels, but some noticable backlight bleed.

I grew happy with it, but then I took it back within the 14 day return policy and took my chances and ordered one from NEWEGG

Got an "s" panel!!!
YAY!!!

There truly is a difference - still some very slight backlight bleed, but not much.
 
here a pic of my back panel ...does anyone read chinese?
original.jpg
 
peTeMelster said:
Not so sure about that. Behardware did some tests and the A panel wasn't conforming to expectations of a typical AU Optronics panel, despite guesses that A meant AU Optronics.

I have an A panel, and I loaded Behardware's color profile for it. There is a disappointing backlight bleed (huge) on the left side that is the shape of a large triangle.
Click to expand...

Actually, what they said was:

Such a depth in black is typical of Samsung, and we’ve never had an AU Optronics panel capable of such a black. This leads us to believe that Samsung sub-contracted out to AUO and CMO, however in providing them with their own components. The « A » panel which is supposedly an AUO does not look like one of this manufacturer’s classic products, nor does it have its performance.
Click to expand...
Meaning it's better than a typical AUO panel. There is a lot of speculation that the difference in quality between the panels is a result of the different manufacturing processes since they may all be using the same components. My A panel also has siginificant backlight bleed but it not noticeable under normal use.
 
I have been using Gunner1's Spyder2 prfiles with WinXP Pro and they have been great. I'm thinking of going to a dual boot with Vista x64. Does anyone know if the same profiles will work in Vista x64?

Thanks,
URHystory
 
svgtom said:
Actually, what they said was:


Meaning it's better than a typical AUO panel. There is a lot of speculation that the difference in quality between the panels is a result of the different manufacturing processes since they may all be using the same components. My A panel also has siginificant backlight bleed but it not noticeable under normal use.
Click to expand...

You said A stood for AU Optronics, I said that may not be the case. Your quoting of BeHardware's claims is essentially no different that what I've already said. I said BeHardware claims the A panel is not conforming to typical AU Optronics panel characteristics/expectations. You're just repeating what I've already stated.

In the end, it still doesn't prove A means AU Optronics, nor does it disprove it. Therefore, A doesn't necessarily mean AU Optronics.
 
I thought about buying this monitor but with all the problems I decided NOT TO PURCHASE it.
Instead I saved up and bought a 24 inch lcd the LG246 WPBN and I am very glad that I did, this monitor is great it has a PMVA panel so no problems with viewing angles like the samsungs TN panel.

do yourself a favor, skip the 22's and get an LG 24 inch panel instead you wont be sorry.
 
conghelach said:
I thought about buying this monitor but with all the problems I decided NOT TO PURCHASE it.
Instead I saved up and bought a 24 inch lcd the LG246 WPBN and I am very glad that I did, this monitor is great it has a PMVA panel so no problems with viewing angles like the samsungs TN panel.

do yourself a favor, skip the 22's and get an LG 24 inch panel instead you wont be sorry.
Click to expand...

In my house we don't speak the words LG as we know it it really an acronym for "Low Grade";)
 
Yeah, if I were going for a 24" I definitely wouldn't get the LG. It would be between the Dell 2407-HC and the BenQ FP241W(Z), although each has their problems too, which is the whole reason I decided to skip 24" and go for 22" for now (half the price) until the 24" and up fix their problems.
 
i don't know what it is with these panels, but i'm taking back my 4th 226BW. had all 3 panels and they've all had some sort of defect. i can't say i'm not annoyed. best i can do is get store credit, but thats ok because i figure i'll just wait until the 226CW comes out later this month.

how does it figure that my fiancee gets a 931BW and has a flawless one first shot where i'm taking back my 5th monitor?? tried the HP2207 too....so samsung #4 and monitor #5. AARRGG!!

don't mind my rant. LCD has not been nice to me and i'm now liking the extra screen area and the sharper image so i just want to get one that works right and move on.
 
the backlight bleed was disturbingly bad and i noticed the colour was slightly less than that of the 226BW and the contrast wasn't as good either. this is comparing to even the crap C panel.
 
However, the HP W2207 does look a look more vibrant than the Samsung 226BW when they are placed next to each other. The colors seem to pop more on the HP, because of its glossy screen. It was the only monitor that really stood out from the pack in the stores. Yet, like mentioned, it has horrible blacklight bleed. More noticeable than even the terrible blacklight bleed of the Samsung 226BW A panel. I believe the Samsung has more accurate colors too, even if subjectively, they don't look as nice.
 
maybe i had a real dud HP, but the colours were far from more vibrant. the glossy coating was nice, but the range of colour was definitely less.

also, i'm using a 226BW A panel on my computer. it has virtually no backlight bleed and is the best yet for that out of the 5 i've tried. the reason i'm taking it back is that the image keeps shifting to the lower right and jumping back up and its driving me up the wall. i figure i might as well get store credit and hold out for the 226CW. no reason not to i figure.
 
