It nice to see someone of my age still playing computer gamesCurrently playing the call of duty series on my 226bw.
Grandpa ?
...and ...gunner's settings look awesome!
Im sticking to it for now.
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Samsung 226BW 22": 3000:1 Contrast, 2ms response time
- Thread starter Kast
- Start date
Grandpa ?
...and ...gunner's settings look awesome!
Im sticking to it for now.
Thanks for sharing the profile with us gunner1, but it didn't work for me. I copied the file under C:\WINDOWS\system32\spool\drivers\color\ together with other .icm profiles. I opened Display Color Settings, I pressed Apply and Set as Default. I restarted Windows. Nothing changed. The colors are the same. Did I miss anything?
Update: I read that I need Microsoft's Color Control Applet. However, it doesn't seem to work on my system. I installed .NET and did everything, but it refuses to launch. Is there any alternative way to install this profile?
Update2: I found a program called xcalib that is also supposed to be able to apply profiles. I'll try it when I get back home.
Question: Do these icm profiles work for games too? As I see it, I can't select them in nvidia game settings profiles.
So I read through like 40 pages of this thread, and was pretty excited through the first 20, and then all this S panel, A panel crap started. Is there any merit to this.
Whats the bottom line here, would anyone still recommend a 226 today over other LCDs, or is there something better?
Whats the bottom line here, would anyone still recommend a 226 today over other LCDs, or is there something better?
I wouldn't use the Nvidia control panel for loading your profile. It will do some pretty freaky things with it. If you have the color correction settings changed, make sure they are set back to Standard Mode. I had mixed results with the Windows color control program. Even though my monitor is setup to use the profile by default, it will not load on startup for some reason. I have to go back into the program and reload the profile manually. It may be a problem on my end, though.
Also, something that hasn't been mentioned here yet. The instructions for calibration using the Spyder suggest that you disable Adobe Gamma(assuming you're running it), as it will interfere with your profile settings.
Visually, the difference between the color profile that Samsung provides and my Spyder profile is that the screen will turn a bit darker and more color-rich when I load the Spyder profile. That should be your cue that the profile loaded successfully. And as others have said, once you get the profile working correctly, you might want to turn down the brightness on the monitor. The Spyder calibration program recommends calibrating at the monitor's factory default settings, but jeez, that was still way too bright for me. I turned my brightness down to 65.
Read my long review a few pages back. I have an A panel and I'm very happy with it.
My current settings without Spyder are:
Brightness: 80 Contrast: 40 Red: 80 Green: 75 Blue: 55
This works quite good for my panel. The secret to calibrating with eyeballing is to find a problematic picture and try to make it look good. I have a photograph where the skin color looks terrible with default settings. I tried for about an hour to get it right, but I finally did it. Now everything looks quite good, I wonder if Spyder would make that much difference now.
Another important point is to find a setting where your eyes don't hurt. I could make the settings I gave above better, but that would make the screen brighter and it would damage my eyes in the long turn. It's hard to find a compromise, but I did it for my system with the settings above.
A tip: No matter what your settings are, lowering the Gamma in your nvidia or ati control panel makes the colors look richer.
Brightness: 80 Contrast: 40 Red: 80 Green: 75 Blue: 55
This works quite good for my panel. The secret to calibrating with eyeballing is to find a problematic picture and try to make it look good. I have a photograph where the skin color looks terrible with default settings. I tried for about an hour to get it right, but I finally did it. Now everything looks quite good, I wonder if Spyder would make that much difference now.
Another important point is to find a setting where your eyes don't hurt. I could make the settings I gave above better, but that would make the screen brighter and it would damage my eyes in the long turn. It's hard to find a compromise, but I did it for my system with the settings above.
A tip: No matter what your settings are, lowering the Gamma in your nvidia or ati control panel makes the colors look richer.
How did you pay that much? Mine was $325 shipped from last Friday.
The ColorVision program that manages the color profiles seems to have this problem also, at least for me under Vista. When I reboot the system and log in, it will set the color profile correctly, then it immediately reverts back to the uncalibrated settings. Running the program manually a 2nd time gets the profile set correctly. I've reported the problem to ColorVision and they say that it is a Windows problem. We'll see what happens.
