questions about cutting case door

R

RogueTrip

2[H]4U
Joined
Feb 22, 2003
Messages
2,869
I have had a CoolerMaster Centurion 5 for a few years now. I used to used a 80mm fan I bolted to the door that already had cut-out and grill built in. Now I purchased a Xigmatek HDT-S1283 HSF and it probably comes right out to the door with maybe a 10mm to 15mm spacing, not worth buying a 80x80x15mm in my opinion.

I was thinking about using my 3" air grinder to cut out a spacing for 2x 140mm fans and mount them externally. I usually use the air grinder for automotive and worried about it kicking up and grinding into the black powdercoat paint. I was thinking masking the whole door off, but any tips about kick back? I was thinking of maybe using a air controller and maybe using 75psi, I think max rated for 90psi although I still let it use up 120psi off the compressor (only recently bought the controller and don't even know if it works).

TIA.
 
I wish I could speak intelligently about air tools... but this job could easily be accomplished with a 4 1/2" hole saw and a drill. They are a bit pricey, but if you don't have access to one then I would tape up the panel, draw your rectangular cutout from a template and use a jig saw with a metal cutting blade (24 tooth per inch) to make your cut. I know it's not exactly the answer you were looking for... but it seems to me that there is a better and more accurate tool out there than using an air grinder?
 
yea i wouldnt recommend cutting the hole with any grinder. you're better off using a jigsaw with a plastic blade, or the hole-saw and drill method. jigsaws are esy to come by if you dont have one.
 
I found out my brother actually has a Orbital Jigsaw he will lend me. Whats this about a plastic blade? didn't see anything over at harbor freight's site about this. If this jigsaw is variable speed then what is the optimal speed for thinner case metal?

Thanks for the help guys!
 
i used a blade that is supposedly better for cutting plastic. im guessing it doesnt burn or melt it as much as regular blade, and probly gives you a nicer cut. myself when i did my window i got the acryllic precut and just cut the metal door. use high speed for cutting the thinner metal,(obviously use a metal cutting blade for cutting metal) if you slow it down too much it will bind.
 
use slow speed and dont force feed the piece. you can quickly build up heat and melt the plastic.
 
slow speed with the right blade for plastic, high speed with the right blade for metal.
 
Rogue71 said:
slow speed with the right blade for plastic, high speed with the right blade for metal.
Click to expand...

idk what kind of metal the centurion is, but i think you generally want slow with steel and faster with aluminum since aluminum is so much softer.
 
no offense at all, but I would 2nd the fast speed in metal.

in my experience with slower speed the chance of a tooth catching and bending the work increases

high speed seems to cut more smoothly and controllably.
 
jojo69 said:
no offense at all, but I would 2nd the fast speed in metal.

in my experience with slower speed the chance of a tooth catching and bending the work increases

high speed seems to cut more smoothly and controllably.
Click to expand...

if youre catching a tooth then youre going too slow. steel should be cut slower than aluminum though.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top