You really need to put the HP next to the Samsung. The glossy screen helps make the colors on the HP "pop." However, I still choose the Samsung over the HP for other characteristics, including accurate colors. It just doesn't have the "bling" factor of the HP.

I also have an A panel, and it has huge backlight bleed, but at least its spread out over a wide area (still noticeable though), and not concentrated into thin bands like on the HP.
 
I dunno, it's kind of silly to release a screen that's only .4" smaller. I notice it says 5ms instead of 2ms, so maybe that overdrive thing is disabled?
 
aggressor said:
I dunno, it's kind of silly to release a screen that's only .4" smaller. I notice it says 5ms instead of 2ms, so maybe that overdrive thing is disabled?
Click to expand...

Yeah you're kinda right but I don't see many differences. I mean its not like it has more inputs or looks different.
 
well i finally did it. took my 226BW back that couldn't hold the image straight for the life of it. got store credit and now i (im)patiently wait the coming of the 226CW....lets hope i get better luck with that one. back on my 17" CRT.....its hard
 
Hey guys,

I know the 226bw thing is kind of a lottery right?
But how many people are actually getting the S model who purchased it recently?
From all these posts, I'm seeing that most people who purchased a 226bw recently are getting the C model.
 
From what I see, the only way you can be sure that you get an S version is by purchasing it used or open box. The used S models often cost more than purchasing a 226bw new, since those could possibly be the A, C, or S version (or not even state the version).

At the moment, an S version is being sold by me at the amazon website
 
I bought my 226BW last week from my local Best Buy ($319 on sale) and I got the 'C' version. Same as many others I was worried about the quality of the panel but I must say, if the 'S' panel version is better I cant imagine it being better by very much.

There is very slight backlight bleed at the top (that is hardly noticeable even when looking for it), and I did have to fiddle with the OSD brightness and RGB color settings and my Nvidia color settings for a bit out of the box, but after a few days I am very satisfied with this LCD. How many LCD's do not need at least some calibration right out of the box anyways?

PC gaming looks excellent--no lag or ghosting. Xbox 360 games look excellent running at 1366x768--great colors and no noticeable aspect ratio issues despite the 1680x1050 native res.

I also still have my Ergotron Neo-Flex stand and it works good for this LCD. One problem was that the screws that came with the stand didnt seem to screw into the back of the 226BW (wrong size), so I just took the three screws from the 226BW's stock stand. Problem there is the 226BW's stand only had three screws where as the Neo-Flex stand needs four. So for the time being three screws will have to do.

Only complaint I have so far with the display is that it cannot do the 720 and 1080 resolutions like my old Sceptre x22wg-Gamer did before the DVI port died. That was an awesome feature that I will miss when using this 226BW. Besides that, I would recommend this display to anyone--even if you get "the dreaded 'C' version.":rolleyes:
 
I bought two at Fry's and one at CC during the Best Buy sale. The guy @ BB was pretty sure they only had C panels. Fry's was 110% pricematching the BB price, while tossing in their own $30 MIR that ended on the 5th. :D ~$285AR, but tax is a killer, as always in CA.

First one was Fry's - April manufacturing date, C panel, and I can't remember where it was manufactured - I think China. It was really blue... I had no real color-matching tools to work with, so I was just playing it by ear. Dropping the blue down to ~10-20 seemed to get the colors closer to normal. It had an 'H' pattern backlight, weird artifacting with RTS on while moving the MS Paint 'edit colors' tab around, etc.. basically a C panel through and through None of the preset profiles really seemed to match it well, and 3D games would ignore the ICC profiles anyway and jack the colors up again.

Second one was from CC - said 6/22 on the box, made in Mexico, C panel. It was really blue. Pretty much the exact same thing color-wise and backlight-wise as the previous.

Third one was a straight exchange at Fry's for another 226BW that had just come in the night of 7/4. It was made in China, and had zero panel info on the panel itself or service menu. It has better backlighting, MUCH better color balance out the box - if anything, it's a hair too red, but definitely no overbearing blue hues out the box. And it doesn't artifact in that odd little MSPaint test. I'm guessing this is one of those S panels that samsung said they'd start making a month or two ago, but they're still hiding the panel info. Either way, it's better than the last two I tried.

Reading the wiki that Pigster has, I was reading the LANAddicts review. I was a bit cheesed by one detail there... the review is roughly a month old; May 28, 2007. The monitor was sent to them, as mentioned in the review, by someone in Samsung Canada. Their panel in the pictures was manufactured in December 2006, so - yeah - an original S panel. Jesus. That's cherrypicking for you.
 
Just picked up a new 226BW from CC and low and behold they have removed the panel information from the back and the service menu...any other way of finding out what panel I have?
 
I would think that the ones without panel info are the new ones and therefore... .are S panel. I could be wrong.

I'll be picking up my 226BW from CC sometime this week. Wish me luck on getting a good one.
 
Newegg was out of stock until yesterday, hopefull their current stock is the S panel again. I'll probably order one at the end of the week, here's to hoping....
 
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