I wish I could help those here who are having trouble with the profile I've provided, but as I only use the ColorVision software that shipped with my Spyder to manage the color profile I don't know what other apps work.
To the extent that this forum has made a big deal of it. No. It is waaaay overblown. I've had both and think the A might have looked better.
If there is a difference it is very very subtle and 99% of the people will never notice it. The monitor must be calibrated though since the default settings look bad.
I had my 20" Viewsonic vx2025 sitting next to my 226bw when I first bought it to compare the differences. Yes the picture was a smidgen sharper. However if I didn't have them sitting next to each other I would have never known. The 226bw was not as sharp but personally I love the bigger screen for gaming and considered it a nice upgrade from the 20" widescreen. Do yourself a favor and at least try the 226bw for yourself. The 226bw is awesome for gaming. BF2142 looked fantastic on it last night as I sniped the enemy
hi everyone
first post here
I'm thinking of buying at least one 226
The question is if I should pair it with another 226 both in landscape or portrait orientation or with two 19' inch (probably samsung 931c) on either side.
from what I read the A panel is more likely to suffer from mild backlight bleeding. I am I correct or it is equally likely/unlikely for the S panel too?
compared to a Viewsonic VX2235 how better/worse is the image quality?
that's it for now
first post here
I'm thinking of buying at least one 226
The question is if I should pair it with another 226 both in landscape or portrait orientation or with two 19' inch (probably samsung 931c) on either side.
from what I read the A panel is more likely to suffer from mild backlight bleeding. I am I correct or it is equally likely/unlikely for the S panel too?
compared to a Viewsonic VX2235 how better/worse is the image quality?
that's it for now
Pegleg Joe
Weaksauce
- Joined
- Nov 28, 2006
- Messages
- 121
I tried gunner's ICC file and it worked fine, but for some reason caused my frames in CS:S to vary wildly and to make in unplayable. This may be due to my old computer (Athlon 2200+, TI4600). Just wanted to let you guys know.
Newegg has been changing the price almost daily. It was $359.99 Sunday, Went to $369.99 Monday morning when I ordered mine and then dropped to $354.99 later Monday and that is where it is now. I am not real happy about the fact that I ordered on the 1 day out of 3 that the price was the highest. They are still cheaper then CC because I have to pay sales tax but I don't like losing $10 to $15 because I just happen to order on the wrong day.
It will be here tomorrow. I am curious to see if is the famous S model or the dreaded A.
Dark_Legacy
Limp Gawd
- Joined
- Dec 7, 2006
- Messages
- 251
Newegg has been changing the price almost daily. It was $359.99 Sunday, Went to $369.99 Monday morning when I ordered mine and then dropped to $354.99 later Monday and that is where it is now. I am not real happy about the fact that I ordered on the 1 day out of 3 that the price was the highest. They are still cheaper then CC because I have to pay sales tax but I don't like losing $10 to $15 because I just happen to order on the wrong day.
It will be here tomorrow. I am curious to see if is the famous S model or the dreaded A.
I've got an S model. It absolutely kicks ass, but I discovered that I have one red "stuck" pixel in the center right of my screen. It's really really hard to notice it, and you have to like lean up to the monitor and squint to find it.
In any case, you're going to get S panels from Newegg.
Mansize_tissue
2[H]4U
- Joined
- Jan 1, 2007
- Messages
- 2,501
I had my 20" Viewsonic vx2025 sitting next to my 226bw when I first bought it to compare the differences. Yes the picture was a smidgen sharper. However if I didn't have them sitting next to each other I would have never known. The 226bw was not as sharp but personally I love the bigger screen for gaming and considered it a nice upgrade from the 20" widescreen. Do yourself a favor and at least try the 226bw for yourself. The 226bw is awesome for gaming. BF2142 looked fantastic on it last night as I sniped the enemy
Cheers. I think i'll be pretty content with a 20" widescreen, though. I mean, i've gotten used to gaming on my laptop which has a 15.4" screen, so the jump to 20" is still a pretty big one! And if it's going to look better in games, with a smaller price tag that the 22" Samsung, i'll probably be better off with the 206BW. Unless you, or anyone, could pursuade me otherwise, of course; that is if you can actually be bothered.
