Ryzen 4 Reviews Are Out.

I’m a 4K gamer as well so I doubt the 7700X will make a huge difference, but I’d be curious to see you run an in game benchmark at 1080p & 1440p ultra settlings. Stock vs. 5500 MHz and 5700 MHz.

There’s a shadow of the Tomb raider demo on steam you can use. You could also use the CP2077 built in benchmark if you have it. Plenty of games here:

https://xsreviews.co.uk/news/games-with-built-in-benchmarks-how-to-benchmark-your-pc/
Hey I started testing your suggestion today and as I figured same results with CPU clock speed and boy does the AMD 7700X spank my 12900K in this game.By a full 14FPS. I actually stopped testing because it will be the same results for SOTTR an alike.

12900K 4900Mhz vs 12900K 5400Mhz DDR4


AMD 7700X 5000Mhz all core vs AMD 7700X 5700Mhz all core DDR5
7700x-5000-vs-5700.jpg
 
Hey I started testing your suggestion today and as I figured same results with CPU clock speed and boy does the AMD 7700X spank my 12900K in this game.By a full 14FPS. I actually stopped testing because it will be the same results for SOTTR an alike.

12900K 4900Mhz vs 12900K 5400Mhz DDR4


AMD 7700X 5000Mhz all core vs AMD 7700X 5700Mhz all core DDR5
View attachment 516324
Awesome! Thanks for doing this. Doesn't seem there's much of a gain going from 5Ghz to 5.7Ghz in this game.
 
Awesome! Thanks for doing this. Doesn't seem there's much of a gain going from 5Ghz to 5.7Ghz in this game.
Your welcome,sorry I took so long.Yes your correct no FPS gain. Will be the same on most games.Good thing for PC gaming you good unclock the hell outta AM% and still have same PC Gaming performance
 
Sorry I do not own the game.

Awesome share your results when complete.I did really like my 2600X and did the same testing years ago.I do not remember getting any difference in performance but I was only using 2600X and 1080Ti.

I don't want to derail this thread too much, but I've compiled my results. Some games see some impressive gains - CP2077 (No RT), RB6 Extraction, and WDL (No RT)
Decent gains just from using some cheap vipers B-Die. Of course nobody should be using an 2600X with a 3090 :) - Still, the test shows when CPU limited - Memory matters.

1664979189035.png
 
That is awesome chart thanks for sharing. I also had some cheap DDR4 4133 vipers B-Die no temp sensors if I recall correctly but they were fine.
 
Got the rig built - first time I have seen this message from AIDA64...I'm running the latest beta and everything...

(ignore the PCIE power cable rat's nest - running iGPU until 4090 releases)

7950X
32GB G.Skill 6000MHz / 30 CL (F5-6000J3038F16GX2-TZ5NR)
ASUS X670E Crosshair GENE microATX
NZXT X63 280MM AIO
WD SN850X 4TB NVME SSD
Corsair AX1600i PSU
Lian Li 011 AIR MINI case

EDIT: for future internet people - the radiator of the Arctic Liquid Freezer II 280MM is too large to fit in this case with a microATX / mATX mobo. Hence why I went with the solid (but not as good) NZXT X63. Front mount wasn’t an option because I need all 363MM of GPU clearance with the monster 4xxx series en route…


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I get the same message on both AIDA64 Extreme/Engineering.Heck even one of my AIDA keys got blocked on the extreme edition after update,my key was 4-5 years old but I am ok with it.
 
Anyone have these problem with their X670 mobo?.
- Keyboard and mouse plugged into USB hub doesn't work until Windows finished booting (was working just fine on the old X570 mobo).
- Computer won't wake up from sleep.

All BIOS settings are at "Optimized Default" & EXPO profile loaded.
Gigabyte X670 Aorus Elite AX + Ryzen 7900X + 32GB GSkill Flare DDR5 + EVGA 850W G2 PSU.
 
Anyone have these problem with their X670 mobo?.
- Keyboard and mouse plugged into USB hub doesn't work until Windows finished booting (was working just fine on the old X570 mobo).
- Computer won't wake up from sleep.

