Samsung 226BW 22": 3000:1 Contrast, 2ms response time

quincy4

Check video Card, Clean contacts blowout the slot and reseat.

Deinstall video driver completely, power down then reinstall.

What brand size video card are you using?
 
Here's a pic for you...My camera's crap, so i don't think you can really see too much detail in the pic. I will say that the NEC panel has much more clarity, more vibrant colors and you see very fine details, whereas the 226bw, the image is not as clear alot of the detail seems washed out, and it's not as bright.


QUOTE]

Are you sure you have the 226bw adjusted correctly? You metioned brightness. I thought yours looked a little dark in the picture and mine can easily go as bright as your NEC. Mine was so bright I found myself getting headaches and squinting when I first got it. Anyway I wanted the NEC but couldn't justify the cost for a gaming LCD. The 226bw does a fantastic job handling games and Im happy with it :)
 
You do realize the 20wmgx is approximately $200 more than the 226bw. It better pwn....:rolleyes:

Also the NEC is an IPS doesn't have the 2ms response time. 700:1 CR.

The samsung is simply geared to Gamers and performance.

The Price is a Plus.
 
quincy4

Check video Card, Clean contacts blowout the slot and reseat.

Deinstall video driver completely, power down then reinstall.

What brand size video card are you using?

I will try cleaning it today and see if it helps, I have an ATI AIW 9700 PRO agp.
 
Also the NEC is an IPS doesn't have the 2ms response time. 700:1 CR.

The samsung is simply geared to Gamers and performance.

The Price is a Plus.
The 3000:1 contrast ration on the Samsung 226BW is labelled "dynamic contrast," meaning they take black at the lowest brightness and white at the highest - maybe even fudging the contrast levels to get the greatest difference.

Also, I read somewhere (but I can't be sure) that S-IPS at the 20WMGX2's speed is equivalent to the 2ms TN, if not almost as fast. Er, wait - WSGF lists the typical response on the NEC as 12ms. I don't think it's the same as TN, though, reading around the forums over there.
 
You do realize the 20wmgx is approximately $200 more than the 226bw. It better pwn....:rolleyes:

The difference in price between the two in Canada, was only $100. (450 vs 550).

Are you sure you have the 226bw adjusted correctly? You metioned brightness. I thought yours looked a little dark in the picture and mine can easily go as bright as your NEC. Mine was so bright I found myself getting headaches and squinting when I first got it. Anyway I wanted the NEC but couldn't justify the cost for a gaming LCD. The 226bw does a fantastic job handling games and Im happy with it

In the pic i took, brightness was set at 65, contrast at 80, and gamma at 1. I've turned the brightness up to 100 and it still can't compare to the NEC. I also find that it's difficult to stare at the samsung when the brightness is set to high, while it doesn't really bother me on the NEC.
 
The difference in price between the two in Canada, was only $100. (450 vs 550).

In the pic i took, brightness was set at 65, contrast at 80, and gamma at 1. I've turned the brightness up to 100 and it still can't compare to the NEC. I also find that it's difficult to stare at the samsung when the brightness is set to high, while it doesn't really bother me on the NEC.

Ahh, I knew you didn't have it maxed out. It's all good. I couldn't handle it at 100 anyway. As mentioned the brightness was giving me headaches. You need to give us a correct picture now since you made a comment that the 226bw wasn't as bright in your original posts. :p

Ya, at only $100 difference I would have definately consider it but at $200 more for a gaming screen, no thanks. Im actually kind of jealous. You have a 226bw and 20wmgx ;)
 
