Removing scratches from clear plastic, sanded it, now it's looks kind of frosted

A

Artluo100

Limp Gawd
Joined
Feb 16, 2005
Messages
451
Sorry I didn't know where to put this because this is a handheld device but I'd thought I can post this here. I just bought a used Sidekick 2 for around $50. Well the Sidekick is really busted. I mean the paint is wearing off. There are dents in the dent from dropping it. Since they don't sell the housing for this phone anywhere I'm deciding to paint it. First of all, I need to sand it but I have a question. Can I sand down the parts where there are dents because there are bits sticking out because when he dropped, it obviously pushed some of the plastic up (not sure how to say it) and then put some bondo on it to fill in the dents or should I put bondo on the sides then sand it down. Also what kind of method can I use so that the parts I bondo and sand down are smooth and it follows the phone's curves and stuff so that it looks exactly like how it came out of the factory.

Here are some pictures :

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sand down the high spots. then fill the low spots with body filler. sand it all smooth and flat. then prime and wet sand it all smooth. once everything is perfect, apply paint.
 
Troll ebay for one that is busted, buy with a good casing, and then swap casings...

For the amount of work that you're going to put into that thing, its probably not worth it.
-PHiZ
 
Actually in the time it takes to locate and receive the other one, you could easily have done this work in a matter of 1 hour. The paint may take a bit more to dry but it's much easier than ebay.
 
thanks. so what kinda of body filler should i buy? what kind of sand paper should i be buying? sorry i'm kind of new with this.
 
I always use bondo although you can use something different. Use 200 grit sand paper and progressively go up in grit until its nice and smooth.
 
Crap I only have 240, 300, 1000 and 1200 grit sandpaper. I need to buy the ones in between right? Also should I use primer on this?
 
240 should do it but you might want a finer paper, primer is a MUST on raw plastec/metal paint will just flake off shortly after.
 
Its going to chip and rub off and look like crap after a week, trust me. its also going to get sticky on your ear if you hold it up and talk on the phone for more than a couple minutes.
 
jc72 said:
Its going to chip and rub off and look like crap after a week, trust me. its also going to get sticky on your ear if you hold it up and talk on the phone for more than a couple minutes.
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depends on the type of paint he uses.
i used a paint for lexan on a case panel and in no way, shape or form is it going to be sticky whether I hold it up to my ear or stand outside in the heat and let my fingers sweat.
 
I'm going to head out to the auto store later today, and just want to make sure what I'm buying. Which grits should I pick for this project? I really want my sidekick to look good, meaning no more dent marks or any kind of cosmetic damage on it anymore. 220, 300, 400, 600, 800, 1000, 1200, 1500, 2000, 2500. I'm going to get myself of can of primer for plastics, a spray paint of matte black, either pearlescent or metallic blue or some kind of mirage color, a clear coat. I my sidekicks to end up looking similar to this :
sk1.jpg


sk2.jpg


sk3.jpg


and this:

http://i29.photobucket.com/albums/c...23/IMG_1783.jpg

http://i29.photobucket.com/albums/c...23/IMG_1782.jpg

http://i29.photobucket.com/albums/c...23/IMG_1779.jpg

http://i29.photobucket.com/albums/c...23/IMG_1778.jpg

http://i29.photobucket.com/albums/c...23/IMG_1777.jpg

http://i29.photobucket.com/albums/c...23/IMG_1781.jpg

Any recommendations on paints, primers, and clear coat?

Also I've read some articles online, that I can sand down the screen's plastic and then put some rubbing compound on it. Which brand of rubbing compound works the best? I have an empty bottle of 3m rubbing compound at home.

http://www.briansmodelcars.com/tutorials/tutorial.asp?TutorialID=14&CurPage=1
 
Alright so I bought a 400 and 800 grit sandpaper. I have 600 at home and I also bought a can of bondo. Should I start with the 240 grit sandpaper first? or is that too rough?
 
Just like what the title says. I'm painting my sidekick 2 flat black, I don't want it to start rubbing and chipping off, so should I clear coat it? I def. do not want a glossy mirror like look. I want the sidekick to look 100% oem.
 
You want a SATIN finish, not MATTE.

MATTE will look terrible, like a messed up paint job.

SATIN is what the Dell computers have.
 
Does the primer matter?

I have a can of primer at home that I can use. I have a can of Duplicolor primer sealer.
 
Definately satin is the finish you want. Kilz is a good brand. It even works on metal.
 