All BIOS settings are at "Optimized Default" & EXPO profile loaded.
Gigabyte X670 Aorus Elite AX + Ryzen 7900X + 32GB GSkill Flare DDR5 + EVGA 850W G2 PSU.
I have not had the issue (yet) with my ASUS X670E Crosshair GENE and the 0614 beta BIOS from 9/26 (yolo). Using EXPO only.

EDIT: oh crap. I do not use sleep. Never have - Intel or AMD (desktops, at least). Sorry. Figured everyone put full performance mode on and just turn off the monitor. :)
 
Man idk what happened here Lmao. Never had it happen before. I turned on my PC and heard loud pops in a row. Unplugged everything and used the evga psy connector and that worked fine. I am wondering if I had a bad mobo where capacitors popped. Got the asus 670e white mobo. Hard to tell with all the damn covers. Time is an issue. Almost wanna pack everything and return it Lmao.
 
Man idk what happened here Lmao. Never had it happen before. I turned on my PC and heard loud pops in a row. Unplugged everything and used the evga psy connector and that worked fine. I am wondering if I had a bad mobo where capacitors popped. Got the asus 670e white mobo. Hard to tell with all the damn covers. Time is an issue. Almost wanna pack everything and return it Lmao.
Dude that sucks. Sorry to hear man. Within the 30 day window it is probably best if it is truly hosed.

EDIT: new posted 10/07/2022 ASUS BIOS (for X670E GENE - probably for others as well) - version 0705 and date is 10/05/2022. Not a beta like the previous (0614) one. No changelog listed. YOLO! Updating now.

EDIT2: no problems. EXPO I works as before with my 6000/CL30 kit.
 
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Man idk what happened here Lmao. Never had it happen before. I turned on my PC and heard loud pops in a row. Unplugged everything and used the evga psy connector and that worked fine. I am wondering if I had a bad mobo where capacitors popped. Got the asus 670e white mobo. Hard to tell with all the damn covers. Time is an issue. Almost wanna pack everything and return it Lmao.
Definitely sounds like some capacitors blew up :( Have you checked the PSU?
 
Definitely sounds like some capacitors blew up :( Have you checked the PSU?

It was first turn on. I can’t see for what’s visible in mobo. I tried the power supply with the jumper it turned on fine so wondering what the hell happened, maybe no load on it and damage already done. May be it was power supply that popped on first try. The board has so many damn heat sinks can’t really take it all apart lmao. From what I saw there was nothing visible. Is that normally some smell or smoke that I should notice? If felts like it came from the back where the power supply is at. Gonna Try another power supply to see if they boots it.


I mean it was really loud pops though. I don’t think mobo capacitors would pop that loud. Kinda spooked me almost like a loud fireworks. No smoke though. Really weird experience.
 
I mean it was really loud pops though. I don’t think mobo capacitors would pop that loud. Kinda spooked me almost like a loud fireworks. No smoke though. Really weird experience.
They can be pretty loud. Sounds like something definitely died but I wouldn't retry the same PSU if you can try a spare. If you have an old worthless GPU lying around you could maybe try to get the board to post and see if it displays an error as expected. I wouldn't want to retest with the CPU in until you figure out what blew up. Also might be easier to just return everything and retry with known good components.

 
They can be pretty loud. Sounds like something definitely died but I wouldn't retry the same PSU if you can try a spare. If you have an old worthless GPU lying around you could maybe try to get the board to post and see if it displays an error as expected. I wouldn't want to retest with the CPU in until you figure out what blew up. Also might be easier to just return everything and retry with known good components.


Man this video is legit I did see brown material by one of the power supply plug. I took a screenshot of that in the video. I cleaned it out. It was on the back on some wires. I think it popped out of power supply.

It looked like that brown material came out do the modular plug locations. I cleaned it off he cables but the module inputs still had some residue. So looks like capacitors did blow up in power supply. Crazy it was brand new evga G2 1300w.

When I opened the back panel I was like I don’t remember anything with a thin rope Lmao. The material looked exactly like the one that popped in that video.

I am surprised but makes sense. If shit is bad form the go it usually pops on first try. This was bad unit I think to begin with.
 