Noble Lumpkin
n00b
- Joined
- Mar 17, 2007
- Messages
- 27
When I did a calibration with Spyder2 Express it does not do anything to the Brightness or Contrast. Is that the way it is supposed to be?
Desso Studios
n00b
- Joined
- Mar 19, 2007
- Messages
- 3
Cheers. I think i'll be pretty content with a 20" widescreen, though. I mean, i've gotten used to gaming on my laptop which has a 15.4" screen, so the jump to 20" is still a pretty big one! And if it's going to look better in games, with a smaller price tag that the 22" Samsung, i'll probably be better off with the 206BW. Unless you, or anyone, could pursuade me otherwise, of course; that is if you can actually be bothered.
I went from a 17 to the 22. NO REGRETS
Actually, I was undecided, thinking a 22 would be too big for my desk. Got the 22 at the last second, and glad I did. If you can afford it, I know you'll not regret it.
Good luck with whatever you choose.
Desso Studios
Eastcoasthandle
[H]ard|Gawd
- Joined
- Jan 27, 2006
- Messages
- 1,041
It depends on the software package. The more expensive the more feature rich the program gets. However, I there should be an option to tell the program what kind of settings are on your monitor.
Noble Lumpkin
n00b
- Joined
- Mar 17, 2007
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- 27
I just found out that it doesn't. That is good. It tell you what it does when you start the program. Also there is an update to the software to V:2.3 but I had to get it from the English site. On the US Site when I click Support I get nothing.
Newegg has been changing the price almost daily. It was $359.99 Sunday, Went to $369.99 Monday morning when I ordered mine and then dropped to $354.99 later Monday and that is where it is now. I am not real happy about the fact that I ordered on the 1 day out of 3 that the price was the highest. They are still cheaper then CC because I have to pay sales tax but I don't like losing $10 to $15 because I just happen to order on the wrong day.
It will be here tomorrow. I am curious to see if is the famous S model or the dreaded A.
The price at www.newegg.com right now is is $354.99 - $30 rebate = $324.99 final price. Plus, they are shipping the "S" panel, wich is more lovable than the "A" panel (I can tell you that because I returned two "A"'s). Now, if this is not the best deal ever on an LCD monitor.......
ElektroDragon
Limp Gawd
- Joined
- Mar 23, 2006
- Messages
- 192
I just got this monitor from NewEgg today. It is the S version, no dead pixels, minimal bleed. It replaces my relatively awesome IBM P97 19" Trinitron. I have some questions:
1) The ICM profile that Gunner posted. I loaded it into XP in place of the default profile but it didn't seem to change the colors? How does this work? What are the recommended manual settings for this monitor?
2) I am seeing an occasional image issue running through DVI. It's almost like small chunks toward the top of the screen brieftly crystallize for a second or two and then the effect goes away to reappear later. Not really bothersome, anyone else notice this or know what could be causing it?
3) Is there any way to force this monitor to do 75Hz at native res on an Nvidia 6800GT card? Reforce didn't work.
Thanks for any help!!!
1) The ICM profile that Gunner posted. I loaded it into XP in place of the default profile but it didn't seem to change the colors? How does this work? What are the recommended manual settings for this monitor?
2) I am seeing an occasional image issue running through DVI. It's almost like small chunks toward the top of the screen brieftly crystallize for a second or two and then the effect goes away to reappear later. Not really bothersome, anyone else notice this or know what could be causing it?
3) Is there any way to force this monitor to do 75Hz at native res on an Nvidia 6800GT card? Reforce didn't work.
Thanks for any help!!!
ElektroDragon
Limp Gawd
- Joined
- Mar 23, 2006
- Messages
- 192
One further problem. At this site: http://www.lagom.nl/lcd-test/#gradient
The contrast test: The first 5 boxes are visible ONLY if I move them to the top or bottom of the screen, or look at them from an angle. When I view them head on, all 5 are INVISIBLE regardless of brightness or contrast settings! What is going on? Anyone else experience this?
The contrast test: The first 5 boxes are visible ONLY if I move them to the top or bottom of the screen, or look at them from an angle. When I view them head on, all 5 are INVISIBLE regardless of brightness or contrast settings! What is going on? Anyone else experience this?
