QNIX QX2710 LED Evolution ll 27" 1440p $289 on Ebay Free Shipping

Justintoxicated

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Dunno if this image from amazon helps or not.

lol nope I could guestimate enough I saw a picture of it using this stand though. Maybe I should just get the monoprice stand since that one will fit for sure, although I don't like that the vertical adjustment requires an allen wrench....
 
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okashira

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I noticed there was signficant brightness uniformity issues when overclocked.. so I did an investigation. It only affects colors/greys, and it gets worse as the overclock is higher. There is a sweet spot between overclock and uniformity issues

I took a picture of a grey screen with a camera at 60Hz, 62Hz, 64Hz ... 126Hz, 128Hz, 130Hz. You can compare them here:
https://www.dropbox.com/sh/ipxb5wq9dx40nfx/UvxYS0Rb1C
All pics were taken at the same locked exposure and fixed manual focus, but the camera is pretty old so no guarantee of perfect consistency.

Feel free to download and scroll through them

Another observation: Image retention occurs in the darker areas, not in the lighter areas.

Based on my results, I'll stick with 90-96Hz. I suspect other PLS overclock monitors will be similar.


Edit: this is my glossy x-star
 

Justintoxicated

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I noticed there was signficant brightness uniformity issues when overclocked.. so I did an investigation. It only affects colors/greys, and it gets worse as the overclock is higher. There is a sweet spot between overclock and uniformity issues

I took a picture of a grey screen with a camera at 60Hz, 62Hz, 64Hz ... 126Hz, 128Hz, 130Hz. You can compare them here:
https://www.dropbox.com/sh/ipxb5wq9dx40nfx/UvxYS0Rb1C
All pics were taken at the same locked exposure and fixed manual focus, but the camera is pretty old so no guarantee of perfect consistency.

Feel free to download and scroll through them

Another observation: Image retention occurs in the darker areas, not in the lighter areas.

Based on my results, I'll stick with 90-96Hz. I suspect other PLS overclock monitors will be similar.


Edit: this is my glossy x-star

Nice, I don't feel so bad that I am stuck at 96 then :) Mine can't even get close to 120.
 

SBSuperfly

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I just got the monitor that I bought from Storewithstory last week. My offer of $350 was accepted for one of their "ultimate perfect pixel" monitors (guaranteed 0 dead pixels). To me, it was worth the little bit extra to make sure I didn't have any bad pixels because they really bother me. A big bonus is the fact that my monitor doesn't have any noticeable bleed. It even came with the NA power cable instead of the crappy converter that some sellers send. I'd definitely recommend Storewithstory to anyone looking to buy one of the Korean monitors.

I bought a matte qnix qx2710 from storewithstory as well through ebay. I was able to win an auction of an "ultimate pixel perfect" model for $335. I haven't been able to find any defective pixels or backlight bleed. I 2nd your recommendation.
 

beowulf7

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My QNIX QX2710 LED Evolution ll DPmulti TRUE10 (Jesus, what a mouthful) was delivered yesterday. Great monitor, flawless. Not using it for gaming so I haven't tried beyond 60Hz nor have I measured input lag, but it's beautiful and for coding, web browsing and photo editing it's a big step up from my Dell U2211.
Congrats. But I thought multi-input monitors couldn't be OC'ed, yet that link you mentioned said it's OC'able to 120 Hz.
 

beowulf7

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lol nope I could guestimate enough I saw a picture of it using this stand though. Maybe I should just get the monoprice stand since that one will fit for sure, although I don't like that the vertical adjustment requires an allen wrench....
You and I have the same speaker (Logitech Z-5500). I measured the center speaker to be 5.25" tall. But in theory, the bottom of the monitor can be a little lower since the speaker (at least for me) won't be flush against the monitor, so the downward angle at the bottom of the monitor gives it a little more space.
 

tenub

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Just got my QX2710 in. So far I'm neither happy nor sad. Although it's certainly large, the blacks are nothing compared to my calibrated TN Acer G235H. Maybe it's the matte coating, but blacks in fact look entirely grey. I may be able to fix this via calibration... hopefully. Also, there are no dead pixels but one stuck green pixel. Running jscreenfix now; will try massaging if it doesn't fix it.
 

okashira

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Just got my QX2710 in. So far I'm neither happy nor sad. Although it's certainly large, the blacks are nothing compared to my calibrated TN Acer G235H. Maybe it's the matte coating, but blacks in fact look entirely grey. I may be able to fix this via calibration... hopefully. Also, there are no dead pixels but one stuck green pixel. Running jscreenfix now; will try massaging if it doesn't fix it.

