Decided to make a new thread as the other one was getting cluttered.
So I decided to do some before and after tests on an EVGA GTX 285 vanilla. Wanted to see if there was a difference in temps between normal settings and overclock settings, then replace the TIM and see what if there was a change. Used Furmark, EVGA Precision, and GPU-z.
Before replacing TIM
Normal settings-
Core: 648 MHz
Shader: 1476 MHz
Memory: 1242 MHz
Tested at Fan Auto, 80%
Furmark 1:
Stability Test
30 Minutes (1800s)
Xtreme Burning Mode
1280*1024, 0xMSAA
Ambient: ~68F
Idle (Auto, 80%): 32C
Auto Fan (got to 57%): 81C
80% Fan: 70C
3dMark Vantage (default): 13307
Started messing around with the clock speeds on the 285. The shader seemed to be the most finicky. Used EVGA precision for clocks and fan and ran Furmark on stability test, increasing the different clocks in incremenets every 15 mins to get a feel for what it could do.
The card would not run past (instant blue screed):
Core: 775MHz
Shader: >1573MHz
Mem: ~1500MHz
Max stable OC:
Core: 745MHz
Shader: 1573MHz
Mem: 1462MHz
Furmark 2:
Stability Test
30 Minutes (1800s)
Xtreme Burning Mode
1280*1024, 0xMSAA
Ambient: ~68F
Idle (Auto, 80%): 33C
Temp: 70-71C
3D Mark Vantage: 14565
Tried leaving the fan on auto to see where it'd go. Wound up getting to about 60% speed (81C), and I figured it got so close to my normal speed, 80%, that there wasn't a point in trying the auto fan speed, so the final oc was at 80% fan speed.
The OC was stable for those two programs but not the games I currently play. Tried Fallout 3 and Left4Dead. Both felt faster/smoother than normal, but only lasted about 15-25 minutes before loop-crashing. The temperatures didn't get past 55-60C for L4D, 50-56C for Fallout 3.
So I got some Arctic Cooling MX-2 and decided to pry open the 285. Except for the screws, there was nothing actually holding the HSF to the card besides the suction from the TIM.
First opened
Cleaned with Q-Tips and 91% Isopropyl Alcohol.
New TIM
Aside from the copper portion, the other white silicon pads left no residue on the HSF. The components (ram, chips, etc) had some residue on them which was cleaned up fairly easily.
I used the dollop method as outlined by the user guide from Arctic Cooling. I used a bit more per area on the RAM and small chips than the core. I sat the HSF down on the card once I had applied TIM to all areas that had it before then pulled it back up to make sure that there was enough TIM to contact both surfaces.
Took about 2 hours from beginning to end.
The results?
Normal settings-
Core: 648 MHz
Shader: 1476 MHz
Memory: 1242 MHz
Tested at Fan Auto, 80%
Furmark 1:
Stability Test
30 Minutes (1800s)
Xtreme Burning Mode
1280*1024, 0xMSAA
Ambient: ~70F
Idle (Auto, 80%): 32C
Auto Fan (got to 57%): 81C
80% Fan: 69-70C
With the fan on auto, I started seeing the temps rise to the same level as pre-TIM replacement numbers and remain there for a few minutes, I went right to 80% Fan and let the test finish out to see if it got any lower than before. No dice.
Tried the max OC I got:
Furmark 2:
Stability Test
30 Minutes (1800s)
Xtreme Burning Mode
1280*1024, 0xMSAA
Ambient: ~68F
Idle (80%): 32C
Temp: 69-71C
So apparently there was no difference, which really surprises me. Those generic thermal pads and TIM looked absolutely caked on there and inefficient, so I figured at least having it a little neater would work better, regardless of TIM.
So some questions:
-The max OC didn't work with games but did with the stress test and Vantage. I'm guessing I couldn't keep it stable unless I do some volt modding? Any reason it'd work fine then crap out after 15-25 mins each time?
-From the pics, did it look like the application look fine?
I'll probably open up the card tomorrow after some game playing tonight, see if it looks alright. If anyone wants pics of the tests (Stability tests, Vantage), lemme know and I'll post em. Just didn't want to clutter this original post up a bunch.
I know this isn't a very robust review/test.I still have to find the max stable OC on those games. Anyway, any questions, comments or critiques are welcome.