The price at www.newegg.com right now is is $354.99 - $30 rebate = $324.99 final price. Plus, they are shipping the "S" panel, wich is more lovable than the "A" panel (I can tell you that because I returned two "A"'s). Now, if this is not the best deal ever on an LCD monitor.......
How do you know they are shipping S panels?
theaugmenter
n00b
- Joined
- Mar 17, 2007
- Messages
- 1
I also got a 206BW, and I've been using it for a week now. At work i'm using the previous model 205BW, and I can't tell much difference because of the different lighting conditions, except to say that the 206BW is much much brighter.
I like this LCD a lot, don't get me wrong... im not trying to be nit picky or anything. But I have noticed two problems so far. And maybe someone even mentioned this before, I haven't read through the whole thread.
The first problem is that the lcd seems too go off and on again every hour or so. Could it be my that my graphic card is acting up? The screen goes black and then the picture comes back instantly. I'm using DVI.
The second problem I've noticed is while watching movies. There is clearly visible tearing in the top left corner during the playback (fast scenes). I've read something about V-Sync, but I've no idea where to turn it on... and even if it would work. This is most apparent in 720p playback.
My mate also got his the same day. And his was faulty as it had some hard foil between the display and the frame. It was replaced. I'll try to reproduce the tearing effect at his house soon.
I like this LCD a lot, don't get me wrong... im not trying to be nit picky or anything. But I have noticed two problems so far. And maybe someone even mentioned this before, I haven't read through the whole thread.
The first problem is that the lcd seems too go off and on again every hour or so. Could it be my that my graphic card is acting up? The screen goes black and then the picture comes back instantly. I'm using DVI.
The second problem I've noticed is while watching movies. There is clearly visible tearing in the top left corner during the playback (fast scenes). I've read something about V-Sync, but I've no idea where to turn it on... and even if it would work. This is most apparent in 720p playback.
My mate also got his the same day. And his was faulty as it had some hard foil between the display and the frame. It was replaced. I'll try to reproduce the tearing effect at his house soon.
because of these :
PS. As I finished writing this post, the FEDEX guy rings the bell and delivered from newegg my new 226BW. IT IS "S" type!.
Thanks for the great info guys. Well I ordered at the beginning of the week from NewEgg.com and received a S panel.
.
I've got an S model. It absolutely kicks ass....In any case, you're going to get S panels from Newegg.
Not a single poster here in this entire thread got an "A panel from newegg.
ElektroDragon
Limp Gawd
- Joined
- Mar 23, 2006
- Messages
- 192
This totally sucks... my new 226bw... has within TWO HOURS of use developed two STUCK PIXELS in the middle of the screen. Oddly they are smaller than what I thought were the pixels on the pixel grid. They are visible as a light blue on a black background. Has anyone else has this problem? What can I do?!?
If giving your monitor a seizure doesn't work you can always try to manually force the pixel to "roll over":
http://www.wikihow.com/Fix-a-Stuck-Pixel-on-an-LCD-Monitor
I am in no way reliable of what may occur to your monitor. My advice is to completely be patient with it. Stuck pixels have been known to go away over time with said methods and natural use.
http://www.wikihow.com/Fix-a-Stuck-Pixel-on-an-LCD-Monitor
I am in no way reliable of what may occur to your monitor.
My advice is to completely be patient with it. Stuck pixels have been known to go away over time with said methods and natural use.We should be striving to find perfect image not with Spyder color profiles on Windows, but with the settings on the monitor itself. Profiles should be loaded every time your system starts up to work. It's not clear if they work in DirectX or OpenGL games. Every time you install Windows again, you have to install the profile again etc. etc. It's artificial. It's not an elegant solution.
There must be a perfect value for Brightness, Contrast, Red, Green and Blue for this monitor. If we can adjust the monitor settings perfectly, then it'll give perfect image without loading anything on Windows.
I'm still in the process of finding the perfect settings for my panel. I've tried for hours with test programs and pictures and found very good values, but there's still some work to be done.
If anyone has found good values for Brightness, Contrast, Red, Green and Blue, I'd love to hear it.
