Ryzen 5 2600 high idle temps and temp spikes

nE0n1nja

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Jun 26, 2020
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Hi everyone, I built a new PC 3-4 days ago. Everything is fine, but the temperatures are kind of high. Under load (gaming) it doesn't go above 75C, but on idle it constantly sits at 57-58C.
I also noticed that in certain moments the temperatures suddenly spike up to like 67-68C, the fan ramps up (audible) and then they go down again.

I am using ASUS's own fan control software. I just clicked the "Fan Tuning" option and that was it.
In the attached picture you can notice the sudden spikes and when those happened all I did was go to a certain website in Chrome. I didn't even open up Chrome, it was already running, I just opened a new tab and clicked on some images on the website.

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Are these spikes normal? Should I be worried about the idle temp? Before this I was using a PC with Core i7 2600 and I never noticed spikes or temperatures like these.

The specs are:

CPU: Ryzen 5 2600 with stock Wraith Cooler
MB: ASUS Prime B450M-A
RAM: Kingston HyperX FURY 2x8GB DDR4 3200MHz
GPU: GTX 960 4GB GIGABYTE Wind Force OC edition or something
Case: Cooler Master MB 520 with 2 fans - 1 intake and 1 ehxaust

Thank you for any advice!
 
check the auto voltage make sure it's correct, also make sure you are using ryzen power plan that comes with the latest chipset drivers or use the windows balanced plan if you have 1909 or newer. that should likely solve the idle temp problems.. if it doesn't then you might have an issue with the heatsink not being mounted properly or tight enough.

as far as the spikes go it's pretty normal, if you turn on the fan smoothing option to 2 or 3 seconds it won't ramp up and down so quickly due to instant load spikes.
 
Thank you both for the replies! Well, the fan smoothing option solved the quick ramp ups, so that's good.

But, the Ryzen power plan already was selected. I also tried with the Windows Balanced plan but it didn't make any difference. As for the voltage, I haven't touched anything, how can I check if it's correct or not? It's just set on Auto.

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And I re-pasted and re-seated the heatsink yesterday. Pretty sure I tightened it all the way down.. The screws wouldn't go any further and the cooler sits pretty firmly. It did lower the temps for a few degrees, they were 2-3 degrees higher with the stock thermal paste. I don't know, I can't see anything obviously wrong.
I have the same idle temps as my 2012 laptop 😕
 
go into your bios and see what the cpu voltage is. a lot of boards give it extra juice, so that may be it. also, whats your ambient temp?
 
yeah that looks fine. 27c will bump up temps a little but it should be idling in high 30s. what speed is it idling at? maybe grab hwinfo and see what it says,
 
Went down to 53C for a brief moment but only for a minute and then it was back up in the high 50s again. Basically any time I'm doing anything, even just using File Explorer it sits in the high 50s.

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Sorry, too many screenshots, forgot to include this one:

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Checked the bios for the speed settings but I'm not sure what to look for..
 
Sorry, too many screenshots, forgot to include this one:

View attachment 256988

Checked the bios for the speed settings but I'm not sure what to look for..
yeah i just checked in my bios, which should be close to yours, and i dont see any of the speed control stuff. so never mind that. try taking your side panel off and see if it goes down at all. maybe air flow isnt good enough.
 
Alright, I took the side panel off for 10-15 minutes and the temperature stabilized at 49-50. I don't understand how the airflow can't be good. It's a pretty spacious case.

IMG_20200627_211628.jpg



Btw aren't the idle clocks I posted above too high? I asked my friend to send me a shot of his i7 and his look pretty different:
viber_image_2020-06-27_21-11-11.jpg
 
Alright, I took the side panel off for 10-15 minutes and the temperature stabilized at 49-50. I don't understand how the airflow can't be good. It's a pretty spacious case.

View attachment 256992


Btw aren't the idle clocks I posted above too high? I asked my friend to send me a shot of his i7 and his look pretty different:
View attachment 256993
still a little high.
it might be his power plan or even just that its intel. you can lower the min cpu frequency in the power plan see if it goes lower.
what are those fans? they may not be moving much air. you might be better off having both as intake and just let it exhaust out the top and back vent.
 
Alright, I took the side panel off for 10-15 minutes and the temperature stabilized at 49-50. I don't understand how the airflow can't be good. It's a pretty spacious case.

View attachment 256992

Problem is glaringly obvious, the cooler. Low profile cheap aluminum only blow down coolers are junk, you're not going to ever get good temps with them. I'll give AMD credit for using a slightly better fan than Intel, but the light and cheap extruded aluminum is still the limiting factor.