Evo II? Glow?
 

Justintoxicated

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Just got my QX2710 in. So far I'm neither happy nor sad. Although it's certainly large, the blacks are nothing compared to my calibrated TN Acer G235H. Maybe it's the matte coating, but blacks in fact look entirely grey. I may be able to fix this via calibration... hopefully. Also, there are no dead pixels but one stuck green pixel. Running jscreenfix now; will try massaging if it doesn't fix it.

PLS isn't known for the best black levels. Colors, color shift, viewing angle should blow away the TN panel though.
 

Odellus

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Just got my QX2710 in. So far I'm neither happy nor sad. Although it's certainly large, the blacks are nothing compared to my calibrated TN Acer G235H. Maybe it's the matte coating, but blacks in fact look entirely grey. I may be able to fix this via calibration... hopefully. Also, there are no dead pixels but one stuck green pixel. Running jscreenfix now; will try massaging if it doesn't fix it.

something's wrong with your monitor if your blacks look gray. my blacks only looked gray when i still had the tempered glass attached. when operating at an optimal brightness level, the contrast ratio of the qnix is very good for an ips based screen; ncx's particular matte qnix measured 1103:1, which is significantly better than other comparable models. black levels can vary greatly from monitor to monitor due to backlight and panel inconsistencies, but blacks will never look gray.
 
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tenub

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This is this QX2710 at 96Hz with a third party ICC profile (made for QX2710 @ 96Hz and 17 clicks above lowest brightness) next to one of my two self-calibrated old Acer G235H. Looks pretty greyish to me.
 

Odellus

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backlight bleed... i've never heard anyone refer to that as blacks being gray.
 

tenub

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backlight bleed... i've never heard anyone refer to that as blacks being gray.

I was always under the assumption that BLB was obvious and brighter around the edges; however, this screen is pretty uniform across, so I just called it grey. Will probably end up trying to return this for a refund as I look at my phone picture comparison more and more.
 
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NCX

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That gateway stand on Amazon's site says it can accommodate 24" LCDs, but you've tested it with the Korean 27" LCDs. :confused:

Not sure if serious. Enjoying my Gateway stand which my Qnix is attached to right now, only need to worry about the maximum weight.

This is this QX2710 at 96Hz with a third party ICC profile (made for QX2710 @ 96Hz and 17 clicks above lowest brightness) next to one of my two self-calibrated old Acer G235H. Looks pretty greyish to me.

A decent back-light picture for once, ty, however since we don't know how bright your Acer is (in cdm/2), it's hard to compare them.

Before & after (fixed the light bleeding) pictures of my Qnix's
. Need to stand at least 5ft back and take the picture head on to avoid capturing glow.
 
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tenub

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Comparing mine to yours I do notice some brighter portions around the edges which I would label backlight bleed, but the entire panel's black level just seems to be significantly less dark than my shitty TN (which I was trying to improve upon in the first place by ordering this QX2710). As for taking it apart I've read enough horror stories to dissuade me from trying it myself.

Edit: here's a better comparison to my shitty G235H (this time at 60Hz):
http://i.imgur.com/8Dbu1k3.jpg
http://i.imgur.com/Mb15gOA.jpg

Edit 2: seller says my monitor looks "perfect" after sending him these photos:
Black color label is different from the monitor.
It is not back light bleeding.
As I see the photo, your monitor is perfect.

I think you ACER monitor use TN panel, that is not bright panel.
Qnix monitor panel is Samsung PLS panel.
Panel type is different.
Then, black color label is also different.

Your monitor is quite normal.
 