So I decided to do some before and after tests on an EVGA GTX 285 vanilla. Wanted to see if there was a difference in temps between normal settings and overclock settings, then replace the TIM and see what if there was a change. Used Furmark, EVGA Precision, and GPU-z.
Before replacing TIM
Normal settings-
Core: 648 MHz
Shader: 1476 MHz
Memory: 1242 MHz
Tested at Fan Auto, 80%
Furmark 1:
Stability Test
30 Minutes (1800s)
Xtreme Burning Mode
1280*1024, 0xMSAA
Ambient: ~68F
Idle (Auto, 80%): 32C
Auto Fan (got to 57%): 81C
80% Fan: 70C
3dMark Vantage (default): 13307
Started messing around with the clock speeds on the 285. The shader seemed to be the most finicky. Used EVGA precision for clocks and fan and ran Furmark on stability test, increasing the different clocks in incremenets every 15 mins to get a feel for what it could do.
The card would not run past (instant blue screed):
Core: 775MHz
Shader: >1573MHz
Mem: ~1500MHz
Max stable OC:
Core: 745MHz
Shader: 1573MHz
Mem: 1462MHz
Furmark 2:
Stability Test
30 Minutes (1800s)
Xtreme Burning Mode
1280*1024, 0xMSAA
Ambient: ~68F
Idle (Auto, 80%): 33C
Temp: 70-71C
3D Mark Vantage: 14565
Tried leaving the fan on auto to see where it'd go. Wound up getting to about 60% speed (81C), and I figured it got so close to my normal speed, 80%, that there wasn't a point in trying the auto fan speed, so the final oc was at 80% fan speed.
The OC was stable for those two programs but not the games I currently play. Tried Fallout 3 and Left4Dead. Both felt faster/smoother than normal, but only lasted about 15-25 minutes before loop-crashing. The temperatures didn't get past 55-60C for L4D, 50-56C for Fallout 3.
So I got some Arctic Cooling MX-2 and decided to pry open the 285. Except for the screws, there was nothing actually holding the HSF to the card besides the suction from the TIM.
First opened
Cleaned with Q-Tips and 91% Isopropyl Alcohol.
New TIM
Aside from the copper portion, the other white silicon pads left no residue on the HSF. The components (ram, chips, etc) had some residue on them which was cleaned up fairly easily.
I used the dollop method as outlined by the user guide from Arctic Cooling. I used a bit more per area on the RAM and small chips than the core. I sat the HSF down on the card once I had applied TIM to all areas that had it before then pulled it back up to make sure that there was enough TIM to contact both surfaces.
Took about 2 hours from beginning to end.
The results?
Normal settings-
Core: 648 MHz
Shader: 1476 MHz
Memory: 1242 MHz
Tested at Fan Auto, 80%
Furmark 1:
Stability Test
30 Minutes (1800s)
Xtreme Burning Mode
1280*1024, 0xMSAA
Ambient: ~70F
Idle (Auto, 80%): 32C
Auto Fan (got to 57%): 81C
80% Fan: 69-70C
With the fan on auto, I started seeing the temps rise to the same level as pre-TIM replacement numbers and remain there for a few minutes, I went right to 80% Fan and let the test finish out to see if it got any lower than before. No dice.
Tried the max OC I got:
Furmark 2:
Stability Test
30 Minutes (1800s)
Xtreme Burning Mode
1280*1024, 0xMSAA
Ambient: ~68F
Idle (80%): 32C
Temp: 69-71C
So apparently there was no difference, which really surprises me. Those generic thermal pads and TIM looked absolutely caked on there and inefficient, so I figured at least having it a little neater would work better, regardless of TIM.
So some questions:
-The max OC didn't work with games but did with the stress test and Vantage. I'm guessing I couldn't keep it stable unless I do some volt modding? Any reason it'd work fine then crap out after 15-25 mins each time?
-From the pics, did it look like the application look fine?
I'll probably open up the card tomorrow after some game playing tonight, see if it looks alright. If anyone wants pics of the tests (Stability tests, Vantage), lemme know and I'll post em. Just didn't want to clutter this original post up a bunch.
I know this isn't a very robust review/test.I still have to find the max stable OC on those games. Anyway, any questions, comments or critiques are welcome.