I've been following just about all 45 pages of this thread when searching for reviews of The Sammy 226BW. This has been the best source of information when researching this thing. There is a lot of helpful discussions in this thread and forum. So I went ahead and purchased the 226BW a couple of weeks ago from CC and got an (a) type. Reading all of this made go mad, visiting back to the store and trying to compare the display (s) with mine at home. I was one click away from purchasing through newegg, when i realized the madness. I was immersing myself in every little flaw i found and looking everywhere else but the monitor in front of me with all of the great things about it. The experience was exhausting, believe me I went back and fourth with this (a) vs (s) thing in my head for days, and am still a little curious as to the differences in a side by side standoff. Coming from a Sony vaio 17" CRT, the Samsung is incredible. I almost have to move my head side to side a little bit to view the whole screen! I am very happy with this monitor even with the little dithering and backlight bleeding most likely everyone else has with an (a) or an (s). I had to sign up and get this little piece off. I just hope this can help other potential 226BW buyers that are experiencing the crazy drama of this A vs S thing as i did. ;) On another note, I stumbled upon this informative article written about LCD monitors. Some of it was a little confusing as it is very detail enriched for more advanced LCD enthusiasts. The article breaks down Response times, contrast ratios, specified, actual and dynamic (which i was wondering why the whole screen changes dark to light on certain sites when using dynamic setting), color reproduction etc. It also mentions something about Samsung cutting down the competition in the professional LCD market with LED back lighting instead of CCF lamps. Sorry about the long messy post, I am new to posting on threads as well-- guess I'm a Newb :D
article1: http://xbitlabs.com/articles/other/display/lcd-parameters.html
article2: http://xbitlabs.com/articles/other/display/professional-monitors.html
 
Hi guys. I'm about to buy this 226BW monitor but I'm really undecided about it.
I had this 215TW before and it had so big input lag that I took it back after 1 week. Playing games was no go on this thing. So here I stand again looking at a monitor but yet again no input lag test for it. :(

Can someone please do a test with it. I need this monitor for gaming and only for gaming so it must be fast in video input response.

Another thing. I'm looking at the 226BW and 206BW which is supposed to be its little brother right. What is better for gaming and in general for surfing the web and so.
Having a 20" in 1680x1050 or 22" in 1680x1050. Can you see the difference in picture quality at all and does the bigger dot on the 22" screen play a role? I suppose if you have a dead pixel it will be bigger on the 22" screen right?

Edit: TO Collardgreens

Sorry but you didnt help at all lol. So what are you talking about. What is this A and S type of monitor? What is the difference on the paper or better yet why are you meantoining it if I may ask? YOu only managed to put another problem on my table now lol.
 
Hi guys. I'm about to buy this 226BW monitor but I'm really undecided about it.
I had this 215TW before and it had so big input lag that I took it back after 1 week. Playing games was no go on this thing. So here I stand again looking at a monitor but yet again no input lag test for it. :(

Can someone please do a test with it. I need this monitor for gaming and only for gaming so it must be fast in video input response.

Another thing. I'm looking at the 226BW and 206BW which is supposed to be its little brother right. What is better for gaming and in general for surfing the web and so.
Having a 20" in 1680x1050 or 22" in 1680x1050. Can you see the difference in picture quality at all and does the bigger dot on the 22" screen play a role? I suppose if you have a dead pixel it will be bigger on the 22" screen right?

Edit: TO Collardgreens

Sorry but you didnt help at all lol. So what are you talking about. What is this A and S type of monitor? What is the difference on the paper or better yet why are you meantoining it if I may ask? YOu only managed to put another problem on my table now lol.

Although I have no "tests" on input lag it's virtually non-existent in Half Life 2, CS 1.6, Oblivion, C&C 3, etc.

A smaller dot pitch does mean "finer pixels". I wouldn't be pulling hairs though between the 20" and 22".

If you read the previous posts you would have learned there are "A" panels and "S" panels. They are essentially made by two different manufacturers. At first many people praised the S panel to be the better one and the A panel to trail behind. But some light has come out the "A" tunnel and the differences between the two vary somewhat. I believe the S panel reproduces color better and has slightly less backlight bleed; however, one user said the A panel was a wee bit sharper to him (When side-by-side comparing "A" and "S").

In the end it comes down to you which panel you want to juggle into getting. If you get an A panel don't freak... test it out. If you like it, keep it. If you want to dive into attempting to get a S panel then good luck.
 