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Justintoxicated

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wow NCX, yours had terrible bleed. I took mine apart today to install the Gateway 24" stand. My speaker does indeed fit under it fine (maybe I'll even take a picture tomorrow). The monitor cannot however fully rotate on this stand. Well I mean it can as long as you leave the top titled back some... The powered USB hub fixed my keyboard disconnecting issue though (Asus Hero and maybe other Z87's can't power it fully) so no regrets since I don't plan on rotating this one anyways.

Now when I was putting the bezel back together I noticed the bottom-center-front of the bezel is a bit bowed outward a bit maybe a mm or two in the center. I can see the metal frame from the panel if I look down into it. Did I do something wrong when I put it back together? I didn't notice whether or not it was like this before and it's not really very noticeable except in that I was snapping the cover back on so I noticed this time. Or maybe it has to do with removing the stock mount?

Oh and the washers that fit the screws for he QNIX are #8's They seem to be required for this mount (one per screw so that they will tighten down)
 
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dwilson041781

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27" Slim Qnix QX2710 Evolution II LED PLS 2560x1440 QHD Monitor

Is this the correct model thats generally gotten to overclock? I dont remember seeing Slim listed in the title before. I just want to make sure this isnt some newer model that doesnt overclock as well or not at all.
 

Bluesun311

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27" Slim Qnix QX2710 Evolution II LED PLS 2560x1440 QHD Monitor

Is this the correct model thats generally gotten to overclock? I dont remember seeing Slim listed in the title before. I just want to make sure this isnt some newer model that doesnt overclock as well or not at all.

Sometimes they do add that word Slim. That is the correct model. Don't get the DPort Multi or SE models.
 

Kluden

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It appears from various previous posts, "SE" stands for "S**t Edition"...due to the panels having multiple pixel issues....many have stated, see "SE", stay away.
 

texuspete00

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I think I'm going to stick with my ZR30w. It was a recent upgrade, and my first ips or pls monitor. I had seen the suggestions for the 27", and went ahead with the Zr30w anyway. Then of course having gone against suggestion, and being new to the glow, it was irritating me. I bought the xstar matte, but between either the glow and some BLB, and missing size, it was definitely a downgrade I wanted to try and fix. Well, I broke it. Urgh. Really wish the monitor space wasn't so "pick your desired flaw." I guess the only thing I'll miss from the xstar was the OC to 96Hz.

I think I broke the xstar in the final phase of assembly. It would have been nice to have some more experience actually using it, to experience it's pros some more. When I put the metal frame back on there was still some significant gap on the bottom left (it's main trouble spot). So I pushed on the frame with it on top of the panel. I ended up with vertical lines in the aread and just general flashing colors. My mistake. I didn't have that much time to get used to the 96Hz (it wouldn't do 120 without artifacts). Oh well, going back to the 30", I really would have missed the size. Either way what I bought the xstar for was a no go. Blacks were "polluted" for lack of a better term. Whether glow or BLB, it doesnt really matter.
 
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Justintoxicated

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I think I'm going to stick with my ZR30w. It was a recent upgrade, and my first ips or pls monitor. I had seen the suggestions for the 27", and went ahead with the Zr30w anyway. Then of course having gone against suggestion, and being new to the glow, it was irritating me. I bought the xstar matte, but between either the glow and some BLB, and missing size, it was definitely a downgrade I wanted to try and fix. Well, I broke it. Urgh. Really wish the monitor space wasn't so "pick your desired flaw." I guess the only thing I'll miss from the xstar was the OC to 96Hz.

I think I broke the xstar in the final phase of assembly. It would have been nice to have some more experience actually using it, to experience it's pros some more. When I put the metal frame back on there was still some significant gap on the bottom left (it's main trouble spot). So I pushed on the frame with it on top of the panel. I ended up with vertical lines in the aread and just general flashing colors. My mistake. I didn't have that much time to get used to the 96Hz (it wouldn't do 120 without artifacts). Oh well, going back to the 30", I really would have missed the size. Either way what I bought the xstar for was a no go. Blacks were "polluted" for lack of a better term. Whether glow or BLB, it doesnt really matter.