Quite literally any cooler with heatpipes will be better than that cooler, whether it be blowdown or tower. My go to cooler is a Hyper 212 plus or evo, but other coolers like the Deep Cool GAMMAXX 400, Zalman CNPS5X and Cooler Master Hyper TX3 are fine too.
 
still a little high.
it might be his power plan or even just that its intel. you can lower the min cpu frequency in the power plan see if it goes lower.
what are those fans? they may not be moving much air. you might be better off having both as intake and just let it exhaust out the top and back vent.

The "Minimum processor state" in the power plan was set to 90% by default, lowered it to 20% but nothing changed.
The exhaust fan came with the case, not sure about the exact model but it's probably pretty generic. The intake fan is MASTERFAN MF120R RGB. Instead of placing them both as intake at the front, do you think it can be a good idea to place the exhaust one as an intake -but on the top? So it will blow directly towards the CPU. The case has a dust filter there.

Problem is glaringly obvious, the cooler. Low profile cheap aluminum only blow down coolers are junk, you're not going to ever get good temps with them. I'll give AMD credit for using a slightly better fan than Intel, but the light and cheap extruded aluminum is still the limiting factor.

Quite literally any cooler with heatpipes will be better than that cooler, whether it be blowdown or tower. My go to cooler is a Hyper 212 plus or evo, but other coolers like the Deep Cool GAMMAXX 400, Zalman CNPS5X and Cooler Master Hyper TX3 are fine too.

I really hope that's the problem and nothing more serious. I would get an aftermarket cooler but I kinda spent all my budget on the PC so I'll have to wait until the next month. I'm looking at Cooler Master Hyper 212 RGB Black Edition.
 
Problem is glaringly obvious, the cooler. Low profile cheap aluminum only blow down coolers are junk, you're not going to ever get good temps with them. I'll give AMD credit for using a slightly better fan than Intel, but the light and cheap extruded aluminum is still the limiting factor.

Quite literally any cooler with heatpipes will be better than that cooler, whether it be blowdown or tower. My go to cooler is a Hyper 212 plus or evo, but other coolers like the Deep Cool GAMMAXX 400, Zalman CNPS5X and Cooler Master Hyper TX3 are fine too.

The stock Ryzen coolers are more than capable of handling a 2600. The problem seems more likely tied to voltage control. I would say disable MCE in your BIOS to start.

Another thing to note here: idle temps are really not that important whatsoever. Pay more attention to temps under load. Your temps under load are abnormally high, closer to what one would expect from a gaming laptop. Of course you can buy a new cooler, but that misses the point!
 
The main issue you're seeing is the fact that the cooler you have isn't very good. It's not terrible but it's also not very good. I believe the 2600 non-x comes with the Wraith Stealth cooler. That's not even as good as the Wraith Tower which is what the 2600x comes with. I used the stock cooler with my 2600x for a while and while it cooled adequately it definitely could have used improvement. I replaced it with a Hyper 212 EVO when I caught it on sale for $25 and it was a great deal. Idle and load temps dropped considerably.

I rarely ever go above 65C with all 12 threads loaded down now and my ambient is only 1C or 2C below yours most of the time. I'm talking about full load on all threads. This is normally when running a distributed computing project or video encoding. It's also extremely rare that I drop below 4Ghz all core boost. That all said, I am running a push/pull configuration with the Hyper 212 Evo as I had a spare 120mm fan sitting around and that did drop temps by a few degrees over the single stock fan.

As far as software tweaks and settings go, you've done just about everything I know to do in order to get temps under control. The stock Wraith Stealth heatsink is the primary cause for the higher temps and that won't change until you change that heatsink.
 
The stock Ryzen coolers are more than capable of handling a 2600. The problem seems more likely tied to voltage control. I would say disable MCE in your BIOS to start.

The Wraith Stealth is NOT more than capable of handling the 2600, even the Wraith spire is junk. If by your definition "capable" is cooking at near thermal junction under load, then sure it is. Both coolers have the same crappy performance as Intel stock HSFs have had for the past 15 years.



He uses the Ryzen 5 1400, but both that CPU and the 2600 have the same 65W TDP. Under load, the CPU is cooking at a nice 88C with the Stealth (the cooler the OP has) and just a bit less at 84C with the Spire. You may argue that the figures are under thermal junction, but CPUs do not like running that hot and tend to get unstable. It certainly doesn't do the motherboard any favors, nor the capacitors around the CPU socket. The CPU may also be throttling when that hot, but no figures are given for clock speed.