There must be a perfect value for Brightness, Contrast, Red, Green and Blue for this monitor. If we can adjust the monitor settings perfectly, then it'll give perfect image without loading anything on Windows.
I'm still in the process of finding the perfect settings for my panel. I've tried for hours with test programs and pictures and found very good values, but there's still some work to be done.
If anyone has found good values for Brightness, Contrast, Red, Green and Blue, I'd love to hear it.
hi,
i received my 226BW ("S" panel, manufactured in february in slovakia) on monday an i've been having some problems with it. it's hooked to a radeon 9800SE gfx card, not overclocked, actually underclocked most of the time.
the problem manifests itself by several short horizontal dotty lines on dark background caused by vicinity of white space containing black text such as a total commander or notepad window, that is any space with very high local contrast to put it another way. please see for yourselves:
http://img138.imageshack.us/my.php?image=dsc01599lh5.jpg
http://img214.imageshack.us/my.php?image=dsc01598yr9.jpg
http://img132.imageshack.us/my.php?image=dsc01601ic3.jpg
the reason i took the pictures with a phone camera is that the lines are not visible on a screenshot taken with the printscreen button meaning that the corruption probably does not occur in the memory of the gfx card but rather somewhere on the way from the gfx card to the monitor. the potential causes i already eliminated include the following:
- resolution, refresh rate, GPU and GPU memory clock. no matter what i change, the problem persits save that in very low resolutions the problem is less or not at all visible probably due to scaling done by the monitor
- connection type: i have the panel connected via DVI-D which makes the lines very clear, however they are visible even if i connect it via analogoue D-SUB connection albeit they are somewhat smeared and less apparent
my old CRT monitor never exhibited this kind of behaviour when connected to the same gfx card at the same resolution and refresh rate (yes, i even tried 60Hz on the CRT). i have yet to try to hook the samsung to a different gfx card and try to hook a different LCD to my gfx card
i would hate to have to return the Samsung as it appears to be quite fine in other respects and the vendor does not have it on stock currently, so i would be very happy if i could trace the problem to my gfx card. the problem is actually only mildly annoying as it occurs under quite rare cicumstances and I can live with it, however naturally i don't want to keep a defective panel in case it proves to be the cause. therefore i would welcome any feedback on whether any of you folks have experienced anything similar or are even able to reproduce such behaviour on your setup
thanks
edit: problem solved, there was apparently some problem with power cord connection, oops
i received my 226BW ("S" panel, manufactured in february in slovakia) on monday an i've been having some problems with it. it's hooked to a radeon 9800SE gfx card, not overclocked, actually underclocked most of the time.
the problem manifests itself by several short horizontal dotty lines on dark background caused by vicinity of white space containing black text such as a total commander or notepad window, that is any space with very high local contrast to put it another way. please see for yourselves:
http://img138.imageshack.us/my.php?image=dsc01599lh5.jpg
http://img214.imageshack.us/my.php?image=dsc01598yr9.jpg
http://img132.imageshack.us/my.php?image=dsc01601ic3.jpg
the reason i took the pictures with a phone camera is that the lines are not visible on a screenshot taken with the printscreen button meaning that the corruption probably does not occur in the memory of the gfx card but rather somewhere on the way from the gfx card to the monitor. the potential causes i already eliminated include the following:
- resolution, refresh rate, GPU and GPU memory clock. no matter what i change, the problem persits save that in very low resolutions the problem is less or not at all visible probably due to scaling done by the monitor
- connection type: i have the panel connected via DVI-D which makes the lines very clear, however they are visible even if i connect it via analogoue D-SUB connection albeit they are somewhat smeared and less apparent
my old CRT monitor never exhibited this kind of behaviour when connected to the same gfx card at the same resolution and refresh rate (yes, i even tried 60Hz on the CRT). i have yet to try to hook the samsung to a different gfx card and try to hook a different LCD to my gfx card
i would hate to have to return the Samsung as it appears to be quite fine in other respects and the vendor does not have it on stock currently, so i would be very happy if i could trace the problem to my gfx card. the problem is actually only mildly annoying as it occurs under quite rare cicumstances and I can live with it, however naturally i don't want to keep a defective panel in case it proves to be the cause. therefore i would welcome any feedback on whether any of you folks have experienced anything similar or are even able to reproduce such behaviour on your setup
thanks
edit: problem solved, there was apparently some problem with power cord connection, oops
Yet another confirmed S panel from Newegg. I said that I wasn't going to look, but having the monitor at work for 6 hours got the best of me, and I looked. I used mine for 4+ hours last night. No dead pixels out of the box. Confirming, as many others have, that the factory brightness was blasting at 100. Going from a 17" CRT to this I have to admit that I suffered a bit of motion sickness.