Most of us are getting this monitor for the 96htz otherwise there are better (although more expensive) options with less QC issues. But that 96 htz is phenomenal in games. Granted I have to turn the graphics down a bit in many games to get 96htz with my single 290x, the smoothness really does make a difference! 120Htz with lightboost would be even better if I had more GPU's but then my monitor would likely suck at everything except for gaming.
 

okashira

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Most of us are getting this monitor for the 96htz otherwise there are better (although more expensive) options with less QC issues. But that 96 htz is phenomenal in games. Granted I have to turn the graphics down a bit in many games to get 96htz with my single 290x, the smoothness really does make a difference! 120Htz with lightboost would be even better if I had more GPU's but then my monitor would likely suck at everything except for gaming.

Not to mention 0 input lag.
I'm surprised the zr30 doesn't have glow?!?!?
 

Sodapopjones

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Most of us are getting this monitor for the 96htz otherwise there are better (although more expensive) options with less QC issues. But that 96 htz is phenomenal in games. Granted I have to turn the graphics down a bit in many games to get 96htz with my single 290x, the smoothness really does make a difference! 120Htz with lightboost would be even better if I had more GPU's but then my monitor would likely suck at everything except for gaming.

Basically, there's not another viable option that's as versatile for the money. As long as people use a linked credit card on paypal, *Discover, does international charges for free* you'll be fine and won't be out of pocket if something major goes wrong with the transaction, the problem is getting that "One" monitor that doesn't suck. ;)
 

drklu

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the problem is getting that "One" monitor that doesn't suck. ;)

I had decent luck going with dream-sellers pixel perfect. The monitor I received had a little blb on the top but besides that no issues. Oc'ed to 96hz no problem as well. Now if my system could push that fps. . .
 

Sodapopjones

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I had decent luck going with dream-sellers pixel perfect. The monitor I received had a little blb on the top but besides that no issues. Oc'ed to 96hz no problem as well. Now if my system could push that fps. . .

Yeah, hes ok to deal with, shady, but better than most of the other sellers.
 

phillyboy

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This is my fun.

I got my second QX2710 after the first one developed vertical lines on half the screen. This time I got an ultimate perfect pixel from excellent castle, and I will admit that there are no dead pixels and damn near no backlight bleed that I can see from this monitor.

Unfortunately the monitor spontaneously shut off on its own after about five minutes. It turns out the DC jack is loose... now I have to pull up on the plug going in so it makes better contact. I took a picture to show this:

13592781774_e75cd391c1.jpg


Anyone had this issue before? I emailed excellent castle to see if they can just send me a new input board since the DVI and power supply are probably on the same one. Anyone just replaced the DC input jack? I am good with soldering so I would be comfortable with doing the work. I'd rather not send this back to S. Korea.
 

beowulf7

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I'm still on the fence of getting one of these Korean Ebay monitors (QNIX or X-Star) due to QC issues, like what just happened to the guy above who posted. :(
 

Justintoxicated

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This is my fun.

I got my second QX2710 after the first one developed vertical lines on half the screen. This time I got an ultimate perfect pixel from excellent castle, and I will admit that there are no dead pixels and damn near no backlight bleed that I can see from this monitor.

Unfortunately the monitor spontaneously shut off on its own after about five minutes. It turns out the DC jack is loose... now I have to pull up on the plug going in so it makes better contact. I took a picture to show this:

13592781774_e75cd391c1.jpg


Anyone had this issue before? I emailed excellent castle to see if they can just send me a new input board since the DVI and power supply are probably on the same one. Anyone just replaced the DC input jack? I am good with soldering so I would be comfortable with doing the work. I'd rather not send this back to S. Korea.

Maybe you could just resolder the loose connection? I think those connectors are usually only 2 prongs power and ground. Or maybe it's the cable that is bad?
 

SilverSliver

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Had my Qnix for a few months now. Have been pretty happy with it but in the past few weeks the glossy glass panel is delaminating at the top of the screen and getting progressively worse.
 

okashira

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Had my Qnix for a few months now. Have been pretty happy with it but in the past few weeks the glossy glass panel is delaminating at the top of the screen and getting progressively worse.

Don't know why you would want tempered glass to begin with :confused:
 

phillyboy

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Maybe you could just resolder the loose connection? I think those connectors are usually only 2 prongs power and ground. Or maybe it's the cable that is bad?