Both the Stealth and the Spire have no business on a CPU that draws more than 45W. The only really decent stock AMD cooler is the Wraith Max or Wraith Prism, which are basically the same cooler, but the latter has RGB.

Another thing to note here: idle temps are really not that important whatsoever. Pay more attention to temps under load. Your temps under load are abnormally high, closer to what one would expect from a gaming laptop. Of course you can buy a new cooler, but that misses the point!

Idle temps are most certainly important. The higher the idle temperature, the small the margin you have to thermal junction. 50-60C idle is something that should be left in the past with crappy aluminum coolers we used to have to deal with because better options weren't widely available.
 
My Ryzen 2600 idles at 36C (39C with browser open), with ambient at 27C. CPU fan at 1400RPM out of 2600RPM max. I would suggest better cooler and if possible, put a small fan to blow on the VRM of your motherboard, because speaking from AM3+ experience, the heat from the VRM, ultimately spreads also towards the socket, heating the CPU itself and your motherboard has no heatsinks on the mosfets. And it has 3 mosfets per phase and probably not the best mosfets either. My PC doesn't have good case ventilation, it is geared for silence. But the motherboard (MSI B450 gaming plus), has 4 mosfets per phase, big VRM heatsinks, i use Scythe Katana3 as CPU Cooler and i have one 60mm fan blowing on the VRM and 1x100mm 1000RPM slim Scythe fan blowing at the back side of the motherboard. Old habbits from AM3+ times that die hard but pay off a lot...

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My Ryzen 2600 idles at 36C (39C with browser open), with ambient at 27C. CPU fan at 1400RPM out of 2600RPM max. I would suggest better cooler and if possible, put a small fan to blow on the VRM of your motherboard, because speaking from AM3+ experience, the heat from the VRM, ultimately spreads also towards the socket, heating the CPU itself and your motherboard has no heatsinks on the mosfets. And it has 3 mosfets per phase and probably not the best mosfets either. My PC doesn't have good case ventilation, it is geared for silence. But the motherboard (MSI B450 gaming plus), has 4 mosfets per phase, big VRM heatsinks, i use Scythe Katana3 as CPU Cooler and i have one 60mm fan blowing on the VRM and 1x100mm 1000RPM slim Scythe fan blowing at the back side of the motherboard. Old habbits from AM3+ times that die hard but pay off a lot...

View attachment 257126

May I ask what version of HWMonitor you're using? Because the clocks tab looks different than mine. Is it because of the motherboard? Also, look at my clock speeds, they're much higher than yours and I'm not doing anything except browsing this forum.

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As far as software tweaks and settings go, you've done just about everything I know to do in order to get temps under control. The stock Wraith Stealth heatsink is the primary cause for the higher temps and that won't change until you change that heatsink.

I'll definitely change the heatsink next month. But I keep thinking there's something more to be done software-wise...

And maybe this is stupid but I can't seem to find MCE in the BIOS. I look under AI Tweaker but there's no such option.
 
May I ask what version of HWMonitor you're using? Because the clocks tab looks different than mine. Is it because of the motherboard? Also, look at my clock speeds, they're much higher than yours and I'm not doing anything except browsing this forum.

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I'd think something is wrong with the C-States in the firmware, like they're not turned on. Or AMD Cool'n'Quiet isn't enabled if the lowest clock you're getting is 2500 MHz.

You may want to check for newer firmware versions for that motherboard. I have that same ASUS board in use as a router and server, and earlier firmware versions did have weird issues.
 
May I ask what version of HWMonitor you're using? Because the clocks tab looks different than mine. Is it because of the motherboard? Also, look at my clock speeds, they're much higher than yours and I'm not doing anything except browsing this forum.

View attachment 257127




I'll definitely change the heatsink next month. But I keep thinking there's something more to be done software-wise...

And maybe this is stupid but I can't seem to find MCE in the BIOS. I look under AI Tweaker but there's no such option.


It's not HWMonitor. It's Open Hardware Monitor. Your CPU should not be running so high clocks all the time. There is either something in the background that is eating CPU cycles or something wrong with your power plan. I am on Win7, using "balanced" and works perfectly. The cores should drop down at idle.
 
Here's also from HWInfo. Cores drop at idle. For the record, i don't use the latest BIOS, but the last BIOS that MSI had available before the introduction of Ryzen 3000 series (which also brought the simplified GUI).