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They can be pretty loud. Sounds like something definitely died but I wouldn't retry the same PSU if you can try a spare. If you have an old worthless GPU lying around you could maybe try to get the board to post and see if it displays an error as expected. I wouldn't want to retest with the CPU in until you figure out what blew up. Also might be easier to just return everything and retry with known good components.


Looks like it was power supply. It did boot with another crappy power supply. But I did get the FTM corrupt new cpu might have been installed press Y to continue or if you didn’t change CPU. My damn keyboard is stupid the board doesn’t seem to pick up the y or n command it asks for lmao. Seen a lot of people with amd chipsets get this random times. Sometimes when changing CPU and sometimes even without it. Let’s see how far I get Lmao. It did boot atleast with the other power supply.
 
You guys keep an eye on soc and memory controller voltages.

Asrock thinks 1.3 volts is appropriate for soc and vdd_misc with its dependent rails at 1.2

I set soc to 1.1 and vdd_misc to 1.75 and the others to 1.1 and 2000 fclock and 6,000 ram are still stable.
 
Looks like it was power supply. It did boot with another crappy power supply. But I did get the FTM corrupt new cpu might have been installed press Y to continue or if you didn’t change CPU. My damn keyboard is stupid the board doesn’t seem to pick up the y or n command it asks for lmao. Seen a lot of people with amd chipsets get this random times. Sometimes when changing CPU and sometimes even without it. Let’s see how far I get Lmao. It did boot atleast with the other power supply.
That's normal. You'll need to hit F1 or whatever to go into the BIOS and set your XMP settings anyway.
 
You guys keep an eye on soc and memory controller voltages.

Asrock thinks 1.3 volts is appropriate for soc and vdd_misc with its dependent rails at 1.2

I set soc to 1.1 and vdd_misc to 1.75 and the others to 1.1 and 2000 fclock and 6,000 ram are still stable.
I went with Asrock Motherboard first time ever.I am 100% satisfied with my system but I will never buy an Asrock motherboard again.
I have my reason and complaints but no reason to cry over spilt milk. I emailed Asrock technical support got the can remark on a problem not even related to the email.
 
2,000 points off what TechSpot got in CINEBENCH R23 with my 7950X.

A few notes as to why:
- They used a Be Quiet! 360MM AIO. I used a NZXT Kraken X63 280MM AIO
- I also realized the X63 pump was set to "Silent" (installed their CAM software and moved it to "Performance" going forward).

Also noticed they were hitting 5,850 MHz maximum speeds while I have only seen 5,750 MHz as my maximum. Definitely - the cooler matters! I'm stuck with this particular 280MM (wanted the Arctic Liquid Freezer II 280MM but the radiator is too large for my build) so I may eventually get some Noctua fans to kick things up a notch. We will see. Using Thermal Grizzy Kryonaut TIM - so all good there.

cinebench.jpg
 
2,000 points off what TechSpot got in CINEBENCH R23 with my 7950X.

A few notes as to why:
- They used a Be Quiet! 360MM AIO. I used a NZXT Kraken X63 280MM AIO
- I also realized the X63 pump was set to "Silent" (installed their CAM software and moved it to "Performance" going forward).

Also noticed they were hitting 5,850 MHz maximum speeds while I have only seen 5,750 MHz as my maximum. Definitely - the cooler matters! I'm stuck with this particular 280MM (wanted the Arctic Liquid Freezer II 280MM but the radiator is too large for my build) so I may eventually get some Noctua fans to kick things up a notch. We will see. Using Thermal Grizzy Kryonaut TIM - so all good there.

View attachment 516912
Never been a doubt that the cooler maters. That chonky boy of an IHS is no joke!
 
2,000 points off what TechSpot got in CINEBENCH R23 with my 7950X.

A few notes as to why:
- They used a Be Quiet! 360MM AIO. I used a NZXT Kraken X63 280MM AIO
- I also realized the X63 pump was set to "Silent" (installed their CAM software and moved it to "Performance" going forward).

