Running DDU leads to a Blue Screen 0xc000000e error code

Rev. Night

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I have my trusty Windows 10 HTPC that I have never really had any problems with. It's a Ryzen 3600, ASUS TUF B450 gaming , and an equally trusty Sapphire RX480. I was doing a driver update and I wanted to make sure that nothing was left behind. I have used DDU for years, so I knew the process (restart in safe mode, run DDU, it will auto-restart and boot into normal windows, then install new drivers). I was in safe mode, DDU was done, and it rebooted.

Enter the new BSOD. It gives an error code of 0xc00000e saying that a required device isn't connect or can't be accessed.

Reboot does nothing. Recovery instantly puts me back onto this screen. I can get into the BIOS and everything looks fine, the boot prompt looks fine too. But it's been a week now, and I still get stuck at this screen. Windows 10 is on an m2 nvme that is only a few years old.

Maybe this is just a coindence, but what about having DDU auto-restart (after it is done installing) would cause this error? How to fix?



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noko

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Reset your bios to default, with machine unplugged. I get the same issue with the 6900XT on two separate motherboards, B550 and TRX40. Bios, firmware etc has to remap the pcie devices is what I am thinking and Windows is updated with the new bios addressing. Let me know if this works.
 

horrorshow

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Reset your bios to default, with machine unplugged. I get the same issue with the 6900XT on two separate motherboards, B550 and TRX40. Bios, firmware etc has to remap the pcie devices is what I am thinking and Windows is updated with the new bios addressing. Let me know if this works.

Barring that: remove the CMOS battery, wait a tick, then pop it back in and boot. (Obv unplug the system first, flush the caps by holding the power button for 20-30 seconds, then reinsert said battery etc.)

(This lil trick has resolved multiple v-card detection related issues for me over the years)
 

LigTasm

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I had this last week as well. I was doing some testing on a game with different GPUs so I ran DDU when I switched to AMD and I got the same exact thing. Like horrorshow said, I ended up unplugging the power supply and resetting cmos and it booted fine the next time.
 

Rev. Night

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hmmm that didn't work tonight. I turned off the pc and unplugged the power cord and the hdmi cord. At this point, no cords are plugged in. Using a small flathead screwdriver, I took out the CMOS battery and held the power button for 20-30 seconds. Put the cmos battery back in, plug in power cable/hdmi, flip psu back on, and boot it up. Still get the BSOD 0xc000000e error.

I do all of the above all over again, this time the CMOS batter is staying out overnight. I still held the power button down again (unplugged, no cmos, psu turned off).

We shall see tomorrow
 

LigTasm

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Rev. Night

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hmmm i do have 3 drives (nvme, ssd, hdd). As I recall, I only saw 2 in the bios boot order. I'll see if the drive that is hosting windows (nvme) is listed. If not, I can try to reseat. If that doesnt work, then I guess I can get windows on a USB drive? Boot from that and then start backing up data?

ive used DDU for years. never ran into this problem before
 
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hmmm i do have 3 drives (nvme, ssd, hdd). As I recall, I only saw 2 in the bios boot order. I'll see if the drive that is hosting windows (nvme) is listed. If not, I can try to reseat. If that doesnt work, then I guess I can get windows on a USB drive? Boot from that and then start backing up data?

ive used DDU for years. never ran into this problem before
I'd just disconnect the other drives and see if you can boot. If you can't then you know it's that drive with the problem.
 

pendragon1

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hmmm i do have 3 drives (nvme, ssd, hdd). As I recall, I only saw 2 in the bios boot order. I'll see if the drive that is hosting windows (nvme) is listed.
I'd just disconnect the other drives and see if you can boot. If you can't then you know it's that drive with the problem.

that might be a good place to start....
 

Rev. Night

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So I disconnected the HDD and SDD, still get that blue error.

One thing of note. In BIOS boot menu, I can select between Windows Boot Manager (WDS500 etc...) and WDS500. They are obviously the same drive. When I select the Boot Manager, I go straight to the blue screen. When I select WDS500 (the drive), I go to a Windows Diagnostic, trying to repair Windows. It fails, but it does take me to the Advanced Options menu like Troubleshooting. Booting to safe mode doesnt work, repairing doesnt work. I can 'reset' windows, and I don't mind going that approach. Have to google the verbiage, I don't want a refresh, clean, reset, or whatever tf they call it and it wipes everything. I'm fine with a new build of windows then I have to reinstall all my old stuff.

oh and no backups/system restore points either :-/
 

noko

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Try a different pcie slot if you have one available, doesn't matter if only pcie 4x bandwidth as an option. Move it afterwards.

On my TRX40 board, took out 3090, DDU, Booted up with the 6900xt into Windows, loaded drivers and same issue as you on reboot. Put in a 3080 Ti afterwards, same blue screen immediately.

Resetting cmos made the 3080ti work, loaded drivers unplug the 3080ti and plugged in the 6900XT and loaded drivers and it works presently. I used Windows 11 to delete Nvidia drivers and stuff without issue and not DDU After the 6900XT worked.
 

Rev. Night

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methinks i have an issue with windows and this hdd. I do the troubleshooting steps here:

https://answers.microsoft.com/en-us...onnected/3b3f832b-aa34-4a93-865a-2976a4dff3c0

  • Create a bootable media and boot the PC using the media.
  • On the Install Windows screen, select Next > Repair your computer.
  • On the System Recovery Options screen, select Troubleshoot> Advanced options > Command Prompt.
  • Now type in the commands and hit enter: BOOTREC /FIXMBR
    BOOTREC /FIXBOOT
    BOOTREC /scanos
    BOOTREC /rebuildbcd
  • Restart the PC.

I don't have a bootable media, but I can get to the troubleshooting section. From there, the Refresh/Diaganose PC/safe mode don't work. I can do command line though. This is the response I get is attached. All the commands run succesfully, but when it scans for an OS, it can't find any.

At this point, I think me reinstalling Windows is the only way to solve this. The problem is that I can't find my windows product key. No i'm serious, this isn't a bootleg. I searched my gmail and hotmail for window product key but to no avail. I logged into the MS store, go to purchase history, don't see any.

Hmmm
 

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Rev. Night

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How do I get that onto a non-working computer? I normally would have to take the ssd and hook it up to a working computer, but it's on an nvme drive. My working mobo can only fit one and it already has one.

Speaking of m2, like I said, for my htpc, the windows drive is on an m2 port. Is bios having an issue recognizing it? Look at the attached pictures:
  • The SATA Information clearly shows the secondary drives (ssd, hdd). Yet look at the M.2 line, it says N/A. It's like BIOS no longer sees the M2 drive as existing. However...
  • Looking at Boot Priority, you clearly see the Windows Boot Manager and the NVME drive.
So why is Bios showing the m2 drive during Boot Priority, but it's not there during SATA information.
 

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pendragon1

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methinks i have an issue with windows and this hdd. I do the troubleshooting steps here:

https://answers.microsoft.com/en-us...onnected/3b3f832b-aa34-4a93-865a-2976a4dff3c0



I don't have a bootable media, but I can get to the troubleshooting section. From there, the Refresh/Diaganose PC/safe mode don't work. I can do command line though. This is the response I get is attached. All the commands run succesfully, but when it scans for an OS, it can't find any.

At this point, I think me reinstalling Windows is the only way to solve this. The problem is that I can't find my windows product key. No i'm serious, this isn't a bootleg. I searched my gmail and hotmail for window product key but to no avail. I logged into the MS store, go to purchase history, don't see any.

Hmmm
did you reattach the other drives? if not, the windows info may be on one of those, as it like to do that for no reason...
 

pendragon1

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use youre working system to make a hirens usb and see if one of the partition utils can fix it.
 

Denpepe

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At this point, I think me reinstalling Windows is the only way to solve this. The problem is that I can't find my windows product key. No i'm serious, this isn't a bootleg. I searched my gmail and hotmail for window product key but to no avail. I logged into the MS store, go to purchase history, don't see any.

If most of the hardware is unchanged from the initial installation and you have the install tied to a MS account you can reinstall windows without product key and it should activate automatically once you boot for the first time
 

LigTasm

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How do I get that onto a non-working computer? I normally would have to take the ssd and hook it up to a working computer, but it's on an nvme drive. My working mobo can only fit one and it already has one.

Speaking of m2, like I said, for my htpc, the windows drive is on an m2 port. Is bios having an issue recognizing it? Look at the attached pictures:
  • The SATA Information clearly shows the secondary drives (ssd, hdd). Yet look at the M.2 line, it says N/A. It's like BIOS no longer sees the M2 drive as existing. However...
  • Looking at Boot Priority, you clearly see the Windows Boot Manager and the NVME drive.
So why is Bios showing the m2 drive during Boot Priority, but it's not there during SATA information.

If you're on Windows 8, 10 , or 11 you don't need to remember shit. Just press the "I don't have a key" button and it will do it itself when you connect to the internet. You only have to type the key once unless you replace a TON of hardware at one time. Only thing I like about these OS compared to the older ones, you can have it up and running off of a USB stick in less than 5 minutes.
 

horrorshow

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If you're on Windows 8, 10 , or 11 you don't need to remember shit. Just press the "I don't have a key" button and it will do it itself when you connect to the internet. You only have to type the key once unless you replace a TON of hardware at one time. Only thing I like about these OS compared to the older ones, you can have it up and running off of a USB stick in less than 5 minutes.

Yeah, just skip the key step during the install then activate online afterwards via Windows..

It's worked for me 9/10 times. (Lest you've swapped motherboards, you should be fine)
 

Rev. Night

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Since this DDU, I have only changed the graphics card.

Curious, from the Troubleshooting screen, how do I reinstall windows? The only option I see is 'Reset PC'. According to internet guides, there is a prompt tp save your current files. Heres to not wiping out all my stuff!
 

motqalden

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Since this DDU, I have only changed the graphics card.

Curious, from the Troubleshooting screen, how do I reinstall windows? The only option I see is 'Reset PC'. According to internet guides, there is a prompt tp save your current files. Heres to not wiping out all my stuff!
Keep in mind it basically rolls back to default settings and all your applications will be uninstalled. It gives you a list of changes afterwards so make sure you pay attention to that to give you an idea of what you might want to re-install after.
 

Eshelmen

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Had this happen to me. I believe in my case it was because of an out dated DDU version

Reset bios and then used an up to date version of DDU and all was fine.
 

Rev. Night

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I could have sworn I had both my gaming and htpc tied to the MS store. Even more annoying is that my account clearly has both devices. Yet when I go to my order history, I dont see any orders. Looking through my gmail and hotmail, I dont see anything from the MS store. But it could also be due to the keywords I am using to search.

How can I have 2 legal copies of Windows 10 (which I do) yet no record of me buying it?
 

Dan_D

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It's not 2005 anymore. There isn't any need to run DDU unless you have a problem. Generally you can install over existing drivers or uninstall one vendor's drivers to install another's without issues.
 

LigTasm

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It's not 2005 anymore. There isn't any need to run DDU unless you have a problem. Generally you can install over existing drivers or uninstall one vendor's drivers to install another's without issues.

It may not be 2005 but the last time I tried to GPU swap without DDU I stuck an RX 6600 in a system that I just removed a 6900XT from and that thingy got so messed up I almost had to reinstall windows. Radeon driver started going in this loop where it would uninstall and then reboot to finish the process and then go right back to uninstall. Literally all I did was plug the card in and press the power button and it did that by itself as soon as it had an internet connection.
 

Dan_D

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It may not be 2005 but the last time I tried to GPU swap without DDU I stuck an RX 6600 in a system that I just removed a 6900XT from and that thingy got so messed up I almost had to reinstall windows. Radeon driver started going in this loop where it would uninstall and then reboot to finish the process and then go right back to uninstall. Literally all I did was plug the card in and press the power button and it did that by itself as soon as it had an internet connection.
I've swapped between a 6700XT and a RTX 2080 Super on one of my machines several times without issue. I've also upgraded, swapped, etc. GPU's probably hundreds of times in various systems with no issues. Again, I said DDU was good for when you run into a problem but I don't think its necessary to run DDU religiously the way we did back in the day.
 

Rev. Night

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The reason I did DDU was because I wanted to do a reinstall of the AMD drivers to an earlier version. Simply installing old ones over new ones is never a good idea.
 

Dan_D

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The reason I did DDU was because I wanted to do a reinstall of the AMD drivers to an earlier version. Simply installing old ones over new ones is never a good idea.
I've found that a simple uninstall plus reinstalling whatever you want generally works fine. Although, I don't usually drop back versions often, I have done it successfully with no DDU needed. The modern uninstallers for the GPU drivers and the drivers themselves aren't as bad as they were 15+ years ago. The OSes are also much more resilient than the Windows versions of the period. I'm not saying DDU isn't a good thing to have around as a tool to fix issues but it's no longer a necessary procedure the way it once was.
 

horrorshow

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Since Win10, I only use DDU when rolling back drivers or swapping brands.

I agree that it's no longer needed outside of certain circumstances.

- Course, from the beginning of this thread, I've suggested there's registry fuckery sooooo
 

noko

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The reason I did DDU was because I wanted to do a reinstall of the AMD drivers to an earlier version. Simply installing old ones over new ones is never a good idea.
Was resize bar enabled when you switched the cards? Just a hunch this maybe is causing some issues when DDU wipes out the AMD drivers but Windows still try to use the old hardware (bypassing CPU). In my 2 cases, separate motherboards, ReBar was on.

Building 5800X3D system, had Radeon 5700XT for testing and configuration, put in the 3090, did not use DDU nor removed AMD drivers. Rebar was still on, rig would not even boot into bios. Nothing but fans spinning, no error lights on the motherboard. Reset CMOS, which then I could go into the bios and set ram speeds etc. and it booted right into Windows 11.
 
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