I'm trying to restore the screen of my sidekick 2 back to the original condition. First I started off with a 220 grit, wet sanded it with a 400, then we sanded it with a 800, then a 1000 and a 1500. At the end I used my 3M rubbing compound and worked on it for maybe 10 minutes. I washed everything off and dryed it. The original scratches were gone but now I see fine scratches from the sandpaper. It looks kind of frosted but I can see through it, just kind of blurry. What can I do?
 
Thanks I'll look at a satin black. Do I still need a clear coat? What kind of clear coat should I be looking for? Also I have a can of primer at home, Duplicolor Sealer Primer, should I use this, does the type of primer matter?
 
Who in god's name told you to use 220 or 400? Was the scratch on it that deep?!?!

1.) 1500 or 2000 minimum should be used.
2.) Use a miniature buffer to polish the plastic
3.) Novus plastic polish fine scratch remover.

Heck you could have just used the scratch remover and it would have blended most of the light scratches in. My guess is you won't get it looking perfect again but you can get it halfway decent.

Anyways please show me pics because I'm in shock.
 
Artluo100 said:
I'm trying to restore the screen of my sidekick 2 back to the original condition. First I started off with a 220 grit, wet sanded it with a 400, then we sanded it with a 800, then a 1000 and a 1500. At the end I used my 3M rubbing compound and worked on it for maybe 10 minutes. I washed everything off and dryed it. The original scratches were gone but now I see fine scratches from the sandpaper. It looks kind of frosted but I can see through it, just kind of blurry. What can I do?
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220 grit was probably way to rough. You probably should have started with 800. My guess is you might be looking at craters left by the 220 grit that you didnt get out.

Did you sand one direction then go in another direction with the next finer grit and look to see that all the lines were running the same direction? Are you using a sanding block so presure is applied evenly?

Did you use the 1500 wet? You might have not gone fine enough for the rubbing compound to work too. Maybe try finding some 2000 or better yet 2400 grit sandpaper.
 
LOL Qtip beat me too posting while I was talking on the phone. :D

But ya what Qtip said. :)
 
What'd be best is to use this 3000grit wetsanding pad I have. At least if you sand down correctly to that point you shouldn't have to buff too much. Either way though, leave the scratch removal to the pros :D
 
Qtip42 said:
Either way though, leave the scratch removal to the pros :D
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hehe :D

Well I said the 2400 because most automotive stores will carry it. Not too sure if he be able to find what you have and if he does if it cost him a arm and a leg for maybe a one time use. :p
 
No clear coat, unless you can find a satin finish clear coat.

I wouldn't use primer unless you added/removed plastic from the housing.
 
SarverSystems said:
I wouldn't use primer unless you added/removed plastic from the housing.
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What do you mean? I sanded the plastic down, if that's what you meant.
 
Alright I bondoed everything, so now all the parts are nice and smooth. I'm debating whether or not I should put primer on this.





























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I finished this all with a 220 grit, should I sand it with a 400 (or a 800) or should I leave it?
 
do u need three threads on ur sidekick? anyways i dont think the other members were clear on ur project. you could use the rougher grits on the plastic body of the sidekick but never use it on the screen.
 
Lots of classic car owners are putting matte clearcoat over black primer to create a "stealth" look.
 
Ok here's a lesson with bondo/primer/paint.

You can sand bondo up to 180 and then primer over it. Anything above 180 (like 220) is overkill). The primer you put on will need to be wetsanded using 400 and if you get lazy, 320grit.

Don't paint over bondo. You've done it right thus far. Bondo will just absorb everything and you don't want that.
 
Artluo100 said:
thanks. so what kinda of body filler should i buy? what kind of sand paper should i be buying? sorry i'm kind of new with this.
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Sorry I missed this question, the bondo you are using kinda sucks (a little late for this). What you need for small stuff like this is spot putty (polyester). It's much smoother.
 
Artluo100 said:
Here are some pics (Clickable Thumbnails):

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This pic here probably shows it the best what it actually looks like I imagine. The big bold white scratches are probably from the 220 grit that you never got out. There are lighter scratches too probably from finer grits that you didnt get out too. What I would do is pick a direction that no lines are going in and start with 800 grit and get all those scratches out. Then go to next higher grit in another direction again till all the previous lines are gone. Keep going in different directions so when your done if you see a line in it and need to go back you know what grit to start out with to get it out with. The haze appearance is probably due to you not going fine enough grit. Go to a automotive store and pick up some 2400 grit paper. Also you dont need to use water on it till you get to the last grit if that helps so you can see if you getting the previous grit scratches out. You might want to wait and see what Qtip says. Good luck.
 
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