Yeah, it ended up that there was a thin strip of metal that the prong mates with in the back that got loose. I ended up soldering to fix it but the monitor is now trashed due to the following:

I broke the LED back light power connector when I removed it from the LCD panel (I pulled out the whole connector instead of the small plug, which took an insignificant amount of force to do).

After I had taken the LCD panel apart to attempt a repair of the back light LED connector my cat jumped onto my work bench *onto* the panels and left paw prints all over them. I believe she wrecked the light diffuser as this panel only has edge light LEDs on the bottom.

And to make insult to injury I developed a bloody nose while I was trying to repair everything and got blood all over my pixel perfect LED display. This did not clean off.

So now I have $400 piece of fucking trash sitting in my basement, and since this was my third try with Korean monitors I'm saying a big FUCK THIS to the whole mess of cheap piece of shit A- grade trash and waiting for the 27" 1440p 120 Hz ROG to come out.

At least my Eizo FG2421 didn't sell yet so I still have a nice monitor to use. I just miss the 27" screen size and 1440p resolution.

I'm done. Back to your normal daily routines. If someone wants a DVI controller board I have one for sale.
 

phillyboy

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Sorry for the internet rage. I didn't kill the cat :). Probably should go play quake live though.
 

SilverSliver

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Don't know why you would want tempered glass to begin with :confused:

I did not. This was when they were transitioning and they sold me a tempered glass panel as a glossy panel and basically told me I was free to send it back for 50 bucks.
 

StoleMyOwnCar

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Yeah, it ended up that there was a thin strip of metal that the prong mates with in the back that got loose. I ended up soldering to fix it but the monitor is now trashed due to the following:

I broke the LED back light power connector when I removed it from the LCD panel (I pulled out the whole connector instead of the small plug, which took an insignificant amount of force to do).

After I had taken the LCD panel apart to attempt a repair of the back light LED connector my cat jumped onto my work bench *onto* the panels and left paw prints all over them. I believe she wrecked the light diffuser as this panel only has edge light LEDs on the bottom.

And to make insult to injury I developed a bloody nose while I was trying to repair everything and got blood all over my pixel perfect LED display. This did not clean off.

So now I have $400 piece of fucking trash sitting in my basement, and since this was my third try with Korean monitors I'm saying a big FUCK THIS to the whole mess of cheap piece of shit A- grade trash and waiting for the 27" 1440p 120 Hz ROG to come out.

At least my Eizo FG2421 didn't sell yet so I still have a nice monitor to use. I just miss the 27" screen size and 1440p resolution.

I'm done. Back to your normal daily routines. If someone wants a DVI controller board I have one for sale.


Why would you leave your cat in a room where you're working with sensitive electronics? I mean this thing had a very minor problem and you could have fixed it just fine. I'm sorry for your loss, but most of this was your fault. You sure you can't calm down and try to fix everything up and clean off your blood?
 

okashira

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Yeah, it ended up that there was a thin strip of metal that the prong mates with in the back that got loose. I ended up soldering to fix it but the monitor is now trashed due to the following:

I broke the LED back light power connector when I removed it from the LCD panel (I pulled out the whole connector instead of the small plug, which took an insignificant amount of force to do).

After I had taken the LCD panel apart to attempt a repair of the back light LED connector my cat jumped onto my work bench *onto* the panels and left paw prints all over them. I believe she wrecked the light diffuser as this panel only has edge light LEDs on the bottom.

And to make insult to injury I developed a bloody nose while I was trying to repair everything and got blood all over my pixel perfect LED display. This did not clean off.

So now I have $400 piece of fucking trash sitting in my basement, and since this was my third try with Korean monitors I'm saying a big FUCK THIS to the whole mess of cheap piece of shit A- grade trash and waiting for the 27" 1440p 120 Hz ROG to come out.

At least my Eizo FG2421 didn't sell yet so I still have a nice monitor to use. I just miss the 27" screen size and 1440p resolution.

I'm done. Back to your normal daily routines. If someone wants a DVI controller board I have one for sale.
Holy shit. Terrible story lol. Sorry man.
 
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