Zigaroo thank you for that explanation and you are right when assuming that I haven't read the whole 800 post thread :D.

Thank you for all the info but with all due respect. I would still need to see some tests CRT VS 226 because I simple can't trust what people say about such a sensible thing like input lag. You know I had this 215TW and I complained about the lag on other forums and people who had it also said it has no lag like 4 out of 5 people either didn't notice it or just couldn't admit it for whatever reason. So I take this problem as a subjective one and thats why I can not lean myself on anybodys saying about this stuff and need hard evidence in numbers.
 
I am no LCD guru, but i do know that the 226BW is phenomenal for gaming. Played Battlefield 2142 and Call of Duty UO, Oblivion. Was disappointed when viewing a dvd though. Choppy, Blotchy patches....horrible. I haven't read about to much dvd playback quality with the 226BW from other people. I'm pretty sure the problem is because i just had this PC built and i don't have any viable DVD software or my preferred burner installed yet. I am running the monitor on an XFX 7600GT 256mb card. How could everything else especially gaming run so beautifully but DVD playback garbage?!?:confused:. Viewing video clips on the Internet seem to be fine. You can download short hd movie clips for free at http://www.microsoft.com/windows/windowsmedia/musicandvideo/hdvideo/contentshowcase.aspx and Hi-Res wide screen background images at
http://interfacelift.com/wallpaper/index.php?sort=date&w=1680&h=1050
Go here to check to see what panel your LCD is made of (pretty concurrent) http://www.flatpanels.dk/panels.php

The main thing about this monitor that i have learned to live with is the fact that it is a TN matrix, and that the slightest head movement changes the color and brightness. Kind of Like rear projection TVs. An S-ISP or a PVA/MVA matrix the color image stays solid when moving your head around. Kind of like a LCD television.
As far as your question on the A vs S thing, browse through any pages on this particular thread. Basically Samsung originally manufactured there own panels (s) with there own manufacturing process and standards, then outsourced manufacturing to AUO. There has been debate as to whether or not the original S panel has better quality or less flaws than the A panel manufactured through AUO. It has been said AUO is one of, if not the largest LCD panel manufacturer. So more than likely the display you see in the store is an S panel, when you open your new Sammy at home.. its an A. I don't know, Big deal right.
pardon me for any incorrect terminology. This is basically it in a nutshell, other posts are better written and far more informative than this one. Also, I'm not sure but are all 22" wide screen consumer level monitors TN panels?
 
OK guys, I figure I'll just throw some more fuel on the fire, sit back and watch the bonfire.

I've just returned my second "A" panel to Circuit City for a refund after I decided I couldn't handle the amount of bleed that it had (for photos of the bleeding refer to both of my previous posts with shots of my "A" panels in action). The CC guys had kindly cracked open another box for me and it was also an "A" panel so I didn't have them hook it up. They were kind enough to give me a refund with no restocking fee.

I went to Best Buy where they had two new 226 in the box and since they didn't have one on display I asked them if they would open it. It was an "S" panel with a manufacturing date of Jan 2007 (same as both of my "A" panel units).

I took the panel home and have now tested it by running it through my Colorvision Spyder calibration software and then running a variety of tests including the lag test, banding test, viewing angle test (http://www.lagom.nl/lcd-test/#angle) and also looking at some of my own personal stock photos I have taken and compared on a number of monitors. I have had all panels hooked to my Geforce 8800GTS via DVI with the exact same video driver settings. I used default monitor settings of "custom" with 100 brightness and 85 contrast in all testing.

These are the differences as I see them;

1. "A" panel has more blue push. Both panels calibrated out very well but the "A" panels that I had both started with much more blue push than the "S" panel. This was very evident just viewing any white field and noticing the blue tint to it. Fortunately this is easily corrected in calibration.