Also noticed they were hitting 5,850 MHz maximum speeds while I have only seen 5,750 MHz as my maximum. Definitely - the cooler matters! I'm stuck with this particular 280MM (wanted the Arctic Liquid Freezer II 280MM but the radiator is too large for my build) so I may eventually get some Noctua fans to kick things up a notch. We will see. Using Thermal Grizzy Kryonaut TIM - so all good there.

View attachment 516912
Mine is 38k with -12 curve optimizer and the ek 360 aio.
 
Mine is 38k with -12 curve optimizer and the ek 360 aio.
That’s awesome. I built for a smaller size and my best laid plans failed (Arctic 280MM radiator being too big) - but have some loud AF Noctua fans en route to help the X63 280MM AIO stay cooler. Worked with my 5800X3D rig!
 
Man having horrible issues installing windows. Stuck at the damn connect to network screen and it doesn’t show anything. Neither Ethernet which I have connected or wireless. I hit shift f10 to do the bypass and after that point my keyboard won’t work anymore when the dos pop up comes up. My wireless mouse doesn’t work either. Idk what’s up with these USB ports on the board. After I replaced the brand new blown power supply it boots fine updated to latest bios with flash back. At this point about to warp it up and send everything back over the next 30 days.

Funny I can use my keyboard all the way through. Ethernet has green light. Nothing wireless seems to work on the. keyboard and mouse side. Weird enough bios does see all the usb devices connected. Flash drive with os, says I have one mouse connected and one keyboard.

Had to use my wired keyboard to even get in the bios.

Update. So my laptop wireless mouse works lmao. Seems like Logitech lightning receivers have issues.

But still no network during windows 11 install and can’t bypass it cuz my computer. Keyboard stops working here. When I try to bypass it.
 

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Man having horrible issues installing windows. Stuck at the damn connect to network screen and it doesn’t show anything. Neither Ethernet which I have connected or wireless. I hit shift f10 to do the bypass and after that point my keyboard won’t work anymore when the dos pop up comes up. My wireless mouse doesn’t work either. Idk what’s up with these USB ports on the board. After I replaced the brand new blown power supply it boots fine updated to latest bios with flash back. At this point about to warp it up and send everything back over the next 30 days.

Funny I can use my keyboard all the way through. Ethernet has green light. Nothing wireless seems to work on the. keyboard and mouse side. Weird enough bios does see all the usb devices connected. Flash drive with os, says I have one mouse connected and one keyboard.

Had to use my wired keyboard to even get in the bios.

Update. So my laptop wireless mouse works lmao. Seems like Logitech lightning receivers have issues.

But still no network during windows 11 install and can’t bypass it cuz my computer. Keyboard stops working here. When I try to bypass it.
You could look for legacy usb settings in the bios.
Maybe try Windows 10 and install all the drivers, then update to windows 11.
 
You could look for legacy usb settings in the bios.
Maybe try Windows 10 and install all the drivers, then update to windows 11.
Lmao I got through. It might have been my Ethernet connection. What’s stupid is the damn resolution on windows 11. it’s doing some weird dpi upscale. Look at this setup. Lmao how am I suppose to select. 🤣🤣🤣 how would you like to setup your OC. Big ass letters. 🤣🤣 I am gonna redo the install on another Monitor. I have ark55 I think it was tripping on scaling. Going to connect it to my 27 inch I have spare and redo the install. 🤣


Oh and found out to bypass my dumb ass had to click inside of the dos window to type. Forgot about that lol.
 

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2,000 points off what TechSpot got in CINEBENCH R23 with my 7950X.

A few notes as to why:
- They used a Be Quiet! 360MM AIO. I used a NZXT Kraken X63 280MM AIO
- I also realized the X63 pump was set to "Silent" (installed their CAM software and moved it to "Performance" going forward).

Also noticed they were hitting 5,850 MHz maximum speeds while I have only seen 5,750 MHz as my maximum. Definitely - the cooler matters! I'm stuck with this particular 280MM (wanted the Arctic Liquid Freezer II 280MM but the radiator is too large for my build) so I may eventually get some Noctua fans to kick things up a notch. We will see. Using Thermal Grizzy Kryonaut TIM - so all good there.

