Question about Capacitors.

Diablo2K

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My old monitor starting acting funny. Took it apart and seen one of the Caps was bulging and had some electrolite on it. So i ordered a new cap from digikey. All the specs as far as I could tell was the same including the physical size deminsions. But when I actually recieved the Cap it was not even close to the same size, its skinnier and taller but the lead spacing was the same.

Both are labeled as 2200mf 10v.
Are these compatible?

The old one is a capxon and the new one is nichicon.
 
+1. As long as the capacitcance is the same and cap itself isn't too tall to put the boarding back together.
 
+1. As long as the capacitcance is the same and cap itself isn't too tall to put the boarding back together.

Just figured out the cap is to tall. Drilled a hole in the EM shield and attached the TV stand w/o the back plastic.

I E-Mailed digikey to see if they will send out the correct one. Seems when I added the Cap to the Cart it changed the part # for some reason. 493-1752-ND is the part # of what I got but I needed 493-1751-ND.

As long as this will work ok, I will drill a hole in the plastic back so I can at least get it all together.

I am not happy with my new monitor and would like to send it back and get something else, but I cant go without anything.

[EDIT] Well swapped the Cap out and everything is working great.Still gonna try and get the correct Cap so I dont have to drill any holes in the back panel, besides if I do that then I wont be able to use a dual monitor stand. so I am going 5to fix it right as soon as I can.

Thanks for the quick responses.
It seems both mouser and Digikey is out of stock on this part, if anyone has one lying around I can paypal you a few bucks for it.
 
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I should have something comparable, I have a ton of caps at home.
What are the case dimensions?
 
A word of advice--if one of the caps was bulging, it's likely that the others are not far behind. CapXcon are notorious for poor capacitors in LCD monitors. I fix monitors as a side business, and I've replaced an awful lot of them. You may want to go ahead and replace all the larger caps on the board.
 
I should have something comparable, I have a ton of caps at home.
What are the case dimensions?
Here is the page w/ the correct Cap along with its demensions.
http://search.digikey.com/scripts/D...k=hp_go_button&KeyWords=493-1751-ND&x=25&y=24

A word of advice--if one of the caps was bulging, it's likely that the others are not far behind. CapXcon are notorious for poor capacitors in LCD monitors. I fix monitors as a side business, and I've replaced an awful lot of them. You may want to go ahead and replace all the larger caps on the board.

I have actually thought about that. This is my second monitor w/ bad caps. I wasn't able to fix the first because my cat used it as a chew toy while it was disasembled and chewed some of the ribbon cables on the inside.

I am not by anymeans an electrician. Desoldering this Cap was not easy, I used a copper desoldering braid and that didn't work to well, so I will probably replace them only as needed. I am however considering getting a better Soldering Iron as well as a desoldering iron and also getting some electronic kits so I can practice soldering as I would like to take some classes on electronics in the future.
 
my cat used it as a chew toy while it was disasembled and chewed some of the ribbon cables on the inside.

I'm parsing this against CRTs and seeing a cat going 'poof'.
 
I'm parsing this against CRTs and seeing a cat going 'poof'.

I use to have a Sony G400, I say use to because my cat couched up a hairball while sitting on the monitor and poof, smoke and crackle moise and them me yelling at the cat!

But, yeah, a cat getting into the insides of a CRt would not be a good thing. Theres some mighty big caps in there to fry a cat.
 
You might want something with a little more power, so it doesn't take as long to get the solder flowing. Otherwise, that iron should do fine.....
 
If they're out of that part, just use a suitable substitute instead. E.g.

http://search.digikey.com/scripts/DkSearch/dksus.dll?Detail&name=P12357-ND or
http://search.digikey.com/scripts/DkSearch/dksus.dll?Detail&name=P10230-ND (closest match) or
http://search.digikey.com/scripts/DkSearch/dksus.dll?Detail&name=493-1502-ND

are all good subs for that Nichicon.

IMO desoldering irons are useless, especially for components like radial caps, which are quite easy to remove. I would buy yourself some desoldering braid and use a standard soldering iron to remove. The easiest way is to heat one joint while pushing on that side of the cap. The other lead will bend and the one you're heating will pull out some. Switch to the other side and repeat until you have removed the cap. Then use the desoldering braid to clean up the holes.
 
If they're out of that part, just use a suitable substitute instead. E.g.

http://search.digikey.com/scripts/DkSearch/dksus.dll?Detail&name=P12357-ND or
http://search.digikey.com/scripts/DkSearch/dksus.dll?Detail&name=P10230-ND (closest match) or
http://search.digikey.com/scripts/DkSearch/dksus.dll?Detail&name=493-1502-ND

are all good subs for that Nichicon.

IMO desoldering irons are useless, especially for components like radial caps, which are quite easy to remove. I would buy yourself some desoldering braid and use a standard soldering iron to remove. The easiest way is to heat one joint while pushing on that side of the cap. The other lead will bend and the one you're heating will pull out some. Switch to the other side and repeat until you have removed the cap. Then use the desoldering braid to clean up the holes.
Thanks for the links.

That is basically how I removed the first cap. Problem is it can't be good on the pad and I don't want to push my luck. I really like this monitor and don't want to have to replace it so I want to do this correctly. Besides I am wanting to get into electronics and learning to do this correctly will help me in the future.
 
Nvm, I found a "Repair Kit" on E-bay. $13 but it also comes with the other caps.

Quick quistion, would the cheap desoldering iron from Radio Shack be good for desoldering the caps. http://www.radioshack.com/product/index.jsp?productId=2062731 I cant justify buying anything better as I could just get a new monitor for what they cost.
I fix LCD monitors as somewhat of a "profitable hobby", and use that exact desoldering iron. For me, it works fantastically. I tried using desoldering braid for a long time, and finally got sick of it. The RS desoldering iron makes it a gazillion times easier, especially with lead-free solder.
 
I use a piston solder sucker. I suppose anything that you can use effectively and get the solder out of the hole is fine. I have used the radio shack tool as well. It works fine. You wont damage the pads by working the cap out if your heat is set properly. It's pretty hard stuff to melt sometimes. IMO temperature control is a must. It can be done with 35w pencil iron if you are careful and have some experience.
 
i found that a baby booger remover works well for me to remove solder. Im too impatient with braid and it never seems to work.
 
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