2. "S" panel has less bleed. The "S" panel I have just purchased, after warmup does show some bleed. It is, however, not nearly as pronounced as the bleed on the two "A" series panels that I had. The "A" panel bleed was all along three sides of the display with patches that extended down into the "normal" display area by several inches. The bleeding was noticeable enough that I would immediately see it when returning to the monitor if a screen saver was running and I could also notice it quite readily when watching letterbox movies or videos. The "S" panel bleeding is just a little bit of slight panel bleed in a thin strip along two of the panel edges. It is not nearly as annoying when watching movies, etc. All I can say on this issue is that in my experience the "A" panel bleed was notably worse, although there seems to be some variation in all of the panels.

3. I played the WMV HD video clip "Coral Reef Adventure" on both displays. This video looks good but some mosquito noise is evident in the darker areas of both displays. In my subjective opinion the "S" panel has a little less noise than the "A" panel here.

4. "A" panel seems to have more gamma even after calibration than the ""S" panel. In my stock photos I noticed that the "S" panel after calibration had a more "saturated" look and the "A" panel had a slightly more "glossy", "brighter" look to photos.

5. Color reproduction. In my testing I found both monitors after calibration produce excellent color, probably the best I've seen on TFT panels. Banding, etc, is there, but it is minimal and hardly noticeable. Again, this is more evident on the "A" panel.

6. Viewing angle. In my viewing tests both panels had a tendency to start to lose color accuracy when viewed from left or right angles greater than about 30 degrees. In viewing at horizontal angles of as little as 5-10% some color variation could be seen at the bottom of both panels but again, the "S" panel was better in this regard. With the "S" panel I actually had to do a "double take" to see the color variations, with the "A" panel it was evident they were there as soon as I pulled up the test patterns.

7. Gaming. I ran BF2 on both panels at the native resolution (through shortcut switches) and they both performed comparably with no noticeable ghosting, etc.

8. Sharpness. There seemed to be small differences in panel sharpness, with the "S" panel looking sharper in some situations and the "A" having been sharper in others. In the end I call sharpness a wash between the two.


To summarize, after having owned three of these panels and run them through the battery, it is my opinion that the "S" panel is in fact superior to the "A" panel in the things that matter to ME, namely the amount of bleed (although obviously there will be variation here) as well as viewing angle, noise, etc. I do as much photo work as gaming so I am probably more critical than the typical user.

I hope my summary proves useful to those looking at the 226BW.
 
I have an A panel and also notice tremendous back light bleed around the edges as described in gunner1's post. I'm in upstate NY and Best Buy does not even have them on their website yet :(
 
I just got the 226BW last night and it looks amazing in Windows. but I have not done any calibrations :confused: how do I do that? There wasn't much on the Samsung supplied CD.
 
Would anyone possibly be able to show a size comparison of a 20" vs. a 22" I'm trying to decide if the extra 2 inches is worth the boost in price.
 
Would anyone possibly be able to show a size comparison of a 20" vs. a 22" I'm trying to decide if the extra 2 inches is worth the boost in price.

It doesn't sound like much on paper but in reality it's a big difference and I think a 22" is a better choice.
 
Would anyone possibly be able to show a size comparison of a 20" vs. a 22" I'm trying to decide if the extra 2 inches is worth the boost in price.

Check out the pic I took comparing the NEC vs the samsung, the NEC is 20".... I've since returned my samsung panel, and will probably pick up either another NEC panel or a 24" from dell.
 
Would anyone possibly be able to show a size comparison of a 20" vs. a 22" I'm trying to decide if the extra 2 inches is worth the boost in price.

Looks like someone hasn't read every post of this thread...;)

lcdsizejx5.gif
 
...but I have not done any calibrations :confused: how do I do that? There wasn't much on the Samsung supplied CD.

Well, there's about three ways you can calibrate your monitor. Two are done manually through the Menu with the monitor and the other is through your video card settings. The third is with a color calibrator you buy. You can find more information on those here:

http://www.hardforum.com/showthread.php?t=1166367

The ColorVision Spyder 2 and Eye-One Display 2 are the more favored ones from the looks of it.