View attachment 516912

I am still tweeking it. I have the lian li 360m. I think the processor is designed to max out 95 and squeeze out as much as possible no matter what. I don't think the cooler matters in temps unless you tweak it and put a temp limit and try go optimize the curve. This is mine with negative 20 on curve optimizer and temp limit set to 85. I am still tweaking it not sure if its 100% stable but will find out eventually. Since not really changing other voltages just limiting temps which lowers power usage and little bit offset the curve optimizer seems to be scoring close to stock with temps at 85 now.

1665256479341.png
 
I am still tweeking it. I have the lian li 360m. I think the processor is designed to max out 95 and squeeze out as much as possible no matter what. I don't think the cooler matters in temps unless you tweak it and put a temp limit and try go optimize the curve. This is mine with negative 20 on curve optimizer and temp limit set to 85. I am still tweaking it not sure if its 100% stable but will find out eventually. Since not really changing other voltages just limiting temps which lowers power usage and little bit offset the curve optimizer seems to be scoring close to stock with temps at 85 now.

View attachment 517034
The cooler matters because it takes longer to get to 95C if it’s a better cooler. That’s more headroom.
 
The cooler matters because it takes longer to get to 95C if it’s a better cooler. That’s more headroom.
I am not saying cooler doesn’t matter at all, maybe I should have been clearer there, I guess. I am saying no matter what you got it’s going to try to maximize the performance for the temps. You can set lower temp throttle and bit of curve optimization you can keep almost the same performance. You may have slightly more but doesn't seem to be worth it. Yes, better cooler will get better results on performance indeed.
 
I am not saying cooler doesn’t matter at all, maybe I should have been clearer there, I guess. I am saying no matter what you got it’s going to try to maximize the performance for the temps. You can set lower temp throttle and bit of curve optimization you can keep almost the same performance. You may have slightly more but doesn't seem to be worth it. Yes, better cooler will get better results on performance indeed.
I hear ya. Yeah I’m 2,000 points off of your results with a stock setup - no tuning. I should get some better results by limiting voltage, perhaps. Industrial Noctua fans coming for the rad, too…that’ll help (yes, I know they’re loud AF I have them running on another rig).
 
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I hear ya. Yeah I’m 2,000 points off of your results with a stock setup - no tuning. I should get some better results by limiting voltage, perhaps. Industrial Noctua fans coming for the rad, too…that’ll help (yes, I know they’re loud AF I have them running on another rig).
I have it rigged with shitty gigaby PSU lmao, with power supply sitting outside. Can't believe my brand spanking new 1300w evga G2 popped capacitors with 2 lound bangs on first power on, those were suppose to be real goood. Now I have a 1500w corsair coming Monday or Tuesday. Can't really do any fan tweaks right now.
 
I have it rigged with shitty gigaby PSU lmao, with power supply sitting outside. Can't believe my brand spanking new 1300w evga G2 popped capacitors with 2 lound bangs on first power on, those were suppose to be real goood. Now I have a 1500w corsair coming Monday or Tuesday. Can't really do any fan tweaks right now.
😝 Talk about “fighting fire with fire”
 
I have it rigged with shitty gigaby PSU lmao, with power supply sitting outside. Can't believe my brand spanking new 1300w evga G2 popped capacitors with 2 lound bangs on first power on, those were suppose to be real goood. Now I have a 1500w corsair coming Monday or Tuesday. Can't really do any fan tweaks right now.

Ive had that same EVGA PSU in my system for almost 2 years, and been completely problem free. Its a superflower OEM PSU, and I am suprised yours blew.
 
I have it rigged with shitty gigaby PSU lmao, with power supply sitting outside. Can't believe my brand spanking new 1300w evga G2 popped capacitors with 2 lound bangs on first power on, those were suppose to be real goood. Now I have a 1500w corsair coming Monday or Tuesday. Can't really do any fan tweaks right now.
First power on is the most likely time for PSU's to blow. The only PSU's I've ever had fail do it on first power on. The rest have all run fine until I stop using them.
 
Ive had that same EVGA PSU in my system for almost 2 years, and been completely problem free. Its a superflower OEM PSU, and I am suprised yours blew.

yea me too. On first turn on. Never had it happen before or a power supply go bad on me. I think I just got a bad unit.
 
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