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I'd think something is wrong with the C-States in the firmware, like they're not turned on. Or AMD Cool'n'Quiet isn't enabled if the lowest clock you're getting is 2500 MHz.

You may want to check for newer firmware versions for that motherboard. I have that same ASUS board in use as a router and server, and earlier firmware versions did have weird issues.

The BIOS version is 2006, same as the latest they have on their site https://www.asus.com/Motherboards/PRIME-B450M-A/HelpDesk_BIOS/
Couldn't find AMD Cool'nQuiet in the BIOS..
Closest thing to the C-States thing is this "Global C-state Control", which is set to "Auto".

IMG_20200628_102011.jpg


Btw I re-positioned the exhaust fan as an intake fan from the top and it didn't change a thing lol.
 
The BIOS version is 2006, same as the latest they have on their site https://www.asus.com/Motherboards/PRIME-B450M-A/HelpDesk_BIOS/
Couldn't find AMD Cool'nQuiet in the BIOS..
Closest thing to the C-States thing is this "Global C-state Control", which is set to "Auto".

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Btw I re-positioned the exhaust fan as an intake fan from the top and it didn't change a thing lol.

Hmm, according to some info on Google, appears this board doesn't have C'n'Q options like some other boards have. It's weird that the CPU isn't dropping further than 2500 MHz unless there's some background task running preventing it from idling down further.

And yeah, it really doesn't matter what type of fan you use, that aluminum slug can't pull heat out of the CPU efficiently enough to get temps any lower. I mean you could go crazy and try slapping a 8000 RPM delta fan on it, but you'd be driven insane from the jet engine noise.

 
My current build at idle for comparison and another data point - asrock b450m, ryzen 5 2600, stock cooler, 16gb of whatever corsair memory was on sale at the time, antec 300 case from back in the day with it's 2 stock exhaust fans, Radeon R9 290, windows 10. In Hawaii so it's warm most days.

Not an optimal build by any means but it works for me. Highest sustained temp I remember seeing under load is 71 C
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It's weird that the CPU isn't dropping further than 2500 MHz unless there's some background task running preventing it from idling down further.

So I guess that's like looking for a needle in a haystack...

lt1s10 thanks a lot for sharing this! Definitely something wrong with my system.. :unsure:
 
I'm getting the same minimum clocks on a 2600x, lowest it goes is around ~2200 with the power plan minimum set to 5%. I always assumed it was normal. I also got around the same temps in a Fractal Define R3 with the stock cooler. Games were around ~75 c. 100% utilization via maxed out thread video encoding, or a stress test would get up to 95 c and then the CPU would throttle down.

Upgraded to a NH-D15S and the same tests that would get to 95 c and then throttle now sit at around 72-75 c. Games down to low 60s, and idle temps when at the 5% min clocks are now 30 or below.
 
I'd think something is wrong with the C-States in the firmware, like they're not turned on. Or AMD Cool'n'Quiet isn't enabled if the lowest clock you're getting is 2500 MHz.

You may want to check for newer firmware versions for that motherboard. I have that same ASUS board in use as a router and server, and earlier firmware versions did have weird issues.

actually the 2500 is normal because hwinfo can only see down to the minimum multiplier in the bios which is what the api reports and that is 25x for that board(some of the earlier bios could go down to 20x and anywhere between those two numbers), the cpu it's self can step down all the way to .25x which only ryzen master could see until the recent beta version of hwinfo64 was released(the one with the offset voltage detection).
 
actually the 2500 is normal because hwinfo can only see down to the minimum multiplier in the bios which is what the api reports and that is 25x for that board(some of the earlier bios could go down to 20x and anywhere between those two numbers), the cpu it's self can step down all the way to .25x which only ryzen master could see until the recent beta version of hwinfo64 was released(the one with the offset voltage detection).

Faethon's post above shows all but one core going down to a minimum of 1400 MHz, with the oddball out being at 1240 MHz, which lead me to believe some weirdness is going on with power management.

In Linux, my Ryzen 7 2700x will idle cores down to 1800 MHz.
 
Faethon's post above shows all but one core going down to a minimum of 1400 MHz, with the oddball out being at 1240 MHz, which lead me to believe some weirdness is going on with power management.

In Linux, my Ryzen 7 2700x will idle cores down to 1800 MHz.

in HWinfo my 3600 will never go below 3354 on any core, my 2600x never shows below 2500. my 1600 which was on a x370 taichi never went below 1800 as the reported minimum.

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6.12.3930 on the left, 6.27-4185(apparently 6.27 is out of beta now) on the right, also note that HWinfo still can't actually detect the multiplier below 33.6x even though you can see the displayed effective clocks which match ryzen master other than it not being able to show which cores are actually parked. HWinfo's good but it's only as good as the information being reported to it.

i'd actually be interested to see what it shows for faethon's effective clocks since i can't actually access my other system and try the newer version of hwinfo on it since i'd have to disconnect everything from the work PC that's currently there(stupid work from home crap, i want my flight sim back grrrr..)
 
Just tried it, I don't see much of a difference.

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my 2600x only goes down to 3000 but i always thought it was because i had min cpu freq at 75%. lowering it to 50% didnt change at all. guessing thats normal then. maybe it is all down to the heatsink then. technically it is within amds acceptable range. when you can, moving up to a better tower cooler would be a good idea. something like the 212 or even one of these is a steal if you dont mind the color: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B075CXTKWC/?tag=arctic07-20&th=1
 
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my 2600x only goes down to 3000 but i always thought it was because i had min cpu freq at 75%. lowering it to 50% didnt change at all. guessing thats normal then. maybe it is all down to the heatsink then. technically it is within amds acceptable range. when you can, moving up to a better tower cooler would be a good idea. something like the 212 or even one of these is a steal if you dont mind the color: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B075CXTKWC/?tag=arctic07-20&th=1

Yep, that's my next upgrade, gonna grab one in the next couple of weeks.. Seeing as I've I tried everything else suggested here, I'm gonna put the issue to rest for now, and live with a slightly hotter machine than what I'm usually used to. Unless someone comes up with some new advice I didn't already try :D
Thanks a lot for everyone's help!
 
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in HWinfo my 3600 will never go below 3354 on any core, my 2600x never shows below 2500. my 1600 which was on a x370 taichi never went below 1800 as the reported minimum.

View attachment 257152 View attachment 257153

6.12.3930 on the left, 6.27-4185(apparently 6.27 is out of beta now) on the right, also note that HWinfo still can't actually detect the multiplier below 33.6x even though you can see the displayed effective clocks which match ryzen master other than it not being able to show which cores are actually parked. HWinfo's good but it's only as good as the information being reported to it.

i'd actually be interested to see what it shows for faethon's effective clocks since i can't actually access my other system and try the newer version of hwinfo on it since i'd have to disconnect everything from the work PC that's currently there(stupid work from home crap, i want my flight sim back grrrr..)


Unfortunately, i still run v.6.12 of HWInfo, which doesn't show effective clocks. And i intend to stay with this version, since for my taste, it already shows a bit too much, to the point i see it as clutter. I do have CPU-Z though too, in case you 're interested. This is right now, with browser open:

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lt1s10 also posted screenshot with speed down to 1240 Mhz. Oh and i do run the flawless OS that is Win7x64.
 
The Wraith Stealth is NOT more than capable of handling the 2600, even the Wraith spire is junk. If by your definition "capable" is cooking at near thermal junction under load, then sure it is. Both coolers have the same crappy performance as Intel stock HSFs have had for the past 15 years.



He uses the Ryzen 5 1400, but both that CPU and the 2600 have the same 65W TDP. Under load, the CPU is cooking at a nice 88C with the Stealth (the cooler the OP has) and just a bit less at 84C with the Spire. You may argue that the figures are under thermal junction, but CPUs do not like running that hot and tend to get unstable. It certainly doesn't do the motherboard any favors, nor the capacitors around the CPU socket. The CPU may also be throttling when that hot, but no figures are given for clock speed.

Both the Stealth and the Spire have no business on a CPU that draws more than 45W. The only really decent stock AMD cooler is the Wraith Max or Wraith Prism, which are basically the same cooler, but the latter has RGB.



Idle temps are most certainly important. The higher the idle temperature, the small the margin you have to thermal junction. 50-60C idle is something that should be left in the past with crappy aluminum coolers we used to have to deal with because better options weren't widely available.


I think the main issue with the data points you've provided is that the thermals you reference are an OC from 3.4 GHz stock to 3.8 GHz all-core. So of course in a stress-test scenario with +400 MHz all-core (which in and of itself is silly to do on Ryzen 2000+, especially for the 2600s target audience) you see temperatures a bit below TJ Max.

Stock coolers are intended for stock settings, and in that regard the Wraith Stealth and its relatives perform more than adequately. The video you posted actually backs up what I am saying.

In addition, and this may be controversial to say, precision boost on Ryzen 2000 and newer kind of defeats the purpose of traditional all-core OCs; of course with the exception being more niche stuff.
 
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