I played an hour of HL2 and I gotta say that all my future game purchases will be made with widescreen support in mind. And If it doesn't have it, I may not buy it. Playing a round of BF2 using the force resolution "hack", I found the battlefield to be quite the same. The slight stretching was hardly noticeable, although I had to turn down my mouse sensitivity a bit.
And finally to all the haters that have negative comments to post about this 226BW. If you think you can design and manufacture a better LCD for under $400, I challenge you to move to S. Korea and get a job doing so. The overblown "backlight bleeding" topic is so unnoticeable it's not even worth mentioning. I've not seen any banding while playing games, and I don't think I'll be sitting in one place long enough to see it either if it is there.
I played an hour of HL2 and I gotta say that all my future game purchases will be made with widescreen support in mind. And If it doesn't have it, I may not buy it. Playing a round of BF2 using the force resolution "hack", I found the battlefield to be quite the same. The slight stretching was hardly noticeable, although I had to turn down my mouse sensitivity a bit.
And finally to all the haters that have negative comments to post about this 226BW. If you think you can design and manufacture a better LCD for under $400, I challenge you to move to S. Korea and get a job doing so. The overblown "backlight bleeding" topic is so unnoticeable it's not even worth mentioning. I've not seen any banding while playing games, and I don't think I'll be sitting in one place long enough to see it either if it is there.
Noble Lumpkin
n00b
- Joined
- Mar 17, 2007
- Messages
- 27
It is supposed to. I have the same results. The ICC that comes with the monitor seemed fine to me. Colors were good and I just adjusted the Brightness and Contrast to my liking. I ran Spyder2 and it loaded it's profile and I didn't see any difference. I took the ICC that was on line here and used it. No Difference. I think the thing is a bunch of BS. When you boot up it says it is loaded into the Video Card. If there is a different way to do the cal I wish they would explain it or maybe some nice person here that knows how, would post it. NL
Not that anyone has been able to tell. Just get it from newegg.
contentryder
n00b
- Joined
- Mar 20, 2007
- Messages
- 2
Yesterday, I received my "S" panel from newegg also!! It came in thinking I have an A panel, but newegg does it right plus one day shipping. Awesome. Only problem I have is a little, little backlight bleed on top and the sides. Tried to tweak it, but it won't go away, owell.
Here's a little preview before I grab a better camera. (I'm using my pda camera right now)
Goes splendid with the same design as my 32" LN-S3241D Sammy and perfect fit within the TV stand.
Here's a little preview before I grab a better camera. (I'm using my pda camera right now)
Goes splendid with the same design as my 32" LN-S3241D Sammy and perfect fit within the TV stand.
Noble Lumpkin
n00b
- Joined
- Mar 17, 2007
- Messages
- 27
I agree with you 100%. I have been tinkering with everything. It is nice to get what other people are using so we can try it and see if we like it too. I really have not come across a setup of mine or anybody else that I can say it is for me. My Daughter in Law has been eying this monitor so maybe I will just give it to her. Who knows.
Cliff Couser
[H]ard|Gawd
- Joined
- Dec 22, 2003
- Messages
- 1,860
I was going to get at CC this week already and they ran out agian yesterday in my area. They can't hold these damned things for more than 2 days!
Anyways...will order from Egg when I return Monday...with my luck.....(NO...I hope its still an "S")...and yes, I believe(d) the hype.
Will keep you guys posted.
EDIT: I just ordered from the Egg. Hope its an S.
Anyways...will order from Egg when I return Monday...with my luck.....(NO...I hope its still an "S")...and yes, I believe(d) the hype.
Will keep you guys posted.
EDIT: I just ordered from the Egg. Hope its an S.