You'd get the best results through a color calibrator. It's like trying to blend colors with crayons when doing it manually.

edit: $)#@ gunner! :p I agree though, the Spyder2 will give the best, yet cheap way for calibration.
 
226BW

I enjoy it for the speed and motion and clarity contrast.

The AUO panel is a TN screen. (Twisted Nematic)

The Samsung is a BTN III (Bistable Twisted Nematic) screen. quick response, better contrast, Wider View angle.

I'm no expert, But this is what I have found. These screens are two different species.

huh? how do you know they are different TN technologies from AUO and Samsung in the 226?
 
Ok, here is what I have found.

I have both an A and an S panel. After reading all the crap about the two, I decided to test it for myself. I bought the first one from CC and got an A. I heard NewEgg was shipping S panels. I ordered one from NewEgg, it came today. It is a ........ S panel.

I have calibrated both of them by eye to the best that I could. I have a Spyder2 Express on order. It will be here tomorrow.

So which one is better? To be honest I can't really tell. Backlight bleed might be slightly, and I mean ever so slightly better on the S. But that might just be because this one has it in a few different places. This monitor actually appears a bit darker in the corners - or is it just my imagination. Both show about the same degree of banding using test screens. Brightness and clarity are about the same.

The only thing, in my opinion that this monitor has against it is the viewing angle. Especially the vertical viewing angle. It is noticeable but tolerable I suppose.

I'll calibrate it and see what happens. Neither had dead pixels so since CC said I could return it with no stocking fee, I'll return the one I got from CC which is the A panel.

Bottom line. Don't let the A vs S scare you. It is not that big of a deal. If calibrated properly there is no way someone could look at two monitors side by side and tell you which one is which.

Just my two cents but see if you can deal with the viewing angles of TN panels and if so, this one is very nice.
 
huh? how do you know they are different TN technologies from AUO and Samsung in the 226?

Sir Spincut

Like I said I'm no expert, but the specs.Say BTN-III

Samsung Panel

LTM220M1
Item Description
Size 22.0"

Resolution WSXGA+

Number of Pixels 1,680 x 1,050

Active Area(mm) 473.8 x 296.1

Pixel Pitch(mm) 0.282

Mode BTNIII

Number of Colors 16.7M

Color Gamut(%) 72

Contrast Ratio(typ.) 1,000:1

Brightness(cd/m2) *300 / 450

Response Time(ms at 25°C) 5

Viewing Angle(U/D/L/R) 80/80/80/80

Interface LVDS (2Ch)

Outline Dimension(mm) 493.7 x 320.1 x 16.5

Weight(g) 2,800

Production Mass Production


* Glare Option

AUO Panel

Size 22"
Model M220EW01 V1
Resolution (pixel) WSXGA+ (1680 x 1050)

Aspect Ratio 16 : 10

Active Area (mm) 473.76 x 296.1

Pixel Pitch (mm) 0.282

Mode TN

Number of Colors 16.7M

Color Saturation (%) 92

View Angle (H/V) 170 / 160

Brightness (cd/m²) 250

Contrast Ratio 1000 : 1

Response Time (ms) (at 25°C) 5 (on/off)

Power Consumption (W) 28.5

Interface 2ch LVDS

Supply Voltage (V) 5

Backlight 4 CCFL

Outline Dimensions (mm) 493.7 x 320.1 x 16.5
 
Is anyone else with the A panel finding 'noisy dithering' in the black colors? I set up a black->white and it looked awful no more than an inch from the left; I could see the pixels shifting colors (brown even) from two feet away. My S panel didn't do this; anyone else notice it? I can only really call it noisy dithering, because that's what it looks like to me.
 
Is anyone else with the A panel finding 'noisy dithering' in the black colors? I set up a black->white and it looked awful no more than an inch from the left; I could see the pixels shifting colors (brown even) from two feet away. My S panel didn't do this; anyone else notice it? I can only really call it noisy dithering, because that's what it looks like to me.

Is there any way you can photograph it? Are you hooked up DVI or VGA? I've never seen that on any of the panels I've had in my possession.
 
I was checking out an australian Forum and came across this thread!.A computer mag from australia named Atomic gave a review on 8 monitors and the sammy 226bw came in last.I dont have a link on that review because its a new issue and not yet on the net.But here is what he had to say about the review! PS! Im thinking the panel was a A Panel.!>>>

what were the chief problems with it? what monitors got the highest ratings?

OK here's a summary...
ACER AL2216W - 9/10
ASUS MW221U - 8/10
ASUS MW201U - 8/10
Viewsonic VG2030wm - 8/10
Chimei CMV 946D - 8/10
Dell E228WFP 7.5/10
Chimei CMV221D - 7/10
Samsung 226BW - 7/10

Main problems with the 226BW are; Viewing angles "abominable", Light bleed top & bottom, dark tones flickering, Price
 
Funny I read another review where it came out best lol. Dont have the link right now. Maybe later.
 
My 226BW A Panel's only weakness is the backlight. Since backlight doesn't irritate me at all, I like my monitor a lot. I wouldn't try to exchange it with an S.

There's some backlight on top, even more on bottom. It's not visible unless you specifically look for it. This is a TN panel and backlight is to be expected.

Banding is minimal and very hard to detect unless you look carefully at pictures with dark gradients. It's not an issue for me.

After some brightness-contrast-gamma adjustments, I'm getting a perfect picture now.

In short, all this talk about A vs. S is silly. If you can get an S, do so. If not, get an A. It doesn't matter. You still get great picture. S panels seem to look better by default, but after a proper calibration, you can't tell the difference between an S panel and an A panel.
 
Main problems with the 226BW are; Viewing angles "abominable", Light bleed top & bottom, dark tones flickering, Price

There's no flickering in my dark tones, light bleed isn't much and viewing angles are as good as any TN panel... and I'm using an A.

When it comes to LCD monitors, you can't trust anybody, including reviewers. Everyone seems to have a different opinion. Backlight doesn't matter at all for me, but it's critical for some people. See the monitor before buying and make your own decision. There's no other way.
 
Hey let's compare our contrast, brightness and color settings.

I'm using Brightness: 20 and Contrast: 70, Red, Blue and Green stay at 50.
Other than that I set Gamma to 0.7 in Nvidia's Control Panel.

Wat are your best settings?
 
Hi 7331! I am also enjoying my 226bw!No bad issues so far.The above wasnt my statement!it was from another forum.This was the first review i can see that the 226bw wasnt top dog.Just wanted to share it with all of you here.
 
I can't photorgraph it any more - sorry. I haven't got the A panel anymore, as I returned it for the S. I can see the dithering happening on the S panel, but it's like it's not working as hard on it. I know one of the guys on Circuit City now (1.5 hours of waiting around and looking at the same monitor will do that to you); maybe I can ask him if I can come in one day and hook it up and take a picture. I'll take the same picture off of the 226BW S panel afterwards. I need to find my jump drive to test the picture. No wireless on it yet. :)

(Tested over VGA. Maybe that's it? Or I wonder if it was the combination of the video card and the screen, or something with the port.)
 
i am loving this monitor so far, i dont really care about the viewangles, since i only sit in front of the monitor.
I however, dont like the bleeding that occers at thje bottom of my screen. my start is brighter then the rest of the screen... not a big deal, so i can live with it. I am sure if i return it, I might get something even worse. lol
 
i am loving this monitor so far, i dont really care about the viewangles, since i only sit in front of the monitor.
I however, dont like the bleeding that occers at thje bottom of my screen. my start is brighter then the rest of the screen.
What you are seeing with your Start button being brighter probably isn't bleed - it' the viewing angle. Move your head down so you are looking straight at the Start button, not looking down at it and I think you'll find the button is much better. While there, look at the top of the screen and see how much darker it is.

That is the problem - viewing angle, not bleed IMHO.
 
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