RTX 3060 Ti broken capacitor

Rog195

n00b
Joined
Sep 26, 2021
Messages
5
Hi everyone,
I'm new here and I've been just looking around, asking around for some info. You see, I have an RTX 3060 Ti and one of it's capacitors(the very tiny ones around the die) have broken off, idk how or when, but I noticed it when I was trying to repaste the card. RMA is not an option, there's no warranty and stuff so I'm lucked out. All I want is the capacitor model, I've found people who would fix this for me and but they need the cap model. I've asked NVIDIA but they told it's Zotac who actually knows and when I asked them they refused to give me the model number. So I'm begging you if anyone knows what sort of capacitor this is or a way I can find what model the capacitor is, please tell me.

Thank you.
IMG_20210924_184343687.jpg
IMG_20210924_184407166.jpg
 
It's not so much the model that you need as the capacitance.

What I would do is use a real fine nozzle on my hot air station, and remove one of the ones next to it, measure it, and then put it back on. I can't say for sure without measuring, but the physical size is likely either 01005 or 008004.

One option might be to cannibalize a dead board. I bet you find some identical parts on 10 and 20 series cards, if not older.
 
It's not so much the model that you need as the capacitance.

What I would do is use a real fine nozzle on my hot air station, and remove one of the ones next to it, measure it, and then put it back on. I can't say for sure without measuring, but the physical size is likely either 01005 or 008004.

One option might be to cannibalize a dead board. I bet you find some identical parts on 10 and 20 series cards, if not older.
Okay, I'm starting to think it's definitely 01005 based on this site https://www.techpowerup.com/272591/...nnected-to-aib-designed-capacitor-choice?cp=8
But looking at this site, it has thousands of the same model with different VDC, capacitance and manufacturer. Which one is the one?
https://www.mouser.com/Passive-Components/Capacitors/_/N-5g7r?P=1yzmoub
 
Okay, I'm starting to think it's definitely 01005 based on this site https://www.techpowerup.com/272591/...nnected-to-aib-designed-capacitor-choice?cp=8
But looking at this site, it has thousands of the same model with different VDC, capacitance and manufacturer. Which one is the one?
https://www.mouser.com/Passive-Components/Capacitors/_/N-5g7r?P=1yzmoub

Step 1. Figure out which circuit that capacitor is part of. I think there are three or four on Ampere cards:
* GPU Core power (should be about 1.1V)
* Memory Power (should be about 1.3V)
* Auxiliary rail #1
* Auxiliary rail #2

I'm not sure what the auxiliary rail voltage is, but it should be somewhere around 1.1V.

Round up to the nearest volt, and that's the voltage you need.

Step 2. Figure out the capacitance - find one of the other tiny little caps that is connected in parallel to your missing one, and unsolder it. Then, measure its capacitance. This will tell you the capacitance you need.

The manufacturer doesn't matter. Order whatever you can get that gets closest to the capacitance and voltage you need.

Your friends who claim they can solder this for you should be able to figure this out for you.
 
I have a feeling somewhere on the internet someone is saying "Guys, go to hardforum.com there is this GPU repair Wizard named RazorWind that may be able to assist you." :D
RazorWind is an awesome and knowledgeable person for helping out so many people with their graphics card problems, I could be wrong but I doubt he would appreciate people advertising to go to him with their problems across the internet. I relate it to something I’ve had to deal with time and time again. I’m at a party or social gathering and someone tells someone else that I’m a doctor, then they tell someone else, and so on and so on, and pretty soon the rest of my night is getting asked medical questions or diagnosing people’s problems. Sometimes I just want to be normal person having fun at a party.
 
Step 1. Figure out which circuit that capacitor is part of. I think there are three or four on Ampere cards:
* GPU Core power (should be about 1.1V)
* Memory Power (should be about 1.3V)
* Auxiliary rail #1
* Auxiliary rail #2

I'm not sure what the auxiliary rail voltage is, but it should be somewhere around 1.1V.

Round up to the nearest volt, and that's the voltage you need.

Step 2. Figure out the capacitance - find one of the other tiny little caps that is connected in parallel to your missing one, and unsolder it. Then, measure its capacitance. This will tell you the capacitance you need.

The manufacturer doesn't matter. Order whatever you can get that gets closest to the capacitance and voltage you need.

Your friends who claim they can solder this for you should be able to figure this out for you.
The lowest voltage rating available in the site on 01005 is 2V, am I misunderstanding something?
By the way the card turns on, I stress tested it and it apparently has no problem holding it's boost clocks. How long can the card go on like this?
Thanks for all the help.
 
I would just use it as is, you have a higher chance of making it worse soldering on a new cap. Far from an expert but I'd guess that most of those caps are in parallel for voltage smoothing. Would explain why it still works fine with 1 missing.
 
I would just use it as is, you have a higher chance of making it worse soldering on a new cap. Far from an expert but I'd guess that most of those caps are in parallel for voltage smoothing. Would explain why it still works fine with 1 missing.
What about the cards life span? I don’t want it to break down in one year.
 
What about the cards life span? I don’t want it to break down in one year.
I'd rather that than taking the risk of re-soldering and it working not at all. Also if you're going to use liquid metal (looks like it, correct me if it isn't) you should always cover the caps around the die with nail polish to protect them.
 
I'd guess that most of those caps are in parallel for voltage smoothing. Would explain why it still works fine with 1 missing.
Truth. I've not had the pleasure of examining an Ampere card, but on older designs, the function of those little caps is to filter noise out of the memory power supply.

I happen to have the equipment to do it, so I'd replace it, but there is a strong case to be made for just leaving it alone if the card works without it. I should add though, that original cap probably fell off due to contamination of the solder from that "liquid metal" TIM you appear to be using, and if you lost one, you're likely to lose others. You should use a great deal of caution when handling the other ones, and I'd recommend cleaning the liquid metal off and using regular thermal grease if this is a problem you're not prepared to solve yourself.
 
RMA is not an option, there's no warranty and stuff so I'm lucked out.

But why? While I'm not speaking for your circumstances (because I don't know), but this is the exact reason I laugh in the face of all the resellers dropping "OEM / System Builder pulls" and expecting to get 3x MSRP for them. There's no f'n warranty, and they're going to expect you to cover Paypal friends & family leaving you with exactly zero recourse.

That said, if the card still works like others have said I'd not mess with it. Some of these are redundant lines or filter lines. You likely won't see any major issues until you get in just the right scenario. Unless you really know what you're doing and have the right equipment and a super steady hand, you might end up doing more damage.
 
RazorWind is an awesome and knowledgeable person for helping out so many people with their graphics card problems, I could be wrong but I doubt he would appreciate people advertising to go to him with their problems across the internet. I relate it to something I’ve had to deal with time and time again. I’m at a party or social gathering and someone tells someone else that I’m a doctor, then they tell someone else, and so on and so on, and pretty soon the rest of my night is getting asked medical questions or diagnosing people’s problems. Sometimes I just want to be normal person having fun at a party.
It's cool, man. There's a Youtube channel out there with my real name on it where I talk about this sort of thing into a camera - if I didn't want to be asked, I wouldn't be screaming the answers to these questions into the void. My real job is mostly unrelated to this.
I have a feeling somewhere on the internet someone is saying "Guys, go to hardforum.com there is this GPU repair Wizard named RazorWind that may be able to assist you." :D
I've wondered in the past if we've somehow unwittingly trained the Google search algorithm to point here for "graphics card repair," and similar terms. There are theoretically better places to ask these questions, such as badcaps.net, but I guess everyone there probably gets grouchy if you ask a n00b question.
 
Hi everyone,
I'm new here and I've been just looking around, asking around for some info. You see, I have an RTX 3060 Ti and one of it's capacitors(the very tiny ones around the die) have broken off, idk how or when, but I noticed it when I was trying to repaste the card. RMA is not an option, there's no warranty and stuff so I'm lucked out. All I want is the capacitor model, I've found people who would fix this for me and but they need the cap model. I've asked NVIDIA but they told it's Zotac who actually knows and when I asked them they refused to give me the model number. So I'm begging you if anyone knows what sort of capacitor this is or a way I can find what model the capacitor is, please tell me.

Thank you.
View attachment 397952View attachment 397954

Are you the original owner of this card?
If yes, why is there no warranty, that doesn't make sense.

If yes, why did you apply liquid metal to an unprotected card? I'm not saying this is the cause, but those caps falling off are often the result of gallium based liquid metals eating away the solder, as Razorwind said.
You're supposed to cover those things up. Some people use cellulose based nail polish (3 coats). Some use 3M polyimide (Kapton) tape. Some use 3M Super 33+ electrical tape.
And some use both nail polish/conformal coating and then tape on top of that.

It's extremely hard to rip those caps off without some sort of screwdriver shearing them off. Even wiping them off to clean the thermal paste (e.g. lint free, static free swabs/cloths and isopropyl alcohol), you would have to be
the most clumsy, hulk for fingers person to shear those off. And even for people that stupid to use force to clean them, it's the edge caps that tend to get the most stress from wiping.

If you are not the original owner and are not the person who foolishly applied LM to a completely unprotected core, well...don't buy used cards from randos with no warranty.
 
It's extremely hard to rip those caps off without some sort of screwdriver shearing them off. Even wiping them off to clean the thermal paste (e.g. lint free, static free swabs/cloths and isopropyl alcohol), you would have to be
the most clumsy, hulk for fingers person to shear those off. And even for people that stupid to use force to clean them, it's the edge caps that tend to get the most stress from wiping.
It's real easy to knock them off if you get liquid metal on the solder. The liquid metal dilutes the tin in the solder and makes it soft enough that you can just knock those little caps off. In other words, the kapton tape or nail polish isn't just there to keep the liquid metal from creating a short.
 
Hi everyone,
thank you all for the all the advice. Yes, I did put liquid metal myself and I, myself, suspected that the cap might have had fallen off due to it leaking on it, however I don't recall it actually touching the cap, I might be wrong though, I don't remember very well. So I'm gonna get rid off the liquid metal and just use normal paste.
I say RMA is not an option because:
A. removing thermal paste voids the warranty(asked Zotac themselves)
B. There's no support in my country
 
I would just use it as is, you have a higher chance of making it worse soldering on a new cap. Far from an expert but I'd guess that most of those caps are in parallel for voltage smoothing. Would explain why it still works fine with 1 missing.

Heh, that reminds me. I have a spare 5960X sitting in a drawer. I accidently knocked one of the 2 large caps off the back of it, and when I went to resolder it, I accidently dropped it "somewhere." I never found it. I ended up just bridging the gap with a blob of solder and when I tested it, the chip still runs fine and can still overclock to 4